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      09-01-2014, 04:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaynardZed View Post

I'll post a detailed track review including comparisons to my E36 track car in a separate thread in this track section.

Attachment 1084974
You keep saying that
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      09-01-2014, 05:30 PM   #24
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All 4 rotors turned out ok. Nothing obvious during runout. Changed back to street pads and wheels/tires. Vibration is still there. Most likely just bad pad deposit. hopefully it will clear up in few days. i never bed my brakes before, just put them on and drove to track then on. maybe pagids are more finicky, never had issues with pfcs.
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      09-01-2014, 06:07 PM   #25
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Use a scotch brite pad on the end of a drill. If the vibration is due to deposits, that will take care of it immediately.

It may take a while for the stock pads to remove deposits left by the track pads.
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      09-01-2014, 06:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTS View Post
You keep saying that
Done

INDE Motorsports Ranch, Wilcox, AZ
Configuration 5 (full course): 2:12.92
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Road course laptimes for BMW M4 2015 6MT
WHP East Track: 1:04.880, Arizona Motorsports Park: 1:54.352
Road course laptimes for Porsche 911 991.1 GTS 7MT
WHP East Track: 1:02.770, Arizona Motorsports Park: 1:48.889

Last edited by MaynardZed; 09-08-2014 at 03:20 PM..
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      09-08-2014, 02:03 PM   #27
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Went back to VIR this weekend with THSCC, and improved my previous weekend time by 3.5 seconds (thanks to following my buddy in newly built Spec E46).
Ran a 2:12.99. Video of the lap and playing with spec e46 coming soon.
Was not a fluke either, ran several consistent 2:13s too.
Carbotech XP12/XP10 combo worked amazing. No deposit/vibration issues either.
Harrys' lap time shows 2:12.99, but damn video software rounded it up to 2:13
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      09-08-2014, 02:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Went back to VIR this weekend with THSCC, and improved my previous weekend time by 3.5 seconds (thanks to following my buddy in newly built Spec E46).
Ran a 2:12.99. Video of the lap and playing with spec e46 coming soon.
Was not a fluke either, ran several consistent 2:13s too.
Carbotech XP12/XP10 combo worked amazing. No deposit/vibration issues either.
Harrys' lap time shows 2:12.99, but damn video software rounded it up to 2:13
Great to hear!

My XP12/10 will be here in a week or so. Just in time for my next track day
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      09-08-2014, 05:07 PM   #29
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      09-08-2014, 07:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Went back to VIR this weekend with THSCC, and improved my previous weekend time by 3.5 seconds (thanks to following my buddy in newly built Spec E46).
Ran a 2:12.99. Video of the lap and playing with spec e46 coming soon.
Was not a fluke either, ran several consistent 2:13s too.
Carbotech XP12/XP10 combo worked amazing. No deposit/vibration issues either.
Harrys' lap time shows 2:12.99, but damn video software rounded it up to 2:13
Do you have the part number / pad shape # for the F8x ? I don't see it listed on bimmerworld yet?

Easy to switch out yourself like other bmw? Assume you put 12 up front, 10 in rear? Thanks
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      09-08-2014, 08:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaynardZed View Post
Do you have the part number / pad shape # for the F8x ? I don't see it listed on bimmerworld yet?

Easy to switch out yourself like other bmw? Assume you put 12 up front, 10 in rear? Thanks
Yes, XP12 front, XP10 rear. Easy to switch out, pop the pins with a punch, take the clip out, pads come out, new pads go in.

The caliper wear sensor fits a bit too snug on carbotech for my taste, so I zip tied it to the strut for the track. Will re-install once carbotech 1521s go back on.

I've ordered the pads directly from carbotech by calling their main number.

This is the fitment you want:

335i w/M Sport Package Calipers,
2014-2014
F: CT1609
R: CT1656
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      09-09-2014, 12:11 AM   #32
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      09-09-2014, 12:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Yes, XP12 front, XP10 rear. Easy to switch out, pop the pins with a punch, take the clip out, pads come out, new pads go in.

The caliper wear sensor fits a bit too snug on carbotech for my taste, so I zip tied it to the strut for the track. Will re-install once carbotech 1521s go back on.

I've ordered the pads directly from carbotech by calling their main number.

This is the fitment you want:

335i w/M Sport Package Calipers,
2014-2014
F: CT1609
R: CT1656
Can the pads be swapped without removing the wheels?

Sorry if it's a stupid question..
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      09-15-2014, 10:52 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthal View Post
The bolded section I don't necessarily agree with. Track pads that are not bedded from the factory (especially new ones) will out gas and have other issues if not properly bedded. I have seen it happen. I think you have been fortunate. Why would ALL track pad manufacturers very strongly warn about proper bedding if it was BS? Nothing in it for them other than ensuring the pads operate as intended... I tend to trust their engineers, along with my experience not bedding pads, in that it results in better performing pads with less issues.

The rest, I agree with
The bedding process happens naturally, there's no need to intentionally bed the pads. All you are doing is transferring pad material to the rotors which happens after the first few laps. I think the manufacturer is talking about bedding for racers who needs to have full stopping power at the first brake point. For us HPDE guys, it is unnecessary, the first lap of the weekend is usually under yellow and people are getting reacclimated to the track. Just drive at 5/10th or whatever and it will be bedded in a few minutes. My rotor always has a nice blue tint to them after the first session. The bedding procedures are not necessary for what we do.
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      09-15-2014, 01:48 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyav8tor View Post
The bedding process happens naturally, there's no need to intentionally bed the pads. All you are doing is transferring pad material to the rotors which happens after the first few laps. I think the manufacturer is talking about bedding for racers who needs to have full stopping power at the first brake point. For us HPDE guys, it is unnecessary, the first lap of the weekend is usually under yellow and people are getting reacclimated to the track. Just drive at 5/10th or whatever and it will be bedded in a few minutes. My rotor always has a nice blue tint to them after the first session. The bedding procedures are not necessary for what we do.
exactly....plus I also feel that during the hpde, you are actually bedding in more times than realized because it transfers a layer of pad, and then it scrapes it off, and then repeat, all throughout one day.

hence, sometimes squeal, sometimes not, randomly throughout the day.

but when you go back to stock pads, or whatever pads you use for streeting, it will vibrate due to the difference in material from track pad transferred onto rotors now causing weird ass friction with different material from street pad.
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      09-15-2014, 02:03 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82FTW View Post
Can the pads be swapped without removing the wheels?

Sorry if it's a stupid question..
seeing that there is barely a gap between the caliper and then wheel well, i dont see how this is possible.
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      09-15-2014, 02:14 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Awesome. Thanks for posting.
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      09-16-2014, 11:16 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkimM3r View Post
exactly....plus I also feel that during the hpde, you are actually bedding in more times than realized because it transfers a layer of pad, and then it scrapes it off, and then repeat, all throughout one day.

hence, sometimes squeal, sometimes not, randomly throughout the day.

but when you go back to stock pads, or whatever pads you use for streeting, it will vibrate due to the difference in material from track pad transferred onto rotors now causing weird ass friction with different material from street pad.
I've found that driving the car to and from track events with the race pads will clean pad material off the rotors. So, after a weekend at the track, I drive home doing normal light braking and the rotors are nice and clean by the time I'm home. I then put my street pads back on and done! The same for going to the track, put race pads on before going and the race pads will clean all street pad materials that might be on the rotors. The race pads operate at a much higher temperature range, so when they are not doing track duties, it is very abrasive and will scrape the rotor pretty good. Which is why they say race pads eat rotors. When you bed the brakes, that layer of pad material on the rotor prevents excessive wear.
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      09-16-2014, 02:37 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Nice vid. Glad to see you got it out there. A well sorted E46 is quick through the corners. Nice driving!
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      09-16-2014, 02:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo8765 View Post
Awesome. Thanks for posting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Esq View Post
Nice vid. Glad to see you got it out there. A well sorted E46 is quick through the corners. Nice driving!
Thanks guys. Wish I had time and money to do this more often.
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      09-17-2014, 11:39 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo8765 View Post
Hard to find any lap time data.

Please post if you have any including pertinent details i.e. mods, track conditions, experience level etc.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INDE Motorsports Ranch Configuration #5:
2:12.92 MaynardZed M4 Stock

VIR Full
2:12.99 jbraslins M3 RA1 275/35-18 non-staggered/carbotech
out here in california the new M's are good for at least:
2:02.1 at buttonwillow
1:24.8 at streets of willow
both were on 275 squared rs3's in a pretty hot summer with stock suspension.
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      09-21-2014, 07:45 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey@RWE View Post
out here in california the new M's are good for at least:
2:02.1 at buttonwillow
1:24.8 at streets of willow
both were on 275 squared rs3's in a pretty hot summer with stock suspension.
For those of us on the the east coast, which BW configuration?

Can you comment on lap times with a staggered setup vs a non-staggered setup?
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      09-21-2014, 08:05 PM   #43
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Are you just running the HLT app on the stock GPS in your phone or are you using a higher resolution external GPS?



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      09-21-2014, 09:21 PM   #44
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