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      09-26-2019, 09:39 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
For those interested, here are some pics of the puller that's required if you ever want to remove the spline lock once it's installed:
Price please?
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      09-26-2019, 08:39 PM   #46
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Shoot us an email or PM for pricing; per forum rules we can't post prices here.

Chris
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      09-29-2019, 07:33 PM   #47
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estimated number of hours a shop will charge to install it?
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      09-30-2019, 12:06 AM   #48
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Tom @ EAS wrote up a nice article outlining how they do it, we have a flat rate if done at VTT which I can share with you via PM/etc, but in general we don't quote expected hours for other shops since it can vary so wildly depending on how they approach/expertise/familiarity/etc.

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      09-30-2019, 12:15 AM   #49
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any chance of an Arizona approved installer?
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      10-02-2019, 07:12 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
Tom @ EAS wrote up a nice article outlining how they do it, we have a flat rate if done at VTT which I can share with you via PM/etc, but in general we don't quote expected hours for other shops since it can vary so wildly depending on how they approach/expertise/familiarity/etc.

Chris
We have an overview of of the VTT Splinelock install to see what's involved:

▀▄ eas | VTT "SplineLock" CrankHub Installation Overview for S55
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1561598

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Originally Posted by Mintsopoulos View Post
any chance of an Arizona approved installer?
Make the trip to SoCal, we'd be happy to service your M4 for you. We're also California's authorized installer.
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      10-05-2019, 02:03 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
We have an overview of of the VTT Splinelock install to see what's involved:


Make the trip to SoCal, we'd be happy to service your M4 for you. We're also California's authorized installer.

Im tempted but I have no idea how we would schedule something like that. Or what the entire cost of the trip would be. Cheaper than a new motor I know that haha.
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      10-05-2019, 01:03 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Mintsopoulos View Post
Im tempted but I have no idea how we would schedule something like that. Or what the entire cost of the trip would be. Cheaper than a new motor I know that haha.
https://www.bimrs.org/
safe to assume any reputable indy bmw shop can install it.
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      10-05-2019, 02:39 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by TheirThere View Post
https://www.bimrs.org/
safe to assume any reputable indy bmw shop can install it.
Thanks for the link, I would assume so as well. Im actually only an hour away from Vivid racing...Im wondering if they could handle it.
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      10-06-2019, 12:29 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mintsopoulos View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheirThere View Post
https://www.bimrs.org/
safe to assume any reputable indy bmw shop can install it.
Thanks for the link, I would assume so as well. Im actually only an hour away from Vivid racing...Im wondering if they could handle it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mintsopoulos View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheirThere View Post
https://www.bimrs.org/
safe to assume any reputable indy bmw shop can install it.
Thanks for the link, I would assume so as well. Im actually only an hour away from Vivid racing...Im wondering if they could handle it.
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      10-20-2019, 05:18 PM   #55
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evening. 2 questions really

1) how is the new V2 going? any issues to speak about? it looks like the teeth are meaner than the V1. i know there was rumours that V1 on rare occasion never bite in crank, is that risk removed on V2??? (if there was a risk)

2) looking at the pic on the website. i see 2 hubs... 1 is more hollow (left compared to right) are these actually 2 difference hubs for different cars or does it get a cap over the hollowed out area?

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      10-20-2019, 07:47 PM   #56
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Why not spline the entire hub and manufacture splined gears that slide onto the hub and stay locked in? Would this make timing the engine impossible?
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      10-20-2019, 08:31 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smee View Post
evening. 2 questions really

1) how is the new V2 going? any issues to speak about? it looks like the teeth are meaner than the V1. i know there was rumours that V1 on rare occasion never bite in crank, is that risk removed on V2??? (if there was a risk)

2) looking at the pic on the website. i see 2 hubs... 1 is more hollow (left compared to right) are these actually 2 difference hubs for different cars or does it get a cap over the hollowed out area?

cheers
lee
Going great, lots of positive feedback from V2. The bite is more aggressive, which means the shop installing needs to take their time, but it's

I am not sure what pic you mean, but likely different motor application. We make these for N54, N55, S55 currently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev608 View Post
Why not spline the entire hub and manufacture splined gears that slide onto the hub and stay locked in? Would this make timing the engine impossible?
Tends to not hold up, but there are always multiple approaches to problem solving.

Chris
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      10-21-2019, 08:07 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
Tends to not hold up, but there are always multiple approaches to problem solving.

Chris
Could you elaborate, please? It seems to me that you've done well to solve the hub issue, but nothing to solve gear slip. Or is there something I'm missing?
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      10-21-2019, 08:59 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev608 View Post
Could you elaborate, please? It seems to me that you've done well to solve the hub issue, but nothing to solve gear slip. Or is there something I'm missing?
Hub slip is gear slip effectively. The crank and all timing related pieces have to stay, well, in time. Anything slips and it all goes out the door.

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      10-21-2019, 01:38 PM   #60
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Sorry, not trying to be argumentative, simply want to understand. It's not possible for the gears to slip when the hub is spline locked in with the CBC?
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      10-21-2019, 10:42 PM   #61
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No worries brother! The hub to crank is a friction fit (stock). The gears are mounted to the hub. If the hub slips, the gear slips too. Make sense?
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      10-21-2019, 10:55 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
No worries brother! The hub to crank is a friction fit (stock). The gears are mounted to the hub. If the hub slips, the gear slips too. Make sense?
Yes, I totally get that they will slip if the hub slips. My question is whether or not it is possible for the gears to slip independently of the hub. I.e. if the hub stays locked in place, does that guarantee the gears will as well?
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      10-22-2019, 09:04 AM   #63
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No, gears are not going to move independently of the hub.
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      10-22-2019, 09:28 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
No, gears are not going to move independently of the hub.
Awesome! Thanks for clarifying this for me. I appreciate the time you take on these forums!
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      10-22-2019, 12:00 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Kev608 View Post
Awesome! Thanks for clarifying this for me. I appreciate the time you take on these forums!
Timing gear and hub are machined as a single piece. The remaining gear (oil) is not critical to timing.
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      12-08-2019, 06:27 PM   #66
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Bump for the best-selling AND best-performing option on the market and the only one with a no-slip guarantee avail when installed by an authorized facility.


Basics: Why a spline vs. a key or pin?
While there are many ways to solve crank hub slip issues, of the three major methods (spline, key, pin) the spline is the only one primarily designed to transmit torque. Splines are considered to be "torque dense", meaning extremely efficient at transmitting torque, and do not suffer from balance issues as can be had with some key/pinned setups. Typically many splines are used, which means a more uniform transfer of torque and a lower loading on a given part of the shaft/hub interface. Don't take our word for it though, just look at your own car; transmission input shafts, axles, clutch disks and more all use splines as the chosen torque transmission method. As we see it, the only disadvantage of using a spline over a key or pin is in the manufacturing cost. Don't trust us though, do a little google searching and you'll find this to be repeated many times, a couple quick examples in no particular order (if you want some light spline related reading for the evening):

https://gearsolutions.com/features/inside-splines/

http://westmichiganspline.com/theory/

Design Details!
At a glance summary: we switched to straight splines, made them bigger, and increased the interference fit. How tight? Tight enough that you will need a special puller to remove the Spline Lock if for some reason you ever choose to (puller available for a small additional cost). What about hardness? Great question, glad you asked. The new Spline Locks are made of 440C Tool Steel material with a Rockwell hardness of 55-60 HRC. Check out the pics below (note the hardening process turns the metal a matte grey, then the surface where the seal rides is polished):

No-slip guarantee? Here's the scoop!
Simple. If installed by our shop (VHP in Hayward CA) or one of our approved shops (right now that list includes EAS, and in PR Bimmer Solutions) we guarantee the hub won't slip. The no slip guarantee says the spline lock will not slip for the life of your engine (original owner only). If any issues arise (they won't), diagnosis and/or repair must be performed by VHP or approved installation shop, which is just another way to saying we want people who know what they're doing installing it, and if anything comes up, we want those same qualified people repairing it. If found to have slipped, we will replace the hub, and labor at no cost. This does not cover any possible engine damage.

Do I need to use the CBC with this?
Yes, the Spline Lock and the CBC together are a complete solution.
[B]

Bottom line: The best selling & best performing option on the market, zero reported V2 spline lock (I informally call it the splock) slip events. It works, period.
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