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      02-25-2024, 07:21 PM   #1
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Will removing the charcoal filter in the OEM intake fail Smog

Per the title,

Can anyone with experience removing the charcoal filters in their intakes let me know if they have passed smog?

Im getting codes P00BD and wondering if its because of the filter removal.
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      02-25-2024, 08:48 PM   #2
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My charcoal filters are out and I passed smog last week
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      02-26-2024, 01:34 AM   #3
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Thanks for the response.
Looks like my codes are from something else
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      02-26-2024, 10:57 AM   #4
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Did you recently remove the charcoal filters? Check your connections to the mass air flow sensors. Make sure they are connected tight and no bent wiring pins.
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      02-26-2024, 01:59 PM   #5
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No codes for removing charcoal filters. Def check your MAF connector.
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      02-26-2024, 04:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3 View Post
Did you recently remove the charcoal filters? Check your connections to the mass air flow sensors. Make sure they are connected tight and no bent wiring pins.
This was a while ago. Maybe 6 months? Appreciate your MAF comment. Will check.
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      02-26-2024, 04:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brody8877 View Post
No codes for removing charcoal filters. Def check your MAF connector.
Appreciate your response. Will check
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      02-26-2024, 05:05 PM   #8
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AlmondJayRoM3 brody8877
Checked both MAF sensors.
They looked fine and no bent prongs.
Not sure what else to check :/
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      02-27-2024, 09:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByeFelicia View Post
AlmondJayRoM3 brody8877
Checked both MAF sensors.
They looked fine and no bent prongs.
Not sure what else to check :/
Make sure all air intake connections are secure. Inspect the MAF sensors and make sure they are clean. You can even carefully clean them with electronics cleaner. Make sure they are completely dry before putting power through them.

If you have access to a scan tool you can look at both MAF sensor data pids and see how they respond to idle and changing revs. They should both be approx the same.
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      02-27-2024, 09:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3 View Post
Make sure all air intake connections are secure. Inspect the MAF sensors and make sure they are clean. You can even carefully clean them with electronics cleaner. Make sure they are completely dry before putting power through them.

If you have access to a scan tool you can look at both MAF sensor data pids and see how they respond to idle and changing revs. They should both be approx the same.
With the scan tool, I have a basic one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74...roduct_details

I have bootmod3 too.

Do you think I can check that MAF sensor data via those 2 things I have?
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      02-27-2024, 02:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByeFelicia View Post
With the scan tool, I have a basic one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74...roduct_details

I have bootmod3 too.

Do you think I can check that MAF sensor data via those 2 things I have?
If it can read live data/ freeze frame, it should read the MAF sensor data.

I say double check your installation/ removal process, make sure all connection is secured. I believe an intake leak will cause MAF reading issue.

The charcoal filter should not cause issue with the MAF. Mine has been removed over a year.
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      02-27-2024, 02:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brody8877 View Post
If it can read live data/ freeze frame, it should read the MAF sensor data.

I say double check your installation/ removal process, make sure all connection is secured. I believe an intake leak will cause MAF reading issue.

The charcoal filter should not cause issue with the MAF. Mine has been removed over a year.
I am also considering a failure/crack of my charge pipes. They are still OEM and ive been on stage 2 for a while.

I'll see if I can find the MAF sensor data later on.
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      02-29-2024, 04:20 PM   #13
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You need to go back to Stock mapping and drive for 50+ miles otherwise you will continue to fail inspection with a tune
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      02-29-2024, 05:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfresh View Post
You need to go back to Stock mapping and drive for 50+ miles otherwise you will continue to fail inspection with a tune
Already done. Relocked DME and driven 200+ miles already at various speeds.

I think I have a cracked chargepipe
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      03-01-2024, 12:31 AM   #15
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I just swapped my setup yesterday for my first SMOG.
Will get it done over the weekend. Ill report back how mine goes. No charcoal filter and not swapping them based on this thread. BM3 that will be detuned. Ill add one more data point.
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Last edited by Driver407; 03-01-2024 at 12:37 AM..
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      03-01-2024, 01:47 AM   #16
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Just passed smog today in California, took all the mods off and Flashback to Stock and left the aftermarket charge cooler as it’s legal in California To have an aftermarket intercooler if you read the smog technician book, it gives you a list of modifications that need an OE number, only diesels need an OE number for aftermarket intercooler. If you have Aftermarket charge pipes that’s illegal. Also catch cans are legal as long as they’re routed back in to the stock system. check with your smog technician first because some people don’t want to touch modified cars.
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      03-01-2024, 10:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdog86 View Post
Just passed smog today in California, took all the mods off and Flashback to Stock and left the aftermarket charge cooler as it’s legal in California To have an aftermarket intercooler if you read the smog technician book, it gives you a list of modifications that need an OE number, only diesels need an OE number for aftermarket intercooler. If you have Aftermarket charge pipes that’s illegal. Also catch cans are legal as long as they’re routed back in to the stock system. check with your smog technician first because some people don’t want to touch modified cars.
hmmmm you think they could tell with some of the discreetly designed ones like VSRF.

Im pulling codes which I believe is related to the OEM charge pipes perhaps being cracked....

Im wondering how they'd know the difference.
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      03-01-2024, 10:30 AM   #18
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Also can you note which station you went to so I can avoid it lol.
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      03-01-2024, 10:54 AM   #19
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I would never buy The VSRF charge pipes, that’s my opinion due to them being metal and shiny and transmit heat more into the charg air also the smog technician would probably notice that. I do have some silicone charge pipes that I ended up taking a 3M scuffing pad for paint and making I look more OEM And using the OEM hardware, so some ugly ass worm clamps that most places supply you with or bulky T bolt clamps. I still swap them the OEM ones to smog just cause I didn’t want any problems. I went to a place down the street from the Fremont DMV in California.
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      03-01-2024, 12:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdog86 View Post
I would never buy The VSRF charge pipes, that’s my opinion due to them being metal and shiny and transmit heat more into the charg air also the smog technician would probably notice that. I do have some silicone charge pipes that I ended up taking a 3M scuffing pad for paint and making I look more OEM And using the OEM hardware, so some ugly ass worm clamps that most places supply you with or bulky T bolt clamps. I still swap them the OEM ones to smog just cause I didn’t want any problems. I went to a place down the street from the Fremont DMV in California.

VSRF is crinkle black finish and looks "similar" to OEM




OEM


I kinda doubt a tech will notice unless you keep the stupid logos positioned to show.
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      03-01-2024, 12:41 PM   #21
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I’m pretty sure they would know, especially with those huge T bolt clamps, no car manufacturer uses T bolt clamps It’s always some form of worm clamps. Also, Car manufacturers don’t use wrinkle black on anything it’s either Smooth plastic, painted metal or bare aluminum. Also, when you look at the couplers, they’re nice and shiny rubber and OEM rubber is not nice and shiny usually kind of dull and dry looking. If you think it’s your charge pipes, pull your charge pipes it’s only about 10 minutes worth of work or 30 minutes if you haven’t done it before and inspect them, the gaskets go bad from the turbo to the charge pipe and the charge pipes break at certain areas were there Heat bonded together or were the tabs mount to the head for stability. Sounds like either a mass airflow sensor problem or there’s a leak in your system. Somewhere in your charge area, There’s two maf airflow sensors and maybe swapping them you might get a different Code And that would tell you that one of your sensors is bad. Have you done any recent work on the charge system at all? Because maybe you left something loose
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      03-01-2024, 02:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdog86 View Post
I’m pretty sure they would know, especially with those huge T bolt clamps, no car manufacturer uses T bolt clamps It’s always some form of worm clamps. Also, Car manufacturers don’t use wrinkle black on anything it’s either Smooth plastic, painted metal or bare aluminum. Also, when you look at the couplers, they’re nice and shiny rubber and OEM rubber is not nice and shiny usually kind of dull and dry looking. If you think it’s your charge pipes, pull your charge pipes it’s only about 10 minutes worth of work or 30 minutes if you haven’t done it before and inspect them, the gaskets go bad from the turbo to the charge pipe and the charge pipes break at certain areas were there Heat bonded together or were the tabs mount to the head for stability. Sounds like either a mass airflow sensor problem or there’s a leak in your system. Somewhere in your charge area, There’s two maf airflow sensors and maybe swapping them you might get a different Code And that would tell you that one of your sensors is bad. Have you done any recent work on the charge system at all? Because maybe you left something loose
My only caveat is I don't have the means/tools to go in there and look. Did plugs a year ago with a friend/tools and thats when it began. So yeah I think somethings loose or it's cracked.
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