SCTS Racing M4 Race Car Build

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by Zoli007

Interested to see the solution for the front brake ducting.

The hose inlet at the rotor is the 'easy' part. We're not sure yet how we are going to get the air into it.

Here's a funny part. When the guy was building the cage and welding the plates on the rear fender wells, the undercoating would catch on fire. So while he's on the inside welding, I'm on the outside with the air hose putting out the fires. That's the burn marks in the rear fender well area seen from the where the tire is. Note the cage mount is rusting on the underside.


First step is to clean the area and then paint over the burned areas with rubberized paint. I used brush on truck bed liner paint.


I also sprayed some Rust-O-Leum primer/paint on the bottom of the cage mounts

[larryn]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

The hose inlet at the rotor is the 'easy' part. We're not sure yet how we are going to get the air into it.

I am going to try NACA ducts on the undertray to start, unless there is a means to route to ducting to the side inlets for the oil coolers. There isn't a lot of room, from what I can see. If I figure something out, I'll let you know.

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by larryn

I am going to try NACA ducts on the undertray to start, unless there is a means to route to ducting to the side inlets for the oil coolers. There isn't a lot of room, from what I can see. If I figure something out, I'll let you know.

We're thinking something along that same line - or a fan that just takes air from the local fender well area.

[Zoli007]

my idea was to use the gaps available from the M performance lip and create some kind of flat shaped duct that gulps the air from the front of the car and routes it through standard round hose to the rotors. sounds a hell of a lot easier than Im sure it is though...

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by Zoli007

my idea was to use the gaps available from the M performance lip and create some kind of flat shaped duct that gulps the air from the front of the car and routes it through standard round hose to the rotors. sounds a hell of a lot easier than Im sure it is though...

That was the first thought, but the problem is how do you get a 3" from that to the rotors?

[scottn2retro]

We also did a little front suspension work. First take out the OEM EDC shocks/struts


What we'll be putting in (thanks to a member on the forum for putting them up for sale) are MCS Double Adjustable Non Remote Reservoir shock/struts.


To set up with the install, we had to remove the big aluminum front strut brace. That's a lot to say, so somebody on this forum suggested the nickname of 'Bat'leth'.

For you Star Trek fans, that's the name of a Klingon weapon that it kind of resembles

[MaynardZed]

Any idea what spring rates you'll be running with the MCS? Doing anything with the sways or other suspension bits? Thanks

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

Any idea what spring rates you'll be running with the MCS? Doing anything with the sways or other suspension bits? Thanks

I was going to start posting pics of those soon. I think we're starting with 800's on the front. Nothing on sway bars yet.

Started working on the CF roof. As seen in previous pictures in the box, it's a beauty. The workmanship, the finish. Even has location markings on it to help drill holes or paste on the luggage rack strip covers. Even has impression that fit the corresponding contours of the front and rear roof bows.

Here, John in drilling the holes for the Luggage Rack screws. Cars with CF roofs from the factory may not have them (for fear of damaging the roof), but we are going to use them to help hold it down in the correct position when we glue it. Just drill out the pre-positioned holes on the underside of the roof.


Using a drill bit that's a little smaller than 8mm and then threading the luggage rack screws in makes them captive


Place the roof on for test fitting/alignment.


Put a bead of construction glue around the edges of the underside


Screw down the luggage rack screws into their receiver (I painted the tops of ours black)


Once in place, clamp along the front and rear roof bows, wipe away excess glue squeezing out underneath and let it set


Place self-adhesive luggage rack strip holders in the channel and let them set


Snap on the luggage rack strips

[scottn2retro]

Here's our Star Trek Bat'Leth. Notice the modified shock tower holes:


Here's a closer view of the machining Ralph did on the holes for shock adjuster clearance

[scottn2retro]

The wiring in the right rear


Passenger side b-pillar wiring and fire bottle install

[qspring]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

The hose inlet at the rotor is the 'easy' part. We're not sure yet how we are going to get the air into it.

Here's a funny part. When the guy was building the cage and welding the plates on the rear fender wells, the undercoating would catch on fire. So while he's on the inside welding, I'm on the outside with the air hose putting out the fires. That's the burn marks in the rear fender well area seen from the where the tire is. Note the cage mount is rusting on the underside.


First step is to clean the area and then paint over the burned areas with rubberized paint. I used brush on truck bed liner paint.


I also sprayed some Rust-O-Leum primer/paint on the bottom of the cage mounts

There's a Aerokit made by revozport that has a front brake cooling duct. Check it out here: http://www.revozport.com/f8x/rzp-brake-cooling-kit.html

That may give you an idea on how to route your duct. Their inlet are between the front lip and the cf diffuser.

[IMG]https://flic.kr/p/HLKdLf[/IMG]

[scottn2retro]

Here you can see why we machined out notches in the 'Bat'Leth'. We now have room for the MCS adjustment knobs and the max camber angle on the TC Kline camber plates.

[x.shell]

The goodness never ends on this thread.

I've already learned a few things on this thread; like what I can do and other things that will open up a can of worms.

[larryn]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

Here you can see why we machined out notches in the 'Bat'Leth'. We now have room for the MCS adjustment knobs and the max camber angle on the TC Kline camber plates.

I am definitely stealing this idea!

Btw, there is no room to put anything in the undertray, as far as a NACA duct goes. Here's my routing that I did on Thursday. I need to do something better with the front, but it resulted in noticeably less pad wear on a 95 degree day at the track. (I've been gobbling up Pagid RS29s)

I used my handi-dandy hole punch, and it worked quite well with the stainless hardware... Btw, I get my heat rated ducting from an aircraft supply place for far less than speed shops charge.

[scottn2retro]

Larry - are you using 2" hose? We're going to try NACA ducts off of the splitter.

Here is the window net bar. The tab bolts up to the cage in the upper right corner where you see a yellow zip tie


The inlet air blocker plate and fire system hose bulkhead connector (inside view)


Under hood view. Notice the 12V cap cover over the jump terminal. When you take away the engine cover, you have that big exposed 12V jump terminal just sitting there.

[larryn]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

Larry - are you using 2" hose? We're going to try NACA ducts off of the splitter.

I'm using 2.5". 3" would rub consistently on lock. This fits, and the pics show full lock.

I'll keep an eye out for the splitter/intake that you're going to use. I'm fabricating a 5"x1" scoop that will be low profile, just in front of, and inboard from the wheel well. I'm unsure how you'll route the hose up beyond the wheel well. When I took it apart, it appeared to be all blocked by coolers in all directions on both sides.

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by larryn

I'm using 2.5". 3" would rub consistently on lock. This fits, and the pics show full lock.

I'll keep an eye out for the splitter/intake that you're going to use. I'm fabricating a 5"x1" scoop that will be low profile, just in front of, and inboard from the wheel well. I'm unsure how you'll route the hose up beyond the wheel well. When I took it apart, it appeared to be all blocked by coolers in all directions on both sides.

Not sure what Ralph has in mind, but here is a mocked up Left side 3" hose adapter JB welded in place on the OEM dust shield until Ralph gets it welded

[scottn2retro]

After deleting the I-drive, here is what the trimmed down center console control panel looks like



Here is the driver's foot area, dead pedal and re-located hood pull handle. I want to get a automatic type brake pedal pad for left foot braking.

[heckyeahbro69]

Any specific reason you still have the airbag module in the car? Racecars don't need that sort of stuff lol

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by heckyeahbro69

Any specific reason you still have the airbag module in the car? Racecars don't need that sort of stuff lol

We never had to keep the airbag module before, but on this car the software is such or there is actually some type of accelerometer in the unit (notice its position in the car) where if you pull the airbag module, you get an ABS system error.

LATE EDIT: That module is actually called the ICM or Integrated Chassis Module and it does have some type of motion sensor in it.

[ExxelDistributions]

cant wait to see this car done. looking good so far

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by ExxelDistributions

cant wait to see this car done. looking good so far

Thanks - something I missed getting a good photo of, but I'll try to get a shot with it under the hood is the Heater Box water bypass.

We took the two pipes that go from the hoses under the hood thru the firewall to the heater box and modified/welded them together in a 180 deg. U turn and plugged it back into the water lines - but I forgot to get a pic of it before it went in and got buried.