SCTS Racing M4 Race Car Build

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

Thanks, that makes sense.

I am seeing a possible issue with the springs on rear coils rubbing against the stock sway bar. Trying to do some research get the issue resolved.

If you notice in the picture, the body of the rear shocks was rubbing against something and not the springs. Didn't think of the sway bar. I may want to mount the rear shocks more like OEM with the shock body down low.

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by chillindrdude

i wonder if you can install DTM mirrors on? or perhaps prototype a replica?

Not in prepared class, but the other M4's being built out there will be able to.

Update for everybody: I'll have some pics from the cage shop soon - maybe by Sunday night, but wanted you to know we peeled the roof off the car last night.

[scottn2retro]

Okay, we're getting close enough to done with the cage to start posting more pics.

Had to cut away some of the rear deck to make access to the rear bar mounting area.


A view of the left rear fender area before more steel gets cut away


After drilling spot welds and cutting away more steel, the rear shock mount area from the inside

[larryn]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

After drilling spot welds and cutting away more steel, the rear shock mount area from the inside

Okay, I'm confused. This makes it appear that to get a top adjustable rear damper, you have to cut a section of the rear wheel well out? That's nuts!!

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by larryn

Okay, I'm confused. This makes it appear that to get a top adjustable rear damper, you have to cut a section of the rear wheel well out? That's nuts!!

For just a normal shock install or adjustment, you can do it in the fender. We got to the top / inside (normally not seen) to get the rear tubes to mount there.

[scottn2retro]

Another view of the Rear shock mount area from the inside


Another necessary step is taking out the dash because the A pillar bars are going to run right through the location where the ends bolt to the chassis.

[scottn2retro]

Now that the dash bar is out, we could start clearing the way for the A-pillar bars. There's a box on each side that the dash bar bolts to that needs to be taken out. Here's Ralph drilling out spot welds.


Some parts of the box needed to be cut away.


The box is gone and now the spot weld need to be ground down


Closer view of the dash bar box gone. Down in the floor, I used a "Crud Thug" to start grinding the seam glue off

[scottn2retro]

Rear shock mount areas took a lot of work to prepare for what was to come


The press fit pieces made from steel that the rear tubes will connect to. That short piece of steel tube sticking up is press fitted on top of the piece that gets bolted in opposite of the rear shock on the underside. You can see that short piece of steel tube on the rear deck in the next picture.

[scottn2retro]

Rear bars starting to go in


Making sure the rear cross tubes are symmetrical

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by larryn

Okay, I'm confused. This makes it appear that to get a top adjustable rear damper, you have to cut a section of the rear wheel well out? That's nuts!!

I should have expanded on my first response. You can see that by cutting through the fender well and getting the other side of the rear shock mount, it's going to be a lot more solid than if the tubes were attached to a spreader plate that was just welded on top of the fender well.

Here's a view from above the LR shock mount. This piece can also accommodate e90/e92 style rear shocks. Note: tubes are just tack welded in place at this point in time.

[scottn2retro]

Lining up the height/level of the main hoop horizontal cross bar. Important to get the height correct relative to the holes in the top of the race seat for the harness angles. So I had the seat in the car when it got there and had him take a measurement.

[scottn2retro]

Main hoop cross bar


From the other side

[scottn2retro]

Finally, with enough tubes in the car, we could start removing the roof.

You need to drill out all the spot welds all the way around and make sure you have the roof layer ONLY separated all across the front and the rear

[scottn2retro]

You start at the front, and pulling up the roof (you need to hammer a putty knife through the 2 spots of glue on the front roof bow)

[scottn2retro]

Once you have the front pulled up all the way across, start working your way back, prying up to pop the drilled out spot welds

[scottn2retro]

Work it up all the way to the back, where there are 2 more spots of glue on the rear roof bow to separate and then the roof can peel all the way off


The removed mangled roof that now is shaped like a giant taco shell. The burn marks from the torch are to soften the glue on the rear roof bow

[grigiof80]

wow sub'd

[clutchdj]

Good read

[scottn2retro]

After the roof is off, you gotta grind down the spot welds that were left behind to lay the CF roof on

[scottn2retro]

Roof off and most of the tubes in


getting it up on the lift to do some of the under car work later

[scottn2retro]

Once bars are tacked into placed, they need to be welded all the way around

[C-Mu]

This is awesome. Thanks fellas.