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      09-08-2018, 10:05 AM   #2201
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Originally Posted by Tinilp View Post
Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.
Damn...well at least their price for shop supplies is very reasonable.

I'd be doing the same as you if I got a quote that high. I also would have laughed my why out of that shop.
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      09-10-2018, 11:07 AM   #2202
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Originally Posted by Tinilp View Post
Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.
Dear god. Good luck sir.
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      09-10-2018, 03:43 PM   #2203
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      10-20-2018, 12:38 AM   #2204
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Regarding warranty.

I donít trust a dealer to install these properly, would much rather take them to a place who deals with this stuff day in and out.

Iím not bothered for the warranty on the parts, or paying to have them swapped out if something fails.

Iím more bothered about what would happen if an edc damper failed and I took it into the dealer to claim, would they throw the claim out on the damper because the springs were installed by an Indy?

Cheers
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      10-20-2018, 01:46 AM   #2205
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Originally Posted by Tinilp View Post
Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.
Dear god! It may be time to retire to Hawaii and open a BMW performance shop!
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      10-21-2018, 11:45 PM   #2206
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So I finally had the dealer set the car at the height I originally requested, however I now feel like it's still about 5 mm too low. I'm wondering if I can accomplish this by slightly compressing the spring with a spring compressor to reduce the tension just enough to raise it 5 mm.

Why weren't you able to use only a spring compressor on both side?

Can I ask which specific spring compressor you used? I see cheap ones on ebay for less than $100... I probably wouldn't be comfortable using a cheap spring compressor to completely remove/install springs, however it may be all that is needed if the springs only need to be compressed a little bit. What do you think?

-
I'm finally getting it closer to what I like. For whatever reason I tried again and was able to successfully adjust both rear sides by about 5mm (higher). The car is still very clean, so no grime or dirt in the threads luckily... I raised both sides, used compressed air anyway, and it worked.

So after allowing it to fully settle and adjusting it twice:
OEM recommended setting: 633mm front / 626mm rear
Current setting: 628mm front / 622mm rear (-5mm front / -4mm rear)

I'm thinking I may lower both the front and rear a few more mm, however I'm going to wait on deciding until installing spacers up front. I've installed 10mm spacers in the rear, but I have not installed the 12mm spacers in the front as of yet (I'm deciding whether or not I want to make a set of small custom mud-flaps for the front to avoid road sh*t kicking up and hitting the rear fender and etc.).
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Last edited by figure99; 10-22-2018 at 11:38 PM..
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      11-20-2018, 06:37 AM   #2207
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Hello,

I'm new to this forum, but i have an 2016 M3 F80 Competition. I have installed the M retrofit suspension at a local garage, with a technician working there who has over 15 years of BMW experience. Worked before at a dealership, but now at a local garage.

I'm riding with the original styling 666 wheels, and 265/30 R20 in the front and 285/30 R20 in the rear. Original tyres sizes.

The garage has maximum lowered the car, i believe 20mm front & rear.

But i have a problem in the front, the tyre is hitting the suspesion. I have droven about 200m, and there is clearly a threadmark on the tyre. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Alignment is done after installation, also the (EDC) software update. Maybe not the required alignment, but "standard"?

I'm also running with Goodyear F1 AS3 tyres, not the recommended Michelin Supersports with BMW *Star* markers. Maybe that makes the difference?

Don't know where to look. Also contacted the local dealership, where i ordered the parts, but they are not quite helpful as the didn't do the installation.
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      11-20-2018, 07:17 AM   #2208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figure99 View Post
I'm finally getting it closer to what I like. For whatever reason I tried again and was able to successfully adjust both rear sides by about 5mm (higher). The car is still very clean, so no grime or dirt in the threads luckily... I raised both sides, used compressed air anyway, and it worked.

So after allowing it to fully settle and adjusting it twice:
OEM recommended setting: 633mm front / 626mm rear
Current setting: 628mm front / 622mm rear (-5mm front / -4mm rear)

I'm thinking I may lower both the front and rear a few more mm, however I'm going to wait on deciding until installing spacers up front. I've installed 10mm spacers in the rear, but I have not installed the 12mm spacers in the front as of yet (I'm deciding whether or not I want to make a set of small custom mud-flaps for the front to avoid road sh*t kicking up and hitting the rear fender and etc.).
You don't have mounted the spacers in the front? Which tyre brand/size do you have? I'm having problems with the tyres who are scraping against the suspension.
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      12-26-2018, 01:15 PM   #2209
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So I should be getting this kit installed soon. One question I have is why the height for the 20 inch wheels is higher than for 18 and 19. When looking at the dimension tables in the PDF, has a bigger x dimension jump from 19 to 20 (19mm f, 18mm r) than from 18 to 19 ( 13mm f, 13 mm r). 13 sounds correct since 1/2 in increase for half rim diameter increase to the x dimension is 12.7 mm.

If my math is right, this puts the car 6.6 mm higher in the front and 5.6 mm higher in the rear if they base it off 20 in rims than 19 in rims.
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      12-26-2018, 08:06 PM   #2210
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So another quick question, I measured my stock car, and I get front 652mm front and 622 rear on 20” rims. Based on the PDF, should be 633 front, 626 rear after install. So will end up 19 lower in front, but actually 4 higher in the rear. Does this make sense, or will end up about the same in the back when settled? Car just has 300 miles on it.
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      12-27-2018, 10:08 AM   #2211
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CRRobert

You're over analyzing the height setting which can be adjusted at any time. Though the rear can be a PITA. Add some beta link or something that can help grip between the car and the top of the metal piece of the rear kit to help keep it from spinning when/if you plan to adjust it.

My assumption is the difference in drops is due to the aesthetics of the rear fenders on the M3 which will make you look like you have more of a sunk suspension look the larger your wheels/smaller your tires are.

I recommend you drop the front all the way and drop the rear with around 1/3 of an inch space threaded space between the top and the adjuster screw.

These are the drops I eventually went to after my springs settled. The front was easy but the rears took some work which I am hoping to save you from experiencing.
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      12-27-2018, 11:39 AM   #2212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRRobert View Post
So another quick question, I measured my stock car, and I get front 652mm front and 622 rear on 20" rims. Based on the PDF, should be 633 front, 626 rear after install. So will end up 19 lower in front, but actually 4 higher in the rear. Does this make sense, or will end up about the same in the back when settled? Car just has 300 miles on it.
It's possible the new car hasn't fully settled yet, but regardless I wouldn't over think it. Best thing about a HAS kit is it's adjustable to your liking. See my car from a few posts above... I'm 5mm and 4mm lower than BMW recommendations in the front and rear respectively and I will probably go a little lower come spring.

Also, if at all possible use beta link or some adhesive to secure the top part for the rear springs. It will make adjustment significantly easier! If you're using a dealer for the install they probably will not do this since it's not explicitly stated in BMW instructions unfortunately. Good luck!
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      12-27-2018, 07:58 PM   #2213
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I guess that is the engineer in me, as I created a spreadsheet to compare to my currently dropped 340ix to what the M3 will end up at with the various settings, etc.

thanks for the advice and what you guys have experienced.
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      12-27-2018, 11:03 PM   #2214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRRobert View Post
I guess that is the engineer in me, as I created a spreadsheet to compare to my currently dropped 340ix to what the M3 will end up at with the various settings, etc.

thanks for the advice and what you guys have experienced.
No problem, I can totally relate... I'm an engineer as well. I 3D printed a tool to help quickly measure the wheel height. It helped me select a height before adjustment and confirming it while adjusting it.
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      01-01-2019, 09:03 AM   #2215
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Hi guys. How good is this kit for tracking? Is it a substantial improvement over stock ZCP? Iím debating between MPHAS vs coilovers. Preparing the car for track season. Main goals: lower the ugly front, stiffen up suspension, improve bodyroll and handling in turns. Also what are the realistic installation costs? Iíve read through the thread and some pay $600, others pay $1600. That is a crazy difference. Iím in the northeast. Thank you for advise.
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      01-01-2019, 08:42 PM   #2216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMOR View Post
Hi guys. How good is this kit for tracking? Is it a substantial improvement over stock ZCP? Iím debating between MPHAS vs coilovers. Preparing the car for track season. Main goals: lower the ugly front, stiffen up suspension, improve bodyroll and handling in turns. Also what are the realistic installation costs? Iíve read through the thread and some pay $600, others pay $1600. That is a crazy difference. Iím in the northeast. Thank you for advise.
I installed the kit at the same time that I put on Ground Control camber plates and loved the results at the track. The lower center of gravity and better turn-in on corners was substantial. And, the HAS kit is under warranty.
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      01-01-2019, 09:01 PM   #2217
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I installed the kit at the same time that I put on Ground Control camber plates and loved the results at the track. The lower center of gravity and better turn-in on corners was substantial. And, the HAS kit is under warranty.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm actually leaning towards MPHAS. I assume that a full coil-over system will give better results, but having the suspension under warranty is more important in my opinion. I got a dedicated track set of HRE wheels 18x10 ET25 and will be running a square setup with 275/35 NT01 tires to be able to rotate them. How much was the installation for you? Is the bodyroll and overall stability improved with MPHAS compared to stock ZCP? And do I really need those camber plates? I'm assuming to have 12-15 track days per season.
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      01-01-2019, 09:55 PM   #2218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMOR View Post
Thanks for the feedback! I'm actually leaning towards MPHAS. I assume that a full coil-over system will give better results, but having the suspension under warranty is more important in my opinion. I got a dedicated track set of HRE wheels 18x10 ET25 and will be running a square setup with 275/35 NT01 tires to be able to rotate them. How much was the installation for you? Is the bodyroll and overall stability improved with MPHAS compared to stock ZCP? And do I really need those camber plates? I'm assuming to have 12-15 track days per season.
I already replied to most of your queries in the PM you sent me. It seems like you'll keep on asking until you get the answer you want . If you've already made up your mind, just do it .

As I replied in the PM: camber plates are a must, especially with 12-15 track days per year and with NT01; lowering springs or coilovers certainly are not.

No one has been able to confirm the spring rates of the MP-HAS thus far. However, the consensus seems to be that they have the same rates as the CP springs. The improved grip and reduced roll is the result of the lowered center of gravity that results less weight transfer.
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      01-01-2019, 11:52 PM   #2219
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I already replied to most of your queries in the PM you sent me. It seems like you'll keep on asking until you get the answer you want . If you've already made up your mind, just do it .

As I replied in the PM: camber plates are a must, especially with 12-15 track days per year and with NT01; lowering springs or coilovers certainly are not.

No one has been able to confirm the spring rates of the MP-HAS thus far. However, the consensus seems to be that they have the same rates as the CP springs. The improved grip and reduced roll is the result of the lowered center of gravity that results less weight transfer.
Iíve read through your PM carefully, it was very informative and thank you again! Still trying to figure out certain things. So camber plates can be used with stock suspension setup also? And they affect handling too or just made to help tires wear evenly?
As for MPHAS, if they have the same rates as CP then I might go another route. I have 2 front eibach lowering springs that were planned to be installed before I found out about MPHAS. I can try installing them first to lower center of gravity and see how the handling changes? They are a little softer than stock CP springs though.
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      01-02-2019, 08:43 AM   #2220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMOR View Post
I’ve read through your PM carefully, it was very informative and thank you again! Still trying to figure out certain things. So camber plates can be used with stock suspension setup also? And they affect handling too or just made to help tires wear evenly?
As for MPHAS, if they have the same rates as CP then I might go another route. I have 2 front eibach lowering springs that were planned to be installed before I found out about MPHAS. I can try installing them first to lower center of gravity and see how the handling changes? They are a little softer than stock CP springs though.
Yes, camber plates can be used on the otherwise stock suspension, that's what I ran on my previous E46 and E92. And yes, camber plates will provide different handling with more responsive turn-in characteristics, but the main benefit they provide is improved front tire wear.

I'd say the component that needs the most improvement on the vast majority of F8X is the one that resides between the seat and the steering wheel. The only way to improve that component is with more seat/track time .

The stock suspension is quite capable out of the box. Suspension tuning is a very complex and fine art, it is quite easy to actually make things worse. For instance, just chaging the front springs is not a smart idea that will upset the handling balance of the car. A stiffer suspension is not necessarily better either, it just depends what compromise you are after. In general terms, a stiffer suspension improves handling response while a softer suspension improves total grip. Lowering the car improves total grip by reducing weight transfer but reduces wheel travel, which can result in reduced grip under heavy bumps.

My car serves dual duty of DD and track. I am not willing to forego the convenience of the adaptive suspension, hence why lowering springs fit my bill. However, like I said previously, I did it mainly for cosmetics reasons, I did not feel the car absolutely needed them performance wise. And here again, it is acompromise. The MP-HAS combined the GC camber plates significatly increased NVH, which as taken some refinement away from the great stock CS suspension on the DD. If you wish to go the full coilover route, for sure, they will provide potentially better handling on the track but at the cost of a more jarring ride on the street. Further, depending on your experience level, it is quite likely you will not be able to really leverage the benefit they provide on track. I'd say the money is better spent towards more track time
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      01-02-2019, 11:14 AM   #2221
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I agree with the previous responses you received. In particular, if you are doing that many track days you do need the camber plates. Theyíll pay for themselves in reduced tire wear and youíll enjoy the improved turning.
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      01-02-2019, 11:31 AM   #2222
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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
Yes, camber plates can be used on the otherwise stock suspension, that's what I ran on my previous E46 and E92. And yes, camber plates will provide different handling with more responsive turn-in characteristics, but the main benefit they provide is improved front tire wear.

I'd say the component that needs the most improvement on the vast majority of F8X is the one that resides between the seat and the steering wheel. The only way to improve that component is with more seat/track time .

The stock suspension is quite capable out of the box. Suspension tuning is a very complex and fine art, it is quite easy to actually make things worse. For instance, just chaging the front springs is not a smart idea that will upset the handling balance of the car. A stiffer suspension is not necessarily better either, it just depends what compromise you are after. In general terms, a stiffer suspension improves handling response while a softer suspension improves total grip. Lowering the car improves total grip by reducing weight transfer but reduces wheel travel, which can result in reduced grip under heavy bumps.

My car serves dual duty of DD and track. I am not willing to forego the convenience of the adaptive suspension, hence why lowering springs fit my bill. However, like I said previously, I did it mainly for cosmetics reasons, I did not feel the car absolutely needed them performance wise. And here again, it is acompromise. The MP-HAS combined the GC camber plates significatly increased NVH, which as taken some refinement away from the great stock CS suspension on the DD. If you wish to go the full coilover route, for sure, they will provide potentially better handling on the track but at the cost of a more jarring ride on the street. Further, depending on your experience level, it is quite likely you will not be able to really leverage the benefit they provide on track. I'd say the money is better spent towards more track time
It is nice that you mentioned the importance of gasket between the seat and steering wheel, and I totally agree! I have a few years of professional go-kart racing experience back in the days when I was living in Europe, that helps a little. I'm pretty sure that the handling of CS suspension is marginally better than ZCP at the track. My car is DD too, I'm happy with it as a DD, and would like to keep the adaptive suspension also (hence my hesitation in regards to coil-overs) but at the track I'd like a little less bodyroll and better high speed stability. Here is a video of one of the track days from 2018 season:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb5fr42Q0V4

Back then I was running bone stock on stock pads also, stock 20" ZCP wheels and only upgraded tires to MP4S. But as you can see from the video even at Sport+ firmest suspension settings car is a bit bouncy in the corners (maybe due to higher stock ride as you mentioned). That is why I was thinking about MPHAS.

Now I'm preparing for 2019 season more seriously and so far got the following parts that are waiting to be installed:
- EBC yellow stuff pads front and rear (might upgrade to Pagid RS29 if I feel the need)
- Stoptech SS brake lines with Motul RBF 600 fluid. I'm not planning on getting the BBK kit and hope that stock Steel brake discs will hold on.
- HRE FF15 18-10 wheels and NT01 275/35-18 square setup (might upgrade to full slicks later on)
- Suspension wise so far I only got 2 front lowering springs Eibach PRO Kit (EU version, Part # F11-20-031-09-FA). I know about the balance issue and that I need to replace the rears too, but on this car stock rear sits nicely in terms of ride hight, it's just the front that is jacked up. So I was thinking in throwing the eibachs to the front only and see how it goes. Those 2 springs are only $160 compared to $1200 MPHAS setup. If i'm not happy with how handling is affected I can always upgrade to MPHAS, correct? But at least i'll try the least expensive option first.

Quote:
I agree with the previous responses you received. In particular, if you are doing that many track days you do need the camber plates. They’ll pay for themselves in reduced tire wear and you’ll enjoy the improved turning.
Added them to my list!

Last edited by AMOR; 01-02-2019 at 11:50 AM..
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