Official F8X Track Alignment Specifications

[Powerslide]

Originally Posted by David0ff

I'll give you a starting point for a good alignment. Then you can tweak from there

F
Camber -3.1x (Low 3.1)
Toe In 0.05(+/- 0.01)degrees per side

R
Camber -1.6x (Low 1.6)
Toe In 0.10(+/- 0.01)degrees per side

NT01 hot pressure target start 32psi Hot F&R.
Adjust as necessary to your liking for Under/Over steer balance +\- 1-2 PSi F/R

Have Fun!

Forgive my "beginner" level of knowledge on this topic - but will the above "starting point" specs still allow for relatively stable handling characteristics at higher speeds on highway driving? For the track I drive on - the maximum straight line speed I get is about 116-118mph - so I'm sure the above specs will be great on the track - I'd just like to be able to drive the settings above as much as possible on the street (without have to swich back and forth between track and street settings). Thanks!

[David0ff]

Originally Posted by Powerslide

Forgive my "beginner" level of knowledge on this topic - but will the above "starting point" specs still allow for relatively stable handling characteristics at higher speeds on highway driving? For the track I drive on - the maximum straight line speed I get is about 116-118mph - so I'm sure the above specs will be great on the track - I'd just like to be able to drive the settings above as much as possible on the street (without have to swich back and forth between track and street settings). Thanks!

Yes you will be fine on the street and track.
Car will be super stable and predictable at speed.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by David0ff

Yes you will be fine on the street and track.
Car will be super stable and predictable at speed.

Is -3.1 front too much for the street?

I have pretty good wear at -2.5 front so I am thinking of increasing it a bit. It feels like these cars really need a lot of front camber to feel stable at higher speeds.

Got my alignment scheduled today

[EGbeater]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Is -3.1 front too much for the street?

FWIW, I ran 3.5 degrees of negative camber with zero toe for One Lap of America in 2021 with my F80... almost 4k miles of highway driving in a week + a bunch of track events, an autox, and two skidpad tests... no noticeable inner shoulder wear afterwards. Started with a new set of tires (295/30-18 Conti ESC) so IMO this was validation of the idea that negative camber by itself doesn't cause excessive tire wear.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by EGbeater

FWIW, I ran 3.5 degrees of negative camber with zero toe for One Lap of America in 2021 with my F80... almost 4k miles of highway driving in a week + a bunch of track events, an autox, and two skidpad tests... no noticeable inner shoulder wear afterwards. Started with a new set of tires (295/30-18 Conti ESC) so IMO this was validation of the idea that negative camber by itself doesn't cause excessive tire wear.

Thanks.

My alignment tech recommended a -2.5 square setup. No toe in front and a slab of toe-in in the rear. Feels like a completely different car compared to the -2.0F and -1.8R with the same toe.

I'll monitor for any unusual tire wear since this is my daily driver.

[rborane]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Thanks.

My alignment tech recommended a -2.5 square setup. No toe in front and a slab of toe-in in the rear. Feels like a completely different car compared to the -2.0F and -1.8R with the same toe.

I'll monitor for any unusual tire wear since this is my daily driver.

Curious to see your alignment sheet

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by rborane

Curious to see your alignment sheet

I didn't get one since there is no machine.

This guy does it the old school way using chalk and string haha

[DeathBear]

What's the general consensus on weighted vs no weight alignment?

If weighted is it just on the driver or is it on driver, passenger, rear seats, and trunk?

Most shop I've called said weighted is not called for, but if I want, they can put it on driver seat.

Thanks in advance.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by DeathBear

What's the general consensus on weighted vs no weight alignment?

If weighted is it just on the driver or is it on driver, passenger, rear seats, and trunk?

Most shop I've called said weighted is not called for, but if I want, they can put it on driver seat.

Thanks in advance.

Might as well do it right, and weight the driver seat accordingly. I'm not sure how many shops are really getting that precise with their alignments anyhow.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by DeathBear

What's the general consensus on weighted vs no weight alignment?

If weighted is it just on the driver or is it on driver, passenger, rear seats, and trunk?

Most shop I've called said weighted is not called for, but if I want, they can put it on driver seat.

Thanks in advance.

Only one of two shops do my alignments. One does it with me inside the car the whole time and the other does it with me waiting outside.

It all comes down to the skill of the tech. The alignment without me inside felt a billion times better because the guy was just that much better in terms of setting up the car.

[DeathBear]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Only one of two shops do my alignments. One does it with me inside the car the whole time and the other does it with me waiting outside.

It all comes down to the skill of the tech. The alignment without me inside felt a billion times better because the guy was just that much better in terms of setting up the car.

Mind sharing who you use 😬?

[rossbats]

Hey guys. I'm booked in for a alignment since I've fitted a few new bits.

My last track alignment was at suspension secrets in England but they dont give out their specs so I'm trying to find what specs to give my local shop. (I do think I was running 3degree front and 2 degree rear)

Kw v3 coilovers
Millway top mounts
H&R front arb
SPL front drop link
SPL rear drop link
SPL fron lower arm
SPL rear toe links with lock out
SPL rear traction links
SPL rear upper arms

Apex 18x10 et25 275 wheels with semi slick ar1 tyres @ 32-34 psi
Will get semi slicks with another set of 18x10 in the future.

I'm planning on asking for

Front
Camber -3.8degree
Toe In 0.02(+/- 0.01)degrees per side
8-9 degree caster

Rear
Camber -2.8degree
Toe In 0.10(+/- 0.01)degrees per side


Car is mainly for track but sunny weekends I'll take her out too.

What do you guys think of that?

Cheers

Ross.

[GuyLedouche]

Originally Posted by rossbats

Hey guys. I'm booked in for a alignment since I've fitted a few new bits.

My last track alignment was at suspension secrets in England but they dont give out their specs so I'm trying to find what specs to give my local shop. (I do think I was running 3degree front and 2 degree rear)

Kw v3 coilovers
Millway top mounts
H&R front arb
SPL front drop link
SPL rear drop link
SPL fron lower arm
SPL rear toe links with lock out
SPL rear traction links
SPL rear upper arms

Apex 18x10 et25 275 wheels with semi slick ar1 tyres @ 32-34 psi
Will get semi slicks with another set of 18x10 in the future.

I'm planning on asking for

Front
Camber -3.8degree
Toe In 0.02(+/- 0.01)degrees per side
8-9 degree caster

Rear
Camber -2.8degree
Toe In 0.10(+/- 0.01)degrees per side


Car is mainly for track but sunny weekends I'll take her out too.

What do you guys think of that?

Cheers

Ross.

You paid someone to align your car and they wouldn't give you the specs??

[rossbats]

Suspension secrets take their name too seriously. From the amount of people who use them on YouTube. They're top dogs for M4 series and Porsche. But yeah, overpaid and wouldn't give me any specs apart from it being a medium track set up

[gunsmoker]

Looking for an advice - did some changes to the car and I'm getting traction loss under the same conditions. Question is, what's the culprit.
Before: stock suspension and alignment, Goodyear Supercar 3 tires, size 265F/285R
After: stock suspension, front alignment -2.3deg camber, zero toe; rear alignment -1.8deg camber, stock toe; Yokohama Advan Neova AD09 tires, same size

Driving on a sweeping ramp at 60mph in MDM mode. No traction loss before, and traction light flashing slightly and power limited after the changes.

Do you think that the small amount of added rear camber could cause the inner rear wheel to lose traction or is this likely to be due to the tire change? Tire temp was about 100deg, which is cooler than the ~150deg I'd see on a track.

Going to NH Motor Speedway later this month and will know better then how this tire performs.

[4Y_stack_acceleration]

Ross Bentley in his book says the objective of alignment is to maximize contact patch on the corners and you can actually measure whether you have achieved that if the temperatures on the inner, middle and outer part of the tires are similar after a session. It would depend on the track for sure. But found that an interesting practical technique for dialing in a track setup.

Track season is done here in the NE so just spending time reading and preparing for next season.