F80/F82 high mileage

[flex_340]

Im thinking of picking up an m3/m4 in the near future and wanted to know if it would be okay to go for a high mileage (60-70k) one with no accidents and good maintenance history. I would probably put around 15ish thousand miles on it per year.

[WhiteFox]

Yes totally fine but if you are going to put 15k a year on 60-70k car just note the resell value will drop a fair amount. Also after 100k there is maintenance to think about

[phefner]

Bought mine 18 months ago with 50K miles, 2016 6MT. About a dozen track days and 20,000 miles later, still loves to pull.

2 items caught me by surprise and I’d suggest you investigate if they’ve been handled.

First are the acceleration sensors. Cost me about $750 to have a shop do both sets on the car.

Second, the rear diff bushing. I upgraded the bushings and took advantage of the unused mounting point, allowing me to add an additional bushing. Turner MotorSports has a nice upgrade kit. It’s a big job. Indy shop did it, parts and labor, for around $2500.

Other than those 2 items, the car is easy to work on and a blast to drive.

[An20Olives]

Originally Posted by phefner

Bought mine 18 months ago with 50K miles, 2016 6MT. About a dozen track days and 20,000 miles later, still loves to pull.

2 items caught me by surprise and I’d suggest you investigate if they’ve been handled.

First are the acceleration sensors. Cost me about $750 to have a shop do both sets on the car.

Second, the rear diff bushing. I upgraded the bushings and took advantage of the unused mounting point, allowing me to add an additional bushing. Turner MotorSports has a nice upgrade kit. It’s a big job. Indy shop did it, parts and labor, for around $2500.

Other than those 2 items, the car is easy to work on and a blast to drive.

I’ve just crossed 50k when would you say these went out on you?

[phefner]

Sensors were first and we had about 55k on the clock. Zero warning. Just through a Chassis Malfunction Driving Permitted error when I was braking into turn 1 at Road America.

I noticed a crack in the rear diff bushing at about 60k. I had them replace all the bushings and subframe bolts.

[5ABIVT]

im at 136k km daily driven through winter. vslve cover squeal at about 95k , waterpump grenaded at 110k and a right lower control arm giving a bit of a vibration when leaning to the left (turning right). all easy diy at home. less than $1500 in repairs over 5 years so far. best daily ive ever had

[scroller]

Hello,

What is your opinion about 2014 M4 with automatic gearbox with 70k. kilometers i have read online in the threads that the biggest issue is with Crank Hub Failure if you start to tune it is it true?If the car is stock and you don't even modify it is it true that the vehicle will don't have any problems with the Crank Hub?If the previous owner has changed the oil regularly and the car full service history in the bmw dealership. What kind of noises i need to listen when the car is on cold start and when the car is driving for potential issues. This is my first time buying a M car and i don't what kind of questions or threads to trust about the cars what's the difference between LCI and pre-lci in the engines and the electronics is it worth to buy a LCI, because every LCI version of the bmw has some issues solved by the previous years? Does the car with these kilometers have to have already beaten pistons or something else on the engine?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by scroller

Hello,

What is your opinion about 2014 M4 with automatic gearbox with 70k. kilometers i have read online in the threads that the biggest issue is with Crank Hub Failure if you start to tune it is it true?If the car is stock and you don't even modify it is it true that the vehicle will don't have any problems with the Crank Hub?If the previous owner has changed the oil regularly and the car full service history in the bmw dealership. What kind of noises i need to listen when the car is on cold start and when the car is driving for potential issues. This is my first time buying a M car and i don't what kind of questions or threads to trust about the cars what's the difference between LCI and pre-lci in the engines and the electronics is it worth to buy a LCI, because every LCI version of the bmw has some issues solved by the previous years? Does the car with these kilometers have to have already beaten pistons or something else on the engine?

The s55 is a solid engine, one of the best from BMW M. The F80 chassis is solid as well. 70k km is still relatively low mileage. PCV failure is common and it makes a loud hissing sound and goes away if you remove the oil cap. Rear diff bushing fail and the mileage varies so it’s just something you’ll need to check periodically. You’ll have maintenance costs when you hit 160k km (100k miles). I have a gts tune on my ‘16 and I’ve never once thought about the crank hub when I’m driving my car. I think the crank hub is blown out of proportion. If it bothers you then spend the $2-3k to address it. F80 LCI1 in 2016 added new taillights and Idrive system. LCI2 in 2018 added ICON headlight option. Mechanically and electronically the cars are identical. Around 2017 BMW did change the torque curve by raising the RPM to improve driveability but, tbh, I prefer the lower torque peak and have no driveability issues. 70k km is low mileage and you’ll get another 70-90k km easily if you just keep up with routine and preventative maintenance.