GC Camber Plates Install - How Hard?

[theox05]

Hey guys, just wanted a quick run down on how difficult these are to self-install. I do not seem to be able to find a YouTube video on it. I have some wrenching experience, but never anything suspension related. I know I'll need a spring compressor, any other special tools needed?

If I did do this myself, I imagine I would install the plates, tighten them down at default then immediately go get an alignment at closest BMW shop asking them to set the plates at some toe/camber numbers I got from a member here, marking them at street and track settings.

Thanks!

Edit: Getting quoted at ~1300 for this work to be done, granted it includes mount and balance of new wheels and tires.

Edit2: Found this thread: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1509819 Anything I need to be careful of?

Edit3: Dude in above edit is nearly incomprehensible lol. Any other videos out there?

[kern417]

It's no different than mounting the stock strut mounts. I didn't even need a spring compressor with my coilovers. If you have stock suspension then it'll help.

The correct method for tightening the top bolt is using a thru-socket wrench but an impact works too, though not recommended.

[PayamFSU]

Takes about 30-45 min per side it's pretty easy

[theox05]

Originally Posted by PayamFSU

Takes about 30-45 min per side it's pretty easy

Well, maybe not for me Got one side in, was able to torque the mounting bolts properly, but what size is that nut on the top strut nut? How do I torque that to spec?

I confirmed that the spring was properly situated and did the best I could on the top spring rubber boot (getting it over the lip properly). There was a noticeable pop when let the car back down on four wheels, but nothing after that. Hoping its just everything seating.

Will get back to it tomorrow.

[PayamFSU]

Think it's either 21 or 22 can't remember I hit it with impact to "feel" which is literally what GC said to do lol but same torque spec as factory should be what is needed since it's the same shock.

[MyFragileHalogen]

I am planning DIY later this week. Among few online videos/post related, I found this video very nice which is not mentioned in the forum posts.

It looks like I'd still need to use the spring compressor a little bit (to be safe) when taking out the top hat. Picked up (rented) one from Autozone.

[theox05]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

I am planning DIY later this week. Among few online videos/post related, I found this video very nice which is not mentioned in the forum posts.

It looks like I'd still need to use the spring compressor a little bit (to be safe) when taking out the top hat. Picked up (rented) one from Autozone.

I used this video as well, its quite helpful. If I ever do this again, I think I will just get the spring compressor and remove the strut entirely. I think you are making the right choice here. Trying to maneuver the strut back into place with it still attached was a pain in the ass. I had my wife helping with the strut alignment and words like "divorce", "murder", and "irreconcilable differences" were thrown about.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by theox05

I had my wife helping with the strut alignment and words like "divorce", "murder", and "irreconcilable differences" were thrown about.

[theox05]

One last thing, anyone know the allen key size for holding the strut bolt in place while you torque the top? Its the last thing I need to do and nothing I have from my extensive collection of allen keys fits.

Interesting side notes:

1) The adjustment plate allen key nuts are SAE. WTF, seriously?

2) While the stock top strut nut is 18mm, the Ground Control one is the standard 22mm.