Rounded-off wheel stud nut: How can I screw this up?

[jfritz27]

Figured better to post here than in Wheels section.... looking for any advice to avoid bigger problems.

I have Apex wheel studs installed (hex head variety), with stock 437M's currently mounted. My stupid dealer way over-torqued the nuts, and in using my breaker bar to get one of them loose when up at Lime Rock (my first time there, grrr), I rounded one off (advice: only ever use hex head socket). Need to get this taken care of in next couple weeks before next track day so I can get my NT01's back on.

Was considering I'd just take to my local shop to do and change out all the studs while at it (I ordered bimmerworld's race set), but am debating trying to address myself and save some $. My plan:

1. Get this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-BOLT-GR...s%2C144&sr=1-5
Hopefully the above kit is deep enough to accommodate the length of the protruding stud prior to engaging the nut, I think it should be
2. Spray some thread buster on the affected nut/stud, and let sit overnight
3. Find the appropriate extractor, hammer on semi-gently to the affected nut, then use breaker bar to try to loosen.

This seems relatively straightforward, but not sure if there's any tricks/tips to avoid worsening the situation. I'm somewhat concerned about snapping the stud and digging myself in deeper. If for some reason the whole stud comes out whole that's fine, as I have replacements lined up. With my luck, though, I'll snap the damn stud. Am I being overly paranoid?

Thx gents

[Suds]

Only thing that I question is the 3/8” drive on the bolt extractor.
That soundS light weight for a nut that was probably over-torqued with a 1/2” drive.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by Suds

Only thing that I question is the 3/8” drive on the bolt extractor.
That soundS light weight for a nut that was probably over-torqued with a 1/2” drive.

Thanks.... yeah, I hear you. But I can't seem to find an extractor set in a 1/2" drive that otherwise has the correct size/profile for the nut size. I definitely need something deep and low-profile enough to get over the stud and fit within the lug holes of the wheel

[Suds]

I always use a 3” or 6” extension between the socket and wrench when I torque my wheel nuts. I also bought an 18” breaker bar, this allows a lot more control on removing wheel nuts. You could use a cheater pipe to give you more leverage.

[Gomeler]

Cant comment on studs, never had a set on a car.

Originally Posted by Suds

I always use a 3” or 6” extension between the socket and wrench when I torque my wheel nuts. I also bought an 18” breaker bar, this allows a lot more control on removing wheel nuts. You could use a cheater pipe to give you more leverage.

Save yourself time, get an electric impact. They're a dream and make zipping wheels off a piece of cake. ~5 years later and I have zero regrets besides maybe not being an early adopter to electric impacts.

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by Gomeler

Save yourself time, get an electric impact. They're a dream and make zipping wheels off a piece of cake. ~5 years later and I have zero regrets besides maybe not being an early adopter to electric impacts.

+1. Compact brushless one is in my trackbox, swapping wheels is a dream. Just use a torque stick to put the nuts back on... I do that, then torque the nuts by hand after the car's back on the ground. 60 lb torque stick works best for the various BMWs.