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      03-18-2021, 11:29 PM   #133
Gomeler
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The chargepipe was about as easy as the intercooler and radiator. It's just adult legos.

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Really liked the textured finish on the VRSF chargepipe.

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Lots of cursing trying to line up the couplers and such. Took a attempts before it fit good enough to move on.

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Buttoned up. Without the logo on the coupler and the bright silver clamps it would look OEM-ish.

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Coolant hoses with billet connections. Next time I'm breaking my hand before I break the radiator or hose. Also take note, I installed the radiator outlet to thermostat hose backwards like a moron Corrected it when I tried to install the fan and it just. wouldn't. fit.
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      03-18-2021, 11:39 PM   #134
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The way this oil cooler kit adapted to the OEM N54 oil filter housing and OEM oil cooler assembly was nice. Machined adapter to adapt the housing to AN fittings.

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Kind of shows how the oil is routed. IIRC oil pumps out of the driver's side port and returns via the passenger side port. You can see the stupid coolant line is all kinked because of the aforementioned genius moment.

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Ziptied the crossover line in place. Just there to keep the hose from flopping around between the subframe and the bellypan.

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The passenger side of this kit fit amazingly, as it reused the OEM mounting brackets. The drivers side was a piece of shit compared to all of the other OEM-like components I had already installed. I coerced it into place but I'm not happy about it.

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With the fan in place you can see the AN lines if you're looking and the VRSF chargepipe coupler peeks out also.

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Filled it up with liquimoly and crossed my fingers. No leaks on startup and first heat cycle.
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      03-19-2021, 12:01 AM   #135
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The driver's side cooler before I started adjusting the slotted bolts. It's still not great on clearance, and I hate the $0.50 excuse of a mount that they shipped with this kit, but hopefully I won't have to mess with it anymore. Did I mention how disappointed I was with this bracket?

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Belly pan in place. No wheel wells liners yet, I want to be able to look at the oil coolers and check for leaks/movement for now. If I manage to rip a line off the car then I probably hit something big enough to also destroy the intercooler

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Testing the look of no OEM foglight shroud vs OEM shroud on the passenger side. Going to leave that up to my dad, who will taking delivery of this car in a few weeks. I kind of like without the shroud, just need to trim and clean up the bumper a little.

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All buttoned up. A small stack of parts and ~30 hours all to keep an OEM power N54 from overheating on a track when thrashed 8/10ths for 45 minutes. Nothing I hate more than needing to do cooldown laps, I want to be able to rip 8/10ths from full tank until fuel starve with maybe a lap here or there to let the front tires cool down a little.

I was pretty surprised at how reasonable most of the parts were to upgrade all of the cooling systems. I think I'll regret not replacing the rear differential with an E92M3 diff, or aftermarket LSD, but this isn't a race car and it isn't for me so

Need to clean up a few things like the fender liners + reinstall the headlight sprayer cover + make a decision on the foglight shroud, but everything replaced is working as intended. Up to around 200 miles averaging ~9mpg trying to stress the cooling loop in canyons and it just isn't possible. Great success.
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      04-05-2021, 12:21 PM   #136
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Weather warmed up so I started pulling cars out of storage. Subaru naturally has another oil leak, so that'll be fun to trace. The 135i is almost completed, the Subaru will be getting an exterior and interior restore this year as I decided to keep it. It was my first car, it's got a lot of nostalgia associated with it

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M4GTS got a bath for the first time in a year after checking the knuckles + wheel bearings, replacing the pads front/rear, bleeding the brakes, checking the rotors, and eyeballing all of the eccentrics. Loaded it into the trailer, have 40 gallons of gas and 8 gallons of distilled water sitting in the storage unit with the Subaru. We're bound for the track on Wednesday for a semi-private test and tune, we'll drive until we cord the Toyo RRs, hoping for maybe 6-8 sessions 30 minute sessions.

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I didn't take photos, but the PPF along the last 12" of the side skirt is incredibly beat up from rocks. Nothing has penetrated the XPEL PPF, but I'm going to see about having something thicker applied as the cumulative damage is beyond what the film can self-heal. Oddly enough the rear quarter PPF in front of the rear tire just has a few scratches from rocks, I thought it would catch more.

Additionally the rear tires are chucking rocks at rear bumper cover that trails the rear tires. This isn't surprising, but the damage is less severe than the side skirt. In general the PPF is doing its job of protecting the paint. The nose/hood of the car is absolutely covered in rubber and minor abrasions, and the windshield has several starburst in it. I do not regret the cost of the PPF install after really looking things over. Highly recommend if you have a frozen/matte GTS and plan on tracking it extensively.

edit: still running the mismatched color 18x11 EC-7. Have another 4 on order, Apex has been backlogged real bad. I don't particularly care about the color, I just need more wheels to have more rubber available.
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      04-08-2021, 10:24 PM   #137
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Got out to High Plains Raceway for a season opener test and tune with my dad. It was us and 4 Porsche race cars on a 2.55 mile course, and they didn't even start running until 11am. It was rather nice to leisurely do some sight-in laps, coming to complete stops at various corners and just showing him the track at 15mph before turning him loose. We covered 200 miles, I drove ~20 of those showing him lines, he drove the rest. Let an old friend drive a few laps as well but he immediately got motion sick and didn't really get to experience the car

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I took photos only when we were loading up at the end of the day. The GTS performed flawlessly. With MDM it saved us several times with him coming in 5-15mph too hot and panic braking mid-corner. Kept the car out of the dirt and didn't mess up the test and tune for the actual race cars. Towards the end he knew which corner was which, so we'll take out the 135i next so he can practice in the car he'll be driving moving forward.

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The X5 didn't do so well. Blew the IAT sensor out of the charge pipe while climbing a slight hill. I probably have close to 20k miles towing(60k total) with this thing, that charge pipe has seen peak boost for 30+ minutes sustained several times climbing with the trailer. The irony is I fixed this on the 135i, but I never thought the X5 would blow up. Zip-tied the sensor back in place and drove back at 50mph. I'm sure the engine ingested some dust but whatever, it's a N55, it'll survive.

Track season is back!
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      04-16-2021, 09:35 PM   #138
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Sorted

Just got back from NCM. The car is finally sorted to my style of driving.

- 19 x 10 (or 18 x 10) square setup
- AP brakes
- Front control arms with spherical bearings
- Millway camber plates
- rear upper control arms - Millway
- rear adjustable sway bar links - Millway
- replace rear eccentrics with adjustment blocks
- Euro MDM
- track alignment

Fast predictable and very fun. Car does not eat tires or brake pads, just gas and distilled water.: lol:
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      04-16-2021, 10:10 PM   #139
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Camber plates/alignment was such a huge improvement in the track behavior of this car. I'm on the fence on going full SPL rear arms/sphericals with the front monoball. We'll see how I feel in June-July.
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      04-17-2021, 09:34 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Camber plates/alignment was such a huge improvement in the track behavior of this car. I'm on the fence on going full SPL rear arms/sphericals with the front monoball. We'll see how I feel in June-July.
Sphericals are da bomb. Super stable braking from 100+. The full rear completed the transformation by dialing back the oversteer. Worth it. Let me know if you have questions.
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      04-18-2021, 07:23 AM   #141
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Originally Posted by rcompound View Post
The full rear completed the transformation by dialing back the oversteer. Worth it. Let me know if you have questions.
Specifically, this set of mods to reduce oversteer?

- rear upper control arms - Millway
- rear adjustable sway bar links - Millway
- replace rear eccentrics with adjustment blocks

Product links, more info, alignment specs, pics, whatever you can offer would be appreciated.
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      04-18-2021, 03:28 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Specifically, this set of mods to reduce oversteer?

- rear upper control arms - Millway
- rear adjustable sway bar links - Millway
- replace rear eccentrics with adjustment blocks

Product links, more info, alignment specs, pics, whatever you can offer would be appreciated.
The discovery process came in 3 steps.

1. Fall-Line lowered the suspension, replaced the front control arm with spherical bearing, adjusted the shocks, replaced the eccentrics and rear toe link. Car was better but fully capable of oversteer in all wrong places. I tried several different alignments but still not acceptable.

2. Replaced the fixed rear sway bar links with adjustable sway bar links and adjusted while on ground to zero tension. Big improvement as the car was clearly over - barred in the rear.

3. Final step removed the Ground Control camber plates and replaced with Millway. Big improvement in noise control and the Millway piece is much sturdier. Truly engineered for a M4 GTS (Thanks Samuel). I also replaced the upper rear control arms with Millway. Again a much sturdier piece than the other US sourced pieces. The adjustable rear upper control arms allow more rear camber which is noticeable in the high speed sweepers and tight 180 degree corners. Finally I went back to a trusted alignment setup that was given to me by Master Engineer Bob K. from TireRack, an excellent driver with empirical based alignment settings.

I have tons of track miles in E30 M3, E36 LTW, Porsche 991.1 4S, 991.2 GTS and other cars. All of the aforementioned cars are high HP, low torque cars with manual transmissions. The M4 GTS with the automatic is a high HP, high torque car that drive more like a Corvette or Mustang given the torquey nature of the car in a corner. Keeping the power down in the corners was difficult before steps 2 & 3.

Alignment Camber 3 degrees F & R
Total front toe 0.50mm
Total rear toe 6 mm

Did I miss anything?
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      04-19-2021, 07:05 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcompound View Post
The discovery process came in 3 steps.

1. Fall-Line lowered the suspension, replaced the front control arm with spherical bearing, adjusted the shocks, replaced the eccentrics and rear toe link. Car was better but fully capable of oversteer in all wrong places. I tried several different alignments but still not acceptable.

2. Replaced the fixed rear sway bar links with adjustable sway bar links and adjusted while on ground to zero tension. Big improvement as the car was clearly over - barred in the rear.

3. Final step removed the Ground Control camber plates and replaced with Millway. Big improvement in noise control and the Millway piece is much sturdier. Truly engineered for a M4 GTS (Thanks Samuel). I also replaced the upper rear control arms with Millway. Again a much sturdier piece than the other US sourced pieces. The adjustable rear upper control arms allow more rear camber which is noticeable in the high speed sweepers and tight 180 degree corners. Finally I went back to a trusted alignment setup that was given to me by Master Engineer Bob K. from TireRack, an excellent driver with empirical based alignment settings.

I have tons of track miles in E30 M3, E36 LTW, Porsche 991.1 4S, 991.2 GTS and other cars. All of the aforementioned cars are high HP, low torque cars with manual transmissions. The M4 GTS with the automatic is a high HP, high torque car that drive more like a Corvette or Mustang given the torquey nature of the car in a corner. Keeping the power down in the corners was difficult before steps 2 & 3.

Alignment Camber 3 degrees F & R
Total front toe 0.50mm
Total rear toe 6 mm

Did I miss anything?
Thanks. What are your front and rear ride heights relative to the blocking rings?
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      04-19-2021, 08:35 AM   #144
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Thanks. What are your front and rear ride heights relative to the blocking rings?
I don't have the blocking ring heights as the height was set to ride height, clearance from the ground to the lowest part of the car.
Front 138 mm
Rear 155 mm
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      05-29-2021, 10:44 AM   #145
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Since this is basically my bimmerpost blog at this point, here's a lowly N55 powered vehicle. It's basically a M4 GTS though, since they use the same wing element out back.

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It took a bit with several canceled plans, but the car arrived on Friday. The car was out at Thermal Club in Rearden Racing's possession, Rearden shipped it out to me and did a great job working through all the complications that arose.

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I'll clean up a lot of the sponsor/Pirelli labels, and maybe wrap it in a new livery this fall/winter. For now the goal is to just get it out to the track and start working through NASA GTS qualification.

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Hello old toy, meet the new toy. I'm guessing this is going to mean I won't be taking the M4 to the track much anymore.

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My son cannot reach the pedals yet, but he really enjoyed playing with the wheel and the bright red radio button.

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Better indicator of how short his legs are. Maybe in a few years he'll fit.

I'm looking forward to learning more about this car, and running it through a NASA GTS3 season for 2022. For now I need to replace belts/nets + recert the fire suppression system, double check bearings + pads/rotors, and sort out wheels/tires. I'm real curious if my 18x11s will fit, the 18x10.5 has a ton of clearance with the overly wide fenders.
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      05-29-2021, 04:01 PM   #146
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Amazing pick up. How much do these go for now used? They were 60k Euro excl. VAT in Germany when new, which seems like a hell of a deal.
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      05-29-2021, 05:24 PM   #147
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Race car! Sweet! congrats!
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      05-30-2021, 10:37 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swagon View Post
Amazing pick up. How much do these go for now used? They were 60k Euro excl. VAT in Germany when new, which seems like a hell of a deal.
I paid $79,000 USD for it. I think MSRP was around $85,000 back in 2016? I didn't want to do another E46M3 like everyone else, and when I priced a low mileage M235i build, I was getting into the $50,000-$60,000 range very quickly.

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Race car! Sweet! congrats!
Thanks. I'm very excited for GTS3, I miss racing.

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i really like this car
Thanks!
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