DIY - Changing ambient light colors

[Dang3r]

Thats correct, the BMW 605 is the closest color to the OEM installed BMW orange (amber). Its even much more brighter than the factory installed ones.
Afaik there are no 100% match aftersale LEDs available and you have to deal with it - or leave it.

[Dang3r]

Well, well, well, today the next step were done, installing the new SMD LED's into the climate/radio cluster.
It took me around half a hour, but take this not as a competition to beat my time

Setup:
- Lower panel removed by inserting a pry tool at the top border and bend it slowly down, it snaps out at a certain point.
- Upper trim removed, pay special attention not just to pull it out, hence there are small noses at the outer part and you won't crack the accent trim.
I had decided to leave the panels into their place and no need to remove them entirely, there are other DIY's into the net available, where the disconnection of the receptacles of warning and door lock and the small heating wheel is explained, if the remaining parts are disturbing you.
Theres' no need to disconnect the cars battery, anyway, I had turned the main power off, because you can't avoid pressing the station buttons and change the radio stations randomly or whatever you have assigned.

You'll need - like at the former modification - a T20 torx bit to loosen the 4 red circled screws. Furthermore a small slotted screwdriver.

After removal of the climate/radio dash you'll find it wired at the upper right corner and down into the middle. I had just disconnected the down one, that has given me enough space to turn the dash for removing additionally the radio insert, its just snapped into the frame at 4 points top and 3 below. Don't try to press it just out, make your way at the top and apply small force onto the front surface to make the panel come out. When the last nose is lifted, it pops just out.

Now find the LED's installed into the frame at the top left and right corners, just follow the wires.
To extract the housing, bend down the red circled stud(s) and move the housing out of its rest. BE CAREFUL, the clear light transmitter comes out too and is absolutely not flexible. Ensure not to bend it too much, it will break without prewarning!
To disconnect the plug from the housing, you have to insert the slotted screwdriver at the lower side of the plug and bend gently back the small stud, which hold a stubby nose of the plug. It has cost me few minutes to solve this, because this wasn't clear visible
Now there are two options: The plug comes out with the LED on its end or the LED stucks inside of the housing. Both ways are causing no trouble, because its very easy to remove at both options.

Now insert the new LED's to the plugs and press them back into the housing.
Next put the housing back to its rest and insert it to let the stud resnap for hold it.
Now rearrange the wires as found before that the frame would sit tight and flat as before.
Depends on what you have removed / disconnected, I had to reconnect the lower plug and reinsert the radio part into the frame, just resnapped and thats it.
Move the recompleted dashpanel back to its origin position and start to insert the torx screws, tight them around.
Snap in the lower panel, obey the cable routing of the USB, that it will not bend behind.
Reinstall the top dashtrim, thats a bit tricky to feel the right position for the air ducts before pressing it back to its rest, you have to experience this, but use not too much force.

After you're done, enjoy.

[Ultimateone]

Awesome stuff

[Squibby1996]

Originally Posted by Dang3r

Well, well, well, today the next step were done, installing the new SMD LED's into the climate/radio cluster.
It took me around half a hour, but take this not as a competition to beat my time

Setup:
- Lower panel removed by inserting a pry tool at the top border and bend it slowly down, it snaps out at a certain point.
- Upper trim removed, pay special attention not just to pull it out, hence there are small noses at the outer part and you won't crack the accent trim.
I had decided to leave the panels into their place and no need to remove them entirely, there are other DIY's into the net available, where the disconnection of the receptacles of warning and door lock and the small heating wheel is explained, if the remaining parts are disturbing you.
Theres' no need to disconnect the cars battery, anyway, I had turned the main power off, because you can't avoid pressing the station buttons and change the radio stations randomly or whatever you have assigned.

You'll need - like at the former modification - a T20 torx bit to loosen the 4 red circled screws. Furthermore a small slotted screwdriver.

After removal of the climate/radio dash you'll find it wired at the upper right corner and down into the middle. I had just disconnected the down one, that has given me enough space to turn the dash for removing additionally the radio insert, its just snapped into the frame at 4 points top and 3 below. Don't try to press it just out, make your way at the top and apply small force onto the front surface to make the panel come out. When the last nose is lifted, it pops just out.

Now find the LED's installed into the frame at the top left and right corners, just follow the wires.
To extract the housing, bend down the red circled stud(s) and move the housing out of its rest. BE CAREFUL, the clear light transmitter comes out too and is absolutely not flexible. Ensure not to bend it too much, it will break without prewarning!
To disconnect the plug from the housing, you have to insert the slotted screwdriver at the lower side of the plug and bend gently back the small stud, which hold a stubby nose of the plug. It has cost me few minutes to solve this, because this wasn't clear visible
Now there are two options: The plug comes out with the LED on its end or the LED stucks inside of the housing. Both ways are causing no trouble, because its very easy to remove at both options.

Now insert the new LED's to the plugs and press them back into the housing.
Next put the housing back to its rest and insert it to let the stud resnap for hold it.
Now rearrange the wires as found before that the frame would sit tight and flat as before.
Depends on what you have removed / disconnected, I had to reconnect the lower plug and reinsert the radio part into the frame, just resnapped and thats it.
Move the recompleted dashpanel back to its origin position and start to insert the torx screws, tight them around.
Snap in the lower panel, obey the cable routing of the USB, that it will not bend behind.
Reinstall the top dashtrim, thats a bit tricky to feel the right position for the air ducts before pressing it back to its rest, you have to experience this, but use not too much force.

After you're done, enjoy.

I found the same with the climate panel plug the clips that hold the plug in is a bit of a pain to release

[N44RP]

If anyone wants a full set (6 LEDs) of orange/white they can have mine. $50 shipped

[Nick7700]

Originally Posted by N44RP

If anyone wants a full set (6 LEDs) of orange/white they can have mine. $50 shipped

I just sent you a pm.

[whyycharles]

Wait does this work for 15 f83? And is 1 order a set of 2?

[eff32fl]

Originally Posted by whyycharles

Wait does this work for 15 f83? And is 1 order a set of 2?

Yes this works for the pre LCI F83.

No each item only has one module included.

For a full conversion you need to order 4x door panel modules, 2x footwell modules. For LCI cars or if you have done the LCI radio panel conversion you also need 2x radio panel modules. For pre LCI cars you need an extra 1x door panel module for the cupholder LED (uses a door panel style module) since pre LCI cars don't have the radio panel that lights up.