DIY PSU Build for Flashing

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by terahertz

...
I don't remember how many ECUs, but it was probably like 15 or so. ESYS gave an estimated time and it was 32 minutes. I'd say that was roughly accurate. I didn't time it.

Programming over ethernet is much faster than the older gen K+DCAN.

Ok my PSUs are in today, so out shopping for parts and then build and flash, probably the next few days
Since your car is a 2016, its likely that you had fewer ECUs to update. On my Jun 2015 (55.0, F020-11-05-503) M4, there is 23ECUs that needs to be update putting aside Kombi that I did it sometime ago.

Do you still have your SVT_Tal.xml file? I'd just want to confirm if your ZGW (FEM_*) were flashed, I am worried about these ones... so i am considering either a partial flash (DME, DSC, ICM) so not risk it too much and not to loose all my codings. Thanks.

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Ok my PSUs are in today, so out shopping for parts and then build and flash, probably the next few days
Since your car is a 2016, its likely that you had fewer ECUs to update. On my Jun 2015 (55.0, F020-11-05-503) M4, there is 23ECUs that needs to be update putting aside Kombi that I did it sometime ago.

Do you still have your SVT_Tal.xml file? I'd just want to confirm if your ZGW (FEM_*) were flashed, I am worried about these ones... so i am considering either a partial flash (DME, DSC, ICM) so not risk it too much and not to loose all my codings. Thanks.

My ZGW was not flashed. In order to avoid issues with the ZGW, you need to connect via the IP, not via VIN. Or that's what I read anyways. I did mine via IP even though ZGW was not being flashed because I didn't necessarily know ZGW wasn't going to be flashed until I calculated the TAL.

You can probably save off your CAFD files, VO code the module, save off the new VO coded CAFD, then use NCDCAFDTool to diff your new CAFD and old CAFD to see what you had changed. Then you know what to code again.

I'll send you the TAL by PM after work today.

Good luck with the build!

[aboulfad]

Connection via VIN Is the more reliable, I somehow had a feeling your ZGW wasn't flashed, I'll check with @thisisdave too. Thanks, I have my coding saved and in my own cheat sheets but I may be leaning to flashing just those three modules unless someone reports other improvements in other ECUs, flash the least ECUs, golden advice from the Master himself

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Connection via VIN Is the more reliable, I somehow had a feeling your ZGW wasn't flashed, I'll check with @thisisdave too. Thanks, I have my coding saved and in my own cheat sheets but I may be leaning to flashing just those three modules unless someone reports other improvements in other ECUs, flash the least ECUs, golden advice from the Master himself

If the ZGW is going to be flashed, you cannot connect via VIN. When the ZGW goes into flashing mode, ESYS will not be able to connect by VIN.

Is your car DCT? I like the DCT update a lot. It would probably be good to flash GHAS as well.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by terahertz

If the ZGW is going to be flashed, you cannot connect via VIN. When the ZGW goes into flashing mode, ESYS will not be able to connect by VIN.

Is your car DCT? I like the DCT update a lot. It would probably be good to flash GHAS as well.

I read the same threads as you, and it's inconclusive, it seems to have to do with ENET vs ICOM I/F... So there for me is a big showstopper as most ZGW threads are a nightmare, at least on F10... but I'll check with the "Master"

Yes, my car is a DCT, now you are really trying hard to get me into trouble so what is it you notice different?

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

I read the same threads as you, and it's inconclusive, it seems to have to do with ENET vs ICOM I/F... So there for me is a big showstopper as most ZGW threads are a nightmare, at least on F10... but I'll check with the "Master"

Yes, my car is a DCT, now you are really trying hard to get me into trouble so what is it you notice different?

It's a bit smoother and handles itself better around town in auto mode. Especially taking off from a stop. Also, when it's cold, it's not nearly as lurchy. And it doesn't do that thing where you're coming up to a stop and it engages 2nd gear with too little revs and you get thrown forward.

Part of that may be the DME tuning, but I'm not sure. I noticed the sport+ became more progressive near the cruising point, and doesn't feel too sensitive like i thought before. And you get a new startup rev.

You might as well just update the whole car together since you're building a PSU and everything The F10 flashing guide i used seems to flash the ZGW by connecting via IP.

[aboulfad]

Thanks for all your comments! but now you see why i hesitate because information is contradictory all over when it comes to ZGW (FEM_*). you guys lucked out

I am also building the PSU as its fun and i haven't done that since my adolescent days being an electronics hobbyist but i also ordered a Volts/Amps digital meter too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231684637404...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT but it will take one month to get here!!!

[Chayse]

Originally Posted by terahertz

It's a bit smoother and handles itself better around town in auto mode. Especially taking off from a stop. Also, when it's cold, it's not nearly as lurchy. And it doesn't do that thing where you're coming up to a stop and it engages 2nd gear with too little revs and you get thrown forward.

Part of that may be the DME tuning, but I'm not sure. I noticed the sport+ became more progressive near the cruising point, and doesn't feel too sensitive like i thought before. And you get a new startup rev.

You might as well just update the whole car together since you're building a PSU and everything The F10 flashing guide i used seems to flash the ZGW by connecting via IP.

I have the DCT too and I absolutely hate that 2nd gear issue. It is almost like you stabbed the brakes really hard at that point. I notice it does not do it as hard if you are in manual mode and just slow down. Maybe I can just have the dealer update my whole car for this issue? But what fun would that be, right?

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by Chayse

I have the DCT too and I absolutely hate that 2nd gear issue. It is almost like you stabbed the brakes really hard at that point. I notice it does not do it as hard if you are in manual mode and just slow down. Maybe I can just have the dealer update my whole car for this issue? But what fun would that be, right?

If your dealer is nice! Mine wouldn't unless I could reproduce it with the shop foreman in the car, and of course it doesn't happen when I try.

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Thanks for all your comments! but now you see why i hesitate because information is contradictory all over when it comes to ZGW (FEM_*). you guys lucked out

I am also building the PSU as its fun and i haven't done that since my adolescent days being an electronics hobbyist but i also ordered a Volts/Amps digital meter too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231684637404...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT but it will take one month to get here!!!

Wow. Fancy! Let me know how that goes. I might add one just out of curiosity to see how many amps it draws.

[aboulfad]

after I ordered it, i realized we have a local electronics store that sells something similar. If you order it, make sure you get the shunt amps that matches your PSU. I got an 100Amps shunt. it wont be super precise, but it will give an idea.

[stealth70mde]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Thanks for all your comments! but now you see why i hesitate because information is contradictory all over when it comes to ZGW (FEM_*). you guys lucked out

Well I will most probably meet with aboulfad this coming Friday. Since my car was built on week 14th 2016, I most probably have 58.2 in it. He will be able to see and experience 1st hand if the changes are like everyone says.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by stealth70mde

Well I will most probably meet with aboulfad this coming Friday. Since my car was built on week 14th 2016, I most probably have 58.2 in it. He will be able to see and experience 1st hand if the changes are like everyone says.

you are most likely to be on 58.2, but I will only experience the changes if I drive your car I take back my comment, it seems some people are reporting older software version towards end of 16Q1. But surely you would have seen your I-step when you coded your car?

[firedown31]

Originally Posted by terahertz

And it doesn't do that thing where you're coming up to a stop and it engages 2nd gear with too little revs and you get thrown forward.

No way, that's fixed now?

[jwzimm]

Any chance someone would like to contract with some of us members who are either too busy or wary to take on this type of a build ourselves?

[su_root]

What's a quick way to tell what the current version on the ECUs is? I have a roughly 12th week 2016 F82

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by su_root

What's a quick way to tell what the current version on the ECUs is? I have a roughly 12th week 2016 F82

Read this and this.

[aboulfad]

terahertz , I ordered 4 PSU, look what I got instead, a Mac Pro nah 4 PSUs wrapped in that box that gave me ideas now. Let the modding begin

[aboulfad]

@terahertz , did you isolate DC ground on both PSUs, given we are hooking them in parallel, wouldn't it make sense. Ok I just did, no harm in doing it.

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

@terahertz , did you isolate DC ground on both PSUs, given we are hooking them in parallel, wouldn't it make sense. Ok I just did, no harm in doing it.

Yes, I did it on both PSU. I was reading you should only do 1 if you are doing it series. I could be wrong, as I'm not an electrician, but from my internet research I decided to do both.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by terahertz

Yes, I did it on both PSU. I was reading you should only do 1 if you are doing it series. I could be wrong, as I'm not an electrician, but from my internet research I decided to do both.

Ok cool! I just finished with my bro soldering and wiring, set the output to 13.7V, now it's been connected to the car. It's been now 20mn that I have it connected, and the voltage dropped slightly from 13.45 to 13.41 under load, ignition on, fan on, radio, lights, ... If I switch off most of the stuff but keep ignition on, voltage goes back 13.45!

So not sure what's going on, the PSU is meant to maintain constant voltage... Ok just unplugged the PSU and am monitoring voltage under load, and it's dropping to 13.3V, so PSU seems to maintain a steady voltage but varying under load, weird... Here's a pic with Anderson connector.

[terahertz]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Ok cool! I just finished with my bro soldering and wiring, set the output to 13.7V, now it's been connected to the car. It's been now 20mn that I have it connected, and the voltage dropped slightly from 13.45 to 13.41 under load, ignition on, fan on, radio, lights, ... If I switch off most of the stuff but keep ignition on, voltage goes back 13.45!

So not sure what's going on, the PSU is meant to maintain constant voltage... Ok just unplugged the PSU and am monitoring voltage under load, and it's dropping to 13.3V, so PSU seems to maintain a steady voltage but varying under load, weird... Here's a pic with Anderson connector.

Interesting. I'm not sure either, but it seems that you're still very safe voltage wise. Mine was set at 13.5v and was 13.30v with the car on.

As far as maintaining voltage, I think it will drop slightly because of load and resistance through the wires and connectors. Pin 9 for the 12v sense is usually used so the PSU can adjust to the 12v dropping from variable load and it will increase the voltage automatically. We are hijacking that to make it raise the voltage to 13.5, so it doesn't have that same automatic voltage adjustment anymore. Either way, as long as your voltage stays steady in the 13-14v range, you should be good to go.