DIY for swapping out rear swaybar

[ninekrpm]

Is there a good reference for this; I know that the subframe would have to drop, but hoping that there are some tips that I can use during this project.



Updated:


Here is a summary of the DIY I just completed...very much similar to the elmerzasty (below).


- Remove the aluminum X brace
- Remove the exhaust
- Remove the rear dampers
- Disconnect the sway (end-links)
- Review all of the cables / brake lines, etc. to familiarize yourself with how much slack you have as you lower the sub-frame
- Disconnect (remove driver side only) upper control arm, this connects to the sub-frame and upper part of wheel hub
- At this point, I was ready to lower the sub-frame. I used two jacks, one under the front of the diff (on differ carrier), the second on the back of he sub-frame.
- I started to lower the sub-frame, very slowly, keeping an eye on the cables / lines. I lowered the sub-frame about 6" front-end and about 4" rear-end.
- At this point, I was able to clear access the sway-bar brackets. I removed all of the screws and then used a strong/long flat head screw driver to pinch remove the brackets from the sway-bar.
- Once everything was free, I removed the sway-bar from driver side. You will have to play with this a bit both to remove and re-insert the replacement sway-bar.


From here, it is pretty much the reverse order...

- Starting with installing the new sway-bar, then brackets.
- Install the upper control-arm
- Raise the sub-frame back up, slowly lining it back to the mounting points and tighten. F80 torque spec is 79 ft/lb
- And so on and on,


It can be somewhat of an intimidating DIY project, but it is pretty straight forward. Requires some patience...it took me 4.5 hours (start to finish), not including getting the car setup on jack-stands, etc.

Hope this helps....

[elmerzasty]

It's pretty straightforward once you start unbolting, rear chassis braces and liners need to come off, unbolt the exhaust from the chassis, unbolt the subframe and just lower it enough to unbolt (yes, the bolts are inserted from the top), remove and install the swaybar. If I remember correctly I did have to unbolt one control arm to get the sway bar out and in.

There is a DIY on the F30 forum, the process is pretty much similar.

[ninekrpm]

Bumping this up...any updated info, DIY or similar. Looking to finally take a shot at this...

[chetrickerman]

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1043440

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by chetrickerman

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1043440

Good reference, thanks. Getting started today...

Will perhaps do a write-up...

[Geez3]

Can't wait to hear how it goes.

Want to do the CP Rear Sway when I do my springs.

[ninekrpm]

Just completed the swaybar install, with some patience, it is a pretty straight process.

Will do summary this weekend.

[ninekrpm]

Summary added to the first post, good luck!!!

[lmvzuniga]

Good diy, just installed my afe sway bars, worth the install isn't too bad once you get the subframe down a bit. took about 4 hours front and rear start to finish

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

Summary added to the first post, good luck!!!

Any issues with driveshaft travel?
The F30 DIY has them unbolting the center support bearing, which we don't have, in order to drop the subframe. Did you have enough room to lower yours without taxing the CF driveshaft?

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Any issues with driveshaft travel?
The F30 DIY has them unbolting the center support bearing, which we don't have, in order to drop the subframe. Did you have enough room to lower yours without taxing the CF driveshaft?

No issue with the driveshaft, it has a lot of travel. Just go slow when you are lowering the subframe.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by hC1001

No issue with the driveshaft, it has a lot of travel. Just go slow when you are lowering the subframe.

Cool 👍🏼

[ninekrpm]

Agreed...slow and not too low

[1000hp]

Did mine today. Super smooth and easy.

Removing both upper control arms (left and right) allowed me to remove the bar with the brackets/bushings still attached. Came right out with no fuss.

Plenty of travel in the driveshaft, as everyone else said. Don't forget to take the rear section of the exhaust heat shield down so that you don't mangle it.

The pic shows the two bars together. The top is the ZCP bar, bottom is the non-ZCP bar.
The thinner section in the middle of the ZCP bar is the same diameter as the entire non-ZCP bar (23mm), presumably for clearance over the diff.

[eXstasy]

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=253

From these pics it looks like this member, heckyeahbro69 , didn't really remove anything and just barely dropped the subframe with everything still attached.

Anyone else try this method?

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by eXstasy

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=253

From these pics it looks like this member, heckyeahbro69 , didn't really remove anything and just barely dropped the subframe with everything still attached.

Anyone else try this method?

I wasted a lot of time trying this method. A lot. I don’t recommend as the funky shape of the sway bar does not allow this. Gotta drop it enough to maneuver it into place.

[Talx]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

I wasted a lot of time trying this method. A lot. I don’t recommend as the funky shape of the sway bar does not allow this. Gotta drop it enough to maneuver it into place.

Well I gave it a try today to install the rear sway bar and I opted to the method above where you don’t need to remove anything. This is my insight on the install:

1. You need to disconnect the triangle braces that connect up to the aluminum bridge that goes over the exhaust
2. Disconnect two of the rear exhaust mounts that are located near the muffler
3. Using a jack loosen all 4 subframe bolts until the end of their threads and then remove the 2 on the passenger side, lower subframe about 2-3 inches
4.disconnect both upper control arms on each side of the car.
5. Disconnect the shock absorbers on each side but you most support the control arms from beneath so you don’t damage the oil lines
5.Disconnect the sway bar
6. Spray some oil onto the passenger side rubber bushing and slide the bushing with the aluminum flange of the sway bar( you need to do this to get enough clearance)
7. Slide…..twist….slide….shift….twist…slide…and finally pull the sway bar out of the drivers side. 😰😰😰
8. Thanks god they changed the design of the H&R/CSRS sway bar from the OEM one becouse it slides in like a breeze
9. Bolt everything back up.

Took me about 6 hours, two of which where spent on figuring out how exactly to twist the bar out and come to the conclusion that the passengers side needs to be lowered more than the drivers side and that the bushing needs removing.

Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing it themselves
P.S
Front bar only takes 30-40 minutes

[b_w.]

Tks. Have a gtmore sway bar to do soon.