Fabspeed Mid pipe (advice) and wanted / where to buy

[icegrill]

Well I opted out of a fabspeed pipe after reading some of the horror stories about fitment and customer service. The thing I don't like about Remus is that it's just straight pipes no x or h or y transition. Guess it's gonna be active.

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by domino_z

a freer/less restrictive exhaust will make the oe burble louder

the value add in the mpe is the ease of bolting up an exhaust and just having it work out of the box, while retaining warranty and epa road worthy, which satisfies a very real subset of owners

not everyone cbf hacking open into an exhaust like a christmas turkey to baller on a budget more noise

The MPE has a lousy note (sounds like an old 2 stroke motocross bike) and makes no power and other than saying "I've got an MPE" and the nicer tips and bit of weight saving, there's no value in it whatsoever.

The value in modifying a stock exhaust if you can tig weld (I can) is that it remains looking stock, fits the same sounds better and makes power. Unless that was achieved with any other vehicle for example HSV Commodore owners, an exhaust that sounds lousy and makes no power is unsaleable.

I can't believe people by this junk for their M3/M4's and pay insane prices to make their car sound like an old 2 stroke motocross bike is the reality of it.

[RevNev]

Here we go; this exhaust made by Milltek in the UK has best potential to sound good that I've seen.

[drgmt]

Originally Posted by RevNev

Here we go; this exhaust made by Milltek in the UK has best potential to sound good that I've seen.

Link for that ?

[ruley74]

Originally Posted by drgmt

Link for that ?

They're all over eBay, about $3500. They require similar fitment to the MPE i.e. cut original behind secondary cats...

[drgmt]

Originally Posted by ruley74

They're all over eBay, about $3500. They require similar fitment to the MPE i.e. cut original behind secondary cats...

Yeah was more looking for a local link

[ruley74]

Originally Posted by drgmt

Yeah was more looking for a local link

http://www.millteksport.com/stockist...ntry=Australia

Looks like lots or authorised dealers, the ones I refer to on eBay are apparently in Melbourne via that sparesbox.

[RevNev]

Here's a clip of the Milltek with secondary cat delete.

They've stepped the pipe size up from the secondary cats to 2.75" and is stepped up at the wrong end of the system. When the turbo pipes and front section is 2.5", stepping the size up after that's a waste of time. It's like putting 6 foot of 1" hose on the end of your 1/2" garden hose and thinking it'll flow more water. They potentially have a good design then do something stupid increasing the pipe diameter and adding weight to the exhaust for no gain.

[mynameisplayer]

If you're going catless, then you're going to run a tune to get rid of CEL - then the tune will give you ~100hp. Run BM3 and you can fiddle with the pops/bangs all you like -turn off cold start while you're there.

[drgmt]

Originally Posted by mynameisplayer

If you're going catless, then you're going to run a tune to get rid of CEL - then the tune will give you ~100hp. Run BM3 and you can fiddle with the pops/bangs all you like -turn off cold start while you're there.

It will also give you a spun crank hub. Fun times !

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by mynameisplayer

If you're going catless, then you're going to run a tune to get rid of CEL - then the tune will give you ~100hp. Run BM3 and you can fiddle with the pops/bangs all you like -turn off cold start while you're there.

Secondary cat delete doesn't throw a CEL. Some OBD exhaust valve controllers stop the CEL with a primary cat delete (catless downpipes) without touching the tune is another way.

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by drgmt

It will also give you a spun crank hub. Fun times !

There's not much consistency with spun crank hubs. Some radically modified and tuned engines haven't spun the hub and some said stock engines have spun. I think a CS or perhaps a GTS factory tune with better fuel is enough without compromising reliability unnecessarily.

[drgmt]

Originally Posted by RevNev

There's not much consistency with spun crank hubs. Some radically modified and tuned engines haven't spun the hub and some said stock engines have spun. I think a CS or perhaps a GTS factory tune with better fuel is enough without compromising reliability unnecessarily.

The only correlation is statistically the more power you have the more likely it is to happen.

Yeah there is the occasional stock car. But almost exclusively these cars are tuned.

Largely these are tuned cars and I wouldn't be surprised if tune quality was directly proportional to the chance of spinning.

[drgmt]

Originally Posted by RevNev

There's not much consistency with spun crank hubs. Some radically modified and tuned engines haven't spun the hub and some said stock engines have spun. I think a CS or perhaps a GTS factory tune with better fuel is enough without compromising reliability unnecessarily.

The fact that it hasn't happened to GTS and CS cars is statistically ambiguous as there a fewer of these cars. It may be more common if more were made. We just don't know.

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by drgmt

The only correlation is statistically the more power you have the more likely it is to happen.

Yeah there is the occasional stock car. But almost exclusively these cars are tuned.

Largely these are tuned cars and I wouldn't be surprised if tune quality was directly proportional to the chance of spinning.

The integrity of the flash tunes people have configured and are selling are risky I think. I haven't delved into the BMW system as yet but I've used HP Tuners on Holden's and Ford's for years and there's a lot parameters in the system they can mess up, it's not all about making power. That's why a factory tune providing it isn't altered is a safer alternative. I personally wouldn't go higher in power than CS tune without using a dedicated race fuel like Elf or VP perhaps for a track day. On our 98, I wouldn't use a high power USA tune sold on dyno numbers.

There's 25 to 30kw in a catless exhaust and that's a decent increase within the capabilities of a factory tune, but they're mega loud with no cats and to tone it down the exhaust must be re-worked to add resonators into the system.

[mynameisplayer]

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...spun+crank+hub

[dannyz_M4]

Originally Posted by RevNev

The MPE has a lousy note (sounds like an old 2 stroke motocross bike) and makes no power and other than saying "I've got an MPE" and the nicer tips and bit of weight saving, there's no value in it whatsoever.

The value in modifying a stock exhaust if you can tig weld (I can) is that it remains looking stock, fits the same sounds better and makes power. Unless that was achieved with any other vehicle for example HSV Commodore owners, an exhaust that sounds lousy and makes no power is unsaleable.

I can't believe people by this junk for their M3/M4's and pay insane prices to make their car sound like an old 2 stroke motocross bike is the reality of it.

I don't agree with you in saying the MPE is a lousy note. That's quite subjective! I, in fact love the sound of my MPE, and that's what sold me on it when I test drove comp v mpe at the dealership. But, I do agree in 'room for improvement' that's why I'm hoping to delete secondary cats and add a resonator and x/merge pipe at that said location. Otherwise I LOVE my MPE, and am more then happy with my purchase decision.

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by dannyz_M4

I don't agree with you in saying the MPE is a lousy note. That's quite subjective! I, in fact love the sound of my MPE, and that's what sold me on it when I test drove comp v mpe at the dealership. But, I do agree in 'room for improvement' that's why I'm hoping to delete secondary cats and add a resonator and x/merge pipe at that said location. Otherwise I LOVE my MPE, and am more then happy with my purchase decision.

I'm talking about what the MPE sounds like outside the car and you can't hear that without someone driving the car as you stand on the side of the road listening to it. Inside the car particularly with the ASD (engine noise through the sound system) and a louder exhaust, it can sound fantastic but it's not the sound heard externally.

As I've mentioned previously, the MPE has the resonator deleted meaning when the valves are open, there's no muffler in the system between the secondary cats and the tailpipes and that alone makes it louder. If you cut the resonator out of the stock system to replicate the MPE, it'd likely sound much the same at full throttle when the muffler is bypassed with open valves.

Having said that, the note potential's in the midpipe and the MPE will likewise sound good at revs with open valves and reworked midpipe. The MPE or any other rear muffler isn't a necessary purchase to make power and sound good at full song with a valved exhaust system.

There's 30kw of engine power lost in the cats and if you decat them with an MPE, you have no mufflers at all with the valves open and they're crazy loud and absolute cop bait if you stand on it in fact, it's unusable on the street like this. Consequently, it's a necessity to rework the midpipe if you want to reach the engine's power potential without over stressing the engine with high boost tune ups.

[dannyz_M4]

Ideally deleting secondary cats and adding x pipe (see pic) In exact location would be my next step..

The only concern I have with these x pipes is the internal decrease in diameter...?? Will this hinder performance RevNev? Or would a H pipe be better???

Thoughts ??

[SE7EN335]

Im still waiting for my custom exhaust fabricator to come back from Europe so he can start on a custom midpipe for my MPE that deletes the secondary cats into a single midpipe essentially creating a "ghetto" version of the AA midpipe. All the video clips of the MPE with AA midpipe and catless downpipes sounds epic and almost exotic sounding.

[RevNev]

Originally Posted by dannyz_M4

Ideally deleting secondary cats and adding x pipe (see pic) In exact location would be my next step..

The only concern I have with these x pipes is the internal decrease in diameter...?? Will this hinder performance RevNev? Or would a H pipe be better???

Thoughts ??

The M3/M4 sounds like a V6 Commodore with a dual exhaust and an X-pipe reduces the farty V6 note and makes it sound more like a single system. Joining the twin pipes for twice the length of the pipe diameter, so joining the twin system into one for 5" and then separating them back into two sounds the same as an X-pipe without the internal restriction.

X-Pipes work on V8's with a scavenging effect from one bank to the other but V6 and inline 6 engines have alternate exhaust pulses from each bank or from each turbo in the M3/M4 unlike a V8 and an X-Pipe serves no purpose other than smoothening the exhaust note.

Balance pipes or H-pipes don't join the pipes together for a long enough distance to fully blend the pulses together and only takes the farty edge off it. The stock resonator has an H-Pipe inside like the MPE H-pipe you can see externally but takes up space in the resonator reducing the muffling capacity.

[dannyz_M4]

Originally Posted by RevNev

The M3/M4 sounds like a V6 Commodore with a dual exhaust and an X-pipe reduces the farty V6 note and makes it sound more like a single system. Joining the twin pipes for twice the length of the pipe diameter, so joining the twin system into one for 5" and then separating them back into two sounds the same as an X-pipe without the internal restriction.

X-Pipes work on V8's with a scavenging effect from one bank to the other but V6 and inline 6 engines have alternate exhaust pulses from each bank or from each turbo in the M3/M4 unlike a V8 and an X-Pipe serves no purpose other than smoothening the exhaust note.

Balance pipes or H-pipes don't join the pipes together for a long enough distance to fully blend the pulses together and only takes the farty edge off it. The stock resonator has an H-Pipe inside like the MPE H-pipe you can see externally but takes up space in the resonator reducing the muffling capacity.

So in short, the pic of the x pipe I uploaded would NOT be suitable your suggesting? Or would be? As I said I'm looking at the picture of it and thinking it's reducing twin pipes into a much smaller diameter (the x) then coming out into a twin again...??