30 Jahre Edition F80

[wenuma]

I have a lead on an F80 30 Jahre Edition and wanted to know if anyone has any experience with the special edition vs a normal ZCP F80. The car is very competitively priced but has a very minor accident on it's record.

[TimmyTurbos]

IMO the accident kills any higher value it may bring. Hence probably why its competitively priced. If it's a documented collision, it's not 100% anymore.

[wenuma]

I'm personally between this one and another base DCT for 51k. Both are nice, but 51k for a base even fully loaded 2 owner, vs 53k for a special edition comp, it's hard to not drop the extra couple thousand for the Jarhe.

[TimmyTurbos]

Imho, the base dct is going to be a better buy, unless its been wrecked too.LOL. I'd keep looking for a better one, but thats just me..Get a comp for sure either way though.

[wenuma]

This is maybe my M3 lack of knowledge here, but you don't think, long term, the Jahre edition will hold more value, even with a minor accident (dealer says total repair is less than $500)?

And no, the base doesn't have any damage on Carfax.

[jackgreer]

Less than 500 dollars isn’t even an accident in my opinion. It costs 250 dollars just to look at the damn car lol.

I’m curious where that quote comes from…the dealer trying to minimize what previously happened or trying to short you on what it’ll cost for you to fix? Either way sounds like a lie. But if it’s really 500 dollars - tell him to go ahead and fix it then, can’t be more than a few drops of sweat.

[knightarmor]

Id look the Jahre over with a fine tooth comb. Have a friend or someone who knows the F80 look it over with you. Try to find out what the 500$ repair was. As the jackgreer mention about 500$ repair could be the mirror got broken off or something small. If it indeed was a 500$ repair.

I think its worth it to really look at it closely considering the price. Worst that can happen is it was a simple 500$ repair and now youre into a Jahre purchase LOL

[alex2364]

Originally Posted by wenuma

This is maybe my M3 lack of knowledge here, but you don't think, long term, the Jahre edition will hold more value, even with a minor accident (dealer says total repair is less than $500)?

And no, the base doesn't have any damage on Carfax.

No, an accident is an accident. What evidence does the dealer have to support the claim that the repair cost was $500? Do you genuinely believe that people will believe you when you sell it in the future simply because the dealer you purchased it from said so?

Furthermore, the F80 Jahre Edition is not an exceptionally rare highly desirable special edition. You’d be better off to find a clean Individual car in a desirable color.

[hC1001]

Why not go for a M3 CS? I think that is the best to hold value and you also get lots of add ons like hood, splitter, and rear spoiler. At 50Ks you are in the range, and you might find a good deal from a private seller.

[wenuma]

I mean, I haven't put too much thought into a CS. I thought those were in the 70-80k range, which is out of my price range. Plus, are CS's really dailyable?

And thank you Alex. That's kinda what I was thinking given I had never heard of them before, so they can't be in that high of demand.

[TimmyTurbos]

You can daily a CS, however you would be much more comfortable in a base comp with all the extras including an arm rest. And still be way under 70k buying the carbon bits yourself. HP wise a CS is only like 10more or so vs a comp. Not worth 70 or 80k imho. Unless you plan on not driving it daily and keeping the miles real low on it for max resale value.

[RElias21]

I have a Jahre.

I couldn’t care less that it’s Jahre and that’s not why I bought it. I wanted a manual, comp with full leather and the cleanest car I found that fit the bill happened to be a Jahre. My wife happened to love the color, which is Jahre specific, but was just an added bonus.

I don’t think F80s are collector items.
I think you should go for the best car that fits the specs you want.
Accidents for me are a big no-no.
In fact, if God forbid I get into an accident with mine, it’s likely going up for sale.


Of course, that didn’t stop me from getting the True Spec sticker 😂

[wenuma]

Also, I'm seeing a few good looking M3's both comp and non comp within a good price range, however, some have up to 4 previous owners. Aside from a PPI, would yall buy an F80 in general if it had multiple owners like that or would the multiple owner shy you away?

[TimmyTurbos]

Clean car, no mods, clean car fax, low miles and a fair price. Check those boxes and I wouldn't care if there were 10 owners tbh.

[ffchun]

Perform your due diligence, and be comfortable with the information. Verify the history with the vehicle with documentation (including accident report). Remember, all facts on CarFax is just the "reported" events. Have somebody reliable complete a full pre-inspection-report to back-up all documentation. An "accident" is just that, based on the severity and circumstances that is disclose to you as the buyer. Don't get tunnel vision,just because its "Jahre Edition". You may be paying for it in the long run...
Good-luck !!

[Zstyle]

I own a 30 Jahre and didn't specifically go after it. I wanted a four door, manual, no sunroof. I bought mine kinda sight unseen until i flew out there. There is really nothing special about it versus a regular comp. The color is nice and some of the trim. I do my own work and thru FCP its been very manageable to daily driver. I do agree, a clean unmolested car is essential if you want to own the car for a long time.

I also started a thread to document the jahre vins:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ighlight=jahre

*BTW, most people and even enthusiasts do not recognize/notice mine is a 30 Jahre edition.

[afadeev]

Originally Posted by wenuma

This is maybe my M3 lack of knowledge here, but you don't think, long term, the Jahre edition will hold more value, even with a minor accident (dealer says total repair is less than $500)?

First of all, how do you now the repair total was <$500?
I would start by asking to see the repair paperwork first-hand. If they don't share it - you know they were lying all along. If they do share it, please relay to all of us how does one get into a <$500 accident and still insists on going through insurance!

Jahre edition is 100% cosmetic. The resale value of those color combos is highly questionable - if you find someone who likes them, great. If not, just calling them "Jahre edition" will mean next to nothing to someone who doesn't like Macao Blue or Frozen Silver paint.

And as always when buying a used car:
Rule #1: Always pay for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) on a used car at a shop of your choosing (different than the selling dealership). If out of state, check with local BMW CCA and SCCA folks for shop recommendations. Be prepared to pay for 1-2 hours of labor.
Rule #2: PPI will always uncover issues, hopefully small ones, that will inform your negotiation and support your (lower) offer on the vehicle.
Rule #3: If the seller does not cooperate with arranging PPI, walk away immediately.

HTH,
a

[ffchun]

Originally Posted by afadeev

First of all, how do you now the repair total was <$500?
I would start by asking to see the repair paperwork first-hand. If they don't share it - you know they were lying all along. If they do share it, please relay to all of us how does one get into a <$500 accident and still insists on going through insurance!

Jahre edition is 100% cosmetic. The resale value of those color combos is highly questionable - if you find someone who likes them, great. If not, just calling them "Jahre edition" will mean next to nothing to someone who doesn't like Macao Blue or Frozen Silver paint.

And as always when buying a used car:
Rule #1: Always pay for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) on a used car at a shop of your choosing (different than the selling dealership). If out of state, check with local BMW CCA and SCCA folks for shop recommendations. Be prepared to pay for 1-2 hours of labor.
Rule #2: PPI will always uncover issues, hopefully small ones, that will inform your negotiation and support your (lower) offer on the vehicle.
Rule #3: If the seller does not cooperate with arranging PPI, walk away immediately.

HTH,
a

Great advice. Also, don't be in a "hurry" to complete the process of purchasing a "used" vehicle. We tend to get tunnel vision when we think its just a "great deal", only to find out the reason "why" the car is for sale.

[wenuma]

The "why" the car is for sale has been on the forefront with some of the M3's I've seen. I'm happy I've sat on these cars for a while and haven't jumped at anything yet. I'm also debating between a DCT and a Manual. I had a Manual M2 and for daily driving the Manual was a pain from time to time.

[TimmyTurbos]

Get the manual.
1- way more rare than DCT.
2- BEST security system money can buy these days! Hahaha

None of these knuckleheads out here can drive stick!

[wenuma]

Is the DCT not just a better and faster driving experience on these things though? I love manuals, and would be more inclined if it was a weekend/track only car. But manual for dailying stinks, at least in the midwest where I live. And I've read that the F80 manual is rubbery and not great.

[greysea]

Originally Posted by wenuma

Is the DCT not just a better and faster driving experience on these things though? I love manuals, and would be more inclined if it was a weekend/track only car. But manual for dailying stinks, at least in the midwest where I live. And I've read that the F80 manual is rubbery and not great.

I had manuals and autos but never had a chance to own an actual dual clutch for its quick shifting speed. My previous car before my 16 m4 was a lexus is350. And its paddle shifting was so slow compared to this. When I test drove and heard how quick it was, it was amazing and I had to have it.

Some people just love manual and will always say manual… but I can’t argue with facts and when you look up how fast the DCT shifts at 60-80 ms, while fastest manual shifts will be 100-250ms. ZF 8 speed is around 150ms.

So I would say if you aren’t that into a manual and worried about it dying off into the future, then go with DCT.

It sounds like you have already decided.