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      03-14-2020, 09:59 PM   #1
deli333
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Suspensions dont work/ or smthngg else aka extremely bumpy ride

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Hi firstly i hate the roads in UK..

Ok my probl3m is extremely bumpy drive. I have 20" wheels with 285/30/20 and 265/30/20 on the front. I normally drive efficient engine/ sport suspensions and sport steering.
car is lowered.

I have never liked comfort suspensions even in 19's but sometimes 20 was too hars to ride in sport, still i couldnt drive in comfort more than 15 mins.

anyways last month my edc cable went wrong all of a sudden and the car gave chasis function error. I ord3red a new cable and meantime i kept using the car only for three days and the suspension wqs just perfect. i was like f word edc,f word adaptive suspensions this is just greatm. Just a day before I replace edc cable, the bumpiness started, especially from the rear car is like jumping , it makes me feel like every tire and suspension just randomly jumps. even if i replace the ed cable and have the function back it doesnt matter, it is bumpy.

The weird thint is if i select sport plus suspension, it gets even worse. If i choose comfort it is a little bit less, less bumpy. we inspected it and couldnt come up with anything. does anyone have any idea, any garage you recommend in south west area in UK?
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      03-15-2020, 09:16 AM   #2
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When the edc fails the shocks go full closed (full stiff) at zero amps so you get max damping at all times... forum memeber racer20 did a dyno plot that showed this and itís quite a bit more force than even sport plus... forum member jetbill did a great thread on edc capabilities in the m2 forum I recommend you search for it and check it out... you can always unplug one of the edc cables under the hood and drive it like that and plug back in anytime... also you can code in CS edc program which is stiffer than zcp or civic settings
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      03-15-2020, 10:36 AM   #3
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my problem is that i dont have that stiffness anymore.just pure bumpiness except in comfort mode( still bumpy though)
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      03-15-2020, 02:53 PM   #4
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You may have a blown shock possibly a rear one... if one of the shocks is in fact blown and lost most or all of its dampening force that could explain why itís best in comfort because the rest of the shocks would be matching up better with the blown one... if you remove the rear shocks which is easy, they should be very difficult to move as they go full stiff at zero amps (unplugged), so if one of them is easy to move throght the stroke quickly by hand and the other is difficult the you know which one is blown... just a thought good luck
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      03-16-2020, 02:07 PM   #5
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whitstap

you seem to be right, I feel it especially from the rear left. The bumpiness starts there and the rest of the car jumps afterwards. thanks for the advice
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      03-22-2020, 10:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deli333 View Post
whitstap

you seem to be right, I feel it especially from the rear left. The bumpiness starts there and the rest of the car jumps afterwards. thanks for the advice
I've had this problem before, where the car just feels sort of locked up for no apparent reason. I suspect that the valves get stuck in the failsafe position or some intermediate position and don't operate properly until they get unstuck.

When it happened to my car it rode like crap for a couple days and then one day just started working again.

At the time I had the service software and I did all the diagnostic and reset/calibration procedures and nothing worked. When the valve is stuck there's no way the car can sense it and there's no way to test for it even with the software.

Putting it in comfort mode and driving over a rough road might help, switching modes quickly, or doing some quick steering inputs or abrupt lane changes. What you're trying to do is give the dampers a big current spike and then get the dampers moving quickly. Hopefully that unsticks whatever's stuck.

Of course; it could be something totally different.
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      03-23-2020, 09:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer20 View Post
I've had this problem before, where the car just feels sort of locked up for no apparent reason. I suspect that the valves get stuck in the failsafe position or some intermediate position and don't operate properly until they get unstuck.

When it happened to my car it rode like crap for a couple days and then one day just started working again.

At the time I had the service software and I did all the diagnostic and reset/calibration procedures and nothing worked. When the valve is stuck there's no way the car can sense it and there's no way to test for it even with the software.

Putting it in comfort mode and driving over a rough road might help, switching modes quickly, or doing some quick steering inputs or abrupt lane changes. What you're trying to do is give the dampers a big current spike and then get the dampers moving quickly. Hopefully that unsticks whatever's stuck.

Of course; it could be something totally different.
Good input and thx for all your contributions to the forum Racer20... deli333 had said that when his edc cable failed he actually preferred the ride at full closed passive valving (which I had also felt years ago when my edc failed and then saw your and jetbill’s posts which correlated my experience) and the he said something changed (possibly stuck valve) and his ride got way worse and even after fixing edc the ride continued to be way off and was best in comfort but still bouncy so I was guessing that the one rear shocks was pogoing off the bump stop as it had lost most or all of its damping and has so little bump travel to begin with on lowering springs... deli333 let us know what you find Racer20 has given you some hope that you may not need a new shock but you can find used edc shocks super cheap on the forum if you need a new one
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      03-24-2020, 04:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitstap View Post
Good input and thx for all your contributions to the forum Racer20... deli333 had said that when his edc cable failed he actually preferred the ride at full closed passive valving (which I had also felt years ago when my edc failed and then saw your and jetbillís posts which correlated my experience) and the he said something changed (possibly stuck valve) and his ride got way worse and even after fixing edc the ride continued to be way off and was best in comfort but still bouncy so I was guessing that the one rear shocks was pogoing off the bump stop as it had lost most or all of its damping and has so little bump travel to begin with on lowering springs... deli333 let us know what you find Racer20 has given you some hope that you may not need a new shock but you can find used edc shocks super cheap on the forum if you need a new one
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whitstap
well guys some bad news.

one of my rear shock was in bad condition,so we replaced both rear shocks with clean ones however bumpiness still continue. now it is pretty random in every mode, it is worst in sport and better in sport plus and comfort. also there is uneven wear on my rear tyres but people say it shouldnt make this much bumpiness. it feels like sometimes i lose the left tyre completely up in the air. arms etc, bushes seemed ok.

the feeling is like my rear tyres have big acnes on the surface, i hope you get what i mean.
and yesterday just before we change the shocks, after flooring i had a sudden brake and i had difficulty keeping car straight. it was not like torque based traction lose more like whole car trying to go right.
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      03-24-2020, 05:48 PM   #9
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Damn sorry to hear that... have you tried unplugging one of the edc wires and driving with edc disconnected in “passive” full closed jetting... might need to recalibrate the edc module now but Racer20 and some of the more experienced coding/software guys would know more about that than me as I’ve never done it myself... may also need to update/calibrate the eps module as well as that that can cause a “pull” to the right and even cause uneven tire wear but sounds like something is haywire with your edc... sorry for your trouble good luck
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      03-25-2020, 08:18 AM   #10
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whitstap

I tried what Racer20 said however no chance.
Do you mean recalibrating/resetting edc module? I have seena topic about it. Will look into further and let you guys know. my garage says it might be because of rear tyres, I will post a photo of tyres as well today
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      03-25-2020, 02:04 PM   #11
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whitstap

photos from tyres after 10 mins driving. right now it is almost impossible to drive in sport plus. I havent heard/seen such a thing before.

View post on imgur.com
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      03-25-2020, 02:24 PM   #12
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Tires look fine rears are worn but no way thats the issue... have you tried unplugging one of the edc cables from the strut top under the hood and driving it with edc disabled? Is the ride bad/unstable all the time or just under power when accelerating?
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      03-25-2020, 04:35 PM   #13
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whitstap

tried it, it was more like sport plus driving. I mean bumpiness continued.
When I was putting back edc cable one guy came and asked what is wrong, he then said he knows the issue and resetted some suspension modules via obd2 device. it now seems better as compared to before, however not like before. still it is best in comfort lol. very weird. that acne on the left rear tyre feeling still there. seems like gotta go stealer
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      03-25-2020, 05:41 PM   #14
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can this be the issue?

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1602572

i only do the recalibration if i got chassis malfunction error after changing springs/coding to CS EDC, if there's no error then i wont do that.

but from my experience, if you want to code cs edc you have to recalibrate the edc sensors.
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      03-25-2020, 07:57 PM   #15
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Yes I believe so deli333... before I think you had a blown shock... now I think you should do the ICM recalibration because it seems like since you replaced the rear shocks the EDC is confused or something even though you donít have any errors... of course this is just an educated guess and Iím hoping this helps... the EDC is a very capable system and this is a relatively cheap and easy thing to try before you give up on it and/or dig for a deeper problem... is the ride still bad/unpredictable when coasting and only happening on throttle/under accel or is it all of the time? I only ask this because there are know issues with the rear diff bushings and axle seals that could be causing vibrations from the rear of the car but those would only be felt under load/throttle does that make sense?
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      03-25-2020, 11:49 PM   #16
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Thank you for the info,I am ordering cable and will try ISTA D.

It is very bad especially coasting but sometimes when throttling I feel like car losts the connection with the ground, especially rear left tyre which scares me. but this doesnt happen a lot. so i would say mainly when coasting. Also I was hitting like 450+ in sports display now it is barely 350
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      03-26-2020, 07:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deli333 View Post
whitstap

Thank you for the info,I am ordering cable and will try ISTA D.

It is very bad especially coasting but sometimes when throttling I feel like car losts the connection with the ground, especially rear left tyre which scares me. but this doesnt happen a lot. so i would say mainly when coasting. Also I was hitting like 450+ in sports display now it is barely 350
Yeah, I’m starting to think it’s something in the driveline as opposed to the rear shocks, but again just guessing... recalibrating the EDC won’t hurt and having ISTA D will be a good thing for diag purposes anyway... weird that it’s showing/making less power and is so unstable on top of that? Could it be that it’s so unstable you aren’t pulling all the way to redline/peak power rpm? Otherwise it could be a boost leak or maybe your intercooler has run dry but that wouldn’t cause the poor ride quality even if it’s misfiring w/ no codes... Be careful on your test drives of course as something may be failing... how many miles on your car? If you can put the car in the air and check the rear diff bushings, axles for play, axles for leaks, or the rear diff itself could have an issue... sorry for the wild goose chase but sounds like something is wrong in the rear for sure if you’re not having vibes in the steering wheel as well... these cars are pretty stout I’m sure once you solve the problem the car will drive great again be patient
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      03-27-2020, 07:23 AM   #18
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whitstap appreciate your help mate.

I agree, when I switch mods I can feel that suspension change state/height.
Like you said I won't floor again until this is sorted, everytime i throttle it scares me. I check for boost leaks but couldnt notice or hear any as I am expecting crack or failure. gonna replace them anyways after this corona shit.

and correct me if I am mistaken, when I didnt have this problem the car was super stiff in sport+ and sport. it was bumpy in comfort mode. my friends made me paranoid, they say it is normal to have such jumps in sport + but it was the other way around. anyways, 75k miles car btw. fully decatted, mpe, single mid pipe, decat down pipes, intakes. no tune previously or now. for the current height you can check the photo.

I did some more testing yesterday.
sport plus engine / sport plus suspension / sport plus steering = full floor 350~ horse power 4th gear
efficient engine / comfort suspension / comfort steering = full floor around 470~bhp, almost the end of display 4th gear

isnt this weird?

https://i.ibb.co/bHQqtpp/20200324-115614.jpg
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      03-27-2020, 08:49 AM   #19
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Ride height doesnít look too low to me and yes lowered f8x on springs generally ride best in sport/sport+ and ride worse in comfort as there is not enough damping to control the springs/bumpstops... also very strange that car is making full power in efficient and not sport+ throttle, while itís not supposed to limit power/boost at wot in any mode it shouldnít make less in sport+ usually a bit more from cooler temps and over-boost... I would recommend getting some software (like bootmod3) you can buy a used license on the forum or get new with bundle/pack for ots tunes like cs/gts, the you can log it and see whatís going on and do a remote session with a custom tuner or send bm3 your logs for support... either that or just go to a shop near you do it... and lastly I will say that about 70k miles is when most people are reporting issues with axle seals and rear diff bushing cracks (some with even less miles) also primary 02 sensors can get lazy or fail completely (wonít always throw a code unless the banks are uneven) and spark plugs do need changing every 30k miles or so max... check your intercooler reservoir too thereís a lengthy thread about it... just giving you some of the basic items that can be issues on these cars overall they are great just some things to look for
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      03-27-2020, 04:44 PM   #20
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checked axle seals and rear diff bushings. all seems fine. replaced spark plugs 2 days before this problem started.

I did some further tests in the road, on the rumble strips.

1- sport plus: i dont or i hear very rarely noise
2- sport : same as sport plus
3- comfort : i feel it properly, hear the noise that i am going over them.

this should have been the opposite. I am 100% sure there is something wrong electronically about my suspensions.

pulled over by police again because of speeding. i couldnt tell him I am testing

Last edited by deli333; 03-27-2020 at 04:59 PM..
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      03-27-2020, 07:46 PM   #21
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Damn man sucks you got pulled over easy target Austin yellow, black, wing, :/
Hopefully itís the edc and once you recalibrate it will ride smooth... just out of curiosity what plugs did you use? Doubt itís the problem but there has been an issue with fake NGK on amazon but from what most people have said they wonít even do one clean pull
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      03-27-2020, 10:06 PM   #22
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they hide near care houses,my bad, should have guessed 😅I think sound triggers them and they make up the speed.
we got the bosch m plugs, same as factory ones i guess. btw been looking for right link for downloading ista d and right cable for it.
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