Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Man you are getting inundated with questions! Thanks for providing so much feedback here

I had read that Redline 5w-40 has a different base stock than 0w-40. The question here would really be what are the downsides of running the 0w-40? I think it's pertinent because a few people here use FCP as their oil source, hence the adoption of LM by many.

FCP Euro also carries Motul 300V 5w-40.

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by edycol

So Redline 0W40 compared to 5W40 will have bit lighter base, but it is still ester based, so yeah it is pretty much same.
The reason why I said 5W30 is KV100. If you are starting engine at extremely low temperatures, like below -20 or -30, yes 0WXX is always way to go.
But, once you start engine, thicker oil needs more time to thin out to appropriate levels.
5W30 is thinner at let's say 0 degrees once engine is started. It is thinner at KV40. So engine will have "easier" warm up phase on 5W30 than 0W40 which is really thick 40 grade.
Yes, FCP is very popular. I get a lot of stuff from them. I personally would go Pentosin route in that case, not LM route.

Awesome explanation

I personally don’t do the FCP thing (not that I wouldn’t, they just don’t stock my oils), but have used Castrol Edge 0W-40 and currently Motul Xcess G2 5W-40. Definitely a noticeable warm up difference between a 30 and 40 oil. I’m never in cold enough climates to require a 0W. Don’t do enough track days yet to justify Motul Sport or Redline, but those are what I’d probably use if I prove out this year that I’ll be going regularly.

As an open question to anyone who wants to chime in, anybody run 5W-30 in the off season then run 5W-40 in the summer/track season?

Originally Posted by hellokitty

FCP Euro also carries Motul 300V 5w-40.

Yup saw that too! If I ever have a dedicated track car I know where I’ll be getting my oil from lol

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Awesome explanation

I personally don't do the FCP thing (not that I wouldn't, they just don't stock my oils), but have used Castrol Edge 0W-40 and currently Motul Xcess G2 5W-40. Definitely a noticeable warm up difference between a 30 and 40 oil. I'm never in cold enough climates to require a 0W. Don't do enough track days yet to justify Motul Sport or Redline, but those are what I'd probably use if I prove out this year that I'll be going regularly.

As an open question to anyone who wants to chime in, anybody run 5W-30 in the off season then run 5W-40 in the summer/track season?

Yup saw that too! If I ever have a dedicated track car I know where I'll be getting my oil from lol

Is Gen2 some kind of new oil that recently came out? Is it LL-01?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Is Gen2 some kind of new oil that recently came out? Is it LL-01?

Yes it came out in 2021.

LL-01 approved. This is what I use now.

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...l_20200423.pdf

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Yes it came out in 2021.

LL-01 approved. This is what I use now.

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...l_20200423.pdf

Nice, maybe i should do that instead of Castrol 0-40 then? what are your usage conditions?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Nice, maybe i should do that instead of Castrol 0-40 then? what are your usage conditions?

I use it because I am running flex fuel so I wanted the higher TBN to combat oxidation and to a certain extent fuel dilution from running E85.

If you are running pump gas, you'll be good on Castrol 0W-40.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

+1. This is the oil I run on the family cars (Lexus/Honda). Very very good oil for port injected cars and it cleans cleans cleans

I have heard the same which is why it is in the car I bought in July and about to change it now along with the diff and needing input on the DCT. Have a BS bottle ready to do analysis on it. Will be doing at least 5-6 HPDE track days this year in SC/NC/GA.

I have been on these forums for 20 years and see these oil posts all the time and I can't tell you how much I appreciate edycols knowledge on the subject and slapping down the LM cult.

THANK YOU edycol!! And THANK YOU for answering all our questions! edycol for oil czar!!

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Any thoughts on whether I can store oil in a non temperature controlled outdoor shed without issue?

I'm in the northeast. Is a few winter months ok? I also have a few quarts that were stored the same way for ~12 months. dispose or use?

thx

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Any thoughts on whether I can store oil in a non temperature controlled outdoor shed without issue?

I'm in the northeast. Is a few winter months ok? I also have a few quarts that were stored the same way for ~12 months. dispose or use?

thx

https://forfreezing.com/does-motor-o...bad-if-frozen/

[edycol]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

I have heard the same which is why it is in the car I bought in July and about to change it now along with the diff and needing input on the DCT. Have a BS bottle ready to do analysis on it. Will be doing at least 5-6 HPDE track days this year in SC/NC/GA.

I have been on these forums for 20 years and see these oil posts all the time and I can't tell you how much I appreciate edycols knowledge on the subject and slapping down the LM cult.

THANK YOU edycol!! And THANK YOU for answering all our questions! edycol for oil czar!!

There is difference between Mobil1 ILSAC GF6 oils that we use in appliance vehicles and Mobil1 0W40 FS and newly available 5W40FS.
I use M1 5W30 Extended Performance in my Sienna. It is probably best bet considering PAO levels.
But M1 0W40 is completely different animal.
ILSAC GF6 oils are limited in additives, especially ZDDP levels. It is more Low to Mid SAPS oil.
0W40 is street oil that comes closest to track/racing oil, to the point where I am bit sketchy about using it in DI engines. I use it in my N52 sometimes, switch to Castrol 0W40 just bcs. But I don't use it in my wife's Tiguan.
SAPS byproduct is at 1.32% zinc level is up to 1.100ppm which is pretty much limit for PCMO. TBN is 12+. It is just loaded with stuff.
It is basically best oil to have once HTHS is not enough anymore as then additives are one protecting engine, and this thing has more additives than some genuine race oils.
I would definitely avoid this oil in N54 engine. In N/S55 it is bit more confusing as those engines don't have CBU issues like N54. Definitely safe option from wear protection side of things, if not safest. But generally DI and turbo engines like less SAPS levels.

[ALCOBENDAS]

Originally Posted by edycol

Europe has that specific 0W40 called Sport or something? On paper it is same as regular, but probably has more specific additives.
Now, Europe is different. Ravenol makes sense as price difference between Ravenol and other oils is not that high. But here, it is hard to justify that oil when Castrol, Mobil1, Pennzoil (Shell) are $40 cheaper for 5qt jug.
I would though go 5W40 instead of 0W40. Since Ravenol has both grades available with same base stocks, you was less spread between XW and XX. That means more shear stability.

Thanks for the reply take 5w40 for next change

Xenum vrx500 any info?? thanks

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ALCOBENDAS

Thanks for the reply take 5w40 for next change

Xenum vrx500 any info?? thanks

I don't like any kind of additives in the oil. Oil already comes with everything you need.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by edycol

There is difference between Mobil1 ILSAC GF6 oils that we use in appliance vehicles and Mobil1 0W40 FS and newly available 5W40FS.
I use M1 5W30 Extended Performance in my Sienna. It is probably best bet considering PAO levels.
But M1 0W40 is completely different animal.
ILSAC GF6 oils are limited in additives, especially ZDDP levels. It is more Low to Mid SAPS oil.
0W40 is street oil that comes closest to track/racing oil, to the point where I am bit sketchy about using it in DI engines. I use it in my N52 sometimes, switch to Castrol 0W40 just bcs. But I don't use it in my wife's Tiguan.
SAPS byproduct is at 1.32% zinc level is up to 1.100ppm which is pretty much limit for PCMO. TBN is 12+. It is just loaded with stuff.
It is basically best oil to have once HTHS is not enough anymore as then additives are one protecting engine, and this thing has more additives than some genuine race oils.
I would definitely avoid this oil in N54 engine. In N/S55 it is bit more confusing as those engines don't have CBU issues like N54. Definitely safe option from wear protection side of things, if not safest. But generally DI and turbo engines like less SAPS levels.

edycol, was asking what to use in a DCT. Forgive me if I don't understand but it sounds like you are answering about the engine oil. Do uou have any preference on DCT oil?

Also, you would not use M1 0w40 in an S55 because DI?

My wife had a '12 Tiguan and it had build up 2x in a year using Amsoil.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

edycol, was asking what to use in a DCT. Forgive me if I don't understand but it sounds like you are answering about the engine oil. Do uou have any preference on DCT oil?

Also, you would not use M1 0w40 in an S55 because DI?

My wife had a '12 Tiguan and it had build up 2x in a year using Amsoil.

I prefer to stick to BMW OE stuff in DCT, ZF, transfer cases. If going from that then Motul.
As for CBU, VW doesn't have as effective PCV as BMW N/S55 engines. But, CBU is still to certain extent there. That is why I prefer Castrol 0W40 over Mobil1 0W40 in these engines.

Now, I didn't want to add this as it would get bit confusing:
Best prevention to CBU besides very effective PCV (N/S55 has it) and dual direct and port injection, is Low-SAPS oil, a BMW LL04.
SAPS range is 0.8-1%. Reason why BMW didn't use it in North America is very high Sulphur content in gas until 01/2017. Now sulphur content in NA gas is mostly on EU levels.
But, BMW NA still insists on High-SAPS LL01 or LL01 FE, while in EU they use LL04.
Interestingly (confusing actually) in new engines B46/48/58 they use LL17FE which is Low-SAPS 0W20 oil. But, they still say to use LL01 in case you have to add and not LL04 which is basically heavy version of LL17FE.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by edycol

I prefer to stick to BMW OE stuff in DCT, ZF, transfer cases. If going from that then Motul.
As for CBU, VW doesn't have as effective PCV as BMW N/S55 engines. But, CBU is still to certain extent there. That is why I prefer Castrol 0W40 over Mobil1 0W40 in these engines.

>>>That's what I needed.

Now, I didn't want to add this as it would get bit confusing:
Best prevention to CBU besides very effective PCV (N/S55 has it) and dual direct and port injection, is Low-SAPS oil, a BMW LL04.
SAPS range is 0.8-1%. Reason why BMW didn't use it in North America is very high Sulphur content in gas until 01/2017. Now sulphur content in NA gas is mostly on EU levels.
But, BMW NA still insists on High-SAPS LL01 or LL01 FE, while in EU they use LL04.
Interestingly (confusing actually) in new engines B46/48/58 they use LL17FE which is Low-SAPS 0W20 oil. But, they still say to use LL01 in case you have to add and not LL04 which is basically heavy version of LL17FE.

>>>Now I know how my wife feels when I talk car parts.

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

>>>Now I know how my wife feels when I talk car parts.

I swear i was thinking the same. This is like a different language. Amazing

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by edycol

Yes, FCP is very popular. I get a lot of stuff from them. I personally would go Pentosin route in that case, not LM route.

Any thoughts on the Pentosin PentoSpeed 5w-40? Just noticed they carry that at FCP. I'm just not super familiar with Pentosin oils - pretty much always been a BMW, Castrol, & Motul guy.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pen...ntosin-8044206

[edycol]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Any thoughts on the Pentosin PentoSpeed 5w-40? Just noticed they carry that at FCP. I'm just not super familiar with Pentosin oils - pretty much always been a BMW, Castrol, & Motul guy.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pen...ntosin-8044206

Good stuff. Old company, OE supplier to bunch of manufacturers (unlike LM). They are now under Fuchs which is largest German industrial lubricant blender.

[RugbyBro]

So since I now live in a place that has more than 2 seasons, I'm thinking of running a 5w-30 during the Fall/Winter since I drive in grandma mode due to weather and lack of roads worth driving and then swapping to 5w-40 for the spring/summer for spirited driving and hopefully more track days.

My logic is really as follows: since I'm unlikely to drive in a way that's really pushing the engine during the colder & wetter months, it's better to have an oil that comes up to temp faster there by reducing cold engine wear rather than focusing on objectively higher HTHS since I won't really take advantage of it. And when I'm likely to do more high performance stuff in the summer & warmer months, it makes more sense to run a higher HTHS oil where those beneficial properties will come into play since I'll spend more consistent time in the upper RPMs.

Anyone doing the same? I've basically got a blank slate to start over with in terms of oil changes & maintenance. The alternative would be just doing what I was before and running either Motul 5w-40 or Castrol 0w-40 year round. My OCD... uh I mean OCI is usually 5k or 6mos

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

So since I now live in a place that has more than 2 seasons, I'm thinking of running a 5w-30 during the Fall/Winter since I drive in grandma mode due to weather and lack of roads worth driving and then swapping to 5w-40 for the spring/summer for spirited driving and hopefully more track days.

My logic is really as follows: since I'm unlikely to drive in a way that's really pushing the engine during the colder & wetter months, it's better to have an oil that comes up to temp faster there by reducing cold engine wear rather than focusing on objectively higher HTHS since I won't really take advantage of it. And when I'm likely to do more high performance stuff in the summer & warmer months, it makes more sense to run a higher HTHS oil where those beneficial properties will come into play since I'll spend more consistent time in the upper RPMs.

Anyone doing the same? I've basically got a blank slate to start over with in terms of oil changes & maintenance. The alternative would be just doing what I was before and running either Motul 5w-40 or Castrol 0w-40 year round. My OCD... uh I mean OCI is usually 5k or 6mos

Castrol 0w-40 is cheaper than it's 5w-30 equivalent. It's a better oil for 2-3x cheaper in the jug form.

I would not hesitate to use 0w-40 year round. It's not a super thick oil compared to some of the other track focused 5w-40s such as Redline, 300V, HPL, etc.

[r0wr]

Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4

[agentrnge]

Time and again it keeps coming back to Castrol 0w40. But I still ponder going to M1 now and then. I ran that in every car I had up to this M3 for the last 20+ years. Good to know at the very least it would be good to use short term as a "flush"/ clean cycle.