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      09-14-2015, 11:54 AM   #1
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best coilover setup?

hi guys, whats the best coilover setup for F80 M3 for daily driving? thanks
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      09-14-2015, 12:42 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M
hi guys, whats the best coilover setup for F80 M3 for daily driving? thanks
Will you be tracking your car?

Do you have EDC?

Do you have a budget in mind?
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      09-14-2015, 01:10 PM   #3
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The best set-up is usually the most expensive.

You can go from mild to wild.

IMO, for street use, I think the stock set-up with Adaptive is pretty damn good. It's an active system that makes millisecond damping changes on the fly and is very well sorted out.

Unless you need adjustability or you want to slam it, I would stay stock.
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      09-14-2015, 01:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M View Post
hi guys, whats the best coilover setup for F80 M3 for daily driving? thanks
According to 90% of people on this forum, the best coilover set up is the one they currently have.

But as M3*GaryShrig*M3 said, what do you want to achieve?
- Street
- Track
- Adjustment Options
- Small Budget

You can probably pick two or three of those, but not all.
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      09-14-2015, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3*GaryShrig*M3 View Post
Will you be tracking your car?

Do you have EDC?

Do you have a budget in mind?
not gonna track it, will be my daily car but i would like to have a lower look and better handeling. No EDC, didnt get the m adaptive suspension.

budget maybe around 2500.

thanks
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      09-14-2015, 02:19 PM   #6
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JRZ touring
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      09-14-2015, 02:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3*GaryShrig*M3 View Post
Will you be tracking your car?

Do you have EDC?

Do you have a budget in mind?
not gonna track it, will be my daily car but i would like to have a lower look and better handeling. No EDC, didnt get the m adaptive suspension.

budget maybe around 2500.

thanks
I would go for KW V3's. It will improve the handling and give you the lower, more aggressive look that you are looking for. They retail for $2849, but you should be able to pick them up for $2400. This kit will also not sacrifice the ride quality which you may get with a sleeve-kit or lowering springs.

Let me know if you can't find them for a lower price and I can point you in the right direction?
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      09-14-2015, 02:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3*GaryShrig*M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3*GaryShrig*M3 View Post
Will you be tracking your car?

Do you have EDC?

Do you have a budget in mind?
not gonna track it, will be my daily car but i would like to have a lower look and better handeling. No EDC, didnt get the m adaptive suspension.

budget maybe around 2500.

thanks
I would go for KW V3's. It will improve the handling and give you the lower, more aggressive look that you are looking for. They retail for $2849, but you should be able to pick them up for $2400. This kit will also not sacrifice the ride quality which you may get with a sleeve-kit or lowering springs.

Let me know if you can't find them for a lower price and I can point you in the right direction?
Thanks man, I will let you know if I need help!
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      09-14-2015, 02:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSanto View Post
JRZ touring
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3*GaryShrig*M3 View Post
I would go for KW V3's. It will improve the handling and give you the lower, more aggressive look that you are looking for. They retail for $2849, but you should be able to pick them up for $2400. This kit will also not sacrifice the ride quality which you may get with a sleeve-kit or lowering springs.

Let me know if you can't find them for a lower price and I can point you in the right direction?
Member Kitw went with the KW V3s on his M3 F80. He got rid of the M3 and got an M4. On the M4, he opted for the JRZ RS Two Touring. He says he likes it better than the KW V3.

Regardless, both of those kits are at the top or above your budget and doesn't include the installation and alignment.

I'm interested to see if anyone has tried the AWE coilovers.
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      09-14-2015, 04:04 PM   #10
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Best is relative to how you plan to use the car and what you want it to feel like or how you want it to perform. As other have mentioned you should think about how you plan to use the car, and what areas you can take away from to add to other areas. For example if you want the car to perform better at the track you'll want to increase the spring rate and damping to go with it along with lower you center of gravity a bit....this will give you a firmer ride and less ground clearance. For most a small change is fine but can quickly turn to just "too much" for a car that will be primarily a daily.

Other things to consider is the type of units available. Twin-tube vs mono, linear vs digressive valving...etc. To oversimplify it in the interest of not writing a novel right now. Mono-tube dampers will generally perform better in track situations, twin-tube are cheaper to produce and allow for more travel in shorter distances. Linear valving will be just that, very linear the quicker the piston travels through the fluid the more resistance it will be met with in a linear fashion, this usually allows for a very comfortable ride. Digressive pistons allow for more low speed giving the driver more confidence with firmer feel on turn in but then bleed off in high speed (bumps are not as bad at speed). Because of this digressive at low speeds or on uneven road (think brick road) will shake the cabin around a lot more than a linear setup would.

If you have any questions about specifics of any of this I can try to explain it in further detail but all of these things should be considered when trying to choose what would be the best setup for you. No setup is the best for everything, so you should consider what type of compromise you are willing to make to give you the best overall balance for how you plan to use the car.
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      09-14-2015, 04:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_Garrett View Post
Best is relative to how you plan to use the car and what you want it to feel like or how you want it to perform. As other have mentioned you should think about how you plan to use the car, and what areas you can take away from to add to other areas. For example if you want the car to perform better at the track you'll want to increase the spring rate and damping to go with it along with lower you center of gravity a bit....this will give you a firmer ride and less ground clearance. For most a small change is fine but can quickly turn to just "too much" for a car that will be primarily a daily.

Other things to consider is the type of units available. Twin-tube vs mono, linear vs digressive valving...etc. To oversimplify it in the interest of not writing a novel right now. Mono-tube dampers will generally perform better in track situations, twin-tube are cheaper to produce and allow for more travel in shorter distances. Linear valving will be just that, very linear the quicker the piston travels through the fluid the more resistance it will be met with in a linear fashion, this usually allows for a very comfortable ride. Digressive pistons allow for more low speed giving the driver more confidence with firmer feel on turn in but then bleed off in high speed (bumps are not as bad at speed). Because of this digressive at low speeds or on uneven road (think brick road) will shake the cabin around a lot more than a linear setup would.

If you have any questions about specifics of any of this I can try to explain it in further detail but all of these things should be considered when trying to choose what would be the best setup for you. No setup is the best for everything, so you should consider what type of compromise you are willing to make to give you the best overall balance for how you plan to use the car.
Thanks a lot for your reply! what i am looking for is something for the street for my daily driving. something thats not too bumpy and gives me better handeling than the OEM suspension. I usually dont drive hardcore. but sometime when i feel it, i will drive hard just to enjoy the car! i dont know if this is enough information for you to suggest me something that suits me. Thank you very much!
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      09-14-2015, 05:45 PM   #12
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The best coiler setup is entirely up to you.. consists of multiple factors, what may be best for you might not be best for others. I'd always say budget is the first factor to narrow down the choices. In terms of your 2500 budget, i'd recommend 2 setups:

1) Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers (Monotube shocks) roughly 2100-2200 + install
2) Swift Springs + aftermarket shocks as soon as the OEM shocks are done (this setup will run under your cost) around 500 - 700 installed, not including shocks.

Setup 1 allows a more aggressive drop, with nice shocks - setup 2 will give you mild drop, and as far as I am aware, no decent shocks are out for the f8x yet. I'd wait for Bilsteins / Koni yellows once they are out if going this route.

Both setups are great for light track work, have decent ride quality, and are proven setups for street cars. This is my recommendation.. my 2 cents
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      09-14-2015, 05:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
The best coiler setup is entirely up to you.. consists of multiple factors, what may be best for you might not be best for others. I'd always say budget is the first factor to narrow down the choices. In terms of your 2500 budget, i'd recommend 2 setups:

1) Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers (Monotube shocks) roughly 2100-2200 + install
2) Swift Springs + aftermarket shocks as soon as the OEM shocks are done (this setup will run under your cost) around 500 - 700 installed, not including shocks.

Setup 1 allows a more aggressive drop, with nice shocks - setup 2 will give you mild drop, and as far as I am aware, no decent shocks are out for the f8x yet. I'd wait for Bilsteins / Koni yellows once they are out if going this route.

Both setups are great for light track work, have decent ride quality, and are proven setups for street cars. This is my recommendation.. my 2 cents
Thanks James! I will put that in my list
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      09-14-2015, 05:56 PM   #14
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See if you can get someone with your ideal set-up to take you on a ride-a-long. I didn't do that on my other car and installed a setup that was way to aggressive for my liking. I took what everyone else told me on the forums and went with it. You can alway go back, but it's a PIA.

Suspension is a matter of individual preference if your priority is ride quality. I've found most people here are willing to sacrifice a stiffer ride for better track suspension setups.
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      09-14-2015, 06:39 PM   #15
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There are many good options out there.
KW Height Adjustable Springs ($799)
KW V3's ($2500-$2800)
Bilstein B16 (PSS10) Coilovers ($2400)

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or if you want to see example of cars lowered on these set ups.
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      09-14-2015, 06:56 PM   #16
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Full writeup of the ECGP can be see in last month's European Car.

Moving up to the JRZs next. Way overkill for the street, most times the JRZ Touring or KW V3s will be perfectly fine if seeing street/mild track use.
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      09-14-2015, 08:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M View Post
hi guys, whats the best coilover setup for F80 M3 for daily driving? thanks
Same response on what most already said.
Maybe best is to figure out what your plans are with the vehicle.
If you only going to street drive it with the possibility of the random weekend track event...maybe go with Dinan or KW HAS kit.
You will retain for EDC functions and you can adjust the height same as you would a full coil over setup.
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      09-14-2015, 08:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M View Post
not gonna track it, will be my daily car but i would like to have a lower look and better handeling. No EDC, didnt get the m adaptive suspension.

budget maybe around 2500.

thanks
Seems like KW HAS is a good play based on usage and budget

The others people have mentioned are more than 2500 just for the parts
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      09-14-2015, 08:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Running KW Clubsports at the moment:

Moving up to the JRZs next. Way overkill for the street, most times the JRZ Touring or KW V3s will be perfectly fine if seeing street/mild track use.
I assume you're going for the JRZ RS Two Sport for the shop M4. Why the move?
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      09-14-2015, 08:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_Garrett View Post
Other things to consider is the type of units available. Twin-tube vs mono, linear vs digressive valving...etc. To oversimplify it in the interest of not writing a novel right now.

If you have any questions about specifics of any of this I can try to explain it in further detail but all of these things should be considered when trying to choose what would be the best setup for you. No setup is the best for everything, so you should consider what type of compromise you are willing to make to give you the best overall balance for how you plan to use the car.
If you have time to write the novel, I have time to read it.

I like the Ohlins TTX46 for front and TTX36 for the rear. At 300% stiffer up front, I believe this will be excellent for the track. However Ohlins claim that it will be just as comfortable on the street. I would like your opinion please.
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      09-15-2015, 10:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAL_F30-M View Post
Thanks a lot for your reply! what i am looking for is something for the street for my daily driving. something thats not too bumpy and gives me better handeling than the OEM suspension. I usually dont drive hardcore. but sometime when i feel it, i will drive hard just to enjoy the car! i dont know if this is enough information for you to suggest me something that suits me. Thank you very much!
I could offer some suggestions but I'd be slightly biased for obvious reasons. I will say that we (BC Racing) do offer custom setups at no additional charge. This includes damper lengths, spring rates, spring lengths, valving etc....So besides the rates and valving we have determined to be a great balance for these cars based on our testing overseas along with on a number of cars here in the states our customers can spec out a kit in a anyway they like.

In being completely fair I think the best way to do this is to just give you as much information as possible to allow yourself to make an informed decision on your own rather than fall for a sales pitch and have it be something that isn't quite what you want. As I said if you have any specific questions please let me know and i'll try and give you as honest of an answer to it as possible

Quote:
Originally Posted by M4 CSL View Post
I like the Ohlins TTX46 for front and TTX36 for the rear. At 300% stiffer up front, I believe this will be excellent for the track. However Ohlins claim that it will be just as comfortable on the street. I would like your opinion please.
To be honest I don't have very much first hand experience with those units. I'd have to check later but from memory the factory front spring is about 185lbs, so 300% increase would bring it just over 550lbs (or almost 10kg). If this is correct i'm not sure if I would agree with the statement that its "just as comfortable". There really just isn't a way to use a much higher spring rate and create a damper to control those oscillations without a change in cabin sensation, not to mention the change the spring makes.

While some of us may not mind the ride quality at this rate- its far from a OEM feel. What many people find very comfortable is an overall soft ride, one that "soaks" up all the small bumps in the road without very much sensation being transferred into chassis. Swapping to anything in the ballpark of 9-10kg will not feel like that at all...a LOT more is transferred and can be felt by the drivers and passengers of the car. That being said this is a lot closer to where you would want to be for maximum performance out of your car on street tires.

As I mentioned before your entire setup is always going to be a balance filled with compromises...many of us may be willing to give up comfort (soft) for performance or vice versa but regardless you need to figure out what you would be comfortable with. I've seen people get upset by how stiff their lowering springs are and people who think their custom coilovers are not stiff enough (solely speaking on driver feel on the street). I would like to add that people should not get bouncy (improperly valved setup or damaged/blown setup) confused with stiff or firm, and by no means do I want to push people away from stiffer setups (relative to factory)..they just factually do change how the car feels.

Also, as a rule it's probably better that most who are not familiar with setting up a cars suspension avoid 3 and 4 way adjustable setups. Not because they are inferior in anyway but because it is simply overkill, and they are just wasting money if they never plan to really mess with it and just have a shop toss it on at whatever it came set to from the factory. Having 3 or even 4 way suspension is great at the track, giving drivers the ability to adjust high and low speed settings allow you to truly fine tune your car for the conditions/track you are driving in. When these adjustments are not fully understood by the driver they usually will simply not adjust it and will not have any significant increase in performance or feel over well built single or 2way adjustable setup.

Last edited by BC_Garrett; 09-15-2015 at 11:27 AM..
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      09-15-2015, 11:20 AM   #22
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I assume you're going for the JRZ RS Two Sport for the shop M4. Why the move?
JRZ RS Pro. We like to try different setups in order to have real-world experience with the lines we offer.
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