▀▄ eas | VTT "SplineLock" CrankHub Installation Overview for S55

[yjypm]

Originally Posted by M4trix

Yeah I'm thinking the same. It's interesting, one guy on M4 FB group stated he was quoted 3K for parts and labor by MaxPSI. Not sure how credible that is as when I called MaxPSI, they quoted me $4200. And this is actually something I tried to get an answer here with no success on why would VTT solution be that much quicker to install. Drilling doesn't add extra 15-20hrs, so I'm not surprised when EAS posted their installation estimates.

I got quoted for $3200 for parts and labor for maxpsi solution here in SoCal.

[avex8]

Originally Posted by yjypm

I got quoted for $3200 for parts and labor for maxpsi solution here in SoCal.

$3600 for gintani and 3200 for maxpsi. VTT cost almost the same with labor and parts, why risk it with VTT when there are 2 good solution out there already. I don't see any advantage using VTT. Everyone was excited and interested because we thought the overall cost will cut half which is not the case here.

[///BMW Junkie]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Worst case scenario would be losing an engine due to a SPH, being much more costly ($21K, not including labor at time of posting). Keyway-based solutions would be closer to ~30 hours, and requires drilling.

In comparison, it's a small price to pay for peace of mind.

So why exactly ~10 more hours for other solutions? Is it just because they require drilling, or is there something else involved in the process that differs compared to when installing the VTT kit?

[NickyC]

Thanks for the fix and helping the community. With the high price however, anybody remaining stock and likely only keeping their cars for 2-3 years once the original warranty runs out should think about an extended BMW warranty for a couple thousand dollars more. That way everything is protected.

[///BMW Junkie]

Originally Posted by NickyC

Thanks for the fix and helping the community. With the high price however, anybody remaining stock and likely only keeping their cars for 2-3 years once the original warranty runs out should think about an extended BMW warranty for a couple thousand dollars more. That way everything is protected.

Agreed but then tuning is not really an option. I'd assume most owners that are looking at crank hub upgrades are not stock or wanting to tune.

[sdstatestud88]

Originally Posted by M4trix

Agreed but then tuning is not really an option. I'd assume most owners that are looking at crank hub upgrades are not stock or wanting to tune.

Agreed

[coldsteelrain]

So I just got an email from Vargas and they did confirm that this install takes no more than 10 hours and they can't control what other shops charge but if you go to their shop that's what they will charge for install. I asked them to review the install process that was done by EAS and see where the discrepancy in time install is or how they do it differently
Waiting on their response

[sdstatestud88]

Originally Posted by coldsteelrain

So I just got an email from Vargas and they did confirm that this install takes no more than 10 hours and they can't control what other shops charge but if you go to their shop that's what they will charge for install. I asked them to review the install process that was done by EAS and see where the discrepancy in time install is or how they do it differently
Waiting on their response

Either EAS added precautionary steps and VTT cut some out, as I know EAS isn't one to blatantly overcharge like that.

My local shop in Arizona also quoted 22hours and they have done many engine builds on the s55 and very familiar with engine.

[coldsteelrain]

I got a response from Tony which was very nice of him

You do NOT have to drop the oil pan to do this upgrade. Simply remove the valve cover, loosen the tensioner, remove the vanos pulleys, and the chain drops down enough to install the new hub. You do NOT have to change the oil sprocket if the hub has not spun yet, it is not required. You can if you wish, and we recommend it if you think your hub has slipped, but it is not required.


As I said I believe EAS may have taken 20 hours, and the install is very thorough, but not all those steps are always required.

Thank you!
VTT

[Mmvic]

We are very fortunate to have a shop like this take the time to document and post about the install. thanks eas.

Breaking open a perfectly fine engine is a hard pill to swallow. going back to the question is this really a problem?!? if some spin with factory hp and others don't with stage 2 tunes wouldn't the logical answer be that it's a factory build issue?
I understand doubling the HP from factory potentially causing it regardless of production error (or w/e) b/c of the design...

[blockdoc]

Originally Posted by coldsteelrain

I got a response from Tony which was very nice of him

You do NOT have to drop the oil pan to do this upgrade. Simply remove the valve cover, loosen the tensioner, remove the vanos pulleys, and the chain drops down enough to install the new hub. You do NOT have to change the oil sprocket if the hub has not spun yet, it is not required. You can if you wish, and we recommend it if you think your hub has slipped, but it is not required.


As I said I believe EAS may have taken 20 hours, and the install is very thorough, but not all those steps are always required.

Thank you!
VTT

That's great information. Thanks for sharing!!

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by coldsteelrain

I got a response from Tony which was very nice of him

You do NOT have to drop the oil pan to do this upgrade. Simply remove the valve cover, loosen the tensioner, remove the vanos pulleys, and the chain drops down enough to install the new hub. You do NOT have to change the oil sprocket if the hub has not spun yet, it is not required. You can if you wish, and we recommend it if you think your hub has slipped, but it is not required.

As I said I believe EAS may have taken 20 hours, and the install is very thorough, but not all those steps are always required.

Thank you!
VTT

We thought about going this route - but since it was first install for the VTT kit, we followed the same exact steps BMW does when changing the crank hub. Obviously, doing more installs will eventually streamline the process. There is no need to touch the oil pan, we didn't on this install.

Omitting the oil pump sprocket would same some labor, it's best to change the complete assembly and not have any worries down the road - it simply depends on your level of peace of mind.

[M-Pilot]

Originally Posted by M4trix

Agreed but then tuning is not really an option. I'd assume most owners that are looking at crank hub upgrades are not stock or wanting to tune.

Exactly! Only reason I really want the piece of mind is so that I can tune. If I'm keeping it stock, no way I'm gonna spend 3-4K for a preventative solution. That's what the warranty is for. I'm probably gonna sell the car once the warranty is over anyway.

[M-Pilot]

Originally Posted by unleashed

Non tuned car = No fun car

I agree 100%. However, even though the SCH rate might be pretty low overall, seeing quite a few threads/posts on SCH in the past couple months made me even more uncomfortable. I really don't want to face that $20K+ bill for a new engine one day. I'll probably do the fix at some point and then go for the tune.

[yjypm]

Originally Posted by cntzl

I agree 100%. However, even though the SCH rate might be pretty low overall, seeing quite a few threads/posts on SCH in the past couple months made me even more uncomfortable. I really don't want to face that $20K+ bill for a new engine one day. I'll probably do the fix at some point and then go for the tune.

If that worry affects your fun with your car you should definitely do the fix. I am driving my f80 like a grandma as much as possible to prevent SCH.

[avex8]

Originally Posted by yjypm

If that worry affects your fun with your car you should definitely do the fix. I am driving my f80 like a grandma as much as possible to prevent SCH.

Word. With the E85 tune I only drive it once a week lol. I'll probably go with the gintani fix

[yjypm]

Originally Posted by avex8

Word. With the E85 tune I only drive it once a week lol. I'll probably go with the gintani fix

Right. I'm e85 tuned too. Whenever I need the powerrr I just shift manually and avoid kicking down in all circumstances. I regret getting dct so bad now.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

We thought about going this route - but since it was first install for the VTT kit, we followed the same exact steps BMW does when changing the crank hub. Obviously, doing more installs will eventually streamline the process. There is no need to touch the oil pan, we didn't on this install.

Omitting the oil pump sprocket would same some labor, it's best to change the complete assembly and not have any worries down the road - it simply depends on your level of peace of mind.

Thank you for the info.

If I could ask, going by book hours, it shows 10 hours to replace a timing chain (clearly higher than VTT’s 6-8 hours post).

What over and above this is needed that contribute to the additional 10 hours?

[milk242]

I use kick down as much as possible just to see if the hub will spin. If it does, I can only hope it spins slightly before damage to the valves/piston heads. At that point, I'll replace my hub. The kick downs give me a smile. These aftermarket hubs might address the problem, but still skeptical on the root cause.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Thank you for the info.

If I could ask, going by book hours, it shows 10 hours to replace a timing chain (clearly higher than VTT’s 6-8 hours post).

What over and above this is needed that contribute to the additional 10 hours?

Book time is 15 hours for timing chain.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Book time is 15 hours for timing chain.

Guess we have different books, lol.

Regardless, as that explains 15 hours, where does the extra 5 hours come into play?

[overlook637]

Originally Posted by NickyC

Thanks for the fix and helping the community. With the high price however, anybody remaining stock and likely only keeping their cars for 2-3 years once the original warranty runs out should think about an extended BMW warranty for a couple thousand dollars more. That way everything is protected.

Warranty does't protect you from a ruined family vacation or being late to a important company meeting.

3 days into a mountain vacation, 140 miles from a dealership, and 60 miles from nearest rental car....

Warranty also does not cover the pure hassle of dealing with getting the broke car to the dealership, picking the car back up from the dealership, or any items the dealership jacks up during the comprehensive repair of a damaged engine.