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      12-21-2014, 06:11 PM   #1
MasterC17
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DIY: KW HAS Kit

**UPDATE 4/1/18 - PICS TRANSFERRED FROM PHOTOBUCKET TO IMGUR**

First off, this is a bit of PITA, you need some special tools, I HIGHLY recommend a lift, and you'll need an impact gun. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. You'll find out why later. To start, put the car on the lift (or ramps, if you so desire). Next, remove all four wheels. I started with the rear because they are easier.



First things first, remove the lower bolt on the rear strut (18mm).



Next, remove the three e-torx bolts from the top of the rear strut.



Now, you can remove the rear strut by compressing it down, and pulling it out. If you have EDC, be careful of the connector!



EDC Only: Remove the connector, just pull straight up and out.



Now, remove the rear spring. It will take some screwing around to get it out, but slide it through the hole in the lower control arm.

Next, we have to pull the old bump stop off the strut. Here's where you need the impact gun to remove the top strut hat. Can't remember what size the nut is, but it's a 12-point. Remove it. Disconnect the old bump stop from the plastic shroud, and to install the new bump stop use glass cleaner (or the like) as lube to make it easier to press in. Impact the strut hat back on.



The next course of action is to install the new spring assembly. Make sure you remove ALL components that were used by the old spring. Also, for the purposes of installation put the adjuster to full low. From top to bottom - adjuster, spring, adapter, helper spring, lower pad. To install it you will have to place the bottom portion in first. Now you're going to need to use some back strength to get the helper spring to compress far enough to slide the adjuster into the hole. It's not easy.



Alright, we got the spring assembly in, next up is the strut with the new bump stop. Pre-assemble the strut assembly with both top mounts already together with the gaskets, this makes it a lot easier. Compress the strut fully, and quickly pop the bottom into place, and slide the top into place. If EDC, be very careful of the connector and don't forget to plug it in! Once you finally get it all lined up, tighten the e-torx bolts on the top, and the 18mm bolt on the bottom.







Congratulations, one rear is done! Now do the other side.





Okay, rear's aren't so bad, right? Now for the fronts (start with left front).



First, remove the microfilter cover thingys. Turn the three 10mm nuts, and remove the plastic rivet. Now you have to remove the OH SO AWESOME AND LOVELY carbon strut brace. Eight 13mm bolts, and one 10mm bolt (connects to coolant expansion tank).



Now, remove the rubber cover over the strut hat. Two plastic rivets. Next, we have to remove the three e-torx bolts.



EDC Only: Now that those are out, remove the EDC connector the same way you did on the rears.



Next, let's move to the bottom. Disconnect ALL the connectors down here from the little holders, and don't forget about the headlight leveling sensor!!! Wheel speed sensor, brake pad wear sensor, make them long. Strut connector, disconnect it.





Now, disconnect the 16mm nut holding the sway bar link on, impact gun is your friend again.



Now, go back to the top of the car. Remove the three 13mm nuts still holding the strut in.

Back to the bottom, disconnect the 16mm bolt holding the strut in place. Swing the strut out away from the car. Make sure you don't strain any lines/wires (keep the steering wheel straight at this point).





Now, pull the strut out of the car. You'll need to use something to pry apart the strut...holder...on the wheel hub. Congrats, your front strut is out of the car.



Remember removing the strut hat on the rear, well it's the same on the front (although deeper, make sure you get a deep set).



Put the strut in a vice (sounds silly, found it to be the best solution). Hold it by the piston, but make sure you use a microfiber towel so it doesn't damage it and don't go too tight. Next, remove the strut sensor thing, e-torx. DON'T FORGET TO MARK (USE A SHARPIE) WHERE THE SWAY BAR LINK LINES UP.



Next, lube up the area around the lower spring mount, and prepare to smash. No seriously, use a hammer, hit the lower spring mount down (or up I guess). Hit it in multiple places equally. After a minute it will fall off.





Now, measure three inches down from the little lip on the strut, put it in line with where you marked the sway bar link.



Now, carefully slide (the correct side, left in this case) new KW spring mount down over the strut. Make sure to line it up with the sway bar link you previously marked (you didn't forget, did you?). Now, this is pretty funny. Use the old spring mount as a sort of "press" and smash down (with your hammer again) the old spring mount to push the KW mount down until it lines up with the second sharpie marking you made (did you forget that one too?).





Next, install the new bump stop.



Now, install the new spring with the old strut cover thing.



Installation of your new strut/spring setup is the opposite of removal.



Use a jack to help push it back up.



Awesome, you are three quarters of the way there! Logic says that the right side will be the same as the left right? WRONG. BMW said f*ck you, and put one of the right side strut bolts RIGHT below the aluminum body brace thing. Loosen all the bolts on the left side. Remove the two GIANT bolts in the middle. They are hidden under two covers that pop right out. Remove all bolts on the right side. BTW, this is why you disconnected the battery. See that positive terminal RIGHT next to the aforementioned strut bolt. Yes, it is evil.





From there on, the right side is the same as the left. Repeat previous steps.

Congratulations, you are all done and your car is officially STANCENATIONBRO.







P.S. Without spacers you'll probably have fitment issue up front if you're dropped all the way. The wheel will most likely hit the adjuster. Adjust up, sorry.

So, that's all. It could be written better. I probably forgot something. I could have taken more pictures, but I did it alone. I'm tired.
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Last edited by MasterC17; 04-01-2018 at 08:01 AM..
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      12-22-2014, 12:08 AM   #2
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Excellent.

As I posted on another thread, and as you posted as well --- SIDE NOTE FOR KW V3, maybe for KW HAS too, as it looks similar: For the front the lowest you can probably go on stock wheels without spacers or aftermarket wheels is ---- perch adjusted showing ~1.25" of thread. Any lower and the spring will rub on the inner tire. At this adjustment it will put the fender at the tire or maybe even a tiny little tuck of the tire.
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      12-22-2014, 11:09 AM   #3
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Nice!
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      12-22-2014, 11:17 PM   #4
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Do you know all the sizes of sockets you had to use? I probably just need to know the largest ones you had to use so I van verify I have them. Thanks, Also what size torque bolts were those in the picture where the craftsman ratchet was on?
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      12-23-2014, 06:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooch View Post
Do you know all the sizes of sockets you had to use? I probably just need to know the largest ones you had to use so I van verify I have them. Thanks, Also what size torque bolts were those in the picture where the craftsman ratchet was on?
Buy this set here: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-9pc-u...7&blockType=G7

And that's all you will need. Because it's a universal socket, I don't know the technical size, but I used the 9mm socket on the e-torx and I used the deep 18mm on the 12-point strut hat bolts.
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      12-29-2014, 05:21 PM   #6
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Do you have the torque specs for all those bolts?
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      12-30-2014, 06:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
Do you have the torque specs for all those bolts?
Erm....tight? Haha, I have no idea to be honest, but over the years I've gotten pretty good at "feeling them out".
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      12-30-2014, 08:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterC17 View Post
Erm....tight? Haha, I have no idea to be honest, but over the years I've gotten pretty good at "feeling them out".
LOL. That's a good way to break bolt heads or having your suspension fall apart doing 150mph speed runs. Always use a torque wrench, especially high performance cars.

I found these specs from the M3 forum (1MEAN_M3):
FRONT:
- Strut tower nut: 25 ft-lb
- Strut pinch bolt: 60 ft-lb
- Strut to swaybar endlink: 44 ft-lb
- Brake caliper to steering knuckle: 81 ft-lb

REAR:
- Upper shock mount nuts: 21 ft-lb
- Lower shock to trailing arm bolt: 74 ft-lb

Original source: Bentley
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      12-30-2014, 09:01 AM   #9
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nice review. how you like the ride?
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      12-30-2014, 01:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
LOL. That's a good way to break bolt heads or having your suspension fall apart doing 150mph speed runs. Always use a torque wrench, especially high performance cars.

I found these specs from the M3 forum (1MEAN_M3):
FRONT:
- Strut tower nut: 25 ft-lb
- Strut pinch bolt: 60 ft-lb
- Strut to swaybar endlink: 44 ft-lb
- Brake caliper to steering knuckle: 81 ft-lb

REAR:
- Upper shock mount nuts: 21 ft-lb
- Lower shock to trailing arm bolt: 74 ft-lb

Original source: Bentley
I'm working on the suspension, not the motor. They're tight enough, I already had it up to 150 after and nothing fell apart, not worried. EDIT: If I was working on the motor I would make sure to torque correctly, but for most other components on the car close is close enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///M ARMY View Post
nice review. how you like the ride?
It's really not any worse than stock to be honest. I like it.
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      12-30-2014, 03:48 PM   #11
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Watch out, we got a torque Nazi in here.
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      04-23-2015, 02:13 AM   #12
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Great DIY! I'll be using this one when my build arrives!
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      05-25-2015, 04:47 AM   #13
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Is a spring compressor necessary?
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      05-25-2015, 08:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes0310 View Post
Is a spring compressor necessary?
No
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      07-17-2015, 07:19 PM   #15
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Did you use a spring compressor for the front?
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      07-22-2015, 08:30 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///bproden View Post
Did you use a spring compressor for the front?
No
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      07-25-2015, 01:37 PM   #17
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Did you disconnect the rear sway when removing the rear springs?
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      07-27-2015, 07:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///bproden View Post
Did you disconnect the rear sway when removing the rear springs?
No. I actually found an easier way to do it as well. Just unbolt the lower control arm.
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      07-27-2015, 01:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterC17 View Post
No. I actually found an easier way to do it as well. Just unbolt the lower control arm.
Yeah I ended up just unbolting the lower control arm also. I didn't at first and tried everything to get the spring out without taking that off. Once, I did it was simple. Could you possibly update that into this DIY, so other people know as well in the future?


Thanks for this DIY also. It definitely helped. And you weren't kidding about having to beat the perches off the struts. Man those things were on there good. Haha
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      07-29-2015, 12:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///bproden View Post
Yeah I ended up just unbolting the lower control arm also. I didn't at first and tried everything to get the spring out without taking that off. Once, I did it was simple. Could you possibly update that into this DIY, so other people know as well in the future?


Thanks for this DIY also. It definitely helped. And you weren't kidding about having to beat the perches off the struts. Man those things were on there good. Haha
Lmao, I tried to do it myself today and didn't want to unbolt it so I ended up going to my friends shop and putting it on the lift. Much easier! We just used a pry bar and the spring came out fairly easy.

I did however notice you did not reinstall the plastic ventilation disk on the front dampers. Any reason? Shows it in the KW instructions so I put it back in. Had to put it in with the spring on first but it holds the dust boot thingy down so I figured it was a good idea since I have EDC and don't want shit getting in them.
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      09-18-2015, 01:51 PM   #21
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Does anyone have the correct torque settings for all of the nuts?

Especially top bolts on top of shocks and also suspension bolts?

Planning on dropping mine tomorrow.
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      10-17-2015, 08:26 AM   #22
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Great DIY!!
Will be dropping mine today....can't wait to see the difference
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