MCS 2w/3w how to route canisters

[stevehifi]

Hi Guys,

Looking at MCS 2w/2w with remote canister. I saw on a post that there is a way to route the front canister behind liner through some opening (underneath air box). - can you confirm? From what I've seen the opening with brakes lines is too small. Also can you recommend mounting point? (zip tie on carbon brace?)

For the rear it looks like there is an opening behind the liner at the edge of the car going back.

Any pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

Hi Guys,

Looking at MCS 2w/2w with remote canister. I saw on a post that there is a way to route the front canister behind liner through some opening (underneath air box). - can you confirm? From what I've seen the opening with brakes lines is too small. Also can you recommend mounting point? (zip tie on carbon brace?)

For the rear it looks like there is an opening behind the liner at the edge of the car going back.

Any pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

Do you have Quick Disconnects for the reservoirs? It would be difficult to route the canisters without them. If you have QDs, then it'll route through the brake line hole easily. I recommend taking out the airboxes while you do this. They're easy to remove and will result in less cursing.

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by x.shell

Do you have Quick Disconnects for the reservoirs? It would be difficult to route the canisters without them. If you have QDs, then it'll route through the brake line hole easily. I recommend taking out the airboxes while you do this. They're easy to remove and will result in less cursing.

I haven't bought them yet, just wondering if you can route them without the QDs.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

I haven't bought them yet, just wondering if you can route them without the QDs.

Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure you can even buy them without the QDs. The canisters won't fit through the spindles anyways.

If you plan on doing the install yourself, be sure to get a Nitrogen recharge tank as you need to discharge the reservoir every time you disconnect the QD. I was thinking of just driving it to a shop after installing, but I'm super glad I got the recharge tank. I've used it many times already.

Also, for the rear (whether you get QD or not), be sure to get as long of a hose as you can. It's nice to have the extra length to mount the reservoirs wherever you want in the trunk.

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by x.shell

Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure you can even buy them without the QDs. The canisters won't fit through the spindles anyways.

If you plan on doing the install yourself, be sure to get a Nitrogen recharge tank as you need to discharge the reservoir every time you disconnect the QD. I was thinking of just driving it to a shop after installing, but I'm super glad I got the recharge tank. I've used it many times already.

Also, for the rear (whether you get QD or not), be sure to get as long of a hose as you can. It's nice to have the extra length to mount the reservoirs wherever you want in the trunk.

how much did you spend on the tank and regulator? Do you happen to have part numbers or links to where you purchased it?

[bmpclc]

you will need QDs F&R. Run the lines behind the wheel liners.

Front canister does not go through spindles.
Rear with QD are able to poke through rubber cover on both sides.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by bmpclc

you will need QDs F&R. Run the lines behind the wheel liners.

Front canister does not go through spindles.
Rear with QD are able to poke through rubber cover on both sides.

Although it is useful to have QDs on the rear, people have said they're not needed. As there is a removable vent in the trunk that can fit the whole canister through; this is the same for the E9X.

Regardless, I do recommend getting the QDs for the rear as well. They're just really nice to have when installing.

Also, I wish I could mount my front canisters where you did. If you have the LCI LED lights, there's no way it could mount there due to the cooling fins.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

how much did you spend on the tank and regulator? Do you happen to have part numbers or links to where you purchased it?

Check out this thread.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1795902


I ended up buying a kit that some in Buena Park made (close to you).

http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Nitr...itrogenkit.htm

Just call him and ask for a Nitro Recharge Kit. The shop was some obscure machine shop or something. I think he makes these on the side upon request. In any case, it worked great and the parts used are nice. No payment needed until you go pick it up.

[bmpclc]

Originally Posted by x.shell

Although it is useful to have QDs on the rear, people have said they're not needed. As there is a removable vent in the trunk that can fit the whole canister through; this is the same for the E9X.

Regardless, I do recommend getting the QDs for the rear as well. They're just really nice to have when installing.

Also, I wish I could mount my front canisters where you did. If you have the LCI LED lights, there's no way it could mount there due to the cooling fins.

YA, I have the pre LCI LED.
it would be much easier without factory air box.
extra 1-2 hrs just to decide where to mount those canisters.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by bmpclc

YA, I have the pre LCI LED.
it would be much easier without factory air box.
extra 1-2 hrs just to decide where to mount those canisters.

I hear ya. What made matters worse for me was that I wanted to keep my stock airboxes AND I have an Oil Catch Can, so space was so tight. I ended up removing the rubber seats for the airboxes, so I can lower them a bit.

[stevehifi]

So is it a problem to mount the canisters on the carbon strut bar? (Hitting the hood?) I have a 2017 would the canisters sit fine near the lights?

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

So is it a problem to mount the canisters on the carbon strut bar? (Hitting the hood?) I have a 2017 would the canisters sit fine near the lights?

I don't think the canisters hit the hood, but it's pretty close. That's not the issue I have with the position though. When you attach it to the brace, it just gets really hot due to the proximity of the engine itself. Occasionally, I open the hood after a drive and touch the canisters — on several occasions, they've been very very hot to the touch. I've never sensed a drop in performance though.

That being said, I'm gonna try to find a different mounting solution.

[SYT_Shadow]

On my CS, also LCI of course, have foam pads between the CF reinforcement and the canisters. My canisters are almost under the reinforcement, so no danger of hitting the hood

Not sure where else they could go up front

[stevehifi]

and the rears - do you really need QD or can you snake the canisters through some vents in the rear to get into the trunk?

[sly1types]

You want the quick disconnects front and rear, the rear you have to option them. Pull the front fernder liner down a little and it's easy to route them, the rear is a little harder but there are 2 holes that you can come through and then get these grommets

If you try to come in the rear vents the hoses aren't long enough to mount them anywhere.

[sly1types]

Here are the grommets

[Keebin]

Originally Posted by x.shell

I don't think the canisters hit the hood, but it's pretty close. That's not the issue I have with the position though. When you attach it to the brace, it just gets really hot due to the proximity of the engine itself. Occasionally, I open the hood after a drive and touch the canisters — on several occasions, they've been very very hot to the touch. I've never sensed a drop in performance though.

That being said, I'm gonna try to find a different mounting solution.

i have the same issues you have i wound up mounting mine to my brace same location and they get really hot. i think it wears out the seals faster if anything. im planning on either wrapping them in heat tape or creating something in cad that can shield them from heat.

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by sly1types

You want the quick disconnects front and rear, the rear you have to option them. Pull the front fernder liner down a little and it's easy to route them, the rear is a little harder but there are 2 holes that you can come through and then get these grommets

If you try to come in the rear vents the hoses aren't long enough to mount them anywhere.

Thanks so it looks like near the headlights is a sure bet for the canisters to avoid heat.

So there's no way to run the rear canister through the battery vent (won't fit)?
Was planning on mounting on the upper part of the trunk with some brackets

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

Thanks so it looks like near the headlights is a sure bet for the canisters to avoid heat.

So there's no way to run the rear canister through the battery vent (won't fit)?
Was planning on mounting on the upper part of the trunk with some brackets

I have QD in the rear as well, but I think you could snake in the canister in the rear

With a lci car i don't think you have the option of the headlights

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

Hi Guys,

Looking at MCS 2w/2w with remote canister. I saw on a post that there is a way to route the front canister behind liner through some opening (underneath air box). - can you confirm? From what I've seen the opening with brakes lines is too small. Also can you recommend mounting point? (zip tie on carbon brace?)

For the rear it looks like there is an opening behind the liner at the edge of the car going back.

Any pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

Hope all is well…feel free to come by check the setup out on my car.

Car is up in the air…right now.

Fronts, very unlikely to route without QD
Rears, with some minor fab, yes you can…but far more convenient to just do with QD

Nitrogen setup cost me $200 with tank, hose, regulator…I pay $30 to have refilled (once a year)

Here is my install thread from a few years back

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1184964

[bmpclc]

image show the Rubber plug that line goes through. It's was easy & water proof. Plug are on both side of the fender.
Length of the line are able to reach rear deck if that's where u want to mount your cans. Side mount was just easy to do with zip ties & 4 tiny holes on the panel.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by stevehifi

So is it a problem to mount the canisters on the carbon strut bar? (Hitting the hood?) I have a 2017 would the canisters sit fine near the lights?

On more thing.

Corsa Motorsport did a couple feature videos on their shop M4 with JRZ RS Pro3 suspension. You can see that they mounted their canisters on the aluminum brace near the wipers. You would have to remove or modify the plastic in guards that covers the area.

Personally, I don't know how they fit it there. I tried and I swear the hood was hitting the canisters. But I'm gonna try to get it to fit there again. It's separated from the engine and insulated by a partition.