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      04-30-2021, 03:25 PM   #23
MetalsMan
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Next plan is to drive the same rough road with a witness observing, so that they can tell me if they hear it from the outside of the car noticeably as well. Ordering chassis ears also
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      05-01-2021, 05:55 AM   #24
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Does the noise comes only from passenger? Can you switch dampers so see if the problems goes with it?
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      05-01-2021, 03:17 PM   #25
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Great idea... But such a pain in the ass.. Can't imagine a relatively brand new damper being an issue. Wonder if I could drive around the block with the damper simply removed.
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      05-02-2021, 12:35 AM   #26
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Have you checked to see if the rear headlight level is in the correct orientation? If you pulled down the control arm far enough, the headlight level can switch orientations (think an elbow bending in the wrong direction). If this occurred, it will sound like the rear suspension is making a lot of noise. Perhaps check that out since it's an easy check.

It's items #1 and #8 in this diagram.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1819
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      05-02-2021, 09:20 PM   #27
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Yeah, that's on the driver's side though. I guess it's still worth checking. Will do and report back. Thanks!
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      05-02-2021, 10:59 PM   #28
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ok, here's the problem - I had the same issue.

The problem is the clevis mount. I have bilstein clubsport and it uses a clevis mount similar to yours. The problem is that the clevis mount 3 holes are somewhat 'slotted', meaning they allow the bolt to move around. Under shock force, it allows the clevis mount 3 hole plate to move and 'knock' against the inner body. (sounds like a small hammer hitting).

I remember two things:
-increase torque of the bolts a bit higher
-I put a paper gasket between the clevis mount and mating surface to reduce movement
-other option is to cut a custom rubber gasket (thin), the pressure would prevent movement.

Steve
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      05-02-2021, 11:47 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
ok, here's the problem - I had the same issue.

The problem is the clevis mount. I have bilstein clubsport and it uses a clevis mount similar to yours. The problem is that the clevis mount 3 holes are somewhat 'slotted', meaning they allow the bolt to move around. Under shock force, it allows the clevis mount 3 hole plate to move and 'knock' against the inner body. (sounds like a small hammer hitting).

I remember two things:
-increase torque of the bolts a bit higher
-I put a paper gasket between the clevis mount and mating surface to reduce movement
-other option is to cut a custom rubber gasket (thin), the pressure would prevent movement.

Steve
The Clevis mounts used with MCS (supplied by bimmerworld) are not slotted or forgiving in any way. I have the same exact setup, with slightly different spring rates as OP, and do not have any noise.

Can't speak for Bilsteins mounts.
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      05-03-2021, 09:13 AM   #30
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Damn, was hoping Stevehifi was on to something. I didn't recall them having any lee-way for movement but that's where I believe the noise is coming from. Of course could be elsewhere and transmitting through that mount location.
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      05-03-2021, 03:06 PM   #31
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could be that the mount is still so close to the inner body work (tolerances) that it is transmitting some kind of impact noise.

I would try a thin rubber gasket sandwiched between the mount and the mating surface of the body.

Only other thing I can think of is that you have a bad ball joint or bushing one of the 5 links (control arms).
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      05-05-2021, 10:02 AM   #32
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So, doing some research and found this response from an E92 owner - may just be it.

"Had the same problem. The issue is really to do with the tolerance of the lower shock bushing. If the bushing it to tight then the you get loose condition at the lower camber link ball joint at the wheel hub. If the shock bushing it to loose in the camber link then the you cannot tighten the lower shock bolt enough. If there has been a lot fretting on the lower camber link mounting interfaces you need to replace it.

The work around for at least a loose condition for the lower shock mount it to use a friction paste product called Park Tool SAC-2 at the interface between the shock bushing and lower camber link. This will increase the clamp load by 30% for the same torque. You need to make sure none of the friction paste enter the threads.

The friction paste has suspended micro silica partials which is harder than the base metals. It is a micro gap filler by mechanically connecting the two interface with micro undercuts which prevent slip. it is very effective.

The torque for a zinc plated M12 bolt is a nominal 78 ft-lb. If the bolt is being reused then can consider the threads partly dry and increase torque to 83-85 ft-lb. If you lube the thread then the torque max torque is 70 ft-lb. Do not recommend lubing the threads. Do not exceed 90 ft-lb or the bolt will fail in time.

If the shock bushing it to big you either have to replace it, lap it down or use a facing tool to removed a micro amount of materials."
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      05-09-2021, 07:28 PM   #33
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I have the same issue with my MCS One ways as well. If you get the car on jack stands or a lift, grab the shock body and twist it, you will get movement. Due to the shocks being on a spherical ball and not urethane bushing on the lower control mount, is the only thing I can come up with. It's rather annoying but I got used to it. I tried to fab washers to see if it can absorb some of the movement, but it really didn't help. And due to the compliance of the suspension, I cant really complain. I am now have the pirate ship creak coming from the front, i suspect its the camber plates...anyways, if you have a fix, keep me in the loop.
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      05-09-2021, 08:22 PM   #34
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I would double check your sway bar end links. I have heard that those articulating weight jacks make noise, thats partially why I went with 700F and 600R coil 2Way remotes with helpers and mine is quite on the street and here i tiny spring/bind noise in the front when coming into the garage. Its sharp turn at an angle with a bump. I also have the SPL links from and rear for the sways.
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      05-09-2021, 08:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sly1types View Post
I would double check your sway bar end links. I have heard that those articulating weight jacks make noise, thats partially why I went with 700F and 600R coil 2Way remotes with helpers and mine is quite on the street and here i tiny spring/bind noise in the front when coming into the garage. Its sharp turn at an angle with a bump. I also have the SPL links from and rear for the sways.
What length springs are you running?
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      05-10-2021, 02:24 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggrolls76 View Post
I have the same issue with my MCS One ways as well. If you get the car on jack stands or a lift, grab the shock body and twist it, you will get movement. Due to the shocks being on a spherical ball and not urethane bushing on the lower control mount, is the only thing I can come up with. It's rather annoying but I got used to it. I tried to fab washers to see if it can absorb some of the movement, but it really didn't help. And due to the compliance of the suspension, I cant really complain. I am now have the pirate ship creak coming from the front, i suspect its the camber plates...anyways, if you have a fix, keep me in the loop.
Yep, can turn them with my hand a bit. That could be it, but I am not sure why for a period of time, they made no noise at all.
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      05-10-2021, 02:26 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sly1types View Post
I would double check your sway bar end links. I have heard that those articulating weight jacks make noise, thats partially why I went with 700F and 600R coil 2Way remotes with helpers and mine is quite on the street and here i tiny spring/bind noise in the front when coming into the garage. Its sharp turn at an angle with a bump. I also have the SPL links from and rear for the sways.
I emailed a good bit with the guys at ground control and bimmerworld about those articulating jacks, both believed they can't make much noise under load. Maybe unbolt the rear sway bar end links and put the car under current load and reattach? I have never adjusted those
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      05-10-2021, 02:29 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rborane View Post
What length springs are you running?
8" springs in the rear.

Car is been on the lift for about a week, cleaning and swapping track pads back out. Plan to figure this all out this week.

Set of chassis ears is probably the way to go, though so many areas the noise could be coming from within inches from one another.
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      05-11-2021, 09:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rborane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sly1types View Post
I would double check your sway bar end links. I have heard that those articulating weight jacks make noise, thats partially why I went with 700F and 600R coil 2Way remotes with helpers and mine is quite on the street and here i tiny spring/bind noise in the front when coming into the garage. Its sharp turn at an angle with a bump. I also have the SPL links from and rear for the sways.
What length springs are you running?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rborane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sly1types View Post
I would double check your sway bar end links. I have heard that those articulating weight jacks make noise, thats partially why I went with 700F and 600R coil 2Way remotes with helpers and mine is quite on the street and here i tiny spring/bind noise in the front when coming into the garage. Its sharp turn at an angle with a bump. I also have the SPL links from and rear for the sways.
What length springs are you running?

I have 6" springs, but you might be able to do 7" but then it will be really close to the sway bar.
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      05-12-2021, 01:55 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalsMan View Post
Yep, can turn them with my hand a bit. That could be it, but I am not sure why for a period of time, they made no noise at all.
Just had a lengthy conversation with the MCS tech. He wanted me to video the movement of the shock by hand and send it in to them. Also, said the shoulder bolt near the clevis mount has been a problem with the F80's. Retorque or replace and torque to proper spec could solve the sound issue.

I had a relatively quiet after install for about a week, then noticed the sound. I thought it was the end links, so I went thru 3 sets of different end links, and just settling on the SPL rear endlinks. Even swapped out the sway bar with H&R sways front and rear, the sound went away for a day, then came back. Got the Front end links from SPL as well as the Tie Rod Ends...I think its time to just machine my own parts and throw it at the car and see what happens. lol.
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      05-12-2021, 08:22 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggrolls76 View Post
Just had a lengthy conversation with the MCS tech. He wanted me to video the movement of the shock by hand and send it in to them. Also, said the shoulder bolt near the clevis mount has been a problem with the F80's. Retorque or replace and torque to proper spec could solve the sound issue.

I had a relatively quiet after install for about a week, then noticed the sound. I thought it was the end links, so I went thru 3 sets of different end links, and just settling on the SPL rear endlinks. Even swapped out the sway bar with H&R sways front and rear, the sound went away for a day, then came back. Got the Front end links from SPL as well as the Tie Rod Ends...I think its time to just machine my own parts and throw it at the car and see what happens. lol.
Appreciate you passing along the feedback from MCS. Definitely something to look at. Who did you talk to about it? Do you still have the video you sent them? From inside the car, it sounds like the noise is coming from right about where that clevis mount is, but of course it could just be transmitting there from elsewhere down the damper to the control arm and other appendages attached to it and the wheel hub.
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      05-12-2021, 10:22 PM   #42
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I have no idea why I thoroughly read this thread as I don't have this setup and have no insights to offer ... but I'm rooting for you!!
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      05-12-2021, 10:39 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalsMan View Post
Appreciate you passing along the feedback from MCS. Definitely something to look at. Who did you talk to about it? Do you still have the video you sent them? From inside the car, it sounds like the noise is coming from right about where that clevis mount is, but of course it could just be transmitting there from elsewhere down the damper to the control arm and other appendages attached to it and the wheel hub.
FYI I still have the noise, I bought some locking washers to see if that can help stop the clevis mount from moving. The noise doesn't happen all the time.. when the car is at speed (40mph+) it's usually not there. It's only at low speeds driving around neighborhood.. sometimes on bumpy surfaces where the rear get a bit bouncy that I start to hear the knocking.

I'm going to install the locking washers to see if that helps and report back.

If that doesn't work I'm going to see if replacing the bearing/spacers/bolt at the top of the shock/clevis mount will help.

Steve
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      05-13-2021, 09:13 AM   #44
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I have no idea why I thoroughly read this thread as I don't have this setup and have no insights to offer ... but I'm rooting for you!!
That's what makes the forum community work!
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