Anyone tried Bilstein B6 damptronic dampers?

[Tengocity]

I've had my 2018 M4 CP for a couple of months and really enjoying it, however compared to my Boxster with Bilstein B8 damptronic dampers, and my previous F31 running AC Schnitzer RS Coilovers, I can feel that the damping is ok, but not great. Comfort lacks control when you up the pace, and whilst sport helps, it's far from perfect.

The car is a daily driver, and UK roads are terrible, so not sure I want to lower the car as much as coilovers do, nor have a much firmer spring rate than standard. Just looking to have better quality damping, and retain the adaptive functionality.

Only option I can see is the Bilstein B6 damptronic dampers, thinking of pairing them with some Eibach springs for a subtle drop.

Ive searched, but can't find any threads with anyone who has fitted them, so thought I'd ask. If anyone has them, or even fitted B6 passive, I'd be interested to hear how they compare to stock dampers.

Thanks

[tropicatango]

From what i understand the b6 shock are oem replacement, the b8 are the sport shock and are not available as you say

Bilstein pss10 coilover would be a good option to upgrade the suspension, many people on this forum had it installed and everybody seems happy with it

[domino_z]

I gave up waiting for bilstein to release the rear b6 shocks

I ended up going with the full tractive suspension setup - and it was a great choice, plenty of info in the 2 threads kicking around

We have the same b and c roads here in aus as you have in uk, you'll be impressed with how good the tractive dampening is at speed

[Tengocity]

Originally Posted by tropicatango

From what i understand the b6 shock are oem replacement, the b8 are the sport shock and are not available as you say

Bilstein pss10 coilover would be a good option to upgrade the suspension, many people on this forum had it installed and everybody seems happy with it

The B4 is the OEM replacement, and is a twin tube damper. The B6 is a high quality monotube, gas pressurised damper, similar in construction to the dampers used in the coilover dampers, so should be considerably better than OEM ones.

The other issue with coilovers is the higher spring rate and lower ride height. Great if you want that for track or looks, but not if you just want supple road manners.

[Tengocity]

Originally Posted by domino_z

I gave up waiting for bilstein to release the rear b8 shocks

I ended up going with the full tractive suspension setup - and it was a great choice, plenty of info in the 2 threads kicking around

We have the same b and c roads here in aus as you have in uk, you'll be impressed with how good the tractive dampening is at speed

The B6 and B8 are same generally, except the B8 tends to be for lowered cars, so I think the B6 ones would be fine for me.

The Tractive stuff looks interesting, but very pricy in comparison. I am interested to hear how the DSC controllers are though, as I have one on my Boxster and it's absolutely brilliant. If it improves the BMW adaptive suspension by the same amount it would be spectacular.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by Tengocity

I've had my 2018 M4 CP for a couple of months and really enjoying it, however compared to my Boxster with Bilstein B8 damptronic dampers, and my previous F31 running AC Schnitzer RS Coilovers, I can feel that the damping is ok, but not great. Comfort lacks control when you up the pace, and whilst sport helps, it's far from perfect.

The car is a daily driver, and UK roads are terrible, so not sure I want to lower the car as much as coilovers do, nor have a much firmer spring rate than standard. Just looking to have better quality damping, and retain the adaptive functionality.

Only option I can see is the Bilstein B6 damptronic dampers, thinking of pairing them with some Eibach springs for a subtle drop.

Ive searched, but can't find any threads with anyone who has fitted them, so thought I'd ask. If anyone has them, or even fitted B6 passive, I'd be interested to hear how they compare to stock dampers.

Thanks

I would be interested in this as well. Not looking to lower my car at all but could definitely use some more compliance in the suspension. I have the passive setup on my car.

[hellokitty]

Try coding CS EDC. It did wonders for my CP.

Rebounding is way faster and it just seemed to have improved over time (probably adaptations).

I took a nice sweeper at 90+ and it’s perfectly compliant just in Sport mode. Sport+ is super impressive and stiff with extremely fast rebound. You are glued to bumpy roads even mid corner.

[ctgeorge]

Per Bilstein's site, they state the B8 are shorter to accommodate lowering springs. I'm planning on replacing the OEM dampeners on my Civic with the B6 with my current Eibach Pro Kit springs. I've read reviews these springs with the B6 on other platforms seem to work well. As for availability, the Fronts are readily available here in the States, the rears are not. You can, however, source them directly from Bilstein UK or basically anywhere in Europe. Not sure why they have not shipped them over here yet.

[deli333]

RoadRunner///M

how frequently you hit bumpstops on turns?

[rborane]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

Just installed the B6 Damptronic + Eibach Pro springs. Put on around 500km. Initially it was a bit too hard, but after 100km it definitely eases up. This is a sensational setup IMO. Car is firm, but far more compliant and planted than OE.

For me the noticeable improvements over OE are:
- comfort around city/daily
- huge improvement in damping
- more steering feel
- less body roll
- improved traction out of corners

Very happy with this setup. Should have felt like this from factory!

Eibach V1 springs (euro) or V2?

[TexasF80]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

Just installed the B6 Damptronic + Eibach Pro springs. Put on around 500km. Initially it was a bit too hard, but after 100km it definitely eases up. This is a sensational setup IMO. Car is firm, but far more compliant and planted than OE.

For me the noticeable improvements over OE are:
- comfort around city/daily
- huge improvement in damping
- more steering feel
- less body roll
- improved traction out of corners

Very happy with this setup. Should have felt like this from factory!

Did you happen to see if the front spring perch could be knocked off? I have the MP HAS kit and would like to run that spring set up with the B6 shocks.

[biofluke]

On my last 2 cars I had bilstein shocks with lowering springs and it was the perfect combo for daily driven AND track. I feel like people get crazy adjustability, just to have them on the wrong setting.

With that said, this time around I opted for the B16 damptronic coilover kit, which is getting installed today. I was very close to getting the spring/shock combo but the price was nearly the same as the coilovers. Time will tell if that was the right decision... if I read this post before I ordered the coilovers, I probably would have gone the spring/shock route too.

Glad you are happy with the setup! I only put bilsteins in my cars.

[biofluke]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

I almost went with the B16 coilover kit, however read a few reports that it was a really hard setup for a daily. Keen to hear how you find the B16's.

I just got the car back today. First impression is it is indeed much stiffer than my stock ZCP suspension. I used to always drive around in sport plus, and comfort feels similar to that. I did also add camber plates though so some of the stiffness could be from the solid plate versus bushings on the top hat.

Sport and Sport Plus with the B16 felt very planted and compliant. Comfort felt a little softer but a little less compliant. I need to do a lot more driving to fully test it, I had all the stock suspension boxed up in the car so I couldn't drive around much. I never really used to notice the difference between EDC settings, but now I definitely do.

My guess is that this system was developed for the civic EDC coding, and the ZCP might make it feel a little harder. I would be interested to try coding different EDC settings to see how it changes it.

[biofluke]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

I have the ZCP damper coding on my non-ZCP. Give your B16's a few hundred miles, my B6's definitely got more comfortable.

As you said, there is clear difference in firmness between the 3 modes with Bilsteins. With the OE dampers, the settings should rather be changed from Comfort/Sport/Sport+ to Floaty/Slightly Less Floaty/Shocks Disabled. There is nothing comfortable about the OE Comfort mode.

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

I have the ZCP damper coding on my non-ZCP. Give your B16's a few hundred miles, my B6's definitely got more comfortable.

As you said, there is clear difference in firmness between the 3 modes with Bilsteins. With the OE dampers, the settings should rather be changed from Comfort/Sport/Sport+ to Floaty/Slightly Less Floaty/Shocks Disabled. There is nothing comfortable about the OE Comfort mode.

Yeah I was actually thinking that I shouldn't be so quick to make an assessment.

Everyone says that after the setup gets broken in, it will be half inch or 3/8" lower. So the springs especially need to break in. Right now the car feels over sprung in comfort and sport. Surprisingly sport plus feels the best because there is no bouncy feeling. It felt stiff but complaint, probably because the stiff setting matches the spring rates, which might not be broken in yet. I'm going to drive it for a few hundred miles before I make any conclusions or change any coding. Problem is I don't drive the car that much so I'll have to make a point to!

[EricSMG]

With the same spring, a Bilstein will always sit higher than a stock shock/Koni/etc. This is due to their extremely high internal gas pressure - try compressing a strut by hand... it hurts.

I say this so that you don't compare your own ride height to another car with the same spring and OE dampers - that car will always sit lower than the Billy car.

All that said, I'm certain that the B6D dampers + Eibachs is the ultimate street setup for these cars and this thread only confirms that. It also seems to be common knowledge, at this point, that the B16D coil overs are maybe a tad too aggressive. Of course that's relative a directly proportional to your age - in my 20's I didn't mind aggressive. Now in my 40s I want plush but controlled.

Edit - I recently had Alex / Apline code my ZCP dampers to CS, no other changes = nice upgrade. Minor, but nice.

[MJ6]

RoadRunner///M

Your review convinced me to go the same route as I've been looking for a more compliant dampening effect for daily driving, while not dramatically pushing the aesthetic envelope associated with installing lowering springs.

Did you install them yourself or have a shop handle it? I've done a few strut/spring replacements on other platforms, but never on an ///M. Do you have any tips or insights as to any installation differences between the Bilsteins versus OEM?

I appreciate it!

[Reddevils7]

where are you guys buying these dampers from?

[Scott_L]

Just installed B16's on my CS. A very worthwhile upgrade.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

where are you guys buying these dampers from?

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

Evolve UK

I can confirm: Evolve UK has them in stock as I ordered a set today.

Stateside vendors I was told won't have the front shocks in until mid-late October.

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

Well I recently did the MSS spring install in May 2020 myslef, but given time constraints with kids etc I decided to just get my shop to do the B6 & Eibach. (Charged me 4 hrs) It didn't look too much more difficult than installing the MSS springs. You re-use most OE hardware except the front bumpstops (B5 have internal bump stop up front)

Still loving this setup. Just be aware the first hundred miles is a bit stiff, so don't be disheartened after the install, the break-in nicely.

This B16D installation should give you all the steps you require for B6's. Just a note that the wiring is apparently sensitive on the damper, so refrain from tugging on it.

Oh boy, that install video is ridiculous.. you do not need to take off the entire strut assembly to decompress the spring or any of the strut braces from the car engine bay. Total waste of time.

There is only one nut holding the strut assembly to the top hat. All you have to do is:
1) unbolt the swaybar end link (to give full extension to the strut)
2) disconnect EDC wire and remove brake line/wheel speed sensor lines from holding brackets out of the way again to give as much clearance and extension when the strut releases from the top

You compress the strut assembly with a jack from underneath, then with impact driver remove the nut holding the shock shaft from strut mount on the top and then slowly lower the jack to relieve the tension on the spring.
The important part of the assembly (shock/spring/rubber mount) will all
come down and you can replace with the bilstein assembly (once you've released the shock from the steering knuckle- remove the bolt and use a big slotted screwdriver or pry bar to extend the sleeve). Bilstein spring doesn't
have any preload and you can simply adjust with the ring to get it snug once installed.

Voila.. probably saved you an hour of work.

Reasons why you can do it this way:
1) the stock spring is pretty short
2) the stock spring doesn't have much preload with the wheel fully
extended

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

+1 you don't need a spring compressor.

Never use an impact gun on the strut top bolt, you need a pass-through wrench. Impact wrench can damage the shock internals.

Here are BMW's methods:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uts/1VnXlsa5Jm

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ion/1VnXpGifkf

Best of luck finding those BMW special tools. Most DIYs don't have a full blown $10k specialized tool supply like the one in this video, quite misleading.

Running the impact driver for a couple seconds probably won't do anything to the shock, these are hardened steel shafts and can take a lot of abuse.
The real issue is that the impact driver can over torque if you're not careful,
so I recommend using it only to loosen the nut and then you can use an open ended socket with a combo wrench to tighten the new nut.

Here are the sockets I used:

for the factory top nut:
Schwaben 003046SCH01A-01 Strut Nut Socket (18Mm)

for the bilstein replacement top nut (it's bigger than the factory
nut).
Schwaben 22mm Strut Nut Socket 1/2" drive
Part #: PEL-003046SCH01A-04

[RRedline]

If you are uncomfortable using the impact wrench, you can just buy one of these for $15 from Pelican Parts:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...03046SCH01A-01