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| 06-01-2015, 10:50 PM | #199 | |
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 In regards to the pic above though, I think it would have been cool if you would have left everything B&W except for the roundel... I think doing that would really make it pop, and just add to yet another awesome pic from you man. Amazing!! ///Mikey
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| 06-02-2015, 09:17 AM | #200 | |
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| 06-02-2015, 09:19 PM | #201 | |
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| 06-03-2015, 08:37 PM | #202 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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3er's M3 Photo & Editing Tips I am very far from a professional photographer, as it’s simply a hobby. However, I have been asked several times how I shoot and edit my photos. Instead of answering questions one-by-one, I thought I’d write-up the process I use. I’d also love to hear from you photography pro’s of how I can further improve my knowledge. Gear I use the following gear to take all the photos you’ve seen on my F80 M3 build thread.
Note that these photos were taken with an iPhone, so please don't judgeShooting: I primarily use the XF 56mm lens, as it’s superior to the 18-55mm lens in most situations. The downside to using the 56mm lens (85mm equivalent when paired with the X-T1) is that I have to step very far away to get full car pictures. However, given the low aperture (F 1.2), it lets in a ton of light and produces beautiful bokeh that can really present some very sharp photos. I will typically shoot in F1.2, but will occasionally set the lens to F2.8 or a tad higher if I don’t want as much bokeh. I also shoot on the lowest ISO that I can to maximize clarity. Almost every photo is taken at ISO 100 and I only move higher in very low light situations where I don’t have a tripod handy. In most cases, however, I do bring a tripod along. I also tend to (slightly) underexpose my photos versus overexposing them, as editing overexposed photos to look good (i.e., not blown out) is very difficult. Lastly, I will use the fastest shutter speed that I can to avoid any blur. In most cases, I can take very clear photos in relatively low light with a good exposure level. However, I use a tripod when using >=30 ms shutter speeds since I can’t keep the camera still enough to produce clear shots. Oh, and I shoot in JPEG mode. I have shot in RAW, but find that it doesn’t seem to offer enough pros for my amateur needs and the X-T1 has a fantastic JPEG mode. ISO:Weather: I almost always shoot pictures in the evening (morning works well, too) or when it is overcast. Doing so results in really beautiful and balanced shots. Shooting in direct sunlight tends to lead to overexposed and washed out pictures. At some point, I’d like to invest in some lens filters. Based on the limited research I’ve done, using the proper filter can make direct sunlight shooting work very well. There are also filters that minimize glare and cause clouds/the sky to really pop. Editing I exclusively use Adobe Lightroom 5 for photo editing. In my opinion, it provides the perfect amount of editing power without being overwhelming (unlike Adobe Photoshop). These are the settings I typically adjust. Note that the settings below work well with my camera. Your mileage may differ based on your equipment. White Balance (WB): Auto Lightroom has a tendency to increase the temperature too yellow for my taste. I typically dial back the automatic setting by 50-60%. Tone: Auto Similar to temperature, Lightroom will almost always set the Exposure too high when using Auto. In almost every case, I’ll dial the exposure back to ~30% of the automatic setting. In most cases, I tend to leave everything else under tone as the Automatic setting sets them. However, I’ll sometimes play around with Highlights, Shadows, etc. if I’m not satisfied with how the blacks come out, etc. StockPresence Clarity and vibrance are the secret weapons of Lightroom. Increasing the clarity slider can result in amazingly crisp photography. I almost always have this adjust to some extent (anywhere from 30-60, depending on the photo). Too much, however, and you can create some very unrealistic, albeit sometimes cool, photos. Vibrance is also a great way to make your colors really pop. StockPost-Crop Vignetting Lastly, I wanted to touch on Amount, Midpoint, and Feather under the Highlight Priority style. Adjusting the amount to -27, for instance, produces a really nice vignette around the photo. I typically leave Midpoint at 15 and Feather at 95. On some occasions, I prefer a “cleaner” photo and will leave the Amount at 0 (i.e., Off). Stock
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| 06-05-2015, 06:33 PM | #203 |
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Wow, amazing info again bud!
Appreciate the effort! 
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| 06-05-2015, 07:01 PM | #204 | |
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| 06-05-2015, 08:03 PM | #205 |
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That M Perf front is really growing on me, dammit.
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| 06-05-2015, 10:15 PM | #206 | |
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| 06-05-2015, 10:17 PM | #207 |
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The CF is growing on me.
This kinda messes with my clear bra plans, though. I don't think I am going to cover the stock splitters now, and just wait to cover the CF in it.
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| 06-05-2015, 10:34 PM | #208 | |
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| 06-05-2015, 10:38 PM | #209 | |
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I'm actually going to install the bra myself, and I'm ordering about a 12' bulk stock of Xpel with all the tools here in about a week or so. Edges wrapped and all. I'm all for a meet up! BBQ sounds delicious. Also, Lake Travis is about to its normal state, so there's some decent views to be had.
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| 06-06-2015, 01:38 AM | #210 | ||
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| 06-06-2015, 01:43 PM | #211 | |
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| 06-06-2015, 01:44 PM | #212 | ||
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| 06-06-2015, 09:49 PM | #213 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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DINANTRONICS Stage 1 Review - Magazine Layout         DINANTRONICS Stage 1 Review - Traditional Layout For those of you that don’t like to read, let’s cut this review to “It feels faster, bro.” (TL,DR). For those of you that do (or don’t mind, at least), continue on! Dinan is a well-known BMW tuning company that also has an impressive racing history. Steve Dinan has made a name for himself and his company by developing and selling high quality products with factory-matching warranties. For the F8x, they offer their engine tune in the form of a DINANTRONICS Stage 1 piggyback unit. Dinan has historically been a software company in relation to their tunes. All the way to the e92 M3, they have successfully circumvented BMW’s encryption on their ECU’s to offer software tuning when many other competitors only offered piggyback based units. Recently, however, Dinan has gone the piggyback route due to the ever-increasing difficulty to break BMW’s encryption on newer F based vehicles. While they have openly discussed the benefits (and their preference) of software tuning, they somewhat had to backpedal when releasing their DINANTRONICS products to tout that they can safely tune via a harness that intercepts and modifies signals to safely increase power (air/fuel ratio, boost pressure, etc.). How To Install DINANTRONICS Performance Tuner On You F8x M3/M4 *Note:* I had mine installed by BMW of North Houston. If you're in the Houston area, I can't recommend them enough. Shout out to scott@bmwhn! EDIT/NOTE: The videos below are only intended to highlight the fact that Dinan had to reverse their tuning philosophy, as they historically touted ECU tuning and "bashed" piggyback systems. They are not intended to prove or disprove Steve Dinan's comments that their tunes produce the same (or close to the same) power as their competitors' offerings. ECU Tuning: Piggyback Tuning: Although these videos are convoluted when paired, Dinan’s credo, at least, is simple. They “offer the means to make your BMW driving experience even more exciting, without sacrificing warranty coverage or the civility you expect from a BMW automobile.” Do they live up to this statement? Let's find out.   So, how’s the power? With the M3 in it’s OEM state, it’s clearly fast. DINANTRONICS brings this to a new level. Boost comes on much harder in lower RPMs. The car pulls like a powered procession of attached carts on a track, otherwise known as a train (e.g., 6th gear pulls on the highway are noticeably better). It’s, simply, much faster. I was initially concerned if I would notice the increase in power right away. I’ve heard reports ranging from “it’s awesome” to “I can’t feel a difference.” I won’t speak for others’ experiences, but the increase power certainly registers on the butt dyno. Not only is the power instantly noticeable, but also the whooshing sounds (you know, turbo-y noises ☺) are much more apparent. Between the feel and sound, it’s been a great visceral improvement. This may be controversial to say, but I’ve owned both to comment. My M3 now reminds me more of my 996 911 Turbo X50 than it does the stock M3. Perhaps this is due to the increased power. Perhaps this is due to increased induction noise. Perhaps this is due to the slingshot effect of the car. Perhaps it’s all three. Honestly, though, it doesn’t matter – what does matter is that I think of my beloved 911 Turbo when I press on the throttle. Not only does one benefit from such improvements, but the car also drives as Dinan states – civility one would expect from a BMW. It’s the combination of such factors that makes this tune such a quality product. DINANTRONICS Stage 1 1/4 Mile Run (12 seconds @ 120 mph) Many forum members state that Dinan is conservative with their tunes. Dinan states that they are not conservative and, instead, strike the correct balance between power and drivability. I won’t argue either and find that the power delivered by the DINANTRONICS tune certainly makes the car more fun to drive with what appears to be no short or long-term compromises. To avoid using subjectivity, I will now insert objectivity. To do this, take a look at the gains from the tune. My M3 was run on an AWD Dynojet 424x using STD correction. For the stock run, the temperature was 82 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity at 67%. The car was run in Sport+ in fifth gear with DSC off. For the tuned run, the temperature was 88 degrees Fahrenheit (+6) and humidity at 57% (-10%). I used the best runs from both days, but also included a chart of all 6 runs (3 stock, 3 tuned). For the graphs and gains, I compared the best runs from each session.        Stock Run Tuned Run Stock  Tuned  Stock vs. Tuned   Stock WHP: 442 Stock WTQ: 422 Stage 1 WHP: 451 Stage 1 WTQ: 451 Stage 1 WHP Peak # Increase: 9 WHP Stage 1 WTQ Peak # Increase: 29 WTQ Stage 1 WHP Peak % Increase: 2% Stage 1 WTQ Peak % Increase: 7% Stage 1 WHP Max # Increase: 33 WHP Stage 1 WTQ Max # Increase: 55 WTQ Stage 1 WHP Max % Increase: 7% Stage 1 WTQ Max % Increase: 13% Dinan Claimed HP: 516 Dinan Claimed TQ: 489 Measured HP: 531* Measured TQ: 531* *Calculating 15% drivetrain loss. Clearly, the peak HP gains are a bit disappointing (+9 WHP, +27 WTQ), but it is clear that the DINANTRONICS tune is more about midrange gains/power than ultimate horsepower numbers (+33 WHP, +55 WTQ max). This is also apparent in the way that it drives. It was a tad hotter today, so perhaps this impacted the numbers by just a couple of WHP and WTQ. Unfortunately, the dyno was modified since my original run. I don’t understand the inner workings of their AWD dyno, but they had an issue with a shaft (kind of looks like an axle shaft) that helps drive the front wheel barrel. I believe a belt attaches to it and is what spins both front wheel and rear wheel barrels simultaneously. In any case, I tried to follow along as the tech explained that there may be some slight differences in how the dyno measures the car because they were doing something slightly different (I really wish I was more savvy to better explain it, but it still wasn’t working 100% to their liking). This is clear in the stock versus tuned videos. In the stock video, both front and rear wheels spun. In the tuned video, only the rear wheels spun. In any case, this may have had some impact on the numbers, according to the tech. Dinan claims that we should see a +42 HP and +47 TQ from stock. My numbers, assuming Dinan used a 15% drivetrain loss calculation, equate to 10 HP and 33 TQ. Clearly, this is far off from their claim based on my runs if looking at peak numbers. However, my *final* numbers *are* indicative of where my car should have ended up. For instance, Money2536’s M3 measured a final run of 443 WHP & 454 WTQ after his tune, running on a Dynojet, while in similar weather/elevation. That’s very similar to my final numbers. Okay, enough about numbers! How do competitors stack up? There are four primary components when comparing the DINANTRONICS tune to competitors: Price, Power, Features, and Warranty. Fact: Dinan is expensive relative to other available tunes @ $2,500 MSRP. When JB4, ESS, Eurocharged, etc. offer tuning packages $1,000+ cheaper, Dinan has a tough sell on their hands. Furthermore, tunes, such as JB4, offer a comprehensive set of additional features, such as a CEL delete, a boost gauge, and exhaust valve operation, among many others. DINANTRONICS is a purely “set it and forget it” tune. Dinan has also publicly stated that they will no longer offer CEL deletes due to environmental regulations. While this doesn’t appear to be a legal decision (i.e., just market the product as “race only”), it sounds like an ethical decision. Touching on this topic, aftermarket-tuning companies play nicer with power adding mods. JB4, for instance, allows one to run custom maps to better suit their vehicle’s power mods – E85, downpipes, turbos, etc. If this route interests you, pass on Dinan. On the other hand, if a tune, intake, and exhaust are all the “power adders” you crave, you may have a tougher decision on your hands.  Warranty vs. Risk Tolerance…FIGHT! What may ultimately sway your vote is related to the ever so controversial “warranty discussion.” Dinan is well known for their *factory matching* warranty. Tuning competitors have no such warranty, so you as the consumer take on increased risk when running their product. In Dinan’s case, they assume the risk. When discussing warranties, it comes down to one thing: Risk Tolerance. I have been quite vocal in that I am quite conservative when it comes to ensuring I am covered in the event of an issue. I, therefore, have an admittedly low risk tolerance. Is that the “right” way to be? Yes and no. “Yes” if you have a similar outlook. “No” if you do not. If the thought of having an engine or turbo issue that isn’t covered under warranty bothers you or may cause a significant impact to your personal finances, DINANTRONICS is a great route to take. If this doesn’t bother you and/or you can afford and/or live with the fact that an uncovered failure is low risk, then JB4, ESS, Eurocharged, etc. are likely better options for you. Before making a decision, do some soul searching. Figure out which side of the fence you fall on and stick with that philosophy. Regardless of your decision, the debate about Dinan versus X competitor will live on in good (and poor) health.   Final Words Ultimately, I’m very pleased with Dinan’s offering. My car got a nice boost in power and I can drive it worry free. Furthermore, my BMW dealer installed the tune, so it furthers the convenience from my perspective should there ever be an issue (whether with the tune or install). If you can spare $2,500 for a bit more power and care to keep your warranty, go ahead and tick the “Dinan” tune box with your local Dinan-certified BMW dealer upon your purchase .Pros:
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| 06-06-2015, 10:05 PM | #214 |
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You're doing a great job with this thread.
Hope you're enjoying your newfound power. I know this sounds funky, and may not mean anything, but maybe try a different dyno out since they modified yours? I know that might not provide you with an "accurate" delta, but it would still be interesting to see the results. I can't wait to have some updates of my own 
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| 06-06-2015, 10:15 PM | #215 | |
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| 06-06-2015, 11:23 PM | #216 |
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Nice write up!! I loved reading every bit especially since I am considering Dinan Tune. Are you planning to do stage 2? With Exhaust and CAI? Thanks again and enjoy the new power.
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| 06-07-2015, 12:06 AM | #217 | |
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| 06-07-2015, 08:34 AM | #219 |
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That can't be right ?
$2k+ for those gains ? Nice write up , but doesn't change fact that those number increases dont justify the cost of stage 1!!! You could probably get better numbers with just a downpipe. |
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| 06-07-2015, 09:55 AM | #220 | |
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There's a decent likelihood that the dyno skewed the recent/tuned numbers since it wasn't operating the same when I performed the baseline (as mentioned in the review, it wasn't setup the same way b/c of an issue with it). I'll likely go back when they get everything corrected, but also very happy with the way the car "feels." Numbers aside, I'm very happy with it. Part of me would like to see better numbers reflected on the chart, though. For reference, Money2536 posted a gain of 19 WHP and 49 WTQ, which are closer to what I expected. Unfortunately, I'll have to speculate until I can re-run the dyno with it "as it was" during my baseline.
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