S55 Spark Plug DIY

[MaX PL]

So photo 5 should have 3 or 4 bolts at the aluminum brace which are not present in the photo and you have not instructed to remove. Those obviously need to be removed to remove the brace.

Edit: Nvm. Those may possibly used with my camber plates.

[Ca_m4mike]

i have a 15 fa82 with intakes charge pipes and a bms stage 1 piggy back would stock plugs be fine or switch to the ngk, i just installed the bms unit and havent had problems with how the car runs yet

[Rsumma729]

Tried to do this service today and buttoned everything back up and I get a rough idle and it throws Drivetrain Malf and goes into limp. I gapped the ngk’s at .03, which is what my oems were. I’ve reseated and checked the coil packs are correctly in and wired. Anything else before I just pull the ngk’s and put the old plugs back in?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Rsumma729

Tried to do this service today and buttoned everything back up and I get a rough idle and it throws Drivetrain Malf and goes into limp. I gapped the ngk's at .03, which is what my oems were. I've reseated and checked the coil packs are correctly in and wired. Anything else before I just pull the ngk's and put the old plugs back in?

Where'd u get 0.030" from?
NGKs should be 0.021-23" gaps.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Ca_m4mike

i have a 15 fa82 with intakes charge pipes and a bms stage 1 piggy back would stock plugs be fine or switch to the ngk, i just installed the bms unit and havent had problems with how the car runs yet

Stage 1 and no probs then keep stockers in.
Next round of maint do NGKs at 0.023".

[Ca_m4mike]

thank you sir will do, crazy how good these cars respond

[BzsBimmer]

Originally Posted by Rsumma729

Tried to do this service today and buttoned everything back up and I get a rough idle and it throws Drivetrain Malf and goes into limp. I gapped the ngk’s at .03, which is what my oems were. I’ve reseated and checked the coil packs are correctly in and wired. Anything else before I just pull the ngk’s and put the old plugs back in?

Other than what TopJimmy stated
- check gap. Either you didn’t write it correctly or you gapped it incorrectly
- check plugs since you need to take them out. Make sure they are real NGK’s and check to see if you cracked the insulator
- when reinstalling, do not over torque and do not use anti-seize (use a good torque wrench
- check all your connections. Even if you have bad plugs, it should not throw a drivetrain error. That’s something else or you omitted some info to us.

[F80COMP]

thanks for the detailed write up, this is something i need to do in the near future

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by F80COMP

thanks for the detailed write up, this is something i need to do in the near future

Every 30K mi if stock, and every 15K if tuned, for plug changes. Only do coils if there's a problem with misfires or no spark.

[b16civic]

What’s the part numbers for spark plugs for NGK or Bosh ones

And best place to get it online?

[Kilabyte]

Originally Posted by b16civic

What’s the part numbers for spark plugs for NGK or Bosh ones

And best place to get it online?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...plug-ngk-96987

[Ryce]

What spark plug model number for NGK is for f80 M3?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Ryce

What spark plug model number for NGK is for f80 M3?

The D8S linked above you.

[2Times]

Great write-up... mostly posting so I can find this again
I just flashed BM3 stage1 flex tune, starting with e35. When the car is cold and starting up, it's a bit of a rough idle (not sure it's the e85 added) but did get a CEL: Misfire cyl 1, 4, 6. 40k miles on the car, I picked it up last week but don't know if the plugs were ever changed so I figure I'll give that a go.
I see the ones TopJimmy recommended to Ryce so I figure being stage1 also I'll give that a go.
Any different opinion if I'm going to be running e50 most of the time?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by 2Times

Great write-up... mostly posting so I can find this again
I just flashed BM3 stage1 flex tune, starting with e35. When the car is cold and starting up, it's a bit of a rough idle (not sure it's the e85 added) but did get a CEL: Misfire cyl 1, 4, 6. 40k miles on the car, I picked it up last week but don't know if the plugs were ever changed so I figure I'll give that a go.
I see the ones TopJimmy recommended to Ryce so I figure being stage1 also I'll give that a go.
Any different opinion if I'm going to be running e50 most of the time?

Gap 0.023 for most tunes, unless your tuner asks for different.

Stock plug gaps (0.028-32) are usually too wide and cause rough idle with higher E-mixes.

[iatacs19]

I followed this guide and changed my spark plugs and coils while I had everything removed. The install was tedious, but not difficult. Thank you for the detailed steps!

[TimmyM56]

This DIY guide was a partner for the Spark Plug change I did today on my M4, very well written and helpful for following along. I have a couple of pointers and tips for anyone reading and thinking about doing it;

- Have the right tools, especially organization trays. You have a take out a lot of bolts to even get to the coils and plugs, so organizing all of them is key for putting it all back together smoothly.

- Speaking of tools, if you take everything apart, get to the point of taking out the spark plugs and find out your spark plug tool isn't the right one. Don't fret, your local NAPA has a 14mm 12 point behind the counter, at least mine did to save the day.

- Give it a try and do the DIY. It's tedious to take off a bunch of braces to get to them, but it's really straightforward. The plugs themselves aren't that expensive, and you're saving a good amount of money getting your hands dirty. It's a good Saturday afternoon project.