Stage 1 Tune without Crank Hub Fix Yes or No?

[Mugenboyz]

Would you get a stage 1 software only tune without the crank hub fix?

[LukeM15]

Take it for what it’s worth.
My first F80 I had BM3 stage 1 for 3 years no crank hub fix. Can ran great with no issues not even a single warning light.
Now on my second M3 same as above but only about 2-3k miles. Debating on the Upgraded Hub if I jump to stage 2.
The above is just my experience I think this varies so don’t base your decision on mines.

[santiwan]

I think you have to consider how long you plan on keeping the car. If the plan is to keep it long term, and tuned, then I would recommend getting the fix.

[Humdizzle]

depends. this is just my personal opinion since the evidence says there is no rhyme or reason why this happens.

Stage 1, manual, oem tires, not competitively racing/tracking i think you'd be fine for the most part.

stage 1, dct, r888, lots of drag/roll/track racing... i would probably do the CH upgrade.

[BzsBimmer]

You’re going to worry yourself in circles.
It’s a stage 1. As soon as you tune it, your warranty is technically voided anyway.

Then you’ll need to worry about which crankhub vendor will fix it and if they manufactured it right or if their engineers designed it to work properly

Then whomever did the install, did they install it right and how long will it last and if not, who’s going to cover the cost of your engine and labor if they didn’t.

Do you have the money in reserve in the event some goes catastrophic? Not like BMW won’t notice a crankhub modification.

Of course many people are running stage 1 and 2 without issues without any “fixes” and like the poll when I submitted, ended up 50/50. And then people who were stock had a CH slip.

Lol. Good luck.

[rborane]

Meant to vote yes, but accidentally hit no. Stage 1 here with stock hub. You will be fine! Just don't kick down a lot and beat on it.

[xxHRxx]

seems PIS discontinued the crank hub solution, anyone here has ideas where I should get that done? Plan to do mine after the warranty expires next year.

[Mugenboyz]

Thank you all for your expertise responses.

[Ropes]

Have been running a jb4 on E30 for 28k miles then over to a flash for 10k miles with out any issues. I also use the kick down without worry because life is short and worrying about a small chance is silly.

[deeldoo]

Get the crank bolt capture, like 500 dollars with install, most cases from what i gathered end up happening when the bolt backs out.

The capture keeps it from backing out, Do this and call it a day.

[LukeM15]

Originally Posted by deeldoo

Get the crank bolt capture, like 500 dollars with install, most cases from what i gathered end up happening when the bolt backs out.

The capture keeps it from backing out, Do this and call it a day.

It’s been confirmed that it won’t prevent it from failing. So imo don’t..leave as is or get the crank hub upgrade.

[deeldoo]

Originally Posted by LukeM15

It’s been confirmed that it won’t prevent it from failing. So imo don’t..leave as is or get the crank hub upgrade.

There are 3 viable ways the crank hub can fail from what I have read, the cbc helps the instance where it backs out which seems to be the one that's common.

Not sure how it isn't useful, it isn't fool proof but to say it doesn't keep the bolt from backing out and causing a spin is not correct.

[avex8]

Get it for peace of mind. I am running 750whp and 680 tq and not worrying about anything. I have the gintani crank hub

[mjposner]

"Get it for peace of mind." Makes no economic sense at Stage 1. Assuming a $3k cost to get peace of mind and 6k cost if it fails, then it would have to fail more than 50% of the time to make the cost benefit worthwhile. I suspect that its way below 10% and for stock cars even less, otherwise recall and if no recall, class action lawsuit. Neither happened which means while real its not a big issue.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Humdizzle

depends. this is just my personal opinion since the evidence says there is no rhyme or reason why this happens.

Stage 1, manual, oem tires, not competitively racing/tracking i think you'd be fine for the most part.

stage 1, dct, r888, lots of drag/roll/track racing... i would probably do the CH upgrade.

Why ?

Looking at the stats, there doesn't seems to be any evidence that DCT is more prone to SCH issues.

[sna66]

From what I've seen and read so far stg2 + E85 seems to be asking for trouble - take this with a grain of salt. I have dct & stg 1- its a nice improvement over stock but I don't think it warrants the fix. I personally worry about any associated risk with the installation of the fix as well, or doing the fix and having it spin anyway. I exercise some caution when approaching redline

[Humdizzle]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Why ?

Looking at the stats, there doesn't seems to be any evidence that DCT is more prone to SCH issues.

I just think the hard kickdowns play a part in it. I suppose if you drive the DCT in the proper way, manual mode, and shift gear-by-gear it wouldn't cause the issue. Again no evidence that i could point to in a court of law to provide irrefutable proof, just my opinion from things i've read and talking with a vendor/tuner.

[cheveux]

If you are not an hooligan driving, get a CBC and call it a day

[audioMeth]

Originally Posted by xxxHRxxx

seems PIS discontinued the crank hub solution, anyone here has ideas where I should get that done? Plan to do mine after the warranty expires next year.

turner motorsports isn't too far from RI.

[RoundelM3]

I've already got an Alpine Stage 2 without the crank hub fix. I don't abuse the car, though - no launching or burnouts, etc.

[Graves]

I should've stayed off the forums. I was about to tune my car with BM3 S1, but now I'm having second thoughts. Car has around 9,900 miles. Never had any issues. I live in Germany, so I drive this car like I stole it from the museum in Munich. Only mod is Eventuri intakes and charge pipes. I don't launch the car, but I beat the piss out of it from 1 - 7 and run her up to 130+ mph on the Autobahn. But like everyone said, it's a toss up. It's either going to fail, or it's not.

[maddmatth]

If you're really paranoid just do the crank bolt capture, and don't venture beyond a stage 1 tune.

But maybe try turn off your DSC - or use Euro MDM + latest software, floor it in 1st and second gear and let's see if you still feel the need for another 100hp...

When my BMW warranty expires, I might just flash a comp pack / CS tune and call it a day.
The car tempts me to break enough traffic laws as it is...

I also see you're in California... isn't the 'premium' fuel there 95RON. Not sure I'd want to be pushing my car's engine on anything less than 98RON, which is BMWs recommended fuel for this car (at least over here, they say 98 recommended, 95 minimum). More power than stock on fuel worse than BMW's recommendation just feels like a bad idea.