Those of You with JRZ RS Twos

[MetalsMan]

Hey There. Couple of questions as to how you installed your setups. I'm running GC Camber plates as well.
Up front, did you put the helper spring on top or underneath the main spring? I've seen it both ways.
My kit came with two black nuts, one washer/spacer type bushing and two bushings that appear meant to take up some slack between the shaft and the bearing of the camber plate. I don't know what these are called, but I assume if you're reading this, you probably know what I mean.

My set up from the underside to the top side is the following:
Washer/Spacer
Bushing
GC Camber plate bearing
Bushing
One Black Nut - No room for two

I'm getting some noise from my setup which I can only attribute to some slop in the system somewhere. Can't figure it out yet.

I wrench tighten the top nut until the shaft starts to turn along with it and then hit it with an impact for a second or less.

Is anyone using the impact more than that?

Appreciate the feedback

[Yessir]

Pics would be helpful in what you are trying to describe. What kind of noise are you hearing? Clunking, vibrations, humming on different road surfaces? There are quite of few threads with individuals experiencing different noises with different causes with different suspension setups. I have RS twos as well and can tell you I get some noises from my suspension as well. Let me point you to this thread
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1637057 if you suspension set up is correct and the noise you are hearing is not from your shocks and springs, this could be another culprit for the sounds you are hearing..good luck.

[MetalsMan]

I'll see about pics. I was getting a good bit of noise back in October. Lots of binding/pooping noises when turning and over small imperfections/bumps. I took everything apart last month, cleaned it all after finding lots of white powdery corrosion on the bushings. Then I applied some waxy lubricant to make sure everything is moving together well and put it all back together. The whole setup was silent....for 3 weeks and then it started the popping noises again and lots of rattling when driving as if the the whole assembly became loose. The popping sounds come when I turn the wheel, so I think when the strut rotates a bit the shaft is getting bound up within the bushings, or the bushings bound up within the camber plate bearing.

I'm thinking when I tighten down the top strut nut, it's only getting so tight and they maybe when the wheel is turned and the suspension geometry changes, there is some slop up top causing the rattling.

[MetalsMan]

attempting to upload pics now

[MetalsMan]

These show it as it sits now. With and without adjustment knob etc

[Justin.AutoTalent]

I know text can come off wrong but just curious why you didn't just go for the JRZ camber plates price is pretty close and the RS2 Sport should come with the Camber plates already.

RS2 Touring do not but camber plates are optional

[MetalsMan]

No problem, this was the setup offered by the group buy a year ago

[aBMWfan]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

No problem, this was the setup offered by the group buy a year ago

By Apex racing right?

[aBMWfan]

Originally Posted by Justin.AutoTalent

I know text can come off wrong but just curious why you didn't just go for the JRZ camber plates price is pretty close and the RS2 Sport should come with the Camber plates already.

RS2 Touring do not but camber plates are optional

Yep that’s what I have. The JRZ plates are only noisy when I’m pulling onto a driveway or angle on a hill

I’m just trying to understand if I need helper springs for the rears. Let me know what you think bud

[MetalsMan]

Does this setup look like everyone else's? I'm thinking of removing the spacer on the bottom side which would allow the strut to protrude higher on the top side to allow both nuts. Also thinking of turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and lowering the car off of the jack before tightening down the driver's side top nut, then repeating the whole setup on the passenger side.

By the way, I have some clunking which I know will be relatively common on sharp bumps with camber plates. The sounds I'm getting aren't those types of clunks. Especially as they were completely gone three weeks ago and came back

[MetalsMan]

Here is a pic of how the bushings and spacers are installed currently. Just pulled them off, everything came out fine, nothing sticking to anything else.

The camber plate bearing is placed between the two bushings.

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by aBMWfan

By Apex racing right?

Yes, The Apex Racing Group buy

[MetalsMan]

Anyone using all of these bushings and spacers?

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

Here is a pic of how the bushings and spacers are installed currently. Just pulled them off, everything came out fine, nothing sticking to anything else.

The camber plate bearing is placed between the two bushings.

Jeez, your bushings and spacers are super corroded. What happened?

Here's my set up. I'm using the JRZ plates. I use two nuts; one as a jam nut. The camber plate or top hat is sandwiched between the two bushings. It seems like you have the right order although I'm not sure how the GC hardware and plates are set up.

[MetalsMan]

Good Question, I live in Louisiana, so humidity I guess. I cleaned them early November of corrosion and then lathered them up with some waxy lubricant. They are not very clean in this photo for sure.

[MetalsMan]

I see you are using that black top spring retainer from JRZ. I don't have that installed as the GC units come with a piece specifically fitted to the hyperco springs I have. That piece holds their rotational bearing set though which is encased in plastic and doesn't seem up to the task of extended use or driving in all weather conditions.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

I see you are using that black top spring retainer from JRZ. I don't have that installed as the GC units come with a piece specifically fitted to the hyperco springs I have. That piece holds their rotational bearing set though which is encased in plastic and doesn't seem up to the task of extended use or driving in all weather conditions.

The Hyperco springs and Eibach ERS springs used on the JRZ RS2 are just generic coilover springs with the same 2.25" inner diameter. The top spring perch should be interchangeable unless your Hyperco spring is a 2.5" ID spring (not likely). Regardless, it's easy to tell if something is loose after you've tightened everything up.

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by x.shell

The Hyperco springs and Eibach ERS springs used on the JRZ RS2 are just generic coilover springs with the same 2.25" inner diameter. The top spring perch should be interchangeable unless your Hyperco spring is a 2.5" ID spring (not likely). Regardless, it's easy to tell if something is loose after you've tightened everything up.

I'll have my TC Kline plates tomorrow and will be using that top hat provided by JRZ on top of the spring. Did you put any bushings or spacer on the underside of that, or just on top between it and the camber plate.

My springs are also the 2-1/4" inside diameter

[MasterP]

That helper on the bottom is super compressed. I typically see zero rate helpers on the top on strut cars. Low rate tenders below the main spring.

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by MasterP

That helper on the bottom is super compressed. I typically see zero rate helpers on the top on strut cars. Low rate tenders below the main spring.

That's what I have been wondering. What's the point of those even being in there.

[MetalsMan]

my lower spring perch is near the top as of the threads as well as the helper spring is compressed completely.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

That's what I have been wondering. What's the point of those even being in there.

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

my lower spring perch is near the top as of the threads as well as the helper spring is compressed completely.

The helper spring you have on your coilovers are not doing anything but adding stack height to your preload. In your case, this may be helpful since your spring appears to be pretty short. Essentially, it's acting like a spacer.

There is one benefit to this though. If you have a wide front wheel with an aggressive offset, then the spring perch may actually sit above the tire (like OEM). This will give you more inboard wheel/tire clearance; something that a lot of F80 coilovers struggle with when going wider than 9.5" on the front wheel. The downside is that you are limited in terms of how much you can raise the car -- might not be a downside to some.

On my set up, I have a 150lb or 200lb tender spring so it actually remains open while static. The tender spring allows me to have a dual spring rate (or progressive-ish spring rate) that benefits me greatly during daily driving. For the main spring, I swap between a 350lb 6" height spring and 550lb 5" height spring. This allows me to keep the spring perch right in the middle which gives me latitude when I want to adjust the height of my car. Check out my super sophisticated measuring tool. JK.