Coding and flashing PSU and charger

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by GregSM3

Sorry not sure what ISTA+ procedures are?

ISTA+ is diagnostic software used at dealerships. There are various procedures program can run, including testing battery health.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

I am curious which CTEK model has PSU mode ???

My car with Ignition ON and with everything else OFF, draws 12-14Amps, during flashing and depending on the ECU, you can get an additional draw of up to 5-15Amps on the F8x. You can query IBS current draw using ISTA or tool32, or connect an accurate DC clamp ampmeter.

So your PSU w 7A while its almost useless, doesn't hurt to have it connected. And if you know your battery health, you can get away flashing without PSU for < 10mns even maybe longer. All these remote vendors subject their customers to that small risk. I personally only connect a PSU for flashing sessions greater than 10mns or if the battery isn't > 80%.

Thanks for the info, that's what I suspected. I have the CTEK Multi US 7002... have only ever used it as a trickle charger mostly in the winter on non-daily drivers, however I confirmed in the manual that it has a supply mode providing power at a constant 13.6V. I believe it's marketed as a maintenance mode, allowing you to provide power to the car to maintain settings and etc. while you charge the battery separately. Good call on ISTA... I haven't used it since programming my injectors, good to get some more use out of it!

[Deteria]

I used a CTEK Lithium Ion trickle charger on my car before flash, just to make sure battery is topped off. I flashed a few more times after that no issues.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by Deteria

I used a CTEK Lithium Ion trickle charger on my car before flash, just to make sure battery is topped off. I flashed a few more times after that no issues.

You flashed entire vehicle, including HU?

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by figure99

Thanks for the info, that's what I suspected. I have the CTEK Multi US 7002... have only ever used it as a trickle charger mostly in the winter on non-daily drivers, however I confirmed in the manual that it has a supply mode providing power at a constant 13.6V. I believe it's marketed as a maintenance mode, allowing you to provide power to the car to maintain settings and etc. while you charge the battery separately. Good call on ISTA... I haven't used it since programming my injectors, good to get some more use out of it!

I could swear I replied to this in my sticky thread and now its here : take note that it's unlikely you can use ISTA as you are flashing the car with Esys to query current usage!

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by Deteria

I used a CTEK Lithium Ion trickle charger on my car before flash, just to make sure battery is topped off. I flashed a few more times after that no issues.

Flash few more times without a PSU and you will beg Shawn to remotely connect and save your car

Most 4/5A LifePO4 chargers will deliver much less than few hundreds of mA depending on the battery state... you and other are safe because of the battery technology we have where it maintains stable voltage above 13V down to ~30-40% charge and our F8x platform does not seem as power hungry as previous ones...

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Flash few more times without a PSU and you will beg Shawn to remotely connect and save your car

Most 4/5A LifePO4 chargers will deliver much less than few hundreds of mA depending on the battery state... you and other are safe because of the battery technology we have where it maintains stable voltage above 13V down to ~30-40% charge and our F8x platform does not seem as power hungry as previous ones...

Correct, people are mistaking chargers (and battery maintaining devices) for power supplies.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

I could swear I replied to this in my sticky thread and now its here : take note that it's unlikely you can use ISTA as you are flashing the car with Esys to query current usage!

Sorry I wasn't clear. I know you obviously can not use ISTA while coding with esys. I meant use it to check how much current is being pulled while the ignition is on only... just for my own curiosity.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by figure99

Sorry I wasn't clear. I know you obviously can not use ISTA while coding with esys. I meant use it to check how much current is being pulled while the ignition is on only... just for my own curiosity.

For such a small query, why not use tool32, much lighter weight, but less user friendly.

If you want to use ISTA, you use "ECU call up functions" on DME, "Diagnosis" tab, select all the way down "IBS current", "read state".

And if you know how to use cmd on Windows, I can give you a small nifty way to send direct packets to our ECU's I've made a bunch for my own usage.

[alpina-527]

Strangely enough, BMW now recommend using the psu in charging mode, not power supply mode.

Also make sure not to go over 14volts. The battery will shut down at this voltage.

I always use charging mode at 13.6v and never have a problem.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by alpina-527

Strangely enough, BMW now recommend using the psu in charging mode, not power supply mode...

Where did you hear or read that ? Here, taken from ISTA encode/program ECUs rep doc. Although many refer to "charger", during programming voltage must not drop below 13V and ample current (> 10-30A) needs to be supplied.

If a "charger" can fullfil those requirements, then that's ok. Usually that is the role of a PSU, and that is the correct technical term, as most chargers and definitely LifePO4 chargers are slow and low current charge ...

Notes:
In order to avoid incorrect programming procedures
and Check Control message, it is essential to
always use the most recent version when working
with the ISTA/P programming system.

Battery voltage must not drop below 13.0 V during
programming. Connect battery charger prior to
programming.

[hanadul]

I know it is such a dumb question but I just want to make sure.
Just connect + to + on car battery and - on - on car battery?
Or - on car body?

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by hanadul

I know it is such a dumb question but I just want to make sure.
Just connect + to + on car battery and - on - on car battery?
Or - on car body?

Terminals in hood like manual says.

[FBMWWINS]

Good day to all,

as I have never owned or purchased a battery charger before - for CODING and FLASHING ECUs purposes, I wanted to hear from those of you who know the decisive characteristics and features of these products if the following one would be a good choice:

SCHUMACHER INC100 100A 12V BATTERY CHARGER AND POWER SUPPLY

Product Specifications
Input Voltage: 120V AC
Input Current: 15A cont/24A int
Output Voltage: 12V
Output Current: Service/13.5V, 0-70A; Boost/14.4V, 0-70A; Flash/13-14.8V, 0-70A cont, 100A int
Dimensions: 17.88 × 17.76 × 5.55 in
Weight: 19.35 lb
Safety Certifications: UL ULC

Unit features
Fully automatic microprocessor controlled power supply
For regular automotive, lead-acid, calcium, AGM, start-stop and Gel Cell battery types
Maintains stable voltage under varying loads during major vehicle ECU reprogramming and diagnostic work
Digital volts and amps display
Multiple output cable selection
Anderson plug with interchangeable power cords for different regional users
Heavy-duty replaceable clamps
Large handle
Adjustable mounting brackets
Adjustable mounting brackets for easy permanent installation to most shop vehicle lifts
Dual temperature-controlled cooling fans
Durable aluminum case

Power supply features
Constant voltage output – Selectable from 13.0 to 14.8V DC
Output current up to 100 amps for 3 minutes
70 amps continuous output current
Flash reprogram function
Mode button to select between service and boost modes:
Service mode – prevents battery discharge during service and in the showroom.
Boost mode – for quickly adding energy to a severely discharged or large capacity battery



Please feel free to add any model/brand that you are using with success for the above-mentioned purpose.

Thanks all in advance.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by F06WINS

Good day to all,

as I have never owned or purchased a battery charger before - for CODING and FLASHING ECUs purposes, I wanted to hear from those of you who know the decisive characteristics and features of these products if the following one would be a good choice:

Yes, that will work. No charger is needed for coding, but you do need programming PSU if you plan to flash.

[FBMWWINS]

Originally Posted by Almaretto

Yes, that will work. No charger is needed for coding, but you do need programming PSU if you plan to flash.

Thank you Alma.
At least I now know what characterstics to look for. Yes it is meant for both. I have been doing simple coding for some years and never had issues. When flusing ECUs however I read that the scenario changes and therefore I searched for something suitable.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by F06WINS

Thank you Alma.
At least I now know what characterstics to look for. Yes it is meant for both. I have been doing simple coding for some years and never had issues. When flusing ECUs however I read that the scenario changes and therefore I searched for something suitable.

Yes. With coding, engine can be run.

With programming, car shutsdown, and you need PSU that can supply regulated amps to maintain battery.

[FBMWWINS]

Hi,
another question arises as I like to use one of the mains that is on our garden terrace while the car is parked a few metres away. For that I would need a 10 METERS power extension cable. Could this be a problem when connected to a charger/PSU all in-one solution? Any SPECS to observe in such cables? Any risks, downsides?

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by F06WINS

Hi,
another question arises as I like to use one of the mains that is on our garden terrace while the car is parked a few metres away. For that I would need a 10 METERS power extension cable. Could this be a problem when connected to a charger/PSU all in-one solution? Any SPECS to observe in such cables? Any risks, downsides?

Distance should be fine, but make sure you are using correct gauge and adequate ampere.

[FBMWWINS]

Originally Posted by Almaretto

Distance should be fine, but make sure you are using correct gauge and adequate ampere.

Thank you.

[m4f1050]

Sorry to revive old thread, but since I was searching for this particular solution I wanted to share mine....

CbRadiosPronto sells these and in a variety of flavors, like 50amp, 75amp, and even the popular 100amp model.

I bought this model, 100 amp for $199.99


100 AMP CONTINUOUS POWER SUPPLY-CONVERTER-BATTERY Charger 12 volt 13.8 vdc

And a 2gauge 20ft jumper cables for $20.99 which I cut in half and can use other half for a 2nd unit.


Booster Cables 2 Gauge Jumper Leads 20 FT Heavy Duty Car Van Clamps Start US

Making it the cheapest solution, just a little over $200

Hope this helps.

[farbmw]

Originally Posted by m4f1050

Sorry to revive old thread, but since I was searching for this particular solution I wanted to share mine....

CbRadiosPronto sells these and in a variety of flavors, like 50amp, 75amp, and even the popular 100amp model.

I bought this model, 100 amp for $199.99


100 AMP CONTINUOUS POWER SUPPLY-CONVERTER-BATTERY Charger 12 volt 13.8 vdc

And a 2gauge 20ft jumper cables for $20.99 which I cut in half and can use other half for a 2nd unit.


Booster Cables 2 Gauge Jumper Leads 20 FT Heavy Duty Car Van Clamps Start US

Making it the cheapest solution, just a little over $200

Hope this helps.

Hi any updates on this unit? Is it working as expected?