Just Blew My Motor... Need Advice

[Groot]

Take my running motor for 6k 71k miles, or 8k with the dct. Everything should be plug and play. I have a listing on this.

[jfritz27]

Sorry to hear about this.... sounds like you've got a good solution lining up, good luck

[Wanted_M]

I'd upgrade head studs if you're going to push HP to that level. Everything else sounds good.

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

I'd upgrade head studs if you're going to push HP to that level. Everything else sounds good.

Thanks for the insight. I won't be making anything over 700 probably (definitely nothing over 750, ever). That's my cutoff. I think that's within safe limits of factory head studs especially since people are doing more on stock motor.

The motor is already all put together waiting for me or else upgrading them would be something I'd consider.
Just got EU5's for 500 installed + coded as well (with only 500 miles on them)
I also mentioned in my other thread that I'm getting freshly rebuilt pure s2+'s for 3k

Once the motor is in the process of getting installed I'll give you guys details on what I'm paying for everything else.

[DeTh]

Updated the first post for formatting, pictures, and more detailed insight on the information that I feel comfortable sharing at this time.

[M3SQRD]

Nice find! Although having an engine blow is not a great experience, it appears you’ve found a nicely built engine + all the goodies to easily obtain your power goals.

[DeTh]

Well - the engine is real! Got this for an insane deal (will share once it's installed and running, lol). I was told I got this at cost. 0 miles.

My friend picked it up and has it sitting at his house awaiting my arrival in Miami.

[SilleM3]

Congratulations. Are you going to keep your turbos? They are probably toast. Oil cooler as well with all those shavings in them?

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by SilleM3

Congratulations. Are you going to keep your turbos? They are probably toast. Oil cooler as well with all those shavings in them?

I'm upgrading to Pures.
I pulled my oil filter and there were almost 0 metal shavings. I think that because of how quickly I shut off the motor (around 8 seconds after the failure), it would have spared significant shaving contamination with the rest of the components. Plus the fact that all of the oil exited the bottom of the engine instead of recirculating. The oil pickup took the brunt of the impact.
I will have the shop take a glance at the cooler but I'm thinking it will be ok

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by DeTh

I'm upgrading to Pures.
I pulled my oil filter and there were almost 0 metal shavings. I think that because of how quickly I shut off the motor (around 8 seconds after the failure), it would have spared significant shaving contamination with the rest of the components. Plus the fact that all of the oil exited the bottom of the engine instead of recirculating. The oil pickup took the brunt of the impact.
I will have the shop take a glance at the cooler but I'm thinking it will be ok

I would get a new oil cooler or have it hot flushed.

from that one picture, looks like it was a wrist pin, so it might have been super lean or a spun rod bearing?

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by sly1types

I would get a new oil cooler or have it hot flushed.

from that one picture, looks like it was a wrist pin, so it might have been super lean or a spun rod bearing?

I will look into replacing the oil cooler. I reached out to the shop and will let him take discretion if he wants me to replace it or if it can just be flushed. I told him either way, they're only $120 new. Rather be safe than sorry.

Yeah, its a wrist pin. It could definitely be a rod bearing, or from it being lean (injector getting stuck closed). I plan to send the injectors off to get flow tested once the engine is pulled out to see if that was the reason.

I may not do a full disassembly on the bottom end (and with the carnage, we may not even be able to tell if it spinning was the original cause, or happened when the wrist pin decided to see what the outside world looked like). I plan to turn the block into a coffee table since I'm assuming its unusable.

I also will probably be switching tuners. As much as I don't think Cary is to blame for this (if it is injector failure I will update thread accordingly), I'm not sure if I trust myself to keep tuning with him. We will see.

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by DeTh

I will look into replacing the oil cooler. I reached out to the shop and will let him take discretion if he wants me to replace it or if it can just be flushed. I told him either way, they're only $120 new. Rather be safe than sorry.

Yeah, its a wrist pin. It could definitely be a rod bearing, or from it being lean (injector getting stuck closed). I plan to send the injectors off to get flow tested once the engine is pulled out to see if that was the reason.

I may not do a full disassembly on the bottom end (and with the carnage, we may not even be able to tell if it spinning was the original cause, or happened when the wrist pin decided to see what the outside world looked like). I plan to turn the block into a coffee table since I'm assuming its unusable.

I also will probably be switching tuners. As much as I don't think Cary is to blame for this (if it is injector failure I will update thread accordingly), I'm not sure if I trust myself to keep tuning with him. We will see.

Did you get any lean codes? I lost an injector at the track this last summer when running ethanol towards the end of a session. I got a #112601 injector cyl 6 activation line break, so i got pretty lucky.

You could also have dropped a valve, but that's not very common on these engines either...

best of luck

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by sly1types

Did you get any lean codes? I lost an injector at the track this last summer when running ethanol towards the end of a session. I got a #112601 injector cyl 6 activation line break, so i got pretty lucky.

You could also have dropped a valve, but that's not very common on these engines either...

best of luck

No DSC/popups at the initial time of the failure. Didn't get any check engine lights or anything on my iDrive. Scanned the car with BM3 and regular DSC menu right after the failure and no codes.
I've tried numerous times to read the full DME codes with BM3 (same thing in the past), and its failed every time.

If anyone has any advice for how I can fix this, thanks.

[G35POPPEDMYCHERRY]

holy fuck he threw a rod:?

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by G35POPPEDMYCHERRY

holy fuck he threw a rod:?

Yuuup

[DeTh]

And so it begins

[DeTh]

Motor is out! Ended up having a hole in the top of the block that damaged what I think is the hpfp vacuum pump? Whatever the lift kit replaces is what cracked.

[b_w.]

That's wild! Looks like you will be running again soon!

[bvrider1]

Do you plan on sticking with E85? Just curious if you bought another daily driver. Awesome build you got going.

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by b_w.

That's wild! Looks like you will be running again soon!

I really hope so. The turbos just got to Pure in California. I gave them a call and they said it's in on the next batch for inspection and rebuild
It's really going to come down to how long these take to get sent back for when the build is done.
As evidenced by the timeline of my previous posts, the shop pulled the motor in a day and a half. They work super quick and have two guys pretty much dedicated to getting my car done. Now they'll just be swapping accessories over to the new motor (I'm also getting new TMIC, EU5's, and Meth) and awaiting the turbo arrival!

I also talked with the shop guys, and this motor (before being built) came out of a running and driving 2020 M4 with 20k miles that was rear ended and totaled.

Originally Posted by bvrider1

Do you plan on sticking with E85? Just curious if you bought another daily driver. Awesome build you got going.

Thanks! So my plan is to not run full E85 anymore. That will allow me to stay on stock fueling (with only EU5's) and eliminate the need for PI or a lift kit, while still maintaining reliable headroom for the stock HPFP and LPFPs.

I'm probably going to stick with CaryJordan for my tuning, and have both a 93 and E40/50 map. They'll both have meth but for cooling/safety only (toggleable). The 93 will be the daily map at around ~610-630 wheel(ish) I was told, and E40/50 will be the race night map that should be hitting in the low 700's to stay conservative.

I was planning to get a daily before I blew this motor, but now the funds that would have been spent on that have gotten tied up into doing this motor build. So for right now, this will also be my daily
I'm thinking with the power that the motor is built for (850-900 wheel), I'll be way under the threshold for unreliable and be able to keep this as my only car for a year or so before I get to the point where I can afford to get another car.
I'm also very young so two cars would be killing my insurance rates

[prisco]

I had a lot of headaches with Jordan and PS2+ turbos. Switched tuner after 6 months and 28 revisions, just a heads up.

[DeTh]

Originally Posted by prisco

I had a lot of headaches with Jordan and PS2+ turbos. Switched tuner after 6 months and 28 revisions, just a heads up.

Dang, that sucks! Definitely noted. I'm going to try to secure a Dyno session for tuning so that I can get everything as close to dialed within that two hour window as possible.
Hoping Im not chasing revisions way down the line. I had a great experience with him and revisions for my stock turbo e85 map.