DIY Lemon Yellow DRL Boards for ICON Headlights

[aa2033]

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage you may do to your vehicle, it's wiring, or any other part on it. I'm also not responsible for any bodily harm you stupidly do to yourself. This DIY is purely educational, and in attempting it you are doing so at your own risk.

This DIY is for the seemingly recent popular mod going around in changing the DRL's from white, to Lemon Yellow. These boards are available on AliExpress under the name of IceDrivers. I'm unsure if I am able to post the direct link per forum rules, but a quick search will find them. Make sure to choose the Lemon Yellow, as they have other color options. This applies to M3/M4's and I believe some M2's (do your own research on that). You must have ICON headlights, as I do not believe these fit pre-lci round DRL's. I may be wrong, but that's for you to research. This applies to ICONs with the DRL module on the top of the headlight.

I suggest wearing gloves the entire time to keep everything as oil free as possible.

Let's get started:

Locate your DRL modules on the top of your headlights. They are pictured below. They're held in by 3 T20 screws. They are screwed down into plastic, so they do not have much torque on them. The heat sink gets very hot, so if you've just driven your car, let them cool a little bit first.




Once you remove these two screws, lift upwards taking care to slide the module up and slightly at an angle as they are under a tab on the top of the headlight. The wiring for the LED boards are quite short, so do not pull up hard, lift slowly. The pics show about as much slack as you get. It's still enough to get your fingers in there to release the plugs. Pinch the plugs and release them from the LED boards, there are two. They're easy to release and will not need any special tools.




Once disconnected and removed, you will have a hole in the top of your headlight. Cover this with a microfiber, or a shop towel of some sort that is clean and free of debris or fuzzies. Don't want anything falling inside of your headlight. I opted for a shop towel with putting a tool on top so that it doesn't fall off.



Now take the module to your workbench of choice.



Looking at the photos below, you can see the factory thermal glue between the heat sink and the LED board. Next we need to separate the board from the aluminum heat sink.




The easiest way to separate them is to take a utility blade and wedge it between the heat sink and the board. do it in the center of the blade, and take a hammer and lightly tap on it, it will work its way down the back between the two surfaces and eventually release the board. light taps is all you need to work it slowly. You don't need to hit the blade hard, or you risk bending it, breaking it, and hurting yourself or gouging the aluminum. If you do this correctly, your LED board can be re used incase you decide to go back to factory.

WARNING if you rush, use a flat head screwdriver, or just get impatient with it, you will damage the boards, and if you do you'll need to buy DRL modules from BMW if you decide to go back to factory white DRLs.









You're doing great. The hardest part is over. Moving on to clean up and installation of the new boards.

Now you'll be left with your heat sink with no boards, and just old poorly applied thermal glue. To remove this, you'll need isopropyl alcohol, and a razor blade. Take your razor blade and scrape off the old material. Do this at an angle so you're not digging the blade into the aluminum heat sink. It should come off fairly easily. Again, angle the blade so you don't damage the heat sink. You should be able to remove 95% of the old material with the razor blade. You may not get all of it, but you can get most. Once you finish with the razor blade, wipe off and blow out the loose dry thermal glue that you've dropped into the heat sink. It's important to get it all out so you don't have any drop into your headlight when you go to reinstall them. Once you do this, then take a shop towel or lint free microfiber and put some isopropyl on it and wipe off the heat sinks. It's important to do this a few times to make sure there's no oils or debris left so that the new thermal glue has a clean surface to adhere to. You can also take 400grit sand paper and lightly scuff the surface and clean it with alcohol.







Next we are going to apply the new thermal glue to the boards, and clamp them down. For clamps i suggest mini spring clamps (68 cents each at home depot) or a 4" c clamp ($11 from home depot). I had no issues with the spring clamps. To apply the thermal glue, you want a thin but even coat on the back of the led boards. you don't need to go crazy with these. The thicker you go, the longer they take to dry. Go too thin and it wont help with temps, causing the leds to burn out faster. The easiest way to make sure the glue is even is with some kind of spreader. I suggest a plastic razor blade.




Importantly, you need thermal glue, not thermal paste. Thermal paste does not harden and your boards will just fall off. Thermal glue can be found on amazon fairly cheap.



When looking at your boards, you need to make sure you use the right one. The bigger boards are slightly different. Note the side of the board that the LEDs are on. Make sure you use right one!





Apply a line of thermal glue down the center of the back of the LED board. take your spreader tool and spread it across the back. You should have a thin, but well covered layer. The bottom of the aluminum board should not be visible anymore.




When putting the board on the heat sink, you're going to need to make sure the slots are centered and against the tabs on the heat sink. It's how you make sure the LED is in the right placement. While i dont think it's possible, dont put them in upside down either




I slid the LED board slightly on the heat sink to get rid of any microbubbles that may have formed, and then i pushed down evenly on the board. From there I took my mini spring clamp and applied it to the center and the edges. I would avoid putting it on the plug or any chips on the board.



Next we move to the smaller LED board. Same process.



Now you should have something like this. The boards installed, and clamps holding them down. Treat the thermal glue like silicone or caulk. It takes a while to dry. I recommend 24 hours. Just put it somewhere inside your house that is warm, and leave it alone. Don't even look at it. Just be patient and let it dry fully.




When your board is dry, remove your clamps and you'll have your finished product. Now we go to install it.

Insert picture of finished product here.

Installation is the reversal of the removal. Connect the boards, reinsert the module at an angle, and make sure the tubes inside the headlight did not move, and everything is how it should be. Reinstall your T20 torx screws. These are screwed into plastic, so do not impact them down, do not over tighten. Tighten until they stop, and then a half turn after that. The black gasket on the heat sink is foam and will form to the housing.

Turn your car on, and take a look and see what you think!









These instructions are the same for the other side. No reason for me to take duplicate photos for the other light.

I hope this helped you. If you have any questions. Feel free to post them and I'm happy to answer.

EDIT: Some night time photos from my S22+. I'll get my buddy with a real camera to take some photos for me one night. Sorry about the lack of social media influencer quality pictures.










Few additional notes:
These are about 95% as bright as the OEM white DRLs. They dim when you turn on your low beams, just like OEM. There are no dash errors for the aftermarket boards. Brightness isn't an issue.

If you don't want to disassemble your OEM DRLs, you can buy an extra OEM set from the dealer, they are around $170 each list. Alternatively you can buy a pair of aftermarket DRL modules with heat sinks on ebay or the like for around $130-150 a pair. The majority of the cost comes from the LED board. The heat sink is just aluminum. You can buy the aftermarket set and remove the led boards like the guide explains, and put the new ones on the same way. I haven't done this, so you'd be doing this as an experiment, but in theory, there's nothing wrong with it.

It's important that the board has the thermal glue applied evenly, and correctly. Heat is the #1 killer of LEDs, and remember these aren't OEM quality, they're still aftermarket. We want to make sure we can extend the life of them as long as possible.

If you need them, here are the OEM DRL module PN's for ICON headlights. Verify that you have the same boards as the guide.

[Danlnyc88]

I'd love to see a RGB version of the install with the extra wiring.

RGB modules have been out for 2-3 years now. I still have a set I never got around to install.

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by Danlnyc88

I'd love to see a RGB version of the install with the extra wiring.

RGB modules have been out for 2-3 years now. I still have a set I never got around to install.

I've done it. I ended up selling it because the RGB version isn't as bright as OEM, and i just ended up not being a RGB person. The install is basically the same for the boards, you just have extra wires. Then you have to connect the harness and bluetooth module to switched power. There is a switched power source in the engine bay fuse box on the passenger side, the problem is with a add a fuse, you can't put the fusebox cover back on. The only real option is to cut it or leave it off, which I wasn't going to do. So I ended up running a positive wire to the trunk and using a switched power source back there. Then you just run the wiring harness from the boards to the RGB controller which has a QR code on the back of it for you to download an app to control the RGB. The RGB version does not get controlled by the switch in the car at all, its by the app and when the car is on or off. you won't have it turn on with your welcome lights either.

You also have the issue of when you disconnect the OEM boards, you dont use that stock wiring for the RGB. You use a small heat sink and put it on the factory boards, then reconnect them and tuck them back into the headlight, leaving them loose, which is another thing i didnt like. Then you turn off the DRL function in iDrive and it will prevent a dash error. Or you just leave them disconnected and you have a dash error.

The wire from the RGB boards gets pinched between the headlight housing and the foam gasket of the heat sink. It doesnt put a ton of pressure on it, and the foam gasket seals around the wiring to prevent water to get in. You can kind of see it in my pictures below.

[Rokoz]

Seen these going around! Thanks for sharing - I think it looks good on dark color cars. I'm not so sure it'd look good on white haha

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by Rokoz

Seen these going around! Thanks for sharing - I think it looks good on dark color cars. I'm not so sure it'd look good on white haha

I actually think it would look pretty good. There's an amber version that would look too. I think lemon would be pretty good on white though.

[JAI///M3]

Great write up! Thanks for sharing this.

[Danlnyc88]

Thanks for the reply! Looks great and thanks for the awesome write up

[KACHM3]

[DaiLyCS]

Got mine done last week also
Super easy for f8x and yellow is the best looking one, oem plus like csl

Just make sure to wear thick glove to protect yourself

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by KACHM3

[]https://youtu.be/-E9Ub961eq0[/]

There's a bit of bad information in this video. Don't use JB weld. Don't use thermal paste. Remove the boards with a razor blade, not a flat head. Also he claims that the boards are test products, which they aren't.

I wouldn't follow the majority of those instructions. Also I can't deal with all the b-roll and sponsor pushing.

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by DaiLyG80

Got mine done last week also
Super easy for f8x and yellow is the best looking one, oem plus like csl

Just make sure to wear thick glove to protect yourself

Looks so good on blue. Looks awesome!

[Nyc911]

Just completed this as well

I ended up buying an extra set of DRLs in case I need to wanted to go back to stock.

Pretty straight forward following this guide was very helpful!!

I found a razor blade some light taping worked the best to remove the boards.

Adding some pics for the AW crowd

[DaiLyCS]

Originally Posted by Nyc911

Just completed this as well

I ended up buying an extra set of DRLs in case I need to wanted to go back to stock.

Pretty straight forward following this guide was very helpful!!

I found a razor blade some light taping worked the best to remove the boards.

Adding some pics for the AW crowd

Nice look pretty clean on white too
How you like it. As you know I love mine

[aa2033]

Wasn't feeling the yellow on sakhir orange. Changed to Amber boards. Looks pretty good.

[DaiLyCS]

Originally Posted by aa2033

Wasn't feeling the yellow on sakhir orange. Changed to Amber boards. Looks pretty good.

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Orange vs yellow

[coldsoup]

Awesome DIY!
Thank you for sharing.
I asked another forum member a few months back and he didn't want to share any details, fruitcake with tiny hands.
You, on the other hand, mad props brother. I appreciate you.

[GuyLedouche]

Originally Posted by aa2033

There's a bit of bad information in this video. Don't use JB weld. Don't use thermal paste. Remove the boards with a razor blade, not a flat head. Also he claims that the boards are test products, which they aren't.

I wouldn't follow the majority of those instructions. Also I can't deal with all the b-roll and sponsor pushing.

It's all good. Just use your pick tool and scalpel. Or screwdriver and putty knife.

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by coldsoup

Awesome DIY!
Thank you for sharing.
I asked another forum member a few months back and he didn't want to share any details, fruitcake with tiny hands.
You, on the other hand, mad props brother. I appreciate you.

Happy to contribute. Thank you for the kind words!

[paulo_f80m3]

Wish I could do this with my pre-lci LED's. Looking good guys!

[SYT_Shadow]

I love this work, awesome

Now someone do it for the prelci headlighta!!

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I love this work, awesome

Now someone do it for the prelci headlighta!!

Yeah, this mod peaked my interest, too. But I was disappointed after some more research that it does not seem possible on the pre-Icon adaptive LEDs that came on my '17 F80. Yet if you have the older F8x Xenon's, there is an upgrade option so go figure . I couldn't even find the DRL module on these lights, at least not based on the descriptions in the BMW parts catalog.

However, I did find what might be the DRL module for these headlight variants. But if it is, BMW does not apparently sell the part separately (at least I could not find it), which would partly explain why there is not an aftermarket solution for these headlight variants..

[jmciver]

So my peaked interest had me dig a bit deeper and I took a closer look at my lights to try to better identify the DRL module. Good news is that I am very confident now that I found them. Bad news is that it looks to be a noteworthy PITA to get to them. If you look close at the top of the halo rings you can see a small tube coming off each halo ring which is the LED light source for the rings.

For one thing, there appear to be at least two of them per headlight, one for each halo ring. One module is accessible from inside the headlight (the inner halo ring). The other looks to be accessible from outside the headlight and is located above the turn signal LED module. See attached pics below, first pic is the inner halo ring. The heat sinks are what I think are the DRL LED modules.

Removal of the headlights does not seem to be absolutely necessary, but would make removal/installation of the DRL LED modules much easier. I actually would not mind attempting such a DIY, but I have absolutely zero skills good enough when it comes to soldering new LEDs to a circuit board, let alone properly identifying the correct LEDs to use…