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      06-20-2020, 07:52 PM   #1
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Oil Drain Plug Stripped ... anyone use Time Sert?

Please provide feedback on Time Sert if you have any experience, thanks.

Did my first DIY oil change today, I went to remove the drain plug and noticed that there was a tiny amount of oil on it, then when i went to loosen it, I noticed that it was not tight, i looked at the threads and they seemed fine.

So I drained the oil, put the new washer then started tightening, seems like I was tightening forever and never getting resistance, so I tried to back it out, no luck - it kept spinning

I tried using a screwdriver to apply downward force on the bolt while turning with wrench, but no luck.

I figure I'll have to take it to a shop to see what my options are - I really want to avoid changing the oil pan, so I saw this time sert thing, but there's not much info on the f8x platform.
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      06-20-2020, 08:07 PM   #2
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I've used Time-Serts on projects with big wall thickness with great success. Seeing that you'll need to open up the drain port size regardless, I'd consider drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up if that will accommodate.
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      06-20-2020, 08:10 PM   #3
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I don't think a timesert would be the appropriate solution in this case. First thing I would do is try to chase the threads and see if that solves it. Otherwise the proper thing would be to swap the pan out.
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      06-20-2020, 08:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpreston033 View Post
I've used Time-Serts on projects with big wall thickness with great success. Seeing that you'll need to open up the drain port size regardless, I'd consider drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up if that will accommodate.
Thanks for the info, will look into it. The reviews on Amazon are promising, but I saw a post on here mentioning that the time sert wont work on an f8x
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      06-20-2020, 09:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allinon72 View Post
I don't think a timesert would be the appropriate solution in this case. First thing I would do is try to chase the threads and see if that solves it. Otherwise the proper thing would be to swap the pan out.
Who would have thought a simple screw and hole could be so complicated, there's all this stuff I never thought about, timing, pitch, now chase, I tried googling this but it's unclear, is this something a mechanic can do?
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      06-21-2020, 12:43 AM   #6
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Doubt timesert will work anyways its too thin. Even if you go to a bigger thread, You're going to have to drop the pain anyways to clean it. So, as mentioned you might as well replace the oil pan.
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      06-21-2020, 09:27 AM   #7
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I was in this exact situation. Had a timesert done at a BMW dealer and it worked for some time and developed a small oil leak at the plug overtime. I eventually had the pan replaced at a trusted shop.

It cost me just under $200 to get a timesert done. If you need a temporary fix then go this route but probably best to replace the pan.
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      06-21-2020, 10:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
I was in this exact situation. Had a timesert done at a BMW dealer and it worked for some time and developed a small oil leak at the plug overtime. I eventually had the pan replaced at a trusted shop.

It cost me just under $200 to get a timesert done. If you need a temporary fix then go this route but probably best to replace the pan.
Thanks rich this is what I was hoping for just want to buy sometime till I do the crank hub, was planning to do this early next year. I have a small leak in gasket so it has to be done anyways.
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      06-21-2020, 03:20 PM   #9
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Chase the threads with a proper tap and get a new drain plug and see if it works. The drain plug itself could be stripped but the pan might be saved. You'll have to probably drill the drain plug out as well. If you've never drilled out a fastener then I suggest you pay somebody to do it.
There's a slight learning curve
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      06-21-2020, 05:15 PM   #10
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Local guy did the same thing and had to get his pan replaced. Something about it being aluminum and thin walled makes it almost impossible to tap and thread successfully.
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      06-21-2020, 05:39 PM   #11
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Before you drop hundreds on a new pan. Def a few things you can try...

Go buy a tap for those threads. Work the tap up and down and make sure the threads are good. Buy a new drain plug. Try that first. If it doesn't work you can drill the threads out and install a fix a thread tapsert. Jb weld that fooker in there or red loctite lol.

You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work you're out the same money. However definitely drop the pan when you do this and verify no metal shavings are in there installed.
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      06-21-2020, 06:05 PM   #12
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OP, I feel for you, but as many have already alluded to, you may be looking at a new oil pan in your future for a permanent fix. But you may still may be able to get something to work with your existing pan. I had a similar issue as this as well. Below is a pic of the inside of the oil pan by the drain plug so you have an idea of what you are working with....



And if you are curious, yes that is my original oil pan with a magnetic drain plug that got stripped and stuck inside of the pan with only 5k miles on the car. I ultimately decided to have the dealer replace my pan with a new one. But if you are interested in an oil pan to experiment on, I will let my old pan go for real cheap (it is actually for sale now anyway...).

Oh yeah, dropping the oil pan on the F80 is apparently not trivial compared to other cars. It requires dropping the entire front sub frame to get it out....

Good luck.
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Last edited by jmciver; 06-21-2020 at 06:13 PM..
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      06-21-2020, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistm4 View Post
Before you drop hundreds on a new pan. Def a few things you can try...

Go buy a tap for those threads. Work the tap up and down and make sure the threads are good. Buy a new drain plug. Try that first. If it doesn't work you can drill the threads out and install a fix a thread tapsert. Jb weld that fooker in there or red loctite lol.

You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work you're out the same money. However definitely drop the pan when you do this and verify no metal shavings are in there installed.
Gonna try a few things, probably take it to a shop as I've done plenty diy but never anything like this, plus the bolt can't come out.

A new pan is a grand, not a few hundred. 😑 and I've read that it has to be shipped from Germany.

Doesn't the subframe have to be dropped to remove the oil pan? Which is a ton of work, don't think I can do this, if I gotta do this, might as well get a new pan no?
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      06-21-2020, 06:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
OP, I feel for you, but as many have already alluded to, you may be looking at a new oil pan in your future for a permanent fix. But you may still may be able to get something to work with your existing pan. I had a similar issue as this as well. Below is a pic of the inside of the oil pan by the drain plug so you have an idea of what you are working with....

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yv...-no?authuser=0[/IMG]

And if you are curious, yes that is my original oil pan with a magnetic drain plug that got stripped and stuck inside of the pan with only 5k miles on the car. I ultimately decided to have the dealer replace my pan with a new one. But if you are interested in an oil pan to experiment on, I will let my old pan go for real cheap (it is actually for sale now anyway...).

Oh yeah, dropping the oil pan on the F80 is apparently not trivial compared to other cars. It requires dropping the entire front sub frame to get it out....

Good luck.
I've scoured the entire internet about this issue, so I actually ran into your post, and considered the option
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      06-21-2020, 06:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
I've scoured the entire internet about this issue, so I actually ran into your post, and considered the option
Well, this pan has been sitting in my garage for the past 3 years now and I am ready for it to go . I figure it is only good for a special track car project or an experimentation situation like yours....
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      06-21-2020, 07:04 PM   #16
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https://www.amazon.com/M12-1-50-Sing.../dp/B0040CRVD8

This is a common problem in any car. They make the single oversize plugs specifically for that reason. Would definitely try it prior to spending 3k on installing a new oil pan. Good luck.
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      06-28-2020, 01:46 PM   #17
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Update: leaving this here incase anyone runs into this issue in the future. I got the time sert kit from amazon, part number 1215 , took it to an indy shop and he was able to get the bolt out and install the time sert, so far no leaks since yesterday, so hopefully I'm in good shape.
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      06-28-2020, 10:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
Update: leaving this here incase anyone runs into this issue in the future. I got the time sert kit from amazon, part number 1215 , took it to an indy shop and he was able to get the bolt out and install the time sert, so far no leaks since yesterday, so hopefully I'm in good shape.
Congrats, that's awesome news. Replacing the oil pan is a huge pain in these cars and will cost about 3k if done by a dealer. Hope the fix lasts. I've read a lot of good things about timeserts.
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      06-29-2020, 08:40 AM   #19
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how does this even happen in the first place? lol..
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      06-29-2020, 03:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
Update: leaving this here incase anyone runs into this issue in the future. I got the time sert kit from amazon, part number 1215 , took it to an indy shop and he was able to get the bolt out and install the time sert, so far no leaks since yesterday, so hopefully I'm in good shape.
Is this it?

https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Met.../dp/B001JK44D4
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      06-29-2020, 03:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f80er View Post
yes thats the one, day 3 and no leaks... think I'm good.
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      06-29-2020, 03:35 PM   #22
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Cool man hopefully it helps someone in the future.
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