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      07-20-2020, 10:21 AM   #529
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Anyone have a theory as to why these charge coolers would be so prone to leaking besides a quality control issue?
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      08-16-2020, 02:19 AM   #530
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No pax-side cooling with a/c on.

Took my under-warranty 2019 X4 (26k+ mi.) in to my local BMW stealership because the pax side wasn’t cooling when a/c was on. No failure codes or warnings. Car seemed to be running fine. Tech noticed frightfully low secondary coolant reservoir. No coolant on my garage floor. To resolve, BMW did a complete engine replacement. Tech he said he found that the charge cooler had leaked coolant into the intake manifold. Said it cost $24k+ to replace engine.

Last edited by Cableracer; 08-16-2020 at 02:27 AM..
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      08-16-2020, 02:31 AM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableracer View Post
Took my under-warranty 2019 X4 (26k+ mi.) in to my local BMW stealership because the pax side wasn't cooling when a/c was on. No failure codes or warnings. Car seemed to be running fine. Tech noticed frightfully low secondary coolant reservoir. No coolant on my garage floor. To resolve, BMW did a complete engine replacement. Tech he said he found that the charge cooler had leaked coolant into the intake manifold. Said it cost $24k+ to replace engine.
Wow.. hopefully if u faulty floor mats they will replace your whole car. Most posters here only got the cooler replaced under warranty and obviously some have water ingress concerns.

Wonder if they found something else and didn't tell u hence the full replace.

Anyway congrats on the new motor!
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      08-16-2020, 12:37 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableracer View Post
Took my under-warranty 2019 X4 (26k+ mi.) in to my local BMW stealership because the pax side wasn't cooling when a/c was on. No failure codes or warnings. Car seemed to be running fine. Tech noticed frightfully low secondary coolant reservoir. No coolant on my garage floor. To resolve, BMW did a complete engine replacement. Tech he said he found that the charge cooler had leaked coolant into the intake manifold. Said it cost $24k+ to replace engine.
And that is why I have a CSF chargecooler sitting in my garage to be put in. I would hate to have a brand new car needing an engine replacement. I always find even a bmw dealer messes something up during a big job let alone an engine replacement

I very happy for this thread to warn us about this major issue but at the same time this is my least favourite and the most anxiety provoking thread on the forum! 🤣🤣
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      09-07-2020, 04:50 AM   #533
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Small resurrection here. Noticing i am losing coolant from the charge cooler reservoir. How quick would it be emptying the tank if it was making its way to the engine? i would say mine has gone from sitting on the max line in the tank to below minimum in 100 miles.
My cooler is still cold to touch after a spirited drive and have never had the malfunction error as yet. Just hoping its the expansion tank that is the issue.
Cheers
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      09-07-2020, 11:26 AM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott.b View Post
Small resurrection here. Noticing i am losing coolant from the charge cooler reservoir. How quick would it be emptying the tank if it was making its way to the engine? i would say mine has gone from sitting on the max line in the tank to below minimum in 100 miles.
My cooler is still cold to touch after a spirited drive and have never had the malfunction error as yet. Just hoping its the expansion tank that is the issue.
Cheers
If it's leaking from Full down to Minimum in 100mi the leak isn't minimal. First, look real good at all the welded plastic seams for white buildup (dried coolant). Second, wipe around with some clean white paper towels to look for anything damp. There is 1 tube that runs underneath the TMIC so check there too. If nothing found just go to the dealer since coolant is going somewhere, and anywhere inside isn't good. If no warranty then try the borescope first, then maybe pull off your TMIC assembly and pressure test the air path @25psi in a dunk tank (or bathtub) with the res cap removed. If you get any bubbles coming from the tubes or reservoir then there's a leak between the wet and dry sections.

Alternatively you can swap an aftermarket TMIC or buy another OEM reservoir. I think only a Forge TMIC has a res with it, but may have clearance issues too. Some other brands cause clearance problems with the oil cap. If you're not pushing any boost you can also replace with an OEM TMIC.

IMO just find the leak first.
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      09-07-2020, 06:01 PM   #535
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Thought I'd make a post to update.

If you're looking for an intercooler/charge cooler upgrade and don't want to switch back to another stock one, below I'll link the most popular options that I've seen:

VRSF: https://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-s55-to...0-f82-f87.html

CSF: https://csfrace.com/bmw-f8x-m3-m4-cooling/

BMS: https://burgertuning.com/products/ph...8x-intercooler

There are other options out there like Wagner, CTS, EOS. VRSF (in my opinion) is the best bang for buck but they're honestly all the same design just copied by one another.
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      09-07-2020, 08:39 PM   #536
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Is it likely to hydrolock an engine with this whole leak business?

I am wondering if it is even smart to top up with distilled water rather than drive it dry until you get an appointment
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      09-07-2020, 09:39 PM   #537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeldoo View Post
Is it likely to hydrolock an engine with this whole leak business?

I am wondering if it is even smart to top up with distilled water rather than drive it dry until you get an appointment
I drove it dry and stayed out of boost
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      09-07-2020, 09:48 PM   #538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeldoo View Post
Is it likely to hydrolock an engine with this whole leak business?

I am wondering if it is even smart to top up with distilled water rather than drive it dry until you get an appointment
It's ok to top it off and drive it to a dealer or shop, just don't drive it hard or go full boost. Mine was leaking in to the intake, I changed it and did a valve cleaning with CRC valve cleaner and all is well.
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      09-07-2020, 09:59 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbonly21 View Post
It's ok to top it off and drive it to a dealer or shop, just don't drive it hard or go full boost. Mine was leaking in to the intake, I changed it and did a valve cleaning with CRC valve cleaner and all is well.
I wouldn't top it off then, all it does is lower temps, topping it off introduces more fluid into the motor.
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      09-08-2020, 08:35 AM   #540
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Since i bought the car its likely been low and i have been driving it rather spiritedly as you would expect - id assume i would have known by now if it was leaking to the engine?
Would the charge cooler still feel cold to the touch if it was leaking?
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      09-08-2020, 08:59 AM   #541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott.b View Post
Since i bought the car its likely been low and i have been driving it rather spiritedly as you would expect - id assume i would have known by now if it was leaking to the engine?
Would the charge cooler still feel cold to the touch if it was leaking?
Ya it can as long as there is still a bunch of fluid. At least with mine it did the same.

My idiot ass was running completely dry a few days ago and i did like 10 60-130 pulls over a 1 hour span i don't even know what the AIT's were.

But i never got a Drivetrain Light so who knows.
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      09-15-2020, 08:04 PM   #542
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I'm so paranoid now.. here is mine. I think it looks pretty good, right?
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      09-15-2020, 08:13 PM   #543
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Originally Posted by Mike. View Post
I'm so paranoid now.. here is mine. I think it looks pretty good, right?
That is perfectly full. The little "toilet seat" is covered and the green hasn't covered the "toilet tank" top.
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      09-15-2020, 08:30 PM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike. View Post
I'm so paranoid now.. here is mine. I think it looks pretty good, right?
That is perfectly full. The little "toilet seat" is covered and the green hasn't covered the "toilet tank" top.
Good to know, dodged a bullet for now
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      09-15-2020, 08:33 PM   #545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
Thought I'd make a post to update.

If you're looking for an intercooler/charge cooler upgrade and don't want to switch back to another stock one, below I'll link the most popular options that I've seen:

VRSF
CSF
BMS

There are other options out there like Wagner, CTS, EOS. VRSF (in my opinion) is the best bang for buck but they're honestly all the same design just copied by one another.
When picking my TMIC it was clear that Wagner went above and beyond the other vendors. The Wagner uses a very efficient tube-and-fin design instead of the bar-and-plate used by most other vendors, and has 114% addedcapacity (6.1L versus the OEM 2.85L). Look at how free flowing the heat exchanger grid is in these pix. Even after 6 dyno pulls Wagner was still cold to the touch.
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      09-18-2020, 06:43 AM   #546
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Hi guys, what is the best way to check the IATs?
Can anyone recommend an app and how it works?
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      09-18-2020, 07:58 AM   #547
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Wagner has always used tube & fin in their FMIC's so now in the TMIC's. There are pro's & cons to both designs. Tube and fin cost much more, has a faster heat transfer but holds less heat so when there is less air/water flow it can't absorb as much. Also it is way more prone to damage. Bar and plate is more economical, durable and can absorb & carry more heat but does not release it as fast as tube and fin. Just differences in design, function and cost.
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      09-18-2020, 05:03 PM   #548
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I have recently installed VRSF Intercooler, charge pipes, radiator and Eventuri Cold Air Intake V2 and 2 days ago had an error message "Drive train malfunction".
I took it straight to my mechanic and scanned for error code.
The code was:
108C01 charge air temperature, plausibility: temperature too high
I've left my car with him and today we opened the intercooler reservoir and it's empty....
I've read pretty much the whole thread, is the best course of action to take out the intercooler and put it under a pressure test to see if the leak came from the intercooler?
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      09-18-2020, 05:09 PM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YNWACY View Post
I have recently installed VRSF Intercooler, charge pipes, radiator and Eventuri Cold Air Intake V2 and 2 days ago had an error message "Drive train malfunction".
I took it straight to my mechanic and scanned for error code.
The code was:
108C01 charge air temperature, plausibility: temperature too high
I've left my car with him and today we opened the intercooler reservoir and it's empty....
I've read pretty much the whole thread, is the best course of action to take out the intercooler and put it under a pressure test to see if the leak came from the intercooler?
You have a VRSF charge air cooler that sprung a leak? That's the first I've heard. Message Tiago on Facebook or email/call VRSF and your unit replaced.
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      09-18-2020, 05:16 PM   #550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
You have a VRSF charge air cooler that sprung a leak? That's the first I've heard. Message Tiago on Facebook or email/call VRSF and your unit replaced.
I've dropped them an email.

On Monday will take j pipe off and see if there is any residue in there....
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