Diy request: differential bushings.

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by NeverLift_F82

For those who tackled this job DIY or even brought it to a shop, did you "renew" every single bolt, screw and nut that you removed? I was wondering if all the hardware is actually one time use or you can reuse. Any advice on this ?

I reused all the bolts except the ones I mentioned in my thread above. My subframe bolts were pretty dirty and rough so I replaced them.

[NeverLift_F82]

Originally Posted by marauder1

I reused all the bolts except the ones I mentioned in my thread above. My subframe bolts were pretty dirty and rough so I replaced them.

Thanks mate. Yes makes sense to inspect all the hardware and replace if required. On a side note when you did the job, do you think there is enough clearance to get a socket in to remove the 3 bolts that hold the rear bracket to the diff ? I.e if you want to run the turner twin bushing bracket. Also did you manage to get the e torx bolt that was close to the fuel tank off with the e torx spanner without further dropping the subframe ?

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by NeverLift_F82

Thanks mate. Yes makes sense to inspect all the hardware and replace if required. On a side note when you did the job, do you think there is enough clearance to get a socket in to remove the 3 bolts that hold the rear bracket to the diff ? I.e if you want to run the turner twin bushing bracket. Also did you manage to get the e torx bolt that was close to the fuel tank off with the e torx spanner without further dropping the subframe ?

Yea if you drop the diff onto the service bolts you should have enough room to remove the brace to get the turned one on. What I had to do was remove the service bolt from the front left and put a jack under that side to allow it to fall a bit lower. Allowing me to pull the bolt out. I used those wrenches I linked and a mallet to whack the wrench to get the bolt to break loose.

[SquamM2C]

Originally Posted by marauder1

Yea the bushing is to the guibo. I didn't pull the driveshaft from the diff. That requires a specialized tool that costs $480. A lot easier to just pull the other end and slide the front differential holder down the driveshaft.
Torque specs are for the guibo to driveshaft

Just doing this job right now, i noticed last night after removing the heat shield, that the Front Diff Holder has to slide over the Center drive shaft support.... was this an issue getting it around this? Just FYI i am doing this on an M2C so not sure if the f80 has a centre drive shaft support or not. Thanks for any info

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by SquamM2C

Just doing this job right now, i noticed last night after removing the heat shield, that the Front Diff Holder has to slide over the Center drive shaft support.... was this an issue getting it around this? Just FYI i am doing this on an M2C so not sure if the f80 has a centre drive shaft support or not. Thanks for any info

We dont have a center drive shaft support...

[SquamM2C]

Originally Posted by hC1001

We dont have a center drive shaft support...

All good, same method worked on the M2 chassis just had to sneak it around the centre mount. Thanks for the DIY

[mapster37]

Originally Posted by hC1001

We dont have a center drive shaft support...

FYI: Not all f8x have carbon driveshafts...

[Samf82m4]

Was under my car today installing my new EMD springs and noticed the rear bushing was starting to crack. Fronts look ok. If I lower the subframe using the service bolts, can I get a bushing tool in there to replace the bushing without removing anything else? (minus ground strap). Based on this thread and the photos I've seen, it looks possible but I just wanted to confirm. I would go with the new upgraded 2018+ OEM bushings with the turner motorsport dual mount adapter.

[Samf82m4]

Originally Posted by marauder1

Yea the bushing is to the guibo. I didn't pull the driveshaft from the diff. That requires a specialized tool that costs $480. A lot easier to just pull the other end and slide the front differential holder down the driveshaft.
Torque specs are for the guibo to driveshaft

What tool is that? I see special tool 2348293 but that's only 100$

[GuyLedouche]

Originally Posted by Samf82m4

What tool is that? I see special tool 2348293 but that's only 100$

My guess would be the "special tool" listed right after the one you quoted.

[ninekrpm]

here is the tool you need, be sure to get the adapter as well.




https://agatools.com/collections/bmw...31188901560366


https://agatools.com/collections/bmw...31067807481902

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by hC1001

They are dropping the entire subframe to swap out the bushings. Not sure if thats easier or not from the BMW instructions, its nice they didnt need to remove the rear axles. I think im gonna try the BMW way of lowering the subframe a little bit but leave the rear axles connected. Hoping there is enough room for me to drill out the rubber bushing and then use a hacksaw or something to cut the bushings metal sleeve. Since the PF bushing is a two piece design, i hope there is enough room to squeeze them in. Dont have to bother using a bushing remover/installer.

Will create a DIY if its successful.

were you able to do this without following ECS instructions? Felt like they went over the top on removal

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by Twhill19

were you able to do this without following ECS instructions? Felt like they went over the top on removal

Yes by using the service bolts and lowering the subframe on the driverside to remove the front diff bushing bracket.

I used powerflex bushings for front and rear to make install easier.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by hC1001

Yes by using the service bolts and lowering the subframe on the driverside to remove the front diff bushing bracket.

I used powerflex bushings for front and rear to make install easier.

I have powerflex front a rear sitting waiting. How long did it take you?

[MDGreen]

Having just done this, a few recommendations:
- Yes the ECS directions are overkill. I was able to access everything using the longer service bolts (and yes, you will need to drop one side down past what the service bolt allows, but it's fine).
- Remove the driveshaft at the flex disc. No special tool needed, no clunking from your driveshaft once the repair is done. And you can put in a fresh flex disc if you're so inclined (I did, mine didn't look that great).
- Having run Powerflex black bushings in my race car, I went with purple for this as a street/track car. Extremely happy with that choice. There's a reason BMW didn't use the second mount for the diff, so I stayed away from the ESC/Turner dual mounts as I prefer to go with what the OEM decided was best. No noise, no issues, and the car hooks up better than ever under hard acceleration.

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by Twhill19

I have powerflex front a rear sitting waiting. How long did it take you?

Around a whole day. I took my time and didnt have much instructions so i was figuring things out as i went. I spent a while on the rear bushing. i used a mallet to try to loosen up the bushing and the center rubber fell out of the sleeve accidentally. After that, it was very easy to cut the sleeve and remove it.

Couldve saved a lot of time if i knew that the rubber comes out.

[Samf82m4]

Those that have done this, do you think any M12x1.5x115 bolt would work? I've been seeing long delivery times on the genuine bolt.

[MDGreen]

Originally Posted by Samf82m4

Those that have done this, do you think any M12x1.5x115 bolt would work? I've been seeing long delivery times on the genuine bolt.

I see absolutely no problem with that. The OEM bolts are tapered to make cross-threading less likely, but as long as you're careful and use a big washer with the bolt, you'll be fine.

[Samf82m4]

Almost have everything to start tackling this. Just waiting on the front powerflex bushings which are back ordered for 5-6 weeks

I'm going to make a homemade bushing extractor out of some 3"ID steel pipe from my local hardware store so I can avoid cutting the rear bushing out.

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by Samf82m4

Almost have everything to start tackling this. Just waiting on the front powerflex bushings which are back ordered for 5-6 weeks

I'm going to make a homemade bushing extractor out of some 3"ID steel pipe from my local hardware store so I can avoid cutting the rear bushing out.

Originally Posted by Samf82m4

Almost have everything to start tackling this. Just waiting on the front powerflex bushings which are back ordered for 5-6 weeks

I'm going to make a homemade bushing extractor out of some 3"ID steel pipe from my local hardware store so I can avoid cutting the rear bushing out.

Youll want to make the plate pretty strong. Last diy bushing press I made for my Miata, just deformed partway through. So I'd have a hack saw on standby.

[Samf82m4]

@hc1001 when installing the service bolts, what was your strategy? Support by the diff and lower the whole subframe onto the bolts? Or lower each corner down at a time?

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by Samf82m4

@hc1001 when installing the service bolts, what was your strategy? Support by the diff and lower the whole subframe onto the bolts? Or lower each corner down at a time?

Its been a while but i believe i supported one side at a time to remove the original bolts and install the service bolts. You can use the jack points on the rear subframe like i did in this pic. Start with the passengerside first.