About to tackle spark plugs

[greysea]

Hey guys.

Looked through many pages of doing spark plugs and noticed some conflicting things….

Some people say there are one time use bolts that need to be replaced.

Here is a video that also references that and has the part numbers as well (I will probably email my SA and ask to get these parts to buy)

https://youtu.be/ZflxB_exQs4?si=HdKdLmWq1SO379zQ

However some people say you do not have to do that.

I am also looking at getting hopefully the right spark plug socket that is super thin walled and magnetic.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/14m...nsion-cta-7654

Lastly, anything for you recent spark plug changers that I need to be aware of?

Saw that TopJimmy also recommended some like 10mm plastic tubing to tighten the spark plugs by hand but kinda confused if that is necessary because that video and others just have the socket. But I wouldnt mind if its a great tip for success.

You know the tips and tricks. The “I wish I woulda known this/that”

I am excited to tackle this and keep her in great shape. I did the AA EL midpipe recent and ready to continue my journey on doing my own installs.

Ordering from fcp euro due to their warranty.

[b_w.]

You want the thin wall socket with the flexible head from ECS/ Turner/ bimmerworld / FCP etc. It's not a straight shot down so a normal socket will bind.

I reused all the bolts. Will also want some gauges to measure the plug gap. Don't assume it is right out of the box.

Torque wrench to properly tighten it back up. Spark plugs are only about 18nm from memory so easy to over tighten in the aluminum head if you do not have the tool

[greysea]

Originally Posted by b_w.

You want the thin wall socket with the flexible head from ECS/ Turner/ bimmerworld / FCP etc. It's not a straight shot down so a normal socket will bind.

I reused all the bolts. Will also want some gauges to measure the plug gap. Don't assume it is right out of the box.

Torque wrench to properly tighten it back up. Spark plugs are only about 18nm from memory so easy to over tighten in the aluminum head if you do not have the tool

I think the one I linked says “with a built in swivel join extension” so I think it will be a flexible head.

Good call on the guage for proper gap. I do need that.

I do have a digital torque wrench so I can tighten to the specified torque range. Also read conflicting torque on the spark plugs but will do the 18nm unless told otherwise. Something about it not crushing the washer or something…

I also do have all sockets/torx bits so super ready.

Thanks man for the reply

[Blocke]

If you have access to compressed air, blow off tour engine real good before you remove the plugs. I do them one at a time, and use a rag to block the hole so nothing falls inside the head.

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by greysea

Hey guys.

Looked through many pages of doing spark plugs and noticed some conflicting things….

Some people say there are one time use bolts that need to be replaced.

Here is a video that also references that and has the part numbers as well (I will probably email my SA and ask to get these parts to buy)

https://youtu.be/ZflxB_exQs4?si=HdKdLmWq1SO379zQ

However some people say you do not have to do that.

I am also looking at getting hopefully the right spark plug socket that is super thin walled and magnetic.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/14m...nsion-cta-7654

Lastly, anything for you recent spark plug changers that I need to be aware of?

Saw that TopJimmy also recommended some like 10mm plastic tubing to tighten the spark plugs by hand but kinda confused if that is necessary because that video and others just have the socket. But I wouldnt mind if its a great tip for success.

You know the tips and tricks. The “I wish I woulda known this/that”

I am excited to tackle this and keep her in great shape. I did the AA EL midpipe recent and ready to continue my journey on doing my own installs.

Ordering from fcp euro due to their warranty.

I did mine and my top tip would be having a good layout space to allow to place each part you remove on an area on the floor so that it matches like for like as you take them off.


I found it methodical and helped the reverse of the removal process.

Also really important is to have the right thin wall socket removed socket.

I thouggt mine was ok but it didn’t clear the slight bend and I only found out after I’d taken everything off!

Thankfully a friend was working next door and he cut it and rewelded it.

I used all same bolts again. Torqued to spec.

[GuyLedouche]

Torque is 23 +/- 3 nm. Highly recommend you use tubing to start threading the plugs.

[TopJimmy]

The tubing is not necessary but it gives me the perfect feel to know the plug is in the threads right. Using tubing is also more delicate on the plug. When inserting you’re using the ground strap at the bottom (6 o’clock position, finger pointing up) to guard the electrode from scraping the bottom edge of the plug hole. The tubing lets you feel you’re up and in the hole (heh…plug virgins!).

If you skip the tubing and use your plug wrench to insert just keep the ratchet in your back pocket, and use the extension to hand thread the plug. You should feel the plug thread easily. If anything feels sticky you reverse until you feel the first thread click on its edge, then you start threading again. Cross threading is very unlikely if you are gentle.

Other important points:

Check your plug gap yourself. Set them yourself if possible. Check again before inserting. My pick was 0.023”-0.025” for Stock/OTS tunes, 0.021” for a Stage2 E-mix, and if custom tuned ask your tuner.

I torque to 25 newton meters, up from the 23Nm on the boxes. My BMW Master mechanic agreed that 23 didn’t always crush the plug washer good and some plugs could loosen. I’ve seen threads dirty from gas seeping by. 25 puts a nice seal mark on the copper washer but puts no risk on plug threads (we would have seen a too-deep crush on the washer during testing).

Stock Delphi coils are the best and usually last 100K miles easily, even on wicked hot tunes. Never seen a failure due to the tune, an odd one does go bad on rare occasion.

[Kilabyte]

I have this socket, half the price of the FCP one, same thing realy, but I do get the plugs from FCP, free plugs for life

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...f_=as_li_ss_tl

Stuff some microfiber towels in the turbos once you remove the CPs, you don't want to drop anything in there It's one of the reasons I went with silicone upgrades, no need to remove them, just push them out of the way

[greysea]

Just an update…

I ended up tackling the spark plug job today. I had the plastic tube method down. Thanks for that advice. I gapped the plugs to .028 (thats what my old ones were too and some a little bigger than that as well)

Told myself I was going to go slow and make sure not to lose anything…. Well I lost my first plastic screw popping it up and it flew out and hit my hood and went somewhere….

Also broke my clips that go onto the engine cover for the MAF. The ones with the metal inside the plastic clips.

BUT other than that… it went smooth and I made sure to torque to all specs.

Spark plugs torqued to 25nm like TopJimmy said. Little bit more than the standard 23nm torque.

I didn’t unplug my battery in the rear, I just put a rubber glove finger over the positive post.

Also when the spark plugs were removed, they left rust or some particles at the bottom, so I made a little tube suction on the bottom of my portable vacuum cleaner to get in there and suck it clean!

Only battle injury was a sliced finger (have no idea how).

All in all, I am so glad I did this myself and just took her for a drive and did a couple pulls once she was at temp. It feels nicccceee!

Going to post a pic of my plugs for the experts to tell me if they see anything weird or if it was time.

Edit: forgot to shoutout Kilabyte for the amazon spark plug socket. That worked perfectly and way cheaper than what I was going to buy.

[AlmondJayRoM3]

Originally Posted by greysea

Hey guys.


Some people say there are one time use bolts that need to be replaced.

.

Not just some people. The instructions say the two large bolts that go in the center of the aluminum strut brace are one time use torque to yield bolts. Torque spec is 56Nm + 90 degrees.

Part number - 31106854219

[TopJimmy]

All your electrodes, ground straps and insulators look good and clean.
Kudos on the DIY!

(I never replace my strut brace bolts, even though instructions say so. I just re-torque to spec without any extra turns, so I don’t re-stretch the bolts. It’s a minor no-no that I’m plenty fine with.)

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

All your electrodes, ground straps and insulators look good and clean.
Kudos on the DIY!

(I never replace my strut brace bolts, even though instructions say so. I just re-torque to spec without any extra turns, so I don’t re-stretch the bolts. It’s a minor no-no that I’m plenty fine with.)

Honestly I don't even think the dealership replaces those bolts even though BMW states to. If they did, should it be listed on the paper that shows all the parts, etc used?

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3

Not just some people. The instructions say the two large bolts that go in the center of the aluminum strut brace are one time use torque to yield bolts. Torque spec is 56Nm + 90 degrees.

Part number - 31106854219

My torque specs for these are ugga and dugga!

[saint80]

Originally Posted by GuyLedouche

Torque is 23 +/- 3 nm. Highly recommend you use tubing to start threading the plugs.

“Tubing”??? Can you explain a bit more pls?

[greysea]

Originally Posted by saint80

“Tubing”??? Can you explain a bit more pls?

Look at TopJimmy post above where he has tubing that contains his spark plug.

This was one thing I was struggling to understand too. But you basically buy plastic tubing and you cut about 1ft to 18”. You then place each spark plug into the tubing and then you fish it down the hole and you can start threading the spark plug via twisting the plastic tube. Once threaded enough, you just pull the plastic tube off the end of the spark plug and then continue with your actual spark plug socket with torque wrench to torque to spec.

This just made sure you are threaded correctly. An extra safety measure to not cross thread your spark plugs.