08-03-2016, 12:50 PM | #23 |
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08-03-2016, 05:08 PM | #24 |
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I'm hoping to get down to the track for at least two full days at then end of next week. I'll report back on the new setup after that.
BTW - How is it that MORE rubber in the front (wider tires) would induce MORE understeer? What am I missing?
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08-03-2016, 06:43 PM | #26 | |
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The problem with this setup is that the S55 has so much low end torque, that I could not put all th power down coming out of corners. I had to be quite patient with the throttle. While the setup worked decently well, I could not take full advantage of the S55 explosive power. I've since switched to a staggered setup with 11" wide rear tires. This combo is fantastic.
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08-03-2016, 07:03 PM | #27 | |
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08-03-2016, 09:41 PM | #28 |
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The difference in grip can certainly be felt since the car is driven "at the limit" on track . I can get on the power much sooner with the 305.
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08-03-2016, 11:39 PM | #29 | |
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08-04-2016, 01:32 AM | #30 |
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Sorry OP, I don't want to as this is a 19" wheel thread.
Apex EC-7 18x10ET25 and 18x11ET44 (I kept the same front wheels).
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08-04-2016, 11:54 AM | #31 |
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Thanks for sharing your experiences guys! I'll plan to get 19 inch OZ HLT Ultraleggera in 9 and 10 inch and will put on PSC2 with 265 front and 295 rear. I'll have to choose a set up with TÜV approval as I have to drive to the tracks with the M4. Great Thread, and thanks again!
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08-15-2016, 01:46 PM | #32 |
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[UPDATE]
I went down to the track for a couple of days at the end of last week. Square setup is great. Wheels work well and I still really like the PSC2's. -2.7 degrees of camber now with 10 inch wide wheels all around. Car handles really well and I just completed a full "X" rotation when I got back from the track to balance wear (for next time). Turned in my best lap time on the south track, but that could be related to any number of changes: camber, wheels/tires, more track time, or a combination of all... 19x10 square setup is a win... Especially if it helps cut my track tire costs in half... Glad I made this change...
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08-26-2016, 12:21 PM | #34 |
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36-37 hot is what I'm running right now. ...and the the fronts are obviously hotter than the rears. Starting at about 30 front and 32 rear cold seems to get there pretty closely in the current ambient. I haven't started messing with those values yet...
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09-06-2016, 04:06 PM | #36 |
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I'm planning on going with that wheel setup as well, but Apex is currently out of stock on the 18"x11" rear wheels. Which tires/sizes are you running with that wheel setup?
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09-06-2016, 04:23 PM | #37 | |
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Hope this helps...
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09-06-2016, 04:24 PM | #38 |
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Did you READ the first post?
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09-06-2016, 05:46 PM | #39 | |
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09-07-2016, 11:24 AM | #40 |
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The wear indicators still have some life in them. That's why I wanted to pull one of the rotors off and weigh it. I chose the one which I expect would have the most wear...
Its not a secret that the CCB Rotors will wear much more quickly if you are actually "using" them. On the street, they will likely last the lifetime of the vehicle but at track temps they will start to "burn out" as they are used. (I actually once melted a lead wheel weight from the heat radiated by one of my CCB rotors...) ...anyway, the deciding factor is if you think the added cost is worth the extra performance. If steel (iron) and CCB were the same cost, there would be no debate. In my experience, the CCB's bite earlier, ramp up more linearly, never fade, don't scream like a banshee, and always respond predictably. They are also significantly lighter and don't produce iron brake dust. (The carbon dust just rinses off or blows off on its own) I like 'em. Once I figure out how often they will have to be replaced, then I can make a more informed decision if I think they are worth the added expense. Of course, that's also a pretty subjective consideration...
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09-07-2016, 01:15 PM | #41 | |
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appreciate the detailed response bro. I bought my M4 with CCB second hand and i know the previous owner tracked the car couple times prior. May be ill get them weigh to see how much life is left before i take it on the track. |
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09-07-2016, 04:41 PM | #42 |
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If you are going to track your car then you probably want to get one of the fronts weighed to see where you're at... If you are not going to track the car, then you can probably rest easy if the wear indicators still show some life...
$0.02
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09-07-2016, 06:17 PM | #43 |
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will do! as for weighing the rotor, is there a specific scale i need to use?
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09-08-2016, 09:54 AM | #44 |
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The min weight in grams is printed on each rotor. You would need a scale accurate to at least 1 gram (or .01 ounces if you are OK doing the conversion)...
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