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      09-15-2020, 10:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by 4play View Post
Can confirm, I got quotes from several places and GOLFFRR was the cheapest!

That said, cheapest is relative - I ended up deciding to self-insure because BMW charges such high prices. Even with little to no dealer markup, I couldn't fathom paying $5k for a 1 year warranty. I have the ability to work on my car though (both in terms of space and mechanical skill), and I realize not everyone is in the same position.
5k for 1 yr? That was your best quote?
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      09-15-2020, 03:27 PM   #24
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I'm definitely going with GOLFFRR.

Price to extend to 84 months very reasonable for the peace of mind of having official BMW coverage IMO.

I did the same thing when I bought my S65 M3 in 2015 (different dealer).

The GTS is a very complex machine.
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      09-15-2020, 05:01 PM   #25
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Just bought BMW extended warranty, very easy and quick.

Love the peace of mind.
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      09-16-2020, 11:14 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
5k for 1 yr? That was your best quote?
My mistake, it was a little cheaper. For Platinum coverage:

60 mo/75k mi $4350
72 mo/75k mi $5150
84 mo/75k mi $5900

I thought that was a little steep. M4s seem to be fairly reliable overall, so I'm okay with "self-insuring" over the next 18 months.
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      09-16-2020, 01:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
5k for 1 yr? That was your best quote?
My mistake, it was a little cheaper. For Platinum coverage:

60 mo/75k mi $4350
72 mo/75k mi $5150
84 mo/75k mi $5900

I thought that was a little steep. M4s seem to be fairly reliable overall, so I'm okay with "self-insuring" over the next 18 months.
That's slightly more than I paid, I'm planning on keeping the GTS for at least two years, but probably sell or trade before the extended warranty is up.

I got a little spooked because mine only had 5100 miles And water injection is not working. It's still under the original four year warranty thankfully but made me nervous. If I change my mind I can always recoup residual value.
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      09-17-2020, 12:07 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by h_bakken View Post
That's slightly more than I paid, I'm planning on keeping the GTS for at least two years, but probably sell or trade before the extended warranty is up.

I got a little spooked because mine only had 5100 miles And water injection is not working. It's still under the original four year warranty thankfully but made me nervous. If I change my mind I can always recoup residual value.
Yours was likely cheaper due to the difference in miles (34k vs 5k). Other than the OLED tails, gearbox, or engine, I can't really see anything prohibitively expensive on this car that would be covered warranty. Maybe water injection, though mine works just fine.

I don't think I'll hold mine more than 18 months - I have the track bug bad and am already looking at Radicals, Stohr WF-1s, etc. The cost of running this car daily isn't bad, but consumables on track (and track day insurance) are simply ridiculous.
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      09-17-2020, 08:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
The cost of running this car daily isn't bad, but consumables on track (and track day insurance) are simply ridiculous.
Alternative viewpoint: Few up front mods brings cost of consumables into standard F8X range. Camber plates, BBK for CC swap, sturdier tires (or tires & wheels if inclined), it's ready to rip long-term.

Add seat & 6 pt and it's so fun you might want to keep around as a GT alternative to your Radical.

Can't speak to insurance, but a Radical would be less expensive in this department?
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      09-17-2020, 09:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Alternative viewpoint: Few up front mods brings cost of consumables into standard F8X range. Camber plates, BBK for CC swap, sturdier tires (or tires & wheels if inclined), it's ready to rip long-term.

Add seat & 6 pt and it's so fun you might want to keep around as a GT alternative to your Radical.

Can't speak to insurance, but a Radical would be less expensive in this department?
Mine has camber plates and a stud conversion.

The M2 Comp rotor swap isn't that expensive (front rotors are $360/ea and track pads are ~$250).

Second set of wheels (Apex EC-7 when they were on sale a few weeks back) = $1500. Add track tires (Nitto NT-01, Hoosier, etc) and that's another $1500. Now at $4k for brakes and tires.

Track day insurance is around $300 a day - gets cheaper per day the more days you run. Brakes rotor might last an entire 10 day season (big if as the car is so heavy), but tires and pads would need to be swapped at least once.

Good 6 point belts are $700. The chassis mount points are $750 installed on both sides. Pole Position ABE (fiberglass) + mounts are around $1k/side.

1 season consumables cost in GTS
Brake rotors: $720
Tires: $3000
Track pads: $500
Trackday insurance: $3000

Total: $7.2K/year + entry fees + $5600 upfront cost of wheels/belts/seats + additional wear and tear on suspension/diff/etc.

The Radicals are much cheaper to run - brakes and tires are smaller and wear out much more slowly because the car is 1300 pounds (vs the 3500 of the GTS). Needs a new engine or a rebuild every other season, but it's a common motorcycle engine, so a rebuild is a couple grand. No insurance needed, as it's a track toy and not a DD. If you do elect to buy it, it's about half of what the GTS runs, because an older SR3 or WF-1 is only ~$30k. You can beat on it on the track and it will still be worth around $30k, whereas a GTS, maybe not so much. And it will run rings around a GTS.

I guess it's all about what you want out of the car. The GTS is great for an occasional track day, but like a 911 GT3, the consumables are brutal when used as a track rat.

Last edited by 4play; 09-17-2020 at 09:22 AM..
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      09-17-2020, 09:36 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
Mine has camber plates and a stud conversion.

The M2 Comp rotor swap isn't that expensive (front rotors are $360/ea and track pads are ~$250).

Second set of wheels (Apex EC-7 when they were on sale a few weeks back) = $1500. Add track tires (Nitto NT-01, Hoosier, etc) and that's another $1500. Now at $4k for brakes and tires.

Track day insurance is around $300 a day - gets cheaper per day the more days you run. Brakes rotor might last an entire 10 day season (big if as the car is so heavy), but tires and pads would need to be swapped at least once.

Good 6 point belts are $700. The chassis mount points are $750 installed on both sides. Pole Position ABE (fiberglass) + mounts is around $1k.

1 season cost in GTS
Brake rotors: $720
Wheels and tires: $4500
Track pads: $500
Trackday insurance: $3000

Total: $8.7K + entry fees + mods to car + additional wear and tear on suspension/diff/etc

The Radicals are much cheaper to run - brakes and tires are smaller and wear out much more slowly because the car is 1300 pounds (vs the 3500 of the GTS). Needs a new engine or a rebuild every other season, but it's a common motorcycle engine, so a rebuild is a couple grand. No insurance needed, as it's a track toy and not a DD. If you do elect to buy it, it's about half of what the GTS runs, because an older SR3 or WF-1 is only ~$30k. You can beat on it on the track and it will still be worth around $30k, whereas a GTS, maybe not so much. And it will run rings around a GTS.

I guess it's all about what you want out of the car. The GTS is great for an occasional track day, but like a 911 GT3, the consumables are brutal when used as a track rat.
Right, all of this is in line with standard F8X track costs. That was my suggestion.

A few notes --

Wouldn't do the M2 C swap approach for dedicated track. AP Racing or equivalent, so more up front cost but better component and system durability long-term. (And resale potential.)

Can run stock wheels, prefer to aftermarket 19" setup that I tested.

Seat is being overcomplicated. Less expensive aftermarket seat setups are possible. detailed in my track thread and others have as well.

Not really understanding why you'd insure one but not the other. Loss is a loss.

But anyways, no dispute on Radical being a superior track weapon and cheaper running if all goes well. Was saying costs can be reasonable (relatively speaking) if you keep GTS as a GT alternative/occasional track option.

Guy at my local track had a Radical. Brilliant when it would run, and especially when it would run. Otherwise, it was a headache and a 1/2.
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      09-17-2020, 11:23 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Right, all of this is in line with standard F8X track costs. That was my suggestion.

A few notes --

Wouldn't do the M2 C swap approach for dedicated track. AP Racing or equivalent, so more up front cost but better component and system durability long-term. (And resale potential.)

Can run stock wheels, prefer to aftermarket 19" setup that I tested.

Seat is being overcomplicated. Less expensive aftermarket seat setups are possible. detailed in my track thread and others have as well.

Not really understanding why you'd insure one but not the other. Loss is a loss.

But anyways, no dispute on Radical being a superior track weapon and cheaper running if all goes well. Was saying costs can be reasonable (relatively speaking) if you keep GTS as a GT alternative/occasional track option.

Guy at my local track had a Radical. Brilliant when it would run, and especially when it would run. Otherwise, it was a headache and a 1/2.
GTS is my DD, so I would need a track dedicated set of wheels. Can't/don't want to run slicks or semi-slicks on a daily basis.

For seats, it was actually cheaper to go the way I posted when I did the comparison.

The VAC/BK mounts and adaptors + Profi seat are around $1700/side + cost of harness, where the OEM setup is around $1400/side + harness.

My thinking behind insurance (ignoring that the Radical is 50% the cost) is that the GTS is a DD, whereas if I bin the Radical, it sits in my garage and I can repair it bit by bit since it is a track-only toy.

If I were to do only 1-2 track days a year, the GTS is definitely a better (and less complex) option than Radical + trailer + semi-sporty tow vehicle. But somewhere between 2-10 annual track days, the running costs flip based on my analysis.

For now, I'll probably run a basic track setup in addition to my mods (driver's seat + 6 point, Cup 2s or 3Rs on stock wheels) and sell that equipment when I sell the car.
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      09-17-2020, 11:45 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
GTS is my DD, so I would need a track dedicated set of wheels. Can't/don't want to run slicks or semi-slicks on a daily basis.

For seats, it was actually cheaper to go the way I posted when I did the comparison.

The VAC/BK mounts and adaptors + Profi seat are around $1700/side + cost of harness, where the OEM setup is around $1400/side + harness.

My thinking behind insurance (ignoring that the Radical is 50% the cost) is that the GTS is a DD, whereas if I bin the Radical, it sits in my garage and I can repair it bit by bit since it is a track-only toy.

If I were to do only 1-2 track days a year, the GTS is definitely a better (and less complex) option than Radical + trailer + semi-sporty tow vehicle. But somewhere between 2-10 annual track days, the running costs flip based on my analysis.

For now, I'll probably run a basic track setup in addition to my mods (driver's seat + 6 point, Cup 2s or 3Rs on stock wheels) and sell that equipment when I sell the car.
Sorry, I'm still lost on the OEM 6 pt setup. What are the components (what seat are you using?) and how is it cheaper?

With you driving to/from the track in the GTS, I'm not sure overall costs flip after just 2+ track days/year as compared to an older Radical, inevitable repairs and rebuilds, buying a truck, trailer, ramps, straps, incurring all of those associated maintenance and insurance fees (I trailer my GTS), etc. Lot of moving parts there as compared to a few mods, warranty benefits, and known, pretty controllable running costs on a GTS. But hope it all works out. Radical would be a blast to pilot no doubt.
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      09-17-2020, 12:03 PM   #34
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Have met several people who run Radicals for their track toys. The engine and transmission rebuild intervals don't sound appealing, in addition to issues with the pneumatic shifter. When they were running they were indeed quite fast, just seemed like you had to plan on crating the drivetrain in winter for a rebuild.
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      09-17-2020, 12:10 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Sorry, I'm still lost on the OEM 6 pt setup. What are the components (what seat are you using?) and how is it cheaper?

With you driving to/from the track in the GTS, I'm not sure overall costs flip after just 2+ track days/year as compared to an older Radical, inevitable repairs and rebuilds, buying a truck, trailer, ramps, straps, incurring all of those associated maintenance and insurance fees (I trailer my GTS), etc. Lot of moving parts there as compared to a few mods, warranty benefits, and known, pretty controllable running costs on a GTS. But hope it all works out. Radical would be a blast to pilot no doubt.
Seat is Recaro Pole Position ABE (fiberglass) with Recaro mounts. Bonus is you can retain the stock 3-point setup. Cost is $980 for the seat and mounts on DemonTweaks and several other UK sites. Sliders are another $100 if you want adjustability.

There is a kit you can buy from IND that has the eye bolts and OEM mounts for 6 point belts. The OEM mounts are welded to the body. Rather than buying the (expensive) IND kit, you can buy the components separately for around $270/side. I was quoted $100/side to weld them in.

So for seat + OEM mounts/welding + eye bolts, you are looking at $1350 per side. Then, you can spec whatever 6-point you want. The OEM Schroth harnesses are $672/side on Turner Motorsport.

The seat is probably not as centered as your setup, but you retain OEM 3-point use.

Somewhere between 2 and 10 track days, probably closer to 10. I found a Radical with aluminum trailer with ramps and a decent spares package for $40k. Figure $20-$30k for a performance car to tow it (total weight is <2500lbs so I can tow with a fun DD like an older E63). Net cost of entry is the same, lower consumables cost, and a quicker car.

All of this is just a back of the envelope approximation though (and 2-3 whiskies). Maybe the actual cost would be much higher, who knows. But it feels a little silly (and expensive) to try make my $60k+, 3500 lb daily driver into a track rat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Have met several people who run Radicals for their track toys. The engine and transmission rebuild intervals don't sound appealing, in addition to issues with the pneumatic shifter. When they were running they were indeed quite fast, just seemed like you had to plan on crating the drivetrain in winter for a rebuild.
HPDE rebuild is 100 hours. 40 for racing. Figure on an average Jzilla track day you get 2 hours of track time (3 tops). At 10 track days a year, that's 3+ years between engine rebuilds. And it's just a 1340cc Hayabusa engine unless you get fancy and stroke the engine out. Gearbox refresh is generally done at the same time. I've seen quotes of $6k for gearbox + engine refresh, which isn't bad if it's every 3-4 years. If you buy one and only use it for 2 years, you could avoid refresh entirely.

Last edited by 4play; 09-17-2020 at 12:18 PM..
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      09-17-2020, 12:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
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HPDE rebuild is 100 hours. 40 for racing. Figure on an average Jzilla track day you get 2 hours of track time (3 tops). At 10 track days a year, that's 3+ years between engine rebuilds. And it's just a 1340cc Hayabusa engine unless you get fancy and stroke the engine out. Gearbox refresh is generally done at the same time. I've seen quotes of $6k for gearbox + engine refresh, which isn't bad if it's every 3-4 years. If you buy one and only use it for 2 years, you could avoid refresh entirely.
Yeah, it'll really come down to how many events you run and what your goals are. I was easily logging 100 hours/season just for practice, not including races, which really put me off from any short rebuild cycle cars. That being said the F8x isn't a cheap platform to run, and between consumables vs drivetrain rebuilds it might be close.
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      09-17-2020, 12:55 PM   #37
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Hey all thanks a lot for the above, lots of good information.

I am brand new to the GTS, my plan is to driving on the weekends for fun, and would like to do at least one low key track day at circuit of the Americas since it is so close, And I've never been to a track.

Car is going in tomorrow for water injection diagnostic and swap the Super Sport to Cup 2 in anticipation of track day.

I would like to get a racing harness installed but retain three point set up and the stock seat, if this is possible, please feel free to direct me to the appropriate thread or PM me.

Thanks in advance.
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      09-17-2020, 01:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
Seat is Recaro Pole Position ABE (fiberglass) with Recaro mounts. Bonus is you can retain the stock 3-point setup. Cost is $980 for the seat and mounts on DemonTweaks and several other UK sites. Sliders are another $100 if you want adjustability.

There is a kit you can buy from IND that has the eye bolts and OEM mounts for 6 point belts. The OEM mounts are welded to the body. Rather than buying the (expensive) IND kit, you can buy the components separately for around $270/side. I was quoted $100/side to weld them in.

So for seat + OEM mounts/welding + eye bolts, you are looking at $1350 per side. Then, you can spec whatever 6-point you want. The OEM Schroth harnesses are $672/side on Turner Motorsport.

The seat is probably not as centered as your setup, but you retain OEM 3-point use.

Somewhere between 2 and 10 track days, probably closer to 10. I found a Radical with aluminum trailer with ramps and a decent spares package for $40k. Figure $20-$30k for a performance car to tow it (total weight is <2500lbs so I can tow with a fun DD like an older E63). Net cost of entry is the same, lower consumables cost, and a quicker car.

All of this is just a back of the envelope approximation though (and 2-3 whiskies). Maybe the actual cost would be much higher, who knows. But it feels a little silly (and expensive) to try make my $60k+, 3500 lb daily driver into a track rat.
Okay, I'm still not sure if that seat setup will work as envisioned, but no matter, you're headed another direction. If you change course, be wary of any combination of seat parts/components absent photo evidence of their compatibility with each other and F8X mount points.

Couple whiskeys... I like it. Dude, if you tow your budget Radical package with an E63 and it all works out most of the time, you're the man. Good luck.
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      09-17-2020, 01:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_bakken View Post
Hey all thanks a lot for the above, lots of good information.

I am brand new to the GTS, my plan is to driving on the weekends for fun, and would like to do at least one low key track day at circuit of the Americas since it is so close, And I've never been to a track.

Car is going in tomorrow for water injection diagnostic and swap the Super Sport to Cup 2 in anticipation of track day.

I would like to get a racing harness installed but retain three point set up and the stock seat, if this is possible, please feel free to direct me to the appropriate thread or PM me.

Thanks in advance.
First track day ever, you're good to go. Consider lowering the car into track setting, but maybe not if priority is likely to stay street driving. (Along with lowering, damper adjustments as indicated in the manual for optimized track performance.) Unfortunately, no harness options with the stock seat.

If you have a blast and get hooked, then we can point you to some experience-based mods for your new addiction. Have fun.
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      09-29-2020, 07:16 PM   #40
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Just got word BMW is extending my factory warranty to 84 months (GOLFFRR's shop).

There are cheaper third party warranties but I feel good about this.

Had to get exception from BMW as car didn't have oil change for 18 months (but also was not driven!).

Christine was very helpful and saw it through.

Now for that track day.
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      10-03-2020, 12:10 PM   #41
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I got 3yr/54k extended warranty for ~$3900 fyi.
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      10-03-2020, 03:51 PM   #42
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I got 3yr/54k extended warranty for ~$3900 fyi.
I paid a bit more for 3y 75k (BMW)

I could have gotten third party for about what you paid.

I had BMW extended warranty on my E92 and it came in handy.
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      10-03-2020, 04:27 PM   #43
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I paid a bit more for 3y 75k (BMW)

I could have gotten third party for about what you paid.

I had BMW extended warranty on my E92 and it came in handy.
So I asked the finance lady about bmw extended warranty but she said everyone at her dealership gets it through Ally (I think thats the name). She said it covers everything and my car is only eligible because it went through some 50 point inspection at their dealership already. Sounded like a bs story but I’ve got her email in writing so I guess it’s fine. Price was really reasonable so I didn’t quibble. She also said because the car is so low mileage (3k) the warranty is cheaper.
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      10-03-2020, 04:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_bakken View Post
I paid a bit more for 3y 75k (BMW)

I could have gotten third party for about what you paid.

I had BMW extended warranty on my E92 and it came in handy.
So I asked the finance lady about bmw extended warranty but she said everyone at her dealership gets it through Ally (I think thats the name). She said it covers everything and my car is only eligible because it went through some 50 point inspection at their dealership already. Sounded like a bs story but I've got her email in writing so I guess it's fine. Price was really reasonable so I didn't quibble. She also said because the car is so low mileage (3k) the warranty is cheaper.
Yeah I went back-and-forth, the BMW one is definitely more expensive.

I have a bit of OCD tendencies so maybe that's part of it.

I was in a similar situation, the car had just over 5000 miles, BMW almost denied the extension because there was a period of about a year and a half when it did not have an oil change and apparently they wanted one every year even though the car was not being driven. But they made an exception.

They did require me to document a fresh oil change which I had done when I had the car in for the upgraded water injection system valve block and new filter. So I sent that off and everything is good.

I didn't have to have an inspection because the car was still under the original BMW 4 year factory warranty.

I think third-party is probably as good as long as it doesn't have an exclusion for weird things like the water injection system which is the thing I had trouble with. (Read the fine print blah blah bla)

I got similar offers from several BMW dealerships wanting to sell me third-party, because it was difficult to get BMW to extend their own warranty, it seem to me like they (BMW) were trying to deny extension, and wondering if this model was costing them more money in warranty expenses, But there's no way to know.

One nice thing about most extended warranties is that you can always cancel them and recoup the residual value so it's sort of a no brainer in my book especially with a vehicle this complex.
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