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      06-25-2018, 05:14 AM   #45
domino_z
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I'm not using a dealer to install

Do you know what was coded?
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      06-25-2018, 12:35 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
I'm not using a dealer to install

Do you know what was coded?
It's an ISTA Guided Procedure:

Accessories and Retrofittings -> Retrofit M Carbon Ceramic Brake
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      06-25-2018, 12:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domino_z View Post
Bump

Finally received my kit

Took ages to get an order out of bmw factory given these cars are going out of production

Still unsure about the exact coding required so will need to start process of finding a remote tuner who does

The plan is to install the booster, even though a small difference, if bmw went through trouble to offer another version it’s worth heeding their advise
The CCB kit is going to be discontinued? M4 is still in production.
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      06-25-2018, 05:41 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechanic75 View Post
I got my kit fitted last week. Took an age also to get the kit. I’m sure your dealer would code this for you for a charge.
Guess US shipments are lagging. Should receive my kit any day now.

Who did your install and was coding done?
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      07-12-2018, 09:31 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
for the info. That means there is a negligible difference in caliper piston area, hence my previous assumption was incorrect.

Interesting to see the CCB have slightly more front brake bias.

May I ask for your source for the piston diameters?
The original source:
Quote:
Originally Posted by racingbrake View Post
You are basically swapping the original blue 4/2 pot to gold 6/4 pot calipers just like upgrading to other aftermarket brake kits. In other words, it shall not relate to CCB system.

For your information, here is the piston size and front/rear area ratio:

CCB (gold) brake calipers:
Front 6 pistons: 30/34/36mm = 52.7 cm^2 (68%)
Rear 4 pistons: 28/28mm = 24.6 cm^2 (32%)
Total: 77.4 cm^2
Iron (blue) brake calipers:
Front 4 pistons: 40/40mm = 50.3 cm^2 (67%)
Rear 2 pisotns: 40mm cm = 25.1 cm^2 (33%)
Total: 75.4 cm^2
Total piston area and F/R ratio are almost identical on both set up, so we see no reason to be even concerned on brake bias due to this upgrade, while it might be worthwhile for you to check aftermarket brake kits that you are considering before you purchase.
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      07-26-2018, 08:39 AM   #50
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World's first RB CCM rotor kit built with continuous fiber replacing Russ' (NASA National Competition Racing) Z28 OE CCM rotors:






https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...9&postcount=14

RacingBrake is changing the way how people think about Carbon Ceramic Brakes.

Last edited by Warren-RB; 07-26-2018 at 09:34 AM..
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      07-27-2018, 01:48 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren-RB View Post
World's first RB CCM rotor kit built with continuous fiber replacing Russ' (NASA National Competition Racing) Z28 OE CCM rotors

RacingBrake is changing the way how people think about Carbon Ceramic Brakes.
Thanks. Having more options is always great.
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      07-29-2018, 03:53 PM   #52
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One word of warning.. I almost found myself in the arse end of a lorry.

When there wet, there not worth a crap....
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      07-29-2018, 05:11 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren-RB View Post
World's first RB CCM rotor kit built with continuous fiber replacing Russ' (NASA National Competition Racing) Z28 OE CCM rotors:






https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...9&postcount=14

RacingBrake is changing the way how people think about Carbon Ceramic Brakes.
Brilliant. But you don’t make them for the F8x right?
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      07-30-2018, 09:47 AM   #54
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This complete CCB kit (380/380*) is designed for F80 with standard iron brake.
https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-Calip...ccb-bmw-01.htm

*Rotors have same sizes as Porsche 991 GT3 CCB kit (upgrading from standard iron).
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      07-31-2018, 04:30 PM   #55
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Piston size info is really useful!
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      08-03-2018, 03:46 AM   #56
Neil McRae
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obardain View Post
One word of warning.. I almost found myself in the arse end of a lorry.

When there wet, there not worth a crap....
Where the brakes cold? The only time I've had this happen is when the brakes were cold, in heavy rain if the brakes have been installed right this shouldn't be an issue as the brakes clear the water.

Cheers,
Neil.
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      08-07-2018, 01:18 AM   #57
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yeh no wet issues here other than moving the car immediately after washing it - gives you a bit of an oh-shit moment as pedal travel doesn't translate to braking force you're expecting
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      08-09-2018, 05:23 AM   #58
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Ended up getting these coded and wow, now they feel proper

The retrofit option is in instap, and the pszdata we used is the latest so it updated pretty much every single module, and I scored latest v3.5 trans sw too and it's so much smoother than before (v3.2 iirc)
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      09-15-2018, 03:53 PM   #59
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CCB retrofit - killer looks and no brake dust

Porsche anti rattle discs to cure squeaking noise which wouldve drove me nuts. Thanks CSanto and reighnman

Looking forward to getting them coded
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      01-02-2020, 12:27 PM   #60
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Sorry to bump an old thread - has anyone tried the CCB swap without doing the booster?
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      01-03-2020, 12:46 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92coupe View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread - has anyone tried the CCB swap without doing the booster?
When I retrofitted my CCB I first installed them without booster. The brakes feel too aggressive and non-linear. After the booster install it became normal, I highly recommend replacing the booster.
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      01-04-2020, 12:00 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjypm View Post
When I retrofitted my CCB I first installed them without booster. The brakes feel too aggressive and non-linear. After the booster install it became normal, I highly recommend replacing the booster.
Thanks so much for the reply. After hours or searching, I couldn’t find any true feedback on anyone who had actually tried it.

How hard was the booster swap to do?
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      01-04-2020, 12:19 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92coupe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by yjypm View Post
When I retrofitted my CCB I first installed them without booster. The brakes feel too aggressive and non-linear. After the booster install it became normal, I highly recommend replacing the booster.
Thanks so much for the reply. After hours or searching, I couldn’t find any true feedback on anyone who had actually tried it.

How hard was the booster swap to do?
I felt the same when I was doing the retro. That was why I installed the kit without booster first.

It was 4-5 hours of labor to swap the brake booster + coding.
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      02-07-2021, 10:51 AM   #64
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Any one have any idea if the brake booster can be replaced without disconnecting the master cylinder fluid lines?
I want to install the brake booster with the coilovers but they won’t be able to run the ABS module to bleed it at the shop I am installing.
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      02-07-2021, 01:32 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talx View Post
Any one have any idea if the brake booster can be replaced without disconnecting the master cylinder fluid lines?
I want to install the brake booster with the coilovers but they won’t be able to run the ABS module to bleed it at the shop I am installing.
I actually just did this swap yesterday. There is no way that you would be able to do it without taking off the master cylinder. I dont know if someone has a trick that I don't, but I actually ended up having to take the ABS module out itself as well. Perhaps there would have been a way to snake it past the ABS module but I just couldnt seem to do it.

Overall it wasnt the most difficult job but in terms of the master, I don't see how you'd do it without taking those off.
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      02-07-2021, 03:15 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRGM3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talx View Post
Any one have any idea if the brake booster can be replaced without disconnecting the master cylinder fluid lines?
I want to install the brake booster with the coilovers but they won't be able to run the ABS module to bleed it at the shop I am installing.
I actually just did this swap yesterday. There is no way that you would be able to do it without taking off the master cylinder. I dont know if someone has a trick that I don't, but I actually ended up having to take the ABS module out itself as well. Perhaps there would have been a way to snake it past the ABS module but I just couldnt seem to do it.

Overall it wasnt the most difficult job but in terms of the master, I don't see how you'd do it without taking those off.
ABS as well.... 😳

Ok that sounds like a big job, did you run the ABS afterwards to bleed it with INPA?

Also do you recall how much time it took to replace only the booster?

Cheers
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