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      10-06-2016, 04:12 PM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Just curious, are you planning to switch over to water?
We will for next season - we still have a lot of work to do up front and we'll probably be opening up the systems some more before next season. But for now, it's cost effective to get a gallon of BMW coolant and some distilled water.
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      10-08-2016, 10:27 PM   #288
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Craig took the A/C Radiator out


Here's what the oil cooler / radiator area looks like with a little more room in it


Got to clean up the wiring on the inside of the right rear. Notice the cover (made of silver wrap material) where the battery vent was. That's to keep dirt and dust from flying in from the rear wheels. By using silver, it kind of blends in with the gray chassis.


At Laguna Seca, the rear suspension compresses so much, the tire ground through the fuel neck.


To replace the fuel neck, we needed to lower the right side of the rear sub-frame. We definitely don't want to be doing that very often.
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      10-09-2016, 09:09 PM   #289
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Are you going to use a fuel cell, or put a metal protective shield over the OEM filler neck?
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      10-10-2016, 12:55 AM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakleyguy View Post
Are you going to use a fuel cell, or put a metal protective shield over the OEM filler neck?
We're going to try a number of things before we resort to a fuel cell:
1) re-shape the pipe where the rubbing occurs
2) raise the ride height a littel
3) leave the full fender liner in place
4) put some type of metal protection
5) put larger spacers on the rear wheels
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      10-23-2016, 09:06 PM   #291
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After all the wiring removal, it was time to start buttoning things back up. You can compare to pics back in post #186 and 169. Here's the right rear again:


Left rear again


Passenger side mid-car


Passenger side mid-car closer view
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      10-23-2016, 09:26 PM   #292
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How about upgrading the front brakes with some 6-pot calipers. Hard anodized finish from RacingBrake.com and steel braided lines


The new RB calipers uses a very common pad pattern that most pad vendors will make in racing compounds


Install over OEM replacement rotor


Fits easily over Apex Race Parts EC-7 18" wheel (and will fit over a lot of ARC-8 18" wheels depending on offset and spacing)
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      10-24-2016, 11:49 PM   #293
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This will help compare the amount of original wiring to the amount that is remaining. Imagine this kind of reduction all over the car.

Right rear wiring before


Right rear wiring after
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      10-30-2016, 01:11 PM   #294
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Could you show some pics of the routing of the brake ducts from the wheel well into the grills in front of the accessory radiators please. Trying to make a set up similar. What are you mounting the ducts into the grill with? Thanks in advance
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      11-06-2016, 10:59 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dweezil View Post
Could you show some pics of the routing of the brake ducts from the wheel well into the grills in front of the accessory radiators please. Trying to make a set up similar. What are you mounting the ducts into the grill with? Thanks in advance
Here you go. We go off of the OEM dust plate with our hose adapter welded to it, leave hose length to turn the wheel and tie wrap to the front sub-frame.


We scrunch the hose to an oval shape as it goes under the cooler and fits above the undertray.

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      11-06-2016, 11:01 PM   #296
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Off we go to Thunderhill next weekend. Car seems to be running fine after all the work and wire removal. New driver's side door.
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      11-06-2016, 11:15 PM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
Off we go to Thunderhill next weekend. Car seems to be running fine after all the work and wire removal. New driver's side door.
Looking great! Glad you seem to have figured out the wiring issues.

You guys racing the 5 mile loop? I hear the back (newer part) was redone recently and flows better with the front half... Last time I drove the 5 mile road course, it was like going between two different tracks every lap.
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      11-07-2016, 01:27 AM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Looking great! Glad you seem to have figured out the wiring issues.

You guys racing the 5 mile loop? I hear the back (newer part) was redone recently and flows better with the front half... Last time I drove the 5 mile road course, it was like going between two different tracks every lap.
I don't know which circuit. Yeah, when we did the 5 mile before, the West part seemed more suited to go karts and motorcycles.
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      11-12-2016, 03:05 PM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
How about upgrading the front brakes with some 6-pot calipers. Hard anodized finish from RacingBrake.com and steel braided lines


The new RB calipers uses a very common pad pattern that most pad vendors will make in racing compounds


Install over OEM replacement rotor


Fits easily over Apex Race Parts EC-7 18" wheel (and will fit over a lot of ARC-8 18" wheels depending on offset and spacing)
What size MSI stud bolts did you use in your race car? Thanks.
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      11-12-2016, 05:54 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
How about upgrading the front brakes with some 6-pot calipers. Hard anodized finish from RacingBrake.com and steel braided lines


The new RB calipers uses a very common pad pattern that most pad vendors will make in racing compounds


Install over OEM replacement rotor


Fits easily over Apex Race Parts EC-7 18" wheel (and will fit over a lot of ARC-8 18" wheels depending on offset and spacing)
Spacers on a race car? Just wondering why? Quicker on/off without dealing with the hub-centric mounting?
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      11-12-2016, 10:35 PM   #301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
That's the big question - what would cause that in the charge cooler?
My guess Someone added the wrong type of coolant somewhere during the cars history.
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      11-14-2016, 09:30 PM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobe92 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
How about upgrading the front brakes with some 6-pot calipers. Hard anodized finish from RacingBrake.com and steel braided lines


The new RB calipers uses a very common pad pattern that most pad vendors will make in racing compounds


Install over OEM replacement rotor


Fits easily over Apex Race Parts EC-7 18" wheel (and will fit over a lot of ARC-8 18" wheels depending on offset and spacing)
What size MSI stud bolts did you use in your race car? Thanks.
And are those 19mm nuts?
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...ace-wheel-nut/
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      11-14-2016, 10:11 PM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitchinManWheels View Post
Yes (or 3/4")
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      11-14-2016, 10:13 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobe92 View Post
What size MSI stud bolts did you use in your race car? Thanks.
They are the 14mm x 1.25 thread into the hub and standard 14x1.5 thread for the lug nuts. I think they are the 75mm length.
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      11-14-2016, 10:16 PM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitchinManWheels View Post
Spacers on a race car? Just wondering why? Quicker on/off without dealing with the hub-centric mounting?
Spacers help get the wheel/tire where you want it in relation to the fender opening and the suspension. When going up to wider wheels, it is not uncommon to need spacers to get the wheel to clear the front strut. Also, using different sized spacers front/rear, you can adjust the front to rear track a little.
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      11-14-2016, 10:17 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesurfer View Post
My guess Someone added the wrong type of coolant somewhere during the cars history.
That's what we're thinking. The main radiator coolant was lime green.
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      11-14-2016, 11:46 PM   #307
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Not too bad for some on the fly fabrication at the track. Take a big piece of Alumilite and make a front splitter.



A little lawn mower action
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      11-16-2016, 03:16 PM   #308
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Thunderhill track pics are in this album:
https://www.facebook.com/26857413333...81087568747225

One of the nice shots from the race weekend at Thunderhill
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