What leather cleaner and conditioner to not fade Sakhir Orange interior ?

[1M4]

I heard some of the cleaners/conditioners including Bmw brand make the Sakhir Orange leather fade out.Im not sure if it's that it removes some color or something else from the leather .Or is it poor quality ? Anyone heard of this or recommend something safe for this color of interior ?

[F80Dreamer]

I have used Leather Masters on all sorts of different leather colors and it works like a charm.

[1M4]

Originally Posted by F80Dreamer

I have used Leather Masters on all sorts of different leather colors and it works like a charm.

That is why I wasn't sure.Off topic how do you like the mustang?I love the new look and specs.

[F80Dreamer]

You know what, I have never been a "mustang guy"...but drove one and was impressed. Still can't wait to order my M3 end of this year, but can't beat the value of the Mustang. I got it fully loaded for $38k...crazy!

[1M4]

Originally Posted by F80Dreamer

You know what, I have never been a "mustang guy"...but drove one and was impressed. Still can't wait to order my M3 end of this year, but can't beat the value of the Mustang. I got it fully loaded for $38k...crazy!

What did you think of the 335is?

[F80Dreamer]

Really loved that car...just a bit sharper than the regular 335, and it had the same 7 spd DCT as the M3...transformed the car. Really nice exhaust note as well.

[1M4]

Originally Posted by F80Dreamer

Really loved that car...just a bit sharper than the regular 335, and it had the same 7 spd DCT as the M3...transformed the car. Really nice exhaust note as well.

It was a nice go between 335 and M3 but the programs when it first came out were rough.In their last year of production they were giving them away at 335 coupe deals .Hell of a car for the money as well

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by 1M4

I heard some of the cleaners/conditioners including Bmw brand make the Sakhir Orange leather fade out.Im not sure if it's that it removes some color or something else from the leather .Or is it poor quality ? Anyone heard of this or recommend something safe for this color of interior ?

Distilled water.

Auto leather is seal-coated with a dyed polymer and the texture is fake - in short, the actual leather is coated with colored plastic thus the only thing needed to clean it is a good quality microfiber with distilled water (you don't want to leave residue). You can't "condition" a polymer coating so none of that is necessary. You do want to be careful of the stitching and stitching holes - those are portals to the underlying leather so you should be careful there.

If you rub goop on your auto leather, best case scenario is you're doing nothing, worst case is you're abrating off the polymer, wearing down the stitching, and contaminating the underlying leather around the stitching holes.

[1M4]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

Distilled water.

Auto leather is seal-coated with a dyed polymer and the texture is fake - in short, the actual leather is coated with colored plastic thus the only thing needed to clean it is a good quality microfiber with distilled water (you don't want to leave residue). You can't "condition" a polymer coating so none of that is necessary. You do want to be careful of the stitching and stitching holes - those are portals to the underlying leather so you should be careful there.

If you rub goop on your auto leather, best case scenario is you're doing nothing, worst case is you're abrating off the polymer, wearing down the stitching, and contaminating the underlying leather around the stitching holes.

I had the Dakota before and thought that was easy.

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by 1M4

I had the Dakota before and thought that was easy.

yup, basically a damp rag should take care of 99% of cleaning ... just like your paint, you don't want to grind dust, dirt, and grit into the polymer. This is where most leather damage comes from: people thinking they need to "condition" their leather so they rub goop on weekly and in doing so grind in dirt.

Best way to clean your leather is:

(1.) Use a dry clean high quality microfiber to "de-dust" all the leather surfaces.

(2.) Use a 2nd high quality microfiber that's slightly damp with distilled water to gently wipe down all the surfaces

(3.) For any stains, patiently and precisely apply a bit more elbow grease to only the stain.

Damn near anything will come off with this method and your polymer coating will thank you for not grinding it off with a paste of $50 goop and ass-sand.

[Gatchaman12]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

yup, basically a damp rag should take care of 99% of cleaning ... just like your paint, you don't want to grind dust, dirt, and grit into the polymer. This is where most leather damage comes from: people thinking they need to "condition" their leather so they rub goop on weekly and in doing so grind in dirt.

Best way to clean your leather is:

(1.) Use a dry clean high quality microfiber to "de-dust" all the leather surfaces.

(2.) Use a 2nd high quality microfiber that's slightly damp with distilled water to gently wipe down all the surfaces

(3.) For any stains, patiently and precisely apply a bit more elbow grease to only the stain.

Damn near anything will come off with this method and your polymer coating will thank you for not grinding it off with a paste of $50 goop and ass-sand.

So I take it, you don't recommend leather masters? When you say Distilled Water btw, you mean just regular room temperature correct? Not like hot?

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by Gatchaman12

So I take it, you don't recommend leather masters? When you say Distilled Water btw, you mean just regular room temperature correct? Not like hot?

Something like that isn't needed on an F8x because every F8x is <5 years old has polymer coated leather ... which means that your leather surface is similar to your paint surface and so all the same rules apply.

Some people like to use an extra polymer coating on top of their leather polymer coating like C Quartz for leather or the like. Done right, that certainly doesn't hurt, just like it doesn't hurt your paint, but your paint benefits from the shiny look and ease of maintaining that look whereas your leather really doesn't.

Distilled water can be purchased by the gallon in any grocery or drug store and has been boiled and then the steam condensed - this means it's pure water with no dissolved chlorine, minerals, etc which means it dries without leaving a residue. You can buy it at the bulk water tap of any whole foods. The other option is to use reverse-osmosis water if you have an RO.

The trick just like your paint (2 bucket method), is to first, as gently as possible, remove all dust, dirt, and debris before you start doing any "washing". That's why you use a super fluffy high quality microfiber to lightly remove all that first (ideally washed in detergent with no scents or coloring and NEVER dried with a dryer sheet).

Then use just a barely damp 2nd clean microfiber, avoiding the stitches unless you have to clean them. You don't want moisture getting in the holes and you don't want to weaken the stitching.

If you have stains and the damp microfiber doesn't get 'em, I've used a light solution of dawn. One time that removed baked on deck paint from a passenger seat (although I had to go luke warm in the microwave). The trick is to be very patient and precise: only scrub the stain one section at a time and don't rub any non-stained leather.

The leather's polymer coating is designed to prevent things from adhering to it so all you have to do is loosen the stain and it'll eventually come off.

[Adcampo]

I've read about the new leathers having polymers and being sealed, but this is the first time I've read about only using distilled water. Interesting. I'll try it.

Thoughts on a surface protectant like 303?

[Draper]

Cleaning with water may be advised for some, but definitely not all BMW leathers.

Merino is a fine, full grain leather with no top coat.

Nappa is a full-grain, semi-aniline leather with a light top coat.

Dakota and Nevada are both heavily corrected leathers with urethane top coats, and have more in common with SensaTec than the other leather types. They're still called leather since their base layer is a natural hide.

[hockey21]

ardex

[Adcampo]

Originally Posted by Draper

Cleaning with water may be advised for some, but definitely not all BMW leathers.

Merino is a fine, full grain leather with no top coat.

Nappa is a full-grain, semi-aniline leather with a light top coat.

Dakota and Nevada are both heavily corrected leathers with urethane top coats, and have more in common with SensaTec than the other leather types. They're still called leather since their base layer is a natural hide.

Good to know, mine is Marino. I'll hold off on the water.

I've got Leatherique, Lexol and 303. I'm also thinking of trying the BMW product. I've read it keeps the leather smell. May give Zaino's leather product a try too.

[te37]

Don't let the leather see the sun and don't sit in the seat... That's how to not fade the leather.

In reality I have used swissvax products for all of my leather needs and it does a great job. Keeps my SO interior looking great and did wonders when I owned my 2004 m3 with imola interior.

[Fast4d]

I use a serum/protectant that claims UV protection.

[trey100]

This is interesting guys. I just got my M3 and the steering wheel (like my new 335 before) has almost a dry/matte finish to it. I love it. I know my 335 steering wheel ended up being shiny and slick after 3 years of use and no real leather care. I'm afraid to use any leather conditioner on it as it seems it would quickly turn that nice matte looking leather to shiny stuff quicker than normal use. Is this not the case?

Also - from the above, I still can't tell - does the standard Merino leather in the M3/4 have that top coat or not?

[Draper]

Originally Posted by trey100

This is interesting guys. I just got my M3 and the steering wheel (like my new 335 before) has almost a dry/matte finish to it. I love it. I know my 335 steering wheel ended up being shiny and slick after 3 years of use and no real leather care. I'm afraid to use any leather conditioner on it as it seems it would quickly turn that nice matte looking leather to shiny stuff quicker than normal use. Is this not the case?

Also - from the above, I still can't tell - does the standard Merino leather in the M3/4 have that top coat or not?

No top coat on Merino.

[trey100]

Originally Posted by Draper

No top coat on Merino.

Thx. So how do I keep that steering wheel looking new and dry/matte or is that just not possible? I feel like any conditioner or cleaner will gloss the leather.

[Draper]

Originally Posted by trey100

Thx. So how do I keep that steering wheel looking new and dry/matte or is that just not possible? I feel like any conditioner or cleaner will gloss the leather.

The shine is created over time as the steering wheel absorbs the oils from your hands.

A gentle leather cleaner following by a conditioner should help. I've always been partial to Adam's since their cleaners are fairly mild, and their conditioner is much more matte than shiny. There are probably other good options as well.