Ultimate crank hub

[F80_mar]

Had the vtt hub for a 6 months, car was running full e and it held up pretty solid. However the car didn't hold up so good as an injector failed on and the rest is history. Here we are now, to clarify, mo
The vtt v2 hub did not spin on me and I think it is a solid hub, but it was never a piece of mind for me if you get what I'm saying. With the money invested into what I was doing with the car it would be a nightmare for another motor failure due to me being cheap on a crank hub. Motor got rebuilt by one of the best shops around and threw some turbos on it while I'm at it, and was in no financial position on to do it again. So I did something to help me sleep better at nights, I hit my boy Shah up from SSR Performance on what I consider a bulletproof crank hub. MandPperformance did the work and they believe this crank hub is worth the extra 2 wholes for the extra piece of mind. This was also the hub they recommend and of the few they are willing to install. I highly recommend SSR performance crank paired MandP performance work if you are on the East coast with an s55, remind you, these car spin stock or modded. Don't be like me, don't do it twice just do it the right way once it cost more to do it twice, the ultimate way. As I said the vtt hub never spun on me, but if you are planning to push your car to certain extent like the car is made for I would I go with the ssr.

This post is not to bash another company, this is just me giving my 2 cents.

SSR performance and MandP performance, if you are on the east coast and need your car done, hmu we will take care of you.

[Wanted_M]

Bummer on your injector issue, I'm new to the M f82 world and I'm trying to understand your reasoning going from VTT (seems to be a decent design) but SSR is better due to keys?
What has me concerned is all those metal flakes/particles from drilling out the crank dimples, how are they guaranteeing motor cleanliness?

[guess2098]

From your picture it looks like vtt v2 did bite into the hub

[F80_mar]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

Bummer on your injector issue, I'm new to the M f82 world and I'm trying to understand your reasoning going from VTT (seems to be a decent design) but SSR is better due to keys?
What has me concerned is all those metal flakes/particles from drilling out the crank dimples, how are they guaranteeing motor cleanliness?

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

Bummer on your injector issue, I'm new to the M f82 world and I'm trying to understand your reasoning going from VTT (seems to be a decent design) but SSR is better due to keys?
What has me concerned is all those metal flakes/particles from drilling out the crank dimples, how are they guaranteeing motor cleanliness?

The flakes are from the vtt installation, cutting its teeth in the hub, my concern is yes the vtt does bite in the hub but what stops the 2 disc from spinnng apart? The SSR has pins and the and small blocks that would stop the 2 disc from spinning apart. I have heard of the v2 failure but it's not yet confirmed.

[F80_mar]

Originally Posted by guess2098

From your picture it looks like vtt v2 did bite into the hub

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

Bummer on your injector issue, I'm new to the M f82 world and I'm trying to understand your reasoning going from VTT (seems to be a decent design) but SSR is better due to keys?
What has me concerned is all those metal flakes/particles from drilling out the crank dimples, how are they guaranteeing motor cleanliness?

Originally Posted by guess2098

From your picture it looks like vtt v2 did bite into the hub

It did, however what about the 2 disc that the chain goes on what locks those together? Another thing is I like the fact it bit into the hub however with a lot of force who is to say it won't shred ?

[MadM2C]

Lol you guys advertise a LOT.

[F80_mar]

Originally Posted by MadM2C

Lol you guys advertise a LOT.

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Why is this being posted again? Already an existing thread https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1747167

Originally Posted by MadM2C

Lol you guys advertise a LOT.

Sorry guys I posted in the wrong area, the post belongs in here as this section is for engine and drivetrain. Also I do not work for SSR and I paid full price for my product I'm just trying to help people make the right choice that's all

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by F80_mar

The flakes are from the vtt installation, cutting its teeth in the hub, my concern is yes the vtt does bite in the hub but what stops the 2 disc from spinnng apart? The SSR has pins and the and small blocks that would stop the 2 disc from spinning apart. I have heard of the v2 failure but it's not yet confirmed.

To be clear, there are zero V2 failures out there. Hundreds in the field, including 3 stock motor 9 second cars, not a single one has slipped. It's a very aggressive design that has been proven time and time again. It locks the hub to the crank.

Originally Posted by F80_mar

It did, however what about the 2 disc that the chain goes on what locks those together? Another thing is I like the fact it bit into the hub however with a lot of force who is to say it won't shred ?

It is an interference fit with spline profile designed to transmit torque. The engineering is fairly straight forward for this sort of torque transfer, but in essence you pick how much of an interference fit you need by classification of torque transmittal needs, material properties and number of splines. The splinelock exceeds minimum recommended fit profile for high torque applications by a huge margin. I.e. she won't shred.

Thanks,
Chris

[K4503]

Does anybody know where I can get information on the stock crank such as dimensions as I have access to a crank grinding shop and looking to get a custom made one done

[MR RIZK]

F80_mar Can you post high res pic's of the teeth of the removed VTT hub and the KM's on this?

This will go a long way when owners are making a decision to go with which hub.

Not many owners would remove the hub if there is no issue so the data is quite light out there in the wild from any vendor.

[papasmurf_m3]

No offense bro. But, your post sounds a bit like a scripted advertisement for a different crank hub fix. Kind of in a greasy used car salesmanish way.

I doubt those metal shavings on your timing chain and plastic chain guide are from the VTT V2. They look like they're from the drilling of your crankshaft for the SSR 4 pin install.

On the reals. I'm glad you you got your car fixed. Nobody likes to see a fellow F8Xer down.

[kenf80]

Originally Posted by F80_mar

It did, however what about the 2 disc that the chain goes on what locks those together? Another thing is I like the fact it bit into the hub however with a lot of force who is to say it won't shred ?

The only sprocket(disc) that matters is the first one for timing chain. The second one is for oil pump and does not necessarily need to be one piece onto the hub.

[Tricki]

Cmon, this post sounds such a promoted cheesy write up!!!

The VTT hub presses into the crank and the so called shavings would be impossible to come from that.... shavings come from drilling 🤔🤔 i wonder where that would come from??

If you did your research on the hubs you would surely know that the second sprocket is for the oil pump and has no bearing on the timing which is also a one piece on the VTT.

Thirdly in engineering teems you would also know that excessive torque is what would make the hub spin and a 360degree load is better, more reliable and stronger than a 4 pin design. What says the 4 pins cant snap off under load?

Sorry about your car and good luck with the build and glad you can sleep better with the crankhub from SSR... just hope you dont wake up in sweats over your 6 injectors where its the cause of your whole mess..... maybe you should look into a fault proof injector.... just saying...

BTW i had VTT Crankhub installed 2 months ago amd havent been paid or approached to write this 😁😁

[Wanted_M]

Hey Tricki, glad to hear VTT is working for you. I have two questions;
Did you install the VTT bolt capture with VTT hub?
Was hub bolt tq to stock spec or followed what HM recommends +20nm, 90* on bolt?

[Tricki]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

Hey Tricki, glad to hear VTT is working for you. I have two questions;
Did you install the VTT bolt capture with VTT hub?
Was hub bolt tq to stock spec or followed what HM recommends +20nm, 90* on bolt?

Yeah i had the capture plate installed on its own last year... then of course with the VTT hub.

Unsure of the spec as the mechanic i used has installed several of them...

[Smee]

so i have a concern/question.

All hubs are an element of pressure fitted in to the end of the crank. the VTT is slightly over size thus is bites in to the crank.... having now removed the VTT and going back to a pressure fitted hub (albeit with 4 pins) isnt the fit a little loose? i.e all your torque is now being transfered only via the 4 pins and not really from the pressure fit??

hope that makes sense?

[rokkuchan]

I think both designs are good. What if u have a crank hub that's one piece with splines and 4 pins???

It was a hard choice for me. I picked the keyed hub at the end. Both modifies the crankshaft either way - drilling at least it can be cleaned up. Press fitting u left with the bits inside (probably not an issue) and I always thought splines should be mated with a machined male and female.

[GreyblackM4]

Originally Posted by Smee

so i have a concern/question.

All hubs are an element of pressure fitted in to the end of the crank. the VTT is slightly over size thus is bites in to the crank.... having now removed the VTT and going back to a pressure fitted hub (albeit with 4 pins) isnt the fit a little loose? i.e all your torque is now being transfered only via the 4 pins and not really from the pressure fit??

hope that makes sense?

I have this same concern, if you remove the Vargas hub to replace your timing chain for example, even when you put it back in, wouldn’t you have to line it up with the exact splines since the crank snout material would have been “taken off” by the splines the first time, so if you put the hub on again without lining up the splines, it could bite into the remaining metal on the snout and then potentially strip the metal upon biting, removing the pressure fitting and allowing it to spin again? I’m not sure how removal and re-using the Vargas hub would work..

Not a knock on Vargas, just trying to make sure I consider all the different scenarios that could potentially cause a problem down the road.