Arm Motorsports Downpipes

[Alanb97]

So is anybody on a stage 2 tune or on E with the catted version of these??

[E92Roni]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

^^Yes, two small tacks (6&3 o clock) will solve your headache.

Fantastic, what a great and reputable company ARM is….

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by RoniE92

I've put about 100 miles since installing the catless, resonated DP's. I ordered new from ARM with the O ring that's apparently suppose to fix the rattling. Had one of the most reputable shops in LA install but the rattle is SO LOUD that anywhere I drive people ask what's wrong with the car. Is the tack weld the only solution at this point?

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

^^Yes, two small tacks (6&3 o clock) will solve your headache.

I did one small tack weld at 6 o clock and it's been solid for about 3 months now.

[hellokitty]

Any update here? I heard they revised their downpipe design and flange but not sure if it's completely solved now…

Maybe heat wrap it is… any recommendations on what to use?

[E92Roni]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Any update here? I heard they revised their downpipe design and flange but not sure if it's completely solved now…

Maybe heat wrap it is… any recommendations on what to use?

Their customer service reached out to me saying send back the downpipes you have and $100 deposit. Once we receive it we'll send you our new revised ones that don't rattle. Pretty sure they just made the downpipe and flange all 1 piece

[marauder1]

Right now i've got a set in my garage that came with the o-ring, you're saying they've updated the design again so it's not needed? Might try to get mine exchanged.

[Info@mad-us.com]

No o-rings to mess with here

[dpgfunk]

Originally Posted by Info@mad-us.com

No o-rings to mess with here

Also no resonators to reduce rasp

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by dpgfunk

Also no resonators to reduce rasp

A few popular midpipe brands are now offering resonators as options now but I see your point

[Wanted_M]

^^Add an optional resonator with your new mid pipe.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by marauder1

Right now i've got a set in my garage that came with the o-ring, you're saying they've updated the design again so it's not needed? Might try to get mine exchanged.

You might as well just install it and get the flange welded.

It took my welder literally 5 minutes to tack weld and mine is now problem free.

Cost me $20

[Kstoff125]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

You might as well just install it and get the flange welded.

It took my welder literally 5 minutes to tack weld and mine is now problem free.

Cost me $20

I had the same problem, used very thin aluminum sheet (can be purchased from any hobby store) and cut a piece about 1/4 the diameter of the downpipes, wedged it in the flange, has been rattle free for the last 2 months. I'm sure it may work itself out at some point, but it was a $9 fix and took all of about 5min.

[joykuen@gmail.com]

tack welded the dp to the flange and went smooth for a week. and now slight rattle again.
ughhh. gonna have another look

[philmeister4]

Are there any alternatives to ARM for resonated down pipes?

Seems like the retailers are all selling catted DPs exclusively now.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by philmeister4

Are there any alternatives to ARM for resonated down pipes?

Seems like the retailers are all selling catted DPs exclusively now.

AR Design used to make one but doesn't anymore. EPA has everyone running these days unfortunately

[Jim45678]

Shall i get catted ARM downpipes or catless resonated?

I plan to be running stage 2 some time in the future and question is: if i get catted puts limitation on future power outcome or its barely noticeable? I care little to zero about emissions etc.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by Jim45678

Shall i get catted ARM downpipes or catless resonated?

I plan to be running stage 2 some time in the future and question is: if i get catted puts limitation on future power outcome or its barely noticeable? I care little to zero about emissions etc.

I would go catless resonated.

The only catted version that proves it doesn't lose power when tuned is the AA downpipe with GESI cats that cost nearly $3k.

[Gbenwa705]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

I would go catless resonated.

The only catted version that proves it doesn't lose power when tuned is the AA downpipe with GESI cats that cost nearly $3k.

What about the Wagner catted dps?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by Gbenwa705

What about the Wagner catted dps?

I would get AA w/GESI cats since they are EPA certified in 49 states.

If I was in Europe, then Wagner would be my choice since their cats are EURO 6 certified.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Jim45678

Shall i get catted ARM downpipes or catless resonated?

I plan to be running stage 2 some time in the future and question is: if i get catted puts limitation on future power outcome or its barely noticeable? I care little to zero about emissions etc.

you won't lose power with a catted downpipe on the stock turbo. I ran the Evolution Racewerks catted DP on my F82.
the catless will make a noticeable power difference once your turbos are upgraded.

The main reason I got catted was that it sounded better than catless especially when you use it with an aftermarket exhaust

[SikhF80]

I have the catless arm resonated downpipes for my f80 m3. Installer mentioned a couple ppl complained about rattling. It happened.. emailed ARM they sent the same flange with an o ring. Tried again still rattling.

Can anyone recommend a "heat wrap" or whatever it is to buy. Thanks

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by SikhF80

I have the catless arm resonated downpipes for my f80 m3. Installer mentioned a couple ppl complained about rattling. It happened.. emailed ARM they sent the same flange with an o ring. Tried again still rattling.

Can anyone recommend a "heat wrap" or whatever it is to buy. Thanks

I like a foot long inch wide strip of aluminum foil rolled up or folded, then wrapped around that one pipe to be squished by the flange. It stops rattle.

The permanent fix is to ask an exhaust shop to weld a few decent beads from pipe to flange (while installed), not just a tack or two, and don't need the whole thing either.