BMW F8X M (All variants) front and rear brake cooling kit

[Westersund]

BIMMERPOST / Classifieds

Asking Price:

USD 380.00

Item Interest

So I've been developing brake cooling kits as a hobby for a few years now and I just finished a complete front axle kit for the F8X series M2/M3/M4 (Also Comp/CS/GTS) and thought that might be of interest to some of you.

If you've owned a Z4 M you may recognize me from that section of this website. You can find that thread here: https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1634387

Or my thread over at Z4 Forums over in the UK: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=117884

Or my OG thread over at Rejsa in Sweden where I've made a few kits for different BMWs: https://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112776

Enough of the introduction and on to the brake cooling kit. The kit consists of 3D-printed (PETG) ducts and air guides for the lower control arms and lasercut backing plates with 3D-printed funnels (PETG). The backing plates are made of 1 mm steel and have bent edges for added rigidity and dimple died hole(s). Hose holders for the control arm and kingpin is included in the kit. All hardware such as bolts/nuts/washers/zip ties are included in the kit, all metal parts are painted (backing plates with heat resistant paint and other metal parts with metal protective paint) and the backing plates come pre-assembled. The connections on the ducts/funnels can be had in 2" and 2,5".

No hose or hose clamps are included in the kit, they are only in the picture for illustration purposes.

Payment is made with PayPal, if you want "Buyers Protection" that's on your end (add 5.5%).

I can also sell half kits. Clubsport backing plates with funnels are 160$ and control arm ducts/air guides/hose holders are 220$.

Race backing plates with funnels are 270$ and control arm ducts/hose holders are 230$.

Shipping:
- Shipping of a front Clubsport kit (up to 2 kg) as of the 21st of February is 22$ to the US and Canada.
- The Race kit requires an additional small package up to 0,25 kg which cost 11$. (An up to 3 kg package cost 53$, very strange but it is what it is)
- Shipping of a rear kit will fit in an up to 1 kg package which cost 16$.


*** Complete front Race kit in 2/2,5", 500$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm of chosen inner diameter (ID) hose/side for the brake disc ducts, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- Aprox. 30 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the caliper ducts, total of aprox. 60 cm.
- 8x hose clamps of appropriate size.


*** Complete front Clubsport kit in 2", 380$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc duct, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size, 6x if you want to use hose clamps for the knuckle hose holders.


*** Complete front Clubsport kit in 2,5", 380$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2,5" (63 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc duct, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size, 6x if you want to use hose clamps for the knuckle hose holders.


Some pictures of the Clubsport kit installed. The connectors are a little rough (cosmetic) on these prototypes and I will fine tune the raft/print further. *The finish is very much improved, see pictures on the other pages.*









Here you can see the channels under the front bumper that direct air towards the control arms and brakes (OEM):


Picture of the hose holders:



*** Complete rear kit in 2" (not available in 2,5"), 250$ *** But if you purchase, or have prior purchased, a front kit the price for a rear kit is 200$.









What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc ducts, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size.


*** Extras ***

Mesh inserts - 10$/pair.






Covers for the control arm ducts for those who want to leave the ducting on for winter driving. Holes in the center of the cover to secure the cover onto the duct with a zip tie, the cover itself will fit snug but the zip tie is for 100% secure fit. Relief cuts for easier removal. 20$/Pair.






*** Installation Guides ***
BMW F8X M Clubsport Front Brake Cooling Kit - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h79cw...=tv4z34q2&dl=0

BMW F8X M Race Front Brake Cooling Kit - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gea6b...=pnf2l9vv&dl=0

[CYANiDE]

What is the ground clearance from the lowest part of the kit?

[Westersund]

The entire kit is 40 mm lower than the lower control arm. I'd say it's about 5 inches off the ground, give or take a little.

[spxxx]

Cool design, similar to the GT3RS... have you been able to test airflow vs a bumper/splitter mounted duct?

Also, what is your 3D printing hardware setup? I've been tempted to pick one up with all of the ghetto fabrication of parts that I do for my track cars.

Really want to create some custom shaped NACA ducts + aero bits.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Cool design, similar to the GT3RS... have you been able to test airflow vs a bumper/splitter mounted duct?

Also, what is your 3D printing hardware setup? I've been tempted to pick one up with all of the ghetto fabrication of parts that I do for my track cars.

Really want to create some custom shaped NACA ducts + aero bits.

Thanks! Yes it's a bit of GT3RS combined with more traditional directed airflow to the hub of the brake disc. A front bumper duct will always flow more than a control arm setup, however... If your front bumper is filled with coolers and other stuff that restricts air flow but most importantly it's impossible to fit a duct. And to that you can add different kinds of engines and it's a nightmare (Mainly M2 N55/S55 in this case). But if possible I always prefer to make a front bumper duct.

Between my brother and myself we have 5 3D-printers and he's the one runing them and I do the rest (R&D, design etc). I do know we have a Raptor, Creality, Prusa, Zortrax M300 and I can't remember the name of the last.

3D-printing is very versatile and I got started with all this because I needed brake cooling ducts for my BMW Z3 Coupe, there's nothing to buy so I had to make my own.

[rakusak]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Thanks! Yes it's a bit of GT3RS combined with more traditional directed airflow to the hub of the brake disc. A front bumper duct will always flow more than a control arm setup, however... If your front bumper is filled with coolers and other stuff that restricts air flow but most importantly it's impossible to fit a duct. And to that you can add different kinds of engines and it's a nightmare (Mainly M2 N55/S55 in this case). But if possible I always prefer to make a front bumper duct.

Between my brother and myself we have 5 3D-printers and he's the one runing them and I do the rest (R&D, design etc). I do know we have a Raptor, Creality, Prusa, Zortrax M300 and I can't remember the name of the last.

3D-printing is very versatile and I got started with all this because I needed brake cooling ducts for my BMW Z3 Coupe, there's nothing to buy so I had to make my own.

Would you be interested in selling this through "Shapeways.com" This would allow people the option of a few materials.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by rakusak

Would you be interested in selling this through "Shapeways.com" This would allow people the option of a few materials.

What kind of material would you like the parts the be printed with? We're printing with PETG right now. But unlike many who use 30-50% infill we're using 80%, so I can assure you the parts are sturdy.

[rakusak]

Originally Posted by Westersund

What kind of material would you like the parts the be printed with? We're printing with PETG right now. But unlike many who use 30-50% infill we're using 80%, so I can assure you the parts are sturdy.

Originally Posted by Westersund

What kind of material would you like the parts the be printed with? We're printing with PETG right now. But unlike many who use 30-50% infill we're using 80%, so I can assure you the parts are sturdy.

Right on! I guess my main thought was so you could network to a bigger audience… more business. I'll reach out when I'm ready to pull the trigger myself. 🙌🏻

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by rakusak

Right on! I guess my main thought was so you could network to a bigger audience… more business. I'll reach out when I'm ready to pull the trigger myself. 🙌🏻

Thank, I appreciate it! We've been looking at CF reinforced nylon, maybe we'll try that. You're welcome!

[Westersund]

Complete kit with the added, free of charge, hose holder for the control arms/uprights.




Hose holder for the uprights, to minimize the wear on the hose you can add some "padding" on the edges.




Hose holder for the control arms that uses 2 of the zip ties for the ducts.




Didn't install the backing plates on my car since this was only temporary for test fitting purposes (hose routing). Ideally you can use a hose clamp on the hose holder on the upright instead of a big zip tie I used, since it was only temporary.




Full lock to the left. The car is lifted with a jack so it's tighter between the control arm and the sway bar than when the car is on the ground (Correct me if I'm wrong).




Full lock to the right.

[Westersund]

Here's a couple of pictures of the backing plate fitment. You can see that the airflow outlet is just at the edge of the hub to direct air into the hat of the rotor.

[Westersund]

Made some mesh inserts for those who want them. 15$/pair.

[jfritz27]

Seems like a neat setup for the price point. You should post the details/pics in Track and/or Brakes sub-forum. This is kind of buried in this Classified section.

For brake cooling newbs like myself, does the kit come with decent install instructions?

[m4forum]

I have spent a lot of timing studying brake cooling because the issues M3/M4 platform has when driven hard at the track. One of very important information I found by talking with BBK manufactures and measurement data is that cooling efficiency is extremely important.
Unless the air intake is located on high pressure area on bumper and ducting has small bents w/o 90 degree curves there is a chance its efficiency will be compromised.
I made a measurement on air flow at the rotor side on a design similar to this and found out the air flow dropped by ~ 65%. It was enough for me to abandon the idea and move to BBK.
You can measure air flow (Amazon) has a lot of cheap air flow meters.
Good luck!

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

Seems like a neat setup for the price point. You should post the details/pics in Track and/or Brakes sub-forum. This is kind of buried in this Classified section.

For brake cooling newbs like myself, does the kit come with decent install instructions?

Thanks! The kit has a functional focus rather than bling and I want to keep it affordable. There's carbon kits that's 2-3 times as expensive that look cool, but if you're after the function I think my kit is a good option. I appreciate the support, not sure I want to "spam" different boards since I'm not a regular here at the M3/M4 forum. I regularly visit the Z4 M and M2 sections though. If people like what my kit have to offer I hope the word will spread.

I have a simple guide how to install the kit, it's pretty straight forward and easy (especially if you wrench yourself). But if someone needs help or just have questions I'm here to help.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by m4forum

I have spent a lot of timing studying brake cooling because the issues M3/M4 platform has when driven hard at the track. One of very important information I found by talking with BBK manufactures and measurement data is that cooling efficiency is extremely important.
Unless the air intake is located on high pressure area on bumper and ducting has small bents w/o 90 degree curves there is a chance its efficiency will be compromised.
I made a measurement on air flow at the rotor side on a design similar to this and found out the air flow dropped by ~ 65%. It was enough for me to abandon the idea and move to BBK.
You can measure air flow (Amazon) has a lot of cheap air flow meters.
Good luck!

I'm not surprised that BBK companies will recommend their own products. However there's something quite significant that comes with BBK kits and that's the price tag. If you can achieve a similar result with the standard brakes and a brake cooling kit compared to a BBK there's quite a big price difference, 400-450$ (if you buy hose etc) compared to 3000+$. That's money you can spend on something that makes more of a difference if you're chasing lap times.

I fully agree with you that a front bumper duct is optimal (all of my kits except this one has them), but that's not always an option. In the case of F8X M cars a front bumper duct isn't a viable solution. The way I see it there's 3 options:

1. Cutting holes in your front bumper for the ducts. How many people want to cut holes in the front bumper of their street car? Not many.

2. Designing ducts that are placed behind the exsisting coolers behind the front bumper. The coolers themselves will reduce flow and the air temp after the coolers will be significantly higher than the ambient air temp. Not promising.

3. Control arm ducts might flow worse than front bumper ducts but they will direct ambient air in the right direction without cutting up your front bumper. Also there's channels under the front bumper that guides air towards the control arms. This is the best option in my opinion.

The design of the kit isn't something I've haphazardly come up with and I know it works from experience. All cars with brake cooling kits will have bends in the hose, street or race, and that's something you can't get around and you're correct saying it will effect flow. With that said... if the decrease in air flow is 10% or 90% is irrelevant as long as the net air flow is good enough to cool the brakes, which it is.

If you can lock up the wheels the braking performance is good enough. The standard brakes are good enough even for track driving as long as you're using street legal tires (incl R compounds), if you're using slick tires they might not be. But as you said the standard brakes overheat and to overcome that problem you can either cool the brakes or go for a BBK with more mass (or both). Both alternatives will delay the point of brake fade enough for track days with 20 minute sessions, after 20 minutes of hard driving your R compounds will have overheated anyway and the brakes will overpower the tires.

Lastly, even if you have a BBK or not brake cooling will reduce the wear on your pads, discs and the risk of cracks in the discs.

Thanks!

EDIT: And I think it goes without saying that with any track driving, despite brake setup, you will need brake pads/fluid that's up to the task.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Thanks! The kit has a functional focus rather than bling and I want to keep it affordable. There's carbon kits that's 2-3 times as expensive that look cool, but if you're after the function I think my kit is a good option. I appreciate the support, not sure I want to "spam" different boards since I'm not a regular here at the M3/M4 forum. I regularly visit the Z4 M and M2 sections though. If people like what my kit have to offer I hope the word will spread.

I have a simple guide how to install the kit, it's pretty straight forward and easy (especially if you wrench yourself). But if someone needs help or just have questions I'm here to help.

No worries man, I appreciate the sentiment about not wanting to spam, but the track guys around here are cool and I think would appreciate the heads-up on this option -- I took the liberty of putting a post in the Track section with a link to this thread, hope you don't mind!

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

No worries man, I appreciate the sentiment about not wanting to spam, but the track guys around here are cool and I think would appreciate the heads-up on this option -- I took the liberty of putting a post in the Track section with a link to this thread, hope you don't mind!

Thank you! I appreciate it.

[m4forum]

Keep it up! It takes effort to develop something but at the same time is very rewarding. This is why this community is awesome!
I loved the M3/M4 any potentially will get other one in future ... the only area I felt short was on the braking system ....
if you drive few times a year on non demanding tracks should be fine with stock brakes but if you drive more often on high brake demanding tracks at more advanced levels unfortunately I dont believe there is an alternative to BBK (it is sad and expensive).

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by m4forum

Keep it up! It takes effort to develop something but at the same time is very rewarding. This is why this community is awesome!
I loved the M3/M4 any potentially will get other one in future ... the only area I felt short was on the braking system ....
if you drive few times a year on non demanding tracks should be fine with stock brakes but if you drive more often on high brake demanding tracks at more advanced levels unfortunately I dont believe there is an alternative to BBK (it is sad and expensive).

Thanks, I will! Next up is rear brake cooling for the F8X M platform, when I can find the time.

When it comes to the stock brakes I think we have to agree to disagree. Pads, fluid and brake cooling and the stock brakes will be plenty good for track days. I've sold a few kits to people in Sweden (M2 Comp, M4 Comp, M4 CS...) and it will be interesting to get their feedback. The M4 CS is owned and driven by a (very good) former privateer Swedish Touring Car Championship driver, he knows how to drive.

[m4forum]

The 6 piston Brembo are definitely much better than regular 4 piston Brembo. I see they would be handle track duties much better than the blue calipers and save you 10k. I have some experience on rear cooling as well ... with 4 pistons on rear and Girodisc rotor cooling is not required. Enjoy!

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by m4forum

The 6 piston Brembo are definitely much better than regular 4 piston Brembo. I see they would be handle track duties much better than the blue calipers and save you 10k. I have some experience on rear cooling as well ... with 4 pistons on rear and Girodisc rotor cooling is not required. Enjoy!

In what way are they much better? I'm assuming you're talking about the 390 mm front brakes from the Competition model. My kit is mainly for people who want don't want to spend a lot of money but still have reliable braking performance. It's hard to notice if your rear brakes need to the better or need cooling since it's not as apparent as front brake fade, if you measure the temp front vs rear I think you would be surprised.