Fix for the infamous clicking front suspension

[ASRman]

Hi all,

Just had my M3 back from the dealer following the car developing the well known clicking noise that seems to affect a lot of car especially those running aftermarket springs. Happy to report they have fixed the problem and it was done under a Puma measure 63889282-06.

Whilst I'm glad it's finally fixed I'm interested to know what the puma repair relates to specifically. Can anyone find out what this puma measure relates to?

Thanks in advance,

[TurboM]

Originally Posted by ASRman

Hi all,

Just had my M3 back from the dealer following the car developing the well known clicking noise that seems to affect a lot of car especially those running aftermarket springs. Happy to report they have fixed the problem and it was done under a Puma measure 63889282-06.

Whilst I'm glad it's finally fixed I'm interested to know what the puma repair relates to specifically. Can anyone find out what this puma measure relates to?

Thanks in advance,

Let me make sure I correctly interpreted your original post. You have aftermarket springs installed and your front suspension developed a clicking noise and the dealer fixed it under warranty?

Why don't you just ask your SA?

[ASRman]

Hello. No my suspension is totally stock. Or else they would not have covered it.

I did ask my sa but unfortunately he did not know the specifics so I thought I would try my luck here.

[TurboM]

Originally Posted by ASRman

Hello. No my suspension is totally stock. Or else they would not have covered it. However it did have Eibach springs in the past.

I did ask my sa but unfortunately he did not know the specifics so I thought I would try my luck here.

Got it. A PUMA case is just a repair case where BMW corporate gets involved in assessing and/or approving the repair. It's usually high dollar or uncommon repairs. That said, no one on the forums is going to have any insight into your particular situation.

Maybe you're confusing a PUMA case with a TSB (technical service bulletin).

[The Choosey begger]

What was the fix?

[Alan l.]

Fix is tighten the bolt that clamps the knuckle to the front strut assembly or replace the bolt all together. I think since everything is aluminum it stretches over time to the point there i just enough movement to make the noise. I cranked down my bolt and my suspension went from clicking like hell to zero clicking.

[Racer20]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Fix is tighten the bolt that clamps the knuckle to the front strut assembly or replace the bolt all together. I think since everything is aluminum it stretches over time to the point there i just enough movement to make the noise. I cranked down my bolt and my suspension went from clicking like hell to zero clicking.

FYI there's a special tool that BMW specifies to ensure the strut is seated properly in the knuckle.

There's a socket designed to spread the knuckle apart a specific distance, then a puller tool that pulls the strut down to a specific torque.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uts/1VnXkwnxfm

[ASRman]

Right guys, so the noise came back so that PUMA case did not fix the issue for me. I have just collected the car from BMW after re-booking it in and they did the following:-

1. Road tested and found both front struts were causing the noise
2. Removed both the front struts and cleaned all seats and springs, re-installed springs and struts and torqued down to spec
3. Noise still slightly evident on full lock but 90% gone
4. Rebooked back in a couple weeks time - Will update with hopefully a final fix.

[Maitre_Absolut]

Originally Posted by Racer20

FYI there's a special tool that BMW specifies to ensure the strut is seated properly in the knuckle.

There's a socket designed to spread the knuckle apart a specific distance, then a puller tool that pulls the strut down to a specific torque.

I know this thread is not about aftermarket springs but this is the answer to every single clicking complaint from those who did not install at dealer. I got the exact same explanation at mine.

Do your install at the dealers and no clicking.

[Alan l.]

I don't think it has anything to do with dealer or non dealer install of springs. I had my springs installed by a independent shop for over 6K miles without any noises until a year later. Spring install is the same on this car as any other car so its not rocket science like some shops try to make you believe because they want to charge you M tax. In fact its probably the easiest spring install Ive ever done.

Now as to whats causing the noise I can't say. All i know is that when i loosened the collar bolt and replaced it with a new one the noise went away for a few weeks but then came back.

[Racer20]

Read my post. My point is that there's a special tool the BMW specifies to install the strut and ensure its seated properly and has the correct clamp load when torque is applied.

Yes, it is quite easy to install everything without the tool, and without disassembling the control arms, but BMW specifies it this way for a reason.

The fact that torquing the bolt fixes it temporarily indicates that it's related to the clamp load of this joint somehow.

Given that this tool is only for the F80, and that you don't "need it" to physically install the parts, I'd say it's unlikely that any independent shops will have it, and I'd bet that most dealers even skip this step.

[Alan l.]

^^ you bought the tool right?

Based on your insight what do you think the tool is doing differently compared to someone without it? Is it applying load (pulling the strut down into the collar) while you are tightening the collar bolt?

Right now my wife and neighbor probably thinks I'm crazy because i'm ALWAYS either washing my car or I have my front wheels removed doing something lol

Alan

[Racer20]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

^^ you bought the tool right?

Based on your insight what do you think the tool is doing differently compared to someone without it? Is it applying load (pulling the strut down into the collar) while you are tightening the collar bolt?

Right now my wife and neighbor probably thinks I'm crazy because i'm ALWAYS either washing my car or I have my front wheels removed doing something lol

Alan

Yes. There's a socket that spreads the clevis to a specified dimension and holds it there.

Then there's a puller tool that seats on the bottom of the spindle and a threaded piece grabs onto the nub on the bottom of the strut can.

You turn the threaded part to a specified torque and it pulls the strut down until the bulge in the strut tube seats into the clevis properly. Then you remove the spreader socket and the spindle clamps down ready to be torqued.

Considering how many strange noise issues seem to crop up from this area on our car, I think it's worth doing right.

[rod1]

"FYI there's a special tool that BMW specifies to ensure the strut is seated properly in the knuckle."

Is this tool necessary when installing aftermarket struts? I purchased a set of B6 bilsteins.

Thanks