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09-27-2021, 03:19 PM | #1 |
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I'm currently at the track and my suspension got really loud and received error code
Hey everyone I'm currently at a track day and during my third session, my front suspension just got really loud and then a couple minutes later I got an error on the idrive saying "chassis function restricted. Drive moderately. Consult service center." I put on vorshlag camber plates last week and when I stopped I noticed the left suspension (EDC?) sensor was unplugged. However, it doesn't want to plug back in. If I push it in, it can just be lifted right back out. Even if it does stay in, would that make my suspension back to normal (quieter?).
Thanks for any help! Cody |
09-27-2021, 03:47 PM | #2 |
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Small update. Somebody at the track was able to get the EDC sensor plug back in so now the error is gone and my suspension settings are working again but the suspension is still very loud. It's like it is hitting the bump stop on every single small bump even at slow speeds driving around the paddock.
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09-27-2021, 03:54 PM | #3 |
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I just replaced my EDC cables but was driving around with them unplugged for 2 weeks. My understanding is that when this happens, the suspension defaults to its stiffest possible setting - stiffer than even sport plus. It isn't advised to drive the car around in this state for too long as it'll wear out the dampers at a faster rate. In this state you will feel every undulation in the road and even little bumps or inconsistent road surfaces can be very loud and hit very hard.
What do you mean by the suspension is very loud? Also you need to be careful when you push the EDC cables in and make sure the pins line up. Once they're in, they won't just fall out unless the tip gets broken off.
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09-27-2021, 04:20 PM | #4 | |
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09-27-2021, 05:03 PM | #5 |
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When I say tip I mean the end end that connects with the pins (pic below). My cables snapped at that part, and the tip was left stuck in the top of the damper while the rest of the cable was free on its own. I replaced them by buying 2 new ones, fishing out the old tips out, and connecting the new cables. Once you reconnect you cable, the suspension should work as intended. If you still hear and more importantly, feel, suspension harshness, you may want to try reconnecting them again.
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09-27-2021, 05:15 PM | #6 |
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Correct edc shocks go full closed (stiffest) damping when a plug is disconnected (0.0 volts) but is fine to drive as much as you like it won’t damage anything it will just be passive and max stiff alll the time... however it should not make the suspension louder or increase nvh it sounds (no pun intended) like something broke or came loose in the front suspension... check everything over and if everything is tight and in-tact maybe the damper failed and is bottoming out really easily... good luck
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09-27-2021, 05:21 PM | #7 |
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Regarding the "loudness", are you sure that when the plates were installed the top nut was tightened sufficiently? The Vorshlag people make a big point of using an impact to ensure that is the case. If that's loose you could be getting some play (noise) there.
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09-27-2021, 05:32 PM | #8 | |
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09-27-2021, 05:34 PM | #9 | |
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09-27-2021, 05:38 PM | #10 |
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I'd like to think they're tight. My friend and I did it the "correct" way using a strut nut socket. (since it seems to be common info to never use an impact to tighten those bolts (except per vorshlag))
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09-27-2021, 05:54 PM | #11 | |
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Anytime a damper is at max stiffness, it will always increase NVH. Just going from comfort to sport plus increases NVH, let alone a passive state damper at max stiffness. After living with the active dampers in passive state (which are much stiffer than the passive dampers on non-EDC cars), I can tell you there is a MASSIVE difference once you plug EDC back in. I literally just plugged them back in 2 nights ago... so the experience is very fresh in my mind. Having said that, if your cables are properly connected and you are still hearing/feeling more than you should relative to the suspension setting, I would physically check your suspension to make sure nothing is loose or broken. If you hear popping I would also check the bearing in the camber plate, as those can fail and develop "slop" which leads to a popping noise... see my vids below. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eeUIs-4EF8o https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YKef6...?feature=share
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09-27-2021, 09:21 PM | #12 |
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I would double check as the vorshlag nuts can loosen up when not tightened with an impact. This was the main reason I decided to go with ground control instead. If you are hearing loud clunking that is not normal, it's likely something is loose. A stiff suspension won't make significantly more noise, just a little more.
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09-27-2021, 09:53 PM | #13 | |
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I had the same issue recently. Installed Millway camber plates with high negative camber.
here's a copy and paste from my other thread: Quote:
I also noticed that it was much easier to just lift the plug from the strut than before and that's for both side. |
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09-29-2021, 09:43 PM | #14 |
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Sorry for not updating this earlier.
The top nut of the vorshlag camber plates completely came off on the left side!! At the track it must've only been backed off a little bit which is why it was tight by hand (I didn't have the appropriate tools with me) and why the EDC cable couldn't plug in properly. I've tightened it properly again and hopefully it sticks. I've got autocross this weekend so if it backs out again I'll try loctite first. If it still backs out maybe I'll use an impact. |
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