01-09-2019, 02:58 PM | #23 |
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How much money could you possibly be saving going for a damaged 2018 M4 versus getting a 2015-2016 M4 in good shape with a clean history? I feel that would be preferable in almost any circumstance.
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01-09-2019, 03:00 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for all the input guys!
Did someone say you can’t insure it if it’s branded ? Yeah that would be a deal breaker anyways. I plan on using it as a daily. I think I’d be saving about 20 grand going this route but the risk may not be worth it. I also don’t appreciate the fact that some people think that just because you’re trying to find a good deal means I, or people like me, can’t afford it. Lol |
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01-09-2019, 04:49 PM | #25 | |
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01-09-2019, 06:27 PM | #26 |
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Drives: 2020 M4 ZCP / 2023 X3 M40i
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01-09-2019, 08:01 PM | #28 | |
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BTW, I rebuild cars in my spare time for fun. It’s certainly not my full time job. And I am super picky on the few cars I chosen to rebuild (type of crash and damage). Like any car repair, it comes down to the quality of the work and parts. I typically use new OEM parts. Others don’t. If a used 2018 M4 with low miles is roughly $65k, the same branded car would probably be roughly $40k. So there is a huge savings. I’m not doing it to make a fortune, lol. Far from it. Just a hobby. Clearly branded cars are not for everyone. And you will face same issues and questions when selling again. |
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01-09-2019, 10:20 PM | #29 |
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I’ve heard that it’s a lot harder to finance a branded title, and more expensive to insure. Both make sense. And most warranty companies will not warranty a car with a branded title.
Sounds like a terrible idea to me. |
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01-09-2019, 11:10 PM | #30 |
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01-10-2019, 12:46 AM | #31 | |
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But since you do work on these types of vehicles: if I get it pre-purchase inspected by an actual BMW dealer do you think that would give enough peace of mind? |
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01-10-2019, 12:50 AM | #32 |
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If you want to drive it to the ground, sure. If you're planning on selling it one day you will have a very hard time and I don't think you'll have saved much.
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01-10-2019, 12:52 AM | #33 | |
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A great mechanic is who I would trust more. As another poster stated, google to VIN or find someone with better access to see if you can find pics of the totalled car to see what kind of accident it was in. Then again, that will tell you nothing about how it was repaired and there are some pretty crappy repairs done out there. Who is they? |
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01-10-2019, 02:11 PM | #36 |
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This.
sds0918 here's some easy reading material for you: https://www.carinsurance.com/Article...insurance.aspx |
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01-10-2019, 02:22 PM | #37 | |
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01-10-2019, 02:27 PM | #38 | ||
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According to that story link, 1.5 million of the 2.5 totaled each year are put back on the road. Considering around 42M used cars sold last year, that means that roughly 3% are branded. If Insurance was impossible, that would not be the case. |
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01-10-2019, 02:33 PM | #39 |
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Insurance with Collision coverage is easy. The challenge is insurance with Comprehensive coverage for Branded vehicles.
Why is Comprehensive insurance coverage important, especially for vehicles worth $20k or more? Well, because you'll be SOL if any of the events take place: * Stolen vehicle * Tree falls on car * Car burns down * Flooded * Vandalized ...and the list goes on. |
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01-10-2019, 02:56 PM | #40 |
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So many inaccurate comments in here. I brought and sold 907 (branded salvage) for a long time in NY. I had a supercharged 08 M3 which had front end damage, and I got an insane deal. Kept her for 4 years and did well when I sold her. Anyway you CAN get a great deal if you:
1. Have full information on what was replaced with full pictures/documentation. In NYS, since I bought as salvage, I had to use OEM parts for airbags and other major parts, but some people will work on a part as opposed to replacing it (1/4 panel is a good example). Sine you are buying "branded" I assume the repairs have been done, so you will require the documentation/pictures/receipts or dont buy. If a shop tells you they did the repairs them selves but have no documentation, that's a red flag they're hiding something. 2. You CAN buy a rebuilt title, usually through a credit union which have less strict requirements; 3. You CAN insure a car for its full value WITH comprehensive and receive full value in the event of a total loss, at least in NYS (the guy that purchased the M3 totaled it 4 months later and received 33k for it, in NJ, AFTER parting out); 4. You need a good price to offset the hassle of selling it at a decent price if you decide to do it in the future. If you get that price, what are you really losing? 5. OEM Warranty was intact for some of the cars I purchased, and others were flagged. 6. Avoid burned or flooded cars as the eventual electrical headaches will kill any savings (theft recovery or an accident properly documented and repaired are better risks to take); 7. Check for frame damage, as that CAN be repaired correctly. Best way to tell is to take her to 60 mph and slam on the brakes. If it wasnt repaired correctly/straightened to spec it will fishtail to one side or the other. Best of luck OP!
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01-10-2019, 10:52 PM | #41 |
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I followed some of your advice.... the M4 definitely took a beating here is a link:
https://poctra.com/2018-BMW-M4/id-AJ...MONT-CA/Photos Though my mechanical expertise are basically non existent so I’m not sure if this damage is as bad as it looks. |
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01-10-2019, 11:01 PM | #42 | |
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01-11-2019, 01:01 PM | #44 | |
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I dont like the way oil cooler is mangled up. It took a bite into a pole or something. Impact went toward lower part of car. So that means it might have engine subframe damage or actual engine damage. Theres lots of parts in the front and that oil cooler is pushed back hard. Everything else like radiators were smahed into block too. Now on pics engine looks fine so maybe it didnt hit it hard but its still a risk. The harmonic balancer can screw up the crankshaft and other things. That low impact is risky. Most likely its fine but it can cause some serious damage though. Given that, I certainly would not have purchased for a weekend project. Let me remind yourself I did rebuild a 2016 F80 Competition 2 years ago with about the same mileage (purchased for just over $20k iirc) and I used for several months after repair before selling for $45k. Make of that what you will. Last edited by IK6SPEED; 01-11-2019 at 01:30 PM.. |
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