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      12-12-2019, 02:03 PM   #45
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Its the rear thats giving me problems, the fronts are fine. I dont think you can get the heat shield off without taking the hubs off. I'll take a look though, that would make life easier.
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      12-12-2019, 02:04 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
instead of trimming the rear shield you can just remove it altogether. It is held on with a few bolts.
That way you can leave the car 100% stock when the time comes to sell.

For the fronts it's just like the E9X: the part of the dust shield that is in your way can be removed with easily accessible bolts
Its the rear thats giving me problems, the fronts are fine. I dont think you can get the heat shield off without taking the hubs off. I'll take a look though, that would make life easier.
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      12-12-2019, 02:28 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
instead of trimming the rear shield you can just remove it altogether. It is held on with a few bolts.
That way you can leave the car 100% stock when the time comes to sell.

For the fronts it's just like the E9X: the part of the dust shield that is in your way can be removed with easily accessible bolts

This is what Apex recommended to me, removing both dust shield front and rear ( although haven’t done rear yet)
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      12-12-2019, 03:28 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
Its the rear thats giving me problems, the fronts are fine. I dont think you can get the heat shield off without taking the hubs off. I'll take a look though, that would make life easier.
I did it on my CS. I had to remove the rear rotor to access it. No need to remove the hubs

It was really nice. In my E46 and E9X M3s I had cut the rear shield off and it looks ugly
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      12-12-2019, 03:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
Its the rear thats giving me problems, the fronts are fine. I dont think you can get the heat shield off without taking the hubs off. I'll take a look though, that would make life easier.
I did it on my CS. I had to remove the rear rotor to access it. No need to remove the hubs

It was really nice. In my E46 and E9X M3s I had cut the rear shield off and it looks ugly
Oh heck yeah. That made my day!

Update: the rear dust shields on the CS must be different. The dust shields on the GTS have a small joiner piece at the front so you can't just unbolt them. Fortunately, you can loosen the four bolts holding it and the rear parking brake shoes, and pull the whole assembly out far enough to get some slim snips in there to cut the top and bottom of the joining piece of the dust shields so you can remove it. The it all bolts up without issue and just requires a quick check to make sure the e-brake is in spec. 👍
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      12-13-2019, 07:04 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
Oh heck yeah. That made my day!

Update: the rear dust shields on the CS must be different. The dust shields on the GTS have a small joiner piece at the front so you can't just unbolt them. Fortunately, you can loosen the four bolts holding it and the rear parking brake shoes, and pull the whole assembly out far enough to get some slim snips in there to cut the top and bottom of the joining piece of the dust shields so you can remove it. The it all bolts up without issue and just requires a quick check to make sure the e-brake is in spec. 👍
I was wondering if the CCB and iron rotors used different dust shields
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      12-13-2019, 06:13 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
Oh heck yeah. That made my day!

Update: the rear dust shields on the CS must be different. The dust shields on the GTS have a small joiner piece at the front so you can't just unbolt them. Fortunately, you can loosen the four bolts holding it and the rear parking brake shoes, and pull the whole assembly out far enough to get some slim snips in there to cut the top and bottom of the joining piece of the dust shields so you can remove it. The it all bolts up without issue and just requires a quick check to make sure the e-brake is in spec. 👍
I was wondering if the CCB and iron rotors used different dust shields
It looks that way. The wheels won't even clear the front dust shields. But I eventually got it all done and my car now has 18's on it as well.
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      12-14-2019, 06:51 PM   #52
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It looks that way. The wheels won't even clear the front dust shields. But I eventually got it all done and my car now has 18's on it as well.
Nice!

Camber plates too? And which tire did you go with on the 18s?

Might try and get back out to chuckwalla next weekend, 21st and/or 22nd. Can’t believe how good the southern California winter is.
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      12-14-2019, 06:53 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
It looks that way. The wheels won't even clear the front dust shields. But I eventually got it all done and my car now has 18's on it as well.
Nice!

Camber plates too? And which tire did you go with on the 18s?

Might try and get back out to chuckwalla next weekend, 21st and/or 22nd. Can't believe how good the southern California winter is.
No camber plates yet. I'm running a 265/40 and 295/35 A052. I'd like to get back out but there's no sense in tracking before some more camber is dialed in. I don't have that kind of tire budget! Haha.
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      12-17-2019, 09:59 PM   #54
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Some pics....
I like the helmet in the right seat. Looks like M4 GTS colors!
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      12-21-2019, 01:18 AM   #55
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They fit. Hopefully it isn’t too cold this weekend at Road America
Nice!
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      05-17-2020, 09:09 PM   #56
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Bringing this back. OP, when you ran the NT01's did you have camber plates. I may give these a go but dont want to ruin a set of fronts with the stock camber. I'm currently running A052's and they worked really well considering I can only get 1.5 degrees in the front but they seem to have a really stiff sidewall and dont roll over too much. Do you think the Nt01s will work or is the sidewall too soft and I'll just destroy the outside shoulders straight away?
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      05-18-2020, 07:08 AM   #57
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Another option that worked well on my gts:

Bimmerworld TA5R
10.5/18 et 24 front
11/18 et 44 rear (5mm spacer but not required)

Camber plates, with 3.1 camber up front. Ride height at the factory "track" setting. Rear aprox 3/4in lower (measured at the fender lip) than "track" setting . (removed block collar)
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      05-18-2020, 09:38 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coryf View Post
Another option that worked well on my gts:

Bimmerworld TA5R
10.5/18 et 24 front
11/18 et 44 rear (5mm spacer but not required)

Camber plates, with 3.1 camber up front. Ride height at the factory "track" setting. Rear aprox 3/4in lower (measured at the fender lip) than "track" setting . (removed block collar)
Awesome! Good to know.

I'm not really worried about fitment though, I'm more worried about tire wear with the lack of camber in the front. I'm on the fence about getting camber plates or upgrading the springs and dampers themselves so haven't pulled the trigger on either but I still wanna get out and track. Any other insights would be greatly welcomed and appreciated.
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      05-18-2020, 12:19 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lienrocs View Post
Awesome! Good to know.

I'm not really worried about fitment though, I'm more worried about tire wear with the lack of camber in the front. I'm on the fence about getting camber plates or upgrading the springs and dampers themselves so haven't pulled the trigger on either but I still wanna get out and track. Any other insights would be greatly welcomed and appreciated.
Take this comment with the understanding that I don't know your budget, goals, or experience. This is biased by my budget/goals/experience.

Camber plates are stupid cheap, especially if you are interested/capable of installing them yourself. Unless you're turning some Sunday drive laps, you will shred your fronts. The tracking sub-forum is full of posts about this, it's as certain as death and taxes. BMW really screwed up, but you can correct this.

The stock KW coilovers are perfectly workable for HPDE and entry-level TT. Unless you're already capable of driving at 10/10ths, throwing $6k-$10k at an upgraded set of coilovers isn't going to get the best bang for your buck. Throw that money at camber plates, an alignment, and a pallet* of tires and stack of pads/rotors.

Seat time > *. Maximize seat time, minimize consumable costs, keep the car shiny side up.



* - I haven't checked to see what manufacturers are offering now, but in 2018 we negotiated a ~20% discount on 30 tires for the enduro car. Came on 3 pallets via UPS freight. I'm planning to test some tire compounds and try to settle on a 200tw and r-comp set, and bulk buy for 2020-2021.
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