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      09-12-2018, 03:51 PM   #1
RickMonet
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Question Sticky Door Locks?

Has anyone experienced a sticky door lock?

I have noticed my driver's side door lock (M3) appears to move up/down slower than the other door locks - like it is "sticking". On a few occasions the driver's side lock actually got stuck and failed to auto-unlock when shutting off engine (set to do so). I had to press the unlock button on center console to force the unlock on the driver's side.

I plan to take the car into the dealership (still under factory warranty) but wanted any insight from the Forum of root cause if others have experienced and resolved the issue. I am concerned it may be the locking mechanism going bad.

Thank you
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      09-12-2018, 07:57 PM   #2
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There is a TSB out for the door lock pins. My driver side lock pin was rattling on occasion. and the issue was resolved thru the TSB. I would inquire with your service center.
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      09-12-2018, 08:05 PM   #3
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would dealer fix if not under factory warranty since there's an TSB?
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      09-12-2018, 08:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickMonet View Post
Has anyone experienced a sticky door lock?

I have noticed my driver's side door lock (M3) appears to move up/down slower than the other door locks - like it is "sticking". On a few occasions the driver's side lock actually got stuck and failed to auto-unlock when shutting off engine (set to do so). I had to press the unlock button on center console to force the unlock on the driver's side.

I plan to take the car into the dealership (still under factory warranty) but wanted any insight from the Forum of root cause if others have experienced and resolved the issue. I am concerned it may be the locking mechanism going bad.

Thank you
I had this issue in my 2015 as well, except that it was the front passenger that was slower than the others while the driver's side did as yours is. Both lock actuators were replaced under warranty.
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      09-12-2018, 10:50 PM   #5
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Thanks Guys. I found this thread on F30 Forum talking about it:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1361764

Quoting madmonkey:
So to summarize:
IF your door lock fails to unlock through pulling the handle AND will unlock with the centre switch - but the lock pin moves slower than the others, THEN your actuator needs replacing. Accept no substitutes.

The Bowden cable replacement does not fix the issue, even though there is a TSB for it. There is no TSB for the actuators as far as I know.

Warranty or CPO warranty will cover this work - but be prepared to have to argue this point with the service department - in my case, I was charged a diagnostic fee to "look" at the problem and "lubricate" parts (which did not fix the issue at all). Take video of your issue with time and date of occurrence. Show it to the SA and the tech.

pn 51-21-7-202-143 system latch, left
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      11-19-2018, 12:02 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickMonet View Post
Thanks Guys. I found this thread on F30 Forum talking about it:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1361764

Quoting madmonkey:
So to summarize:
IF your door lock fails to unlock through pulling the handle AND will unlock with the centre switch - but the lock pin moves slower than the others, THEN your actuator needs replacing. Accept no substitutes.

The Bowden cable replacement does not fix the issue, even though there is a TSB for it. There is no TSB for the actuators as far as I know.

Warranty or CPO warranty will cover this work - but be prepared to have to argue this point with the service department - in my case, I was charged a diagnostic fee to "look" at the problem and "lubricate" parts (which did not fix the issue at all). Take video of your issue with time and date of occurrence. Show it to the SA and the tech.

pn 51-21-7-202-143 system latch, left
Do you think part number would be different the vehicle has comfort access? My gf's m3 is having the same problem on both doors but does not happen all the time.
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      11-19-2018, 12:34 AM   #7
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+1, had this happen on my f30 3 series. Lock would not unlock after 2 door pulls on passenger side, and also would be slow to actuate up. Took a few visits to the dealership to get them to recognize the issue, but actuators were replaced. This was 2 or so years ago.
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      11-19-2018, 06:57 AM   #8
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Yes. Took it to the dealer, and they replaced the actuator under warranty.

Cheers
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      10-03-2019, 11:39 AM   #9
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i'm starting to experience this issue with the driver side actuator. while i was searching online for parts using the number provided above, a seller came back to me saying they should be replaced in pairs (ie. both front doors), because if one fails, the other is soon to follow. is this true? or just a sales ploy?
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      10-03-2019, 04:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabulousprofound View Post
i'm starting to experience this issue with the driver side actuator. while i was searching online for parts using the number provided above, a seller came back to me saying they should be replaced in pairs (ie. both front doors), because if one fails, the other is soon to follow. is this true? or just a sales ploy?
Not directly related to BMW or M3/M4, but a few years ago I had a VW Jetta TDI that was a company car and one of the rear door locks failed out of warranty. It cost $300. A couple of months later the other rear door lock failed. Glad I didn't have to pay for them!

But unless the seller is giving you a significant discount on two, I wouldn't buy both of them just because one failed. The bad one might just be a fluke. The other factor is how often you have a passenger and how inconvenient it would be to wait for another one to be shipped, if that one also fails.
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      10-03-2019, 04:04 PM   #11
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For anyone who is getting push back from their service department about replacing a faulty door lock under warranty, remind them that this is a safety issue!

They could face a huge liability issue if they decline to replace a reported faulty lock mechanism and either the driver or passenger(s) are trapped in the car and can't get out in an emergency.
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      10-03-2019, 04:12 PM   #12
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i'm out of factory warranty. i have 3rd party extended but it's a $200 deductible. the online seller has oem left/right for $93usd for the pair + shipping. a friend knows a bmw tech who can do it off hours for $60 in labor per side... doing my best to make the numbers work in my favor atm before i either get locked out or have to duct tape the door shut again.
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      10-03-2019, 08:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabulousprofound View Post
i'm out of factory warranty. i have 3rd party extended but it's a $200 deductible. the online seller has oem left/right for $93usd for the pair + shipping. a friend knows a bmw tech who can do it off hours for $60 in labor per side... doing my best to make the numbers work in my favor atm before i either get locked out or have to duct tape the door shut again.
I had drivers side done through my 3rd party warranty at a BMW service center. Covered price was almost $600 just for the door actuator and labor!

Now my passenger side is starting to go. Way I see it, unless I sell my car before the extended expires and I can recover the prorated difference I paid for it, I definitely want to make as many claims as feasible to keep the car tip top. Even the smallest items aren't cheap to fix!
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