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View Poll Results: What brake option will you order? | |||
M Carbon Ceramic | 68 | 37.78% | |
OEM steel rotors | 112 | 62.22% | |
Voters: 180. You may not vote on this poll |
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12-05-2013, 10:10 PM | #67 |
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I would love a set on a street car to let people know I had the $$$ to spend the equivalent of a used car on brakes
For a car I plan to track.. steel rotors all the way Last edited by nicknaz; 12-05-2013 at 10:21 PM.. |
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12-06-2013, 01:19 AM | #68 |
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SGL provides carbon fiber. Carbon ceramic (Carbon-Silicon Carbide, CSiC) is an entirely different sort of material.
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12-06-2013, 01:24 AM | #69 | |
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On a side note: I estimate the weight savings of the M4 CSiC brake system to be about 40 lb (saving is over 50 lb on the M5). This is equivalent to losing twice as much non-rotating weight or ~80 lb. That in turn is probably equivalent to about 10 hp. Probably not quite enough to be felt but definitely a significant weight savings.
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12-06-2013, 10:28 AM | #70 |
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We're making a lot of assumptions about the price without looking at the scale. This is the first mass market application in an affordable car lots of people buy. The supplier could easily see an order for 100,000+ rotors over 5 years (6-8 per car inclusive of new cars and replacement disks). The economics could change a lot.
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12-06-2013, 10:31 AM | #71 | |
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12-06-2013, 11:05 AM | #73 | |
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Last edited by CanAutM3; 12-06-2013 at 01:28 PM.. |
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12-06-2013, 12:37 PM | #74 |
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Awesome video. I hope they automate more of that or it is going to cost $9000.
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12-06-2013, 12:49 PM | #75 |
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The alternative here is something like the StopTech Trophy kit for $4400 plus pads. You'd only need to do the fronts. Pads for about $360.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-16...FcQ9QgodLwsAcQ
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12-06-2013, 01:46 PM | #76 | |
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Why wouldn't the stock iron discs with better pads do the job? Last edited by CanAutM3; 12-06-2013 at 03:22 PM.. |
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12-06-2013, 02:07 PM | #77 |
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Lots of reasons. The pads are smaller. The disc is smaller in both diameter and thickness. The OEM disk is drilled so when the pad is touching it's not grabbing as much.
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12-06-2013, 02:19 PM | #78 |
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All this does not tell me that the stock irons will not do the job...
Last edited by CanAutM3; 12-06-2013 at 03:22 PM.. |
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12-06-2013, 02:56 PM | #79 |
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The two OEM and the third aftermarket option I mention will do all do the job. The service life is what varies. You'd warp the smallest rotors first and overheat them the soonest.
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12-06-2013, 03:19 PM | #80 | |
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IMO, the pads are the weakest link in the braking system, not the rotors. With the proper pads, the stock rotors should be sufficient for most tracks. For me, the biggest benefit of the CCBs is the weight reduction, not gains in braking performance. Another variable is if better callipers and/or bigger brakes are part of the CCB package. While it is true we don't yet know the cost (cost of option as new + cost of replacement parts) of the CCB on the F8X, the cost per mile will most likely be greater on the CCB. We still need to figure out by how much. (PS: I edited my previous posts. I mentioned steel rotors by error when I meant iron rotors) Last edited by CanAutM3; 12-06-2013 at 03:24 PM.. |
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12-06-2013, 05:00 PM | #81 |
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My numbers above are too generous. In fact the twice factor comes only from assuming that the rotating mass is basically all in a thin annular ring at a given radius. That approximation is much better met by a tire than by a wheel or a brake disc. For a disc brake assuming a solid disk is obviously a better approximation. In such a case losing a pound of unsprung mass is equivalent to 1.5 lbs of sprung mass. You can verify this by simply writing out the translational and rotational energies for a block with four spinning discs. Depending on how disc like or how annual like the wheels are one arrives at different ratios. Of course a constant power argument is needed as well...
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12-06-2013, 06:40 PM | #82 |
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12-06-2013, 07:25 PM | #83 |
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Yeah I suppose "warp" is a misnomer. I really mean "when the rotor makes it so you can't drive the car any more". That can be a number of things. In my experience it has been a pad that wears to the backing and scores the rotor.
Carbon is going to take the longest sustained abuse at high temp. With any ferric rotor you're borrowing time when you run it on a track, and wearing away microns which add up to millimeters which mean you're out of spec and need a new disc.
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12-06-2013, 10:18 PM | #84 | |
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My experience so far is that it is disc cracking that is causing me to replace the rotors (not light surface cracks, those are normal; but deep cracks than run from a cross drill hole to the outer diameter of the disc). You should pay closer attention to your pads as they wear if you end-up scoring your discs with the pad backing plate... My ///M is at 90 000km (56k miles) and is closing in on 100 track days. I am on my third set of front rotors and still running the original rears (albeit I will need a new set in the spring). The OEM fronts are costing me $800 a pair. So I am at $1600 spent so far. A far cry of $5000+ for the CCB option and not even considering replacements... |
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12-08-2013, 01:19 PM | #85 | |
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Just keep careful track of the rotor thickness. i bought a nice dial caliper and measured my rotor thickness very often. once they are worn half-way they go very quickly. at that point i suggest switching to a steel rotor and shelving the ceramics. put them back on when you sell it. gt3's with ceramics on used market sell for same as steel braked cars given all other factors. maybe in an M3 that will be different though. but interesting to note.
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12-08-2013, 01:34 PM | #86 | |
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12-08-2013, 01:39 PM | #87 | |
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http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=821498
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12-08-2013, 01:44 PM | #88 |
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i miss 5 lugs on the porsche too. thinking of switching to those if i keep the car longer. the center locks are a travesty. i'm glad bmw didn't copy that yet...
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