Re-torque titanium lugs hot or cold during track day

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by adc

I use a 100 ft-lbs (white) torque limiter to install my OEM bolts with an impact wrench. Then finish them off with the torque wrench. (I’ve never had an over tighten situation so far).

I know the post is about studs and lugs, but is there any difference? Or perhaps I’m doing it wrong?

You didn't mention what you set your lug bolts to with your torque wrench.

BMW switched from 12mm x 1.5 lug bolts to 14mm x 1.25 lug bolts with the F30/80 platform (and maybe others). I've had a stud conversion kit installed for about 2.5 years, but IIRC, the BMW recommended torque spec for the F80/F82 is 105 lb./ft. Prior model recommendation was 88 lb./ft.

Stud kit manufacturers recommend lower settings for torque. Here's what APEX says about their stud kits:

"10. Final torque recommendations for each nut is 85 ft/lbs for a street car & a maximum of 90 ft/lbs for track use. See
the FAQ below for why we don’t recommend factory torque specs.

Q: Why don’t you recommend factory torque specs?
A: Studs experience different loads than OEM bolts during installation. The difference is that a bolt is rotated into its threads
in order to engage and secure it into place while torquing the wheel to the hub. This process creates both a twisting force
and vertical clamping force. On the other hand, studs are already engaged into the hub and therefore do not require the
same torque to compensate for friction while threading into the hub. Final torque on your wrench is achieve with less
resistance and, therefore less torque is required to achieve the same clamping load."